tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4203582241308516712024-02-07T20:33:16.398+10:00Dell, Peter & Pacific ExpressDell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comBlogger164125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-75429585673214019852015-10-06T10:47:00.005+10:002015-10-06T10:47:42.126+10:00WEEK 8 : Magnetic Island to CairnsSat 26 Sept - Magnetic Island to Orpheous<br />
We took Rosie ashore then left at 7am. We motorsailed in rough seas. Rosie put her head down and went to sleep. It wasnt a bad day and the weather was good. Went past Palm Island and the seas started to get a bit better then the fishing line took off. The line kept going out and the skipper couldnt hold it so I turned the boat and pulled in the sail and he played it for quite some time. He got it close to the boat and it was a pretty big fish! We were hoping to get it up for a photo and to retrieve the lure (favourite) then let it go as it was too big. But it went under the boat and snapped the line (50lb breaking strain) and it got away. Unfortunately (for the fish) it still had the lure but it was gone. Skipper left with sore arms. We both agree that it was a very big fish but the skipper's arms are longer than mine!!! Had a lovely motor sail up past Orpheus. Passed a yank boat at Yankee Jetty! Passed the resort where cousin Philip had done some work and came round into Little Orpheous Bay at the same time as another yacht. We could see a mooring buoy so gunned it and so did he but he got there first! Then we spied another buoy on the other side which he had already gone past. So we picked that one up and are in a perfect spot. He obviously didnt like the first buoy as he ended up anchoring. It was low tide and they do look really close to the reef but that is why they are there. It is really calm in here and now we just have to wait for high tide to get to the beach over the rocks and reef.<br />
Miles: 39 TTT : 749<br />
<br />
Sun 27 Sept - Orpheous - Goold Island<br />
Took Rosie ashore and she did her coffee table run. We met a fellow ashore who was crew on a large motor cruiser which also had a game fishing boat travelling with it. He told us that they take 21,000 litres - 1,000 litres a day!! and then we dropped the mooring and had a good sail over towards Zoe Bay on Hinchinbrook Island. Once again it was too swelly to go in. We hope to get in there one day! The skipper hooked another huge fish here and the same thing happened - another lure gone! We then just slowly motor sailed up Hinchinbrook and around the top and continued on to Goold Island. It was low tide (springs) so we anchored in 2.4m (1m water under the keel). There was a lovely long sandspit with a lovely beach and very tropical looking. It was a bit far away so we took note of where the rocks were on the little closer beaches (and looked for crocodile slides!) and when the tide came in we took Rosie ashore to a lovely little beach with rocks each end of it. Explored for a little while then the midgies came out so we returned to the boat. It was the full moon so it was bright as day. Had a very comfortable night.<br />
Miles : 36 TTT : 785<br />
<br />
Mon 28 Sept - Goold - Mourilyan Harbour<br />
We decided to go to the long beach with the lovely sandspit as we thought it would be nice to walk along it. It was 1 - 1 1/2 km away. We read the signs when we got in and it said crocodiles are in these waters (which we knew) but then it said - do not swim, stay away from waters edge, be excessively careful launching boats and do not camp too close to the water with a big Achtung on it. Why do they always think the Germans may be the foolhardy ones! Anyway there is a campsite there with bbq, water tank, picnic tables etc and as it was at the end of the point with water both sides of it - one side being near mangroves we wondered who on earth would stay there and why!!! Anyway it curtailed our walk along the beach and we came back to the boat - exercising great caution where we launched Bob. We had discovered yesterday that our mainsail had inexplicably torn in two places. It had no pressure on it yesterday so we have no idea why. The skipper patched it this morning, then we had a shower at the back of the boat and left for an easy day - motoring. No wind, water almost oily. We are wanting to get out to the reef and today might have been good but the wind is due to come up a bit tonight. We motor sailed towards Kent Island, one of our favourites. We could see a big warship ahead with helicopters and landing craft. It was HMS Canberra and as we got closer they called us up (must have amazing binoculars) and told us we must stay 1,000 yards away. So we changed course. Saw a helicopter land on the deck and two landing craft go into the back of the ship and two more come out. Incredibly interesting. We came round Kent Island and it was too swelly to anchor. And also a batch of canoists had landed and were obviously going to spend the night. We kept going and went into Mourilyan Harbour which is a small gap on the mainland which opens into a large harbour (big enough to turn a ship in). This is where all the sugar trucks bring the sugar to be shipped out. The ship in there was out of Hong Kong. We had to anchor behind the turning point and it really was quite shallow. We took Rosie to the jetty - another crocodile warning sign. At slack tide around 9pm the tug pulled the ship away from the dock and the ship motored out - amazing to see. I could just imagine a first time captain coming in to the harbour say - you want me to go where! Heaps of mosquitoes. Had the net on the front hatch but not the second one so by the time we closed it we had heaps of mossies. Think we got most of them with tea towels!<br />
Miles : 36 TTT : 821<br />
<br />
Tues 29 - Mourilyan - Russell Island<br />
We had a grand sail for a while today. Left at 7 but then had to motor sail then just motor to Russel Island. Arrived at 11.45 and picked up a mooring buoy which was for a 10 m boat and there is a huge bommy quite close.. The other two buoys were taken. We went ashore and then took the bathoscope in to look at the reef. It is really good. Saw a giant clam and it was so pretty with irridescent spots of emerald green around it. Beautiful. Thought about snorkeling but the skipper wasnt keen so I made do with the bathoscope. We found out later that a boy had been bitten by a shark here yesterday! The tide went out and a lot of the reef was exposed. It is a beautiful part of the world. We went ashore again in the afternoon and walked around the island. On the other side there was a channel with hundreds of sea slugs (black ones). Never seen so many. Then we sat on the beach and had sundowners. A really lovely stay. <br />
Miles: 24 TTT : 845<br />
<br />
Wed 30 - Russel Island - Cairns<br />
Through the night the wind came up from the South West which turned us quite close to the bommy out the back!!! Who would have thought. Anyway took Rosie ashore and left early and motor sailed to Cairns as we knew the wind was going to blow up strong. We dropped the anchor up Trinity Inlet just in front of Braveheart and across from Little Blue (who used to have Single Malt). We managed to find a public boat ramp a bit further up another inlet where we could take Rosie ashore. We all met on Little Blue for sundowners and it was lovely to catch up after all this time.<br />
Miles : 36 TTT: 881<br />
<br />
Thurs 1 Oct - Cairns<br />
Went to the boat ramp and had a bit of a walk around and then took the tender up as far as the Yacht Club and then came back to the boat. The wind was starting to blow up. We took Rosie ashore and got soaked and then had sundowners on Braveheart. Little Blue didnt come across as it was too rough.<br />
<br />
Fri 2 Oct - Cairns<br />
Well we are truly stuck here now as the winds have set in for the next week. We took Rosie in this morning and had a bit of a walk but could not get her ashore in the evening as it was too rough.<br />
Stuck in Cairns!!!Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-52037067839798157022015-09-26T16:16:00.001+10:002015-09-26T16:16:19.170+10:00WEEK 7 : May's Bay to Magnetic IslandSat 19 Sept - Mays Bay - Cape Gloucester<br />
We left at 6.45am and motor sailed trough the Gloucester Passage round past Montes resort and anchored at 12.15. We walked along the lovely long beach to Montes resort and couldnt believe the number of people there. Lunch was booked out!! It seemed little bit more upmarket than when we were last here. It has been well and truly discovered and lots of people drive up from Airlie. We checked out the Cape Gloucester resort next door. It used to be the Eco Lodge and was quite upmarket but now it has a nice easy going feel to it. We walked along the beach a couple of times and had a quiet night. Could hear the band from the wedding at the resort.<br />
Miles: 32 TTT: 662<br />
<br />
Sun 20 Sept - Cape Gloucester<br />
We moved on to a red mooring buoy which it turned out are owned by the Resort and are $25 a night but if you have a meal there its free. We had the loveliest lunch and then entertainment from 1 til 4 which was really good and such a lovely setting. Met a few of the crews from other boats. Rosie came too and nobody minded. In fact there were a few small dogs in there. This was the day we decided to go to Cairns! We felt we had just been floating around the Whitsundays filling in time - now our sails have a purpose!!!<br />
<br />
Mon 21 Sept - Gloucester - Grey's Bay, Bowen<br />
Left at 8 and motor sailed past Bowen and around into Gray's Bay which is really pretty. The skipper went off to get some fresh fruit and veg while I sat ashore with Rosie. I got so engrossed in my book that Bob almost floated away. I had to keep pulling him up as the tide came in. It was such a lovely calm morning. The skipper came back in a taxi and I spent the afternoon washing and stowing all our stores. There were a couple of wriggling little red worms came out of the bock choy when I washed it - yuk. Wind came up after we got back to the boat and blew fairly strongly. Comfortable night though. This bay is such a pretty bay with big boulders all round and people use it. There were people and children swimming in the morning and afternoon. The boulders are great for climbing or sunbaking on and there are some lovely walks. Really worth a visit and high on a rock overlooking the bay someone has painted a big stick figure like the Salisbury horse in England!<br />
Miles 13 TTT: 675<br />
<br />
Tues 22 Sept - Gray's Bay - Cape Upstart. <br />
We took Rosie ashore and departed at 650. It was a beautiful day with calm seas and we motorsailed all the way to Cape Upstart. Just before we we got to Abbott Point we saw the flippers of a huge whale about 100m away. Huge flippers waving at us. Just before we got in the skipper caught a huge yellow fin tuna so he was really happy. He assured me it is the best eating tuna you can get. A couple of the boats we had met at Cape Gloucester were there and another one came in after us. We took Rosie ashore and explored a couple of beaches and then again in the afternoon.<br />
Miles: 35 TTT : 710<br />
<br />
Wed 23 Sept - Cape Upstart - Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island<br />
We took Rosie ashore and motor sailed in flat seas beautiful conditions. We left at 6.30 and had intended to stop at Cape Bowling Green as we have never stopped there before. But we got there around 12 and we knew the seas would be up tomorrow and it was such a lovely day we kept going. We anchored at Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island at 5.15pm. There were around 40 boats in there. We threw the tender in and raced Rosie ashore, much to her relief!! A lovely evening.<br />
<br />
Thurs 24 Sept - Magnetic Island<br />
We went in early and had a walk. Nothing much had changed from the last time we were there. Rosie loved the smells and people and dogs. Then it was washing day on Pacific Express and bath day for Rosie. The skipper did a few trips ashore to replenish the water jerries and then we walked the foreshore. It is really busy here with school holidays - water sports, jetskis etc. Sat on the deck chairs on the deck in the evening but had a pretty rolly night with the swell coming into the bay.<br />
<br />
Fri 25 Sept - Magnetic Island<br />
Walked through the busy area and then walked the deserted beach. I went right to the end while the skipper and Rosie waited half way. We disturbed an eagle about 10 ft way from us killing its fish. Quite a sizeable fish and it had huge talons. It had a big nest a bit further down the beach and I could hear the chicks. While Rosie and the skipper were waiting the horses and riders went past twice and Rosie thought that was pretty interesting. As we walked back the riders had changed into their swimmers and all the horses went into the water and walked along in the sea up to their shoulders then they all faced the shore then turned and walked back again - quite an amazing sight! We had another rolly night so decided to leave tomorrow.<br />
<br />
Cheers all. Sorry its so boring but there really is not much happening!!!<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-52814351758104332972015-09-22T15:16:00.001+10:002015-09-22T15:16:19.167+10:00WEEK 6 : Cid Harbour to May's BaySat 12 Sept - Cid Harbour<br />
We thought about moving but its still blowing and raining so we stayed put. Sundowners with Gill and Al on Sasu.<br />
<br />
Sun 13 Sept - Cid Harbour - Nara Inlet<br />
We left Cid at 8.00 and sailed to Nara Inlet in sloppy seas. Anchored at 10.45 at high tide. This is a fjord like inlet on Hook Island so we took Bob and motored all around the shore line - it was very pretty. We then went ashore and walked up to a cave with Aboriginal paintings. After that we found a tiny bit of beach around the corner where we could take Rosie ashore. A good anchorage and there were heaps of boats in there but most didnt come down as far as we were.<br />
Miles : 9 TTT : 586<br />
<br />
Mon 14 Sept - Nara Inlet - Stonehaven<br />
Left Nara at 9.30 and had a lovely little sail to Stonehaven - all still on Hook Island. We tied up to a mooring buoy on the north side of the bay and there was a litle beach there we could get to. We took the bathoscope and had a look at the coral. It was surprisingly good though in places a little sandy/muddy looking. Saw a giant clam. Didnt think they had them here and also lots of antler coral. Sasu came for sundowners.<br />
Miles : 10 TTT : 596<br />
<br />
Tues 15 Sept - Stonehaven<br />
Well the wind absolutely howled last night. The boat was steady on the mooring but the noise of the wind was horrible so we left our mooring and headed out to Langord Island but conditions were not nice so we returned and took up another mooring. We decided to go to the south side of Stonehaven where there were two moorings in amongst the reef so when we saw then become available we headed over. Unfortunately a cat had come around the corner with the same intention so we gunned the motor and went for it and so did he! We beat him by about 30 seconds and we got the inner mooring and he got the outer one. We were greeted by the most beautiful turtle who came over to say hullo and swam around the boat and around and under Bob and came right up to us at the back of the boat as if he wanted to come aboard. He stayed for quite some time and allowed us to pat him on the back. So gorgeous. I actually donned the wet suit and went for a quick snorkel but the coral wasnt as good as the other side and yes I did keep looking behind me despite the fact that the skipper and Rosie were in the tender right beside me! There was a lovely little beach to take Rosie so we went in there a couple of times and the view from the other side of the rocks was lovely. Sasu came over to tell us they were heading to Airlie as Gill had to go home for a few days. What a difference a day makes. The weather was beautiful. A lovely calm night. A magic spot!<br />
Miles : 4 TTT : 590<br />
<br />
Wed 16 Sept - Stonehaven - Maureen's Cove<br />
We left at 8am and as we motored past Langford Island which was a place we really wanted to go a mooring buoy suddenly became available but there were three large tourist boats there and people everywhere so we kept going. They even had the tourists snorkeling using noodles like in Asia! Another cat did an about turn and raced in to take it when we didnt. We thought later that the tour boats probably moved on to other places and we should have grabbed it but it will keep for another day! We motored around Hayman Island and got a mooring at Maureen's Cove. One of the mooring buoys had a red do not moor buoy on it and what we didnt know but soon found out was it was the Marine Parks boats mooring buoy! We looked at the coral through the bathoscope but werent encouraged to get in though we saw some lovely parrot fish. Took Bob around to Butterfly Bay and took Rosie ashore. Thought about moving round to there but thought if we gave up our mooring we might miss out on the other one. A small barge came in and picked up a couple of campers from the beach and dropped off another couple of campers and late in the afternoon the Marine Parks guys came back in and went ashore for the night. So Rosie didnt get off the boat!<br />
Miles : 10 TTT : 600<br />
<br />
Thurs 17 Sept - Maureen's - Whitehaven Beach<br />
We motored to Whitehaven beach round Hook Island. Saw one place we would like to go back to named Peter Bay - looked interesting. It is forecast north west tonight so we are hoping the west part of it comes in or it could be a rolly night. On the way here we saw two dolphins - they are very small dolphins here and they had two little babies - they were only about 18 inches long -they were so cute. Have never seen anything like that before! Anchored off the beach. It is so lovely here - such a white beach. We went ashore for a swim. The water was really warm and so clear. It is really busy up the southern end though and there are two helicopters and three seaplanes coming and going. Very busy but we are further north and not much around - so lovely.<br />
<br />
We have midgy bites on our midgy bites!!! Would love some calamine lotion. Skipper turned to brown vinegar. Apparently vinegar and brow paper can fix anything! <br />
Miles: 16 TTT : 616<br />
<br />
<br />
Fri 18 Sept - Whitehaven - May's Bay<br />
It wasnt a rough night but somewhat disturbed. We think Rosie thought the boat was going along and kept looking up in the cockpit to see if we were there. We had a bit of banging and clashing with things we should have tightened (did in the middle of the night!) and didnt sleep terribly well. We went ashore and then sailed round the corner to a quiet peaceful little bay out of the wind. We took Bob and did the outline of the shore and on to another little beach. Midgies were terrible but it was a lovely peaceful night.<br />
Miles : 14 TTT : 630<br />
<br />
PS we have decided to go to Cairns!!<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-49487219208159610442015-09-15T09:22:00.005+10:002015-09-15T09:22:50.673+10:00WEEK 5 - Mackay Marina to WhitsundaysFri 4 Sept - Mackay Marina<br />
The wind was still blowing so stayed another day and looked at a catamaran for sale in the afternoon.<br />
<br />
Sat 5 Sept - Mackay - Newrys<br />
We came out of our berth beautifully and headed around to get fuel. Left at 9.05am and then had to wait ten minutes for two tugs to bring a big ship in. It was a lovely day and we arrived at the Newrys at 2.15 and anchored with four other boats. There is a lovely sand beach with coconut palms on Newry Island. From around the 1930s to 1970s there was a resort here. National Parks took it over in the early 2000s. There are the remains of the beachcomber Bar and a few of the huts.<br />
Miles : 27 TTT: 517<br />
<br />
Sun 6 Sept - Newrys<br />
Went ashore about 8.30 and did the 2.8km circuit walk around the island. The skipper fished while I made him some muffins for fathers day. A lovely day.<br />
<br />
Mon 7 Sept - Newrys - Goldsmith<br />
Started out heading for Brampton Island but it got really uncomfortable so we decided to head for Goldsmith Island which is one of our favourites. We had been seeing a few butterflies flying past but as we got closer to the island there were more. When we went ashore and walked to the end of the beach it was like walking through a field of butterflies. There were thousands - really amazing. Four other boats came in and anchored near us. A calm night.<br />
Miles: 21 TTT: 538<br />
<br />
Tues 8 Sept - Goldsmith - Lindeman<br />
We left around 8am and had a lovely motor sail up the side of Shaw Island. The skipper caught a tuna just before we came around Shaw so he was happy. Especially since shortly before he had something big on the line but I forgot to stop the boat! It got off - probably just as well if it was that big! We came around Little Lindeman and anchored near Lindeman Island. We took Bob and visited a couple of the beaches. Another lovely comfortable evening.<br />
Miles: 22 TTT: 560<br />
<br />
Wed 9 Aug - Lindeman - Cid Harbour<br />
We left at 9am - could see whales in the distance. Had a lovely sail between Dent and Hamilton Islands with just the headsail up. It was pretty breezy. We sailed around Cid Island and came into a flotilla of boats all anchored in Cid Harbour. There were about 74 boats by the evening. Sasu came for sundowners.<br />
<br />
Thur 10 Aug - Cid Harbour<br />
We met Sasu and Sea Fever on the beach and took the long climb up 443 metres to the top of Whitsunday Island. The last third of it is quite exhausting but the views from the top are amazing. Some other people arrived at the top while we were still there so we all had a bit of a chat. We got back down (hard on the knees!) and sat on the beach for a while. Then it being low tide everyone helped get all the tenders back in the water Trim, our friend's Bruce and Anne's boat finally came in so we had a catch up with Bruce and his friend Ian. Unfortunately Anne had had to fly home already. Had a lovely evening.<br />
<br />
Fri 11 Sept - Cid Harbour<br />
We took Rosie in to the beach then went to have a look at Trim - a Seawind 1160 catamaran - a truly beautiful boat. We came back for breakfast then Water Music showed up so we spent the morning chatting to them. It is still blowing like mad.Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-70218734925587747002015-09-04T17:06:00.000+10:002015-09-04T17:06:05.912+10:00WEEK 4 : Great Keppel Island to Mackay Marina<br />
Fri 28 Aug - Great Keppel Island to Pearl Bay<br />
We took Rosie into the beach, said farewell to Sasu and headed out round Great Keppel at 6.20am - good sailing after 2pm and arrived at Pearl Bay at 3.35pm. A big 91ft motor boat (looked a bit like an icebreaker) passed us and they headed into Pearl. It was low tide and I was a bit worried there would not be enough room. We went down to .9 under the keel so that was good We went ashore and walked along the beach and Rosie had a run.<br />
Total Miles : 51 TTT : 365<br />
<br />
Sat 29 Aug - Pearl Bay<br />
Decided to stay another day. Just relaxing walked along beach, reading etc. Met some people off the big boat. There were five couples who left Melbourne in April and are just making their way up the coast. What a great way to travel.<br />
<br />
Sun 30 Aug - Pearl Bay - Hunter Island<br />
We left in the dark at 4.30am to catch the current to Hunter Island. It was great. At one stage we had the motor off, headsail out in about 6 knots of wind and were doing 9.6 knots! That current was fair hiking! Just as we were coming into Hunter Island we saw a whale. We had to push some current past Marble Island and at one point we were down to 1.9 knots on 2,000 revs. Then we saw something on the surface of the water and we were both convinced it was a huge croc so we went over to take a closer look and all of a sudden two huge humps appeared heading for the boat. Whales - quick run!!! We made it up to Hunter Island and anchored at 12 noon. There is a 7 metre tide here so we had to anchor a long way out. We dropped in 8 metres on a dropping tide and went down to 2.6 metres at low. Took Rosie ashore and walked the beach. These islands which are part of the Duke Group used to be a cattle station and obviously there is still at least one cow there as there were cow prints on the beach! In the afternoon when we went ashore the tide had dropped so much we had to walk a few hundred metres over rubbly corrally rock to get to the beach. Walked to the end where the cattle run had been built. It was really interesting. We saw a huge spanish mackerel leap out of the water so I decided to try my hand at some fishing. I came very close to hooking the skipper then it all came to an end when I somehow broke the rod in two! We watched the most amazing sunset and saw green after it went down though we couldnt say it was a flash. But we did see lots of red flashes which was something we hadnt seen before. And then we watched the most amazing full moon come up shining a bridge across the water to the boat. Beautiful. This has been the most picturesque, idyllic little spot. So lovely.<br />
Miles: 46 TTT : 411<br />
<br />
Mon 31 Aug - Hunter Island to Curlew Island<br />
We took Rosie ashore and had to walk the crazy rubbly walk again and then had a most exhilirating time. While we managed to ride the current to here, we had not considered it getting out of here. We left at 7am and came round the corner of the island into a narrow channel between Hunter and Marble and there were whirlpools and waves and mishmash of water. At one stage we were only doing 1.3 knots. Very picturesque though. It took us an hour to do two miles. We came out into a sloppy sea. Couldnt keep the sail out so it was a motor job today. Hint - do not put brampston pickle on your cheese and biccies when you are on a rolly boat! Saw a few whales today including a baby breaching. Came through another channel into Curlew Isand and shot out the other end and anchored at 1.45pm. The skipper worked out the tide range here is 6.5 metres so went around a bit till we found 6 metres and anchored there. We went down to 2.1 metres - .7 under the keel! One poor boat misjudged it and ended up on the ground and had to wait til dark and a high tide to get out. We shone the torch in the evening and all the long tom fish leapt out of the water. A really funny sight.<br />
Miles: 35 TTT : 446<br />
<br />
Tues 1 Sept - Curlew Island - Mackay Marina<br />
Left Curlew at 7.45am and saw a whale and its calf about 50 metres away and the baby was breaching - so lovely. Arrived Mackay Marina at 3.30pm. We had a heavy landing in a very tight berth!! Lovely shower and hamburgers for dinner!<br />
Miles : 44 TTT: 490<br />
<br />
Wed / Thurs 2/3 Sept - Mackay Marina<br />
We hired a car and did our resupply of fresh food and filled the water tank. Drove out to the end of the breakwater - its one heck of a wall. There is a 6.5 metre tide here so at low tide it is quite a climb to get up the ramp from the marina to the shore. Finally got some southerly winds but too strong and Rosie having an off day so stayed another day. Another boat headed south but is now back with a broken window (waves) and wet bedding Winds will drop a little tomorrow so we will try to get out then. Rosie much better by the way.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-52594995934455646912015-08-27T15:30:00.003+10:002015-08-27T15:30:03.755+10:00WEEK 3 - Pancake Creek to Great Keppel IslandSat 22 Aug - Great Keppel Island<br />
We took Rosie ashore in the semi darkness at 5.45am. The other two boats left - we made the dash to the beach and back almost at low tide then stowed Bob and the outboard. Then the skipper freaked me out saying the others looked to be going very slowly and queried if it was deep enough. Anyway needless stress, there was plenty of water and we were out heading for Cape Capricorn - seas not great but not too bad. We put the main up and motor sailed in building seas. By the time we got to Cape Capricorn it was obvious it would be untenanble in the NE winds. The other two boats kept going and so did we. Seas 2 - 3 metres, rainy and the crew a little seedy. Rosie fine sleeping in her bed on the cockpit floor. We were heading around the corner of the island and then saw the cat head for a beach so we went there too and anchored at 5pm - another torrid eleven hour day. We took Rosie ashore and she really wanted to run but we just wanted to fall in a heap. Got wet getting Bob back out. Was a litle bit rolly but not too bad. Fell into bed wondering what the heck we are doing! Rained most of the night.<br />
Miles: 68 TTT : 314<br />
<br />
Sunday 23 - Great Keppel Island<br />
Went for a walk along the very long beach called Long Beach (!) and walked over the headland to where the other boat anchored ni Monkey Bay. We went back and bought the boat around there too. Anchored in sight of the resort and can see Roslyn Bay across the way. There is a reef and its really quite nice. Quite a few boats in. Took the bathoscope and checked out the reef.<br />
<br />
Monday 24 - Great Keppel Island<br />
Took Bob around to the resort area. The colour of the water is beautiful. Had a walk around the big main resort which is still closed and fenced off. Saw the cyclone affected beach and a couple of cyclone affected houses. A tree snake was sunning itself near the boardwalk. Rosie gave us a scare today. She was walking through really soft sand and all of a sudden her hip just gave way and she couldnt walk. Carried her for a while then she seemed to come good. When we got back to the boat she seemed to be worrying her foot so I held her while the skipper cut out a huge burr. She screamed so loud the next boat thought we were murdering her! Had a late walk along the beach and she was fine.<br />
<br />
Tuesday 25 - Great Keppel Island<br />
A NW wind was forecast so we moved back around to Long Beach and walked to the end of the beach. Quite a few boats have come around and there were lots or people walking up and down the beach. Such a lovely beach, the water such a lovely colour and the sand so white. Rosie was exhausted after chasing her ball and socialising. Our internet hadnt been working well then Al off Sasu told us my smart phone could run the internet on the computer which was news to us but by jove he was right! We went in the late aternoon and met up with a few other boats for sundowners. There is a family of five on the biggest cat - it is huge. They took their kids out of school for a term so they can do this. We had a lovely evening and the kids built a fire so we sat around the fire.<br />
<br />
Wednesday 26 - Great Keppel Island<br />
Rosie had a terrible night vomiting and shivering and shaking. We thought we might lose her. She wouldnt drink so we went ashore with our chairs and her cushion for a few hours so she could have some off boat time. She slept for ages and then started to come good. We think she must have eaten something on the beach last night. It takes 35 minutes to walk from one end of Long Beach to the other - very pleasant. By the time we got back to the boat Rosie was fine. Glen off Seasalt (another Ganley) visited in the afternoon and then it was time for sundowners on the beach! Another lovely evening and a feed of garfish for dinner. There are 16 boats in and only two of them are cats which is unusual.<br />
<br />
Thurday 27 - Great Keppel Island<br />
Bit of a clean up then we went ashore to walk the 2km to the resort. Rosie went into her specially made backpack and was perfectly happy perched up there. It was a good walk. A few people took photos of Rosie in her backpack. We walked back a different way and then had a swim - it was a bit brisk! Tomorrow we are going o head up towards Pearl Bay. There's not any good winds forecast but it is time to move on. This has been an absolutely beautiful spot.<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-17470766203409659762015-08-23T13:27:00.000+10:002015-08-23T13:27:03.626+10:00WEEK 2 : Bundaberg to Pancake CreekSun 16 Aug - Bundaberg - Pancake Creek<br />
We left at 5am in the dark but it is easy to get out of Bundaberg beause it is lit up like a runway. Motor sailed and when the sun came up put the mainsail up and had a great sail til about lunch time when the wind dropped out and then came strongly from behind. The seas built up to 2 - 3 metres and it got very rough. We came past 1770 and thats where we should have cut in to the coast but we stayed out to go around the big rocks and it was truly horrible. Took the main down - we should have left that till we got in but didnt! Anyway we finally got in at 4pm at high tide and took Rosie over to the sandspit. She was very relieved!<br />
Miles : 64 TTT : 245<br />
<br />
Mon 17 Aug - Pancake Creek<br />
Took Rosie ashore and met a man who was camped on the beach and had been here for two weeks. He had rowed around from 1770 - took him 5 1/2 hours. He told us of the reef and where to catch fish and oysters. Didnt find the oysters! Had a walk along the sandspit in the afternoon. It is all under water at high tide and at low tide is completely exposed The skipper did some fishing and caught a small flathead and threw it back. Just on sunset he took Bob in a bit and caught two good bream so we had fish for dinner with the fresh bread he had baked today. There are about ten boats in here.<br />
<br />
Tues 18 Aug - Pancake Creek<br />
Went ashore and walked around the sand and rocks which Rosie really enjoyed. Then we went out and had a look at the reef. It was fairly clear and we also had the bathescope to look through. Then did some trolling out around the point. Took the parasol for Rosie!! Had a bit of a boat cleanup. Sasu visited for sundowners. Boats left and five stayed.<br />
<br />
Wed 19 Aug - Pancake Creek<br />
Took Rosie for her walk and it was very windy and forecast to get windier so we decided to move further into Pancake Creek. It is a narrow channel between the sandbanks. We followed the red and green buoys and the lead lines in and found a good spot to anchor. There are two trimerans which we thought Phil would have been iterested in. One had a carbon fibre sail with two men on each. Took a couple of walks along the beach then Rosie and I sat under the parasol on the shore while the skipper fished - tiddlers only! A lovely day.<br />
Miles : 1.6 TTT 246<br />
<br />
Thurs 20 Aug - Pancake Creek<br />
Very windy. Had a couple of walks on the beach and a play on the sandspit. Rosie is very well. We have stopped giving her her medication and she has stopped yelping when we touch her. In fact, she gets passd between us quite a lot and doesnt mind at all. Loves going in the tender and has been running on the beach. Have set the saloon up so she can walk from our bed to the two saloon chairs and can jump down into her bed. She sleeps a lot when we get back but she is so much better than she was at home.<br />
<br />
A couple of boats came in from out the front as it was very windy. Then the last one, a cat came in and promptly hit a sandbank and reversed off and nearly hit another yacht. Hit the sandbank on the other side and then almost ran over a trimeran. He came up beside the tri so the tri skipper jumped on board the cat and ran to the helm and motored it off. We can only think the cat skipper was inside trying to helm from there. The tri skipper tried to get all the seaweed off the anchor but ended up dipping the anchor and driving forward. Then he anchored the cat in a good spot and the cat skipper took the tri skipper back to his boat. It looked a pretty new cat!<br />
<br />
Fri 21 Aug - Pancake Creek<br />
Had the obligatory walk along the beach. Then it started raining and is overcast. Listened to the weather on the HF radio and tomorrow looks like being a reasonable day so we will get out of here on the high tide and move further out ready for an early start in the morning to try to reach Keppel Island. The cat skipper left his morning, the only boat to do so. Hope he had a good trip.<br />
<br />
Currently at Great Keppell - more on that next week - internet connection is nor good - think its our dongle!<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-31902857602111289372015-08-15T17:36:00.002+10:002015-08-15T17:36:57.364+10:00WEEK 1 : Bribie to BundabergWEEK 1 : Bribie to Bundaberg<br />
Sat 8 Aug : Bribie - Mooloolaba<br />
We left our new mooring buoy at Bribie Island at 6.40am. Motor sailed and arrived Mooloolaba at 12.45pm. There were a few shallow spots but we continued on down the river and finally found a place to anchor amongst a lot of other boats. We went ashore and walked down to the sea front. The place was buzzing and so busy. Rosie enjoyed seeing all the people. We went ashore again later in the evening and I took Rosie for a walk while the skipper got some tasty fish and chips. We put Bob and the outboard on board and had an early night. A very pleasant day.<br />
Miles: 32<br />
<br />
Sun 9 Aug : Mooloolaba - Inskip Point<br />
We departed in the dark at 4.35am wending our way through unlit boats with the skiper at the front with a torch and the crew at the helm yelling I cant see! When we got into the river proper the crew went forward with the torch while the skipper took us out. It was really cold and I didnt take my beanie off til 2pm! Overcast, lumpy, sloppy seas - uncomfortable long day. Saw some whales further out breaching and some tail slaps then a whale about 50 metres away. Then one came up about 10 feet in front of us and swam in front of the boat. We had to take a sharp turn to port to avoid it! Saw some more breaching whales as we came round Double Island Point heading for the Wide Bay Bar We had the co-ordinants for the crossing but noticed on the chartplotter that other boats had gone further north. When we got to that point there was breaking surf where we were supposed to go so the skipper also took us about 200 metres north and then it was what they call the mad mile. A mile which goes on the inside of the surf breaking on a sandbar - much rocking from side to side! We were very happy to anchor at Inskip Point at 3.45pm.<br />
Miles : 62 Total This Trip : 94 miles<br />
<br />
Mon 10 Aug - Inskip Point<br />
We went ashore and Rosie just ran and ran like the joyous little dog she was when she was young. It was so lovely to watch. We then walked long the sand flats where she kept her eye open for fish to catch. But we had to carry her back! Her enrfgy was spent! It was a lovely day - still a chill wind but sun shining and a lovely spot. Very different to how we felt the last time we were here trying to get home! We went ashore again in the afternoon and had an early night. A strong wind warning has been issued for Wednesday so we will have to move.<br />
<br />
Tues 11 Aug - Inskip Point - Gary's Anchorage<br />
We left Inskip at 6.30am in a pea soup fog. Couldnt see a thing. The beanies came out again! We followed our track from our previous trip and motored against the current to Gary's Achorage. It was a falling tide but the lowest we went down to on the way in was about 1.3 metres under the keel so all good. There were quite a few other boats in so we anchored in the middle of the channel. We went ashore and met a few other boat crews, one of whom also had a small friend like Rosie. We walked along the shore. Such a lovely day. Interesting to see a few people have little friends. In the afternoon it came up very windy and with wind agains tide boats were going every which way. A couple had to reanchor and a couple left to find a better spot. We are now tucked away here awaiting the big blow. Hopefully it wll be strong enough to keep us all facing the same way.<br />
Miles : 13 TTT : 107<br />
<br />
Wed 12 Aug - Gary's Anchorage<br />
It was like a millpond this morning so we took Rosie ashore. The strong wind warning is still current for tonight. Wind came up around 10am and blew quite strongly. Had a reading day. We took Rosie ashore and got soaked on the way back. Lightning all around us in the evening an then it rained. Very blowy but ok. A good night.<br />
<br />
Thurs 13 Aug - Gary's Anchorage<br />
Still a strong wind warning but like a millpond. We went with Sasu to Water Music (a most beautiful Catelina 44) for morning tea and good company. Saw a dingo on the beach where we have been taking Rosie in so took her further up below the cliffs. No wind at all. Quiet night, very cold.<br />
<br />
Fri 14 Aug - Garys Anchorage - Kingfisher Resort<br />
Took Rosie ashore at 6.30am and we left at 7am and followed our track out. Came through the Great Sandy Straits and our previous track (on the chart plotter) was very useful. Came through the shallowest spot at full tide and continued down past the resort and anchored. A dugong dived in front of the boat and we had heaps of large turtles surfacing. Took Rosie ashore and played ball till we wore her out. Back to the boat and sat on the deck reading in the sunshine. Such a beautiful day. The dugong surfaced and we saw its head and whole body - amazing! Another boat took their friend ashore and then we could hear a dingo howling. They came back to their boat an we saw the (vey well fed looking) dingo walk along the beach to where they had been and it just lay there howling for a bit. It is very cold when the sun goes down and we can still hear the dingo howling.<br />
Miles : 21 TTT : 128<br />
<br />
Sat 15 Aug - Kingfisher Resort - Bundaberg<br />
It was very cold when we left at 6.30am thinking we would have enough wind to blow us to Bundaberg but it dropped out after a couple of hours and it was a motor job after that. However, a beautiful day and flat seas. The sea was sparkling on the water like thousands of little diamonds. We have discovered that we have lost all our tracks for our travels further north from here so will have to make new tracks!!! by the way, no fish yet!!! Arrived Bundaberg Burnett River at 4pm and took a desperate Rosie ashore Currently sitting peacefully in the river as the sun goes down.<br />
Miles: 53 TTT : 181<br />
<br />
To follow us check out www.skipr.net and look for boat Pacific Express<br />
<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-78398359950868895842015-07-29T17:22:00.000+10:002015-07-29T17:22:35.941+10:00Almost readyWell it is finally starting to come together. We were supposed to leave on 11 July to head north up the Queensland coast. Things transpired against us but at last things are starting to come together. We are currently on the hard at Scarborough antifouling. On Saturday we will have our mooring buoy put in at Bongaree on Bribie Island and on Monday the rigger is finally coming to start to redo our rigging. All this means that we may be able to finally set sail in a northerly direction next weekend!!! Yaaaaay!Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-87865531436418525572013-05-20T11:10:00.001+10:002013-05-20T11:10:06.694+10:00Home and back again!!??Well we have been home for six months now and its great - we really love it BUT..... we may take Pacific Express back to Langkawi in a couple of years and cruise Thailand again!!! Anyone interested???!!!! We miss the warmth (although I know I complained bitterly about the heat) and the roti telur with curry for breakfast and the fantastic fruit. The fruit here just isn't as tasty as the wonderful fruit up there. If we can do six months on the boat and six months at home life would be perfect!!!! And our family and friends could come to visit!!! How wonderful!!<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Dell and PeterDell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-87678293218823642282012-12-10T08:22:00.000+10:002012-12-10T08:22:51.118+10:00LWH – Week 22 Home is the sailorOne thing I forgot to mention last week when we were at Scawfell we could hear the helicopter pilots talking to the cargo ships waiting to go into Abbot Point. They fly out to drop the ship pilots off and one we heard was late at night blowing 21 knots, very dark and he asked the ship to speed up so he could land – some very precise flying !<br />
<br />
Sat 1 Dec – Fraser Island<br />
25⁰23.029S / 153⁰01.729E<br />
We should be putting our Christmas tree up today! We left at 4.40am at low tide again. There was a yacht anchored outside having a very rolly time and we passed them coming in as we were going out. Its not the easiest of places to get in and out of. Passed the Bustard Head lighthouse at 5.25am with the sun quite high in the sky. The sea was rather lumpy and not all that nice. The skipper was remembering when he and Amy went fishing up there. Well it was very swelly and uncomfortable and then it was just swelly. We arrived at Bundaberg at 3pm and having ascertained that we can in fact get diesel at Kingisher Bay we decided to go through. The seas had calmed and it was pleasant enough. However, on dark the winds came up and the seas came up and we were getting slewed around sideways as the waves hit our aft – not pleasant. The moon came up at 8pm and it was a relief to see the leads to the channel into Fraser. We hit 8 knots at one point. We could see boats anchored and went round then anchored further north and further out. We dropped the anchor at 11.20pm.<br />
Miles: 112: TTT: 4,074<br />
<br />
Sun 2 Dec – Kingfisher Bay<br />
We went ashore at high tide and walked to the petrol station and got some diesel. The skipper found a trolly and took three jerries back while the crew waited with the other two. A very nice man came in and offered to take the other two for us. He was driving what looked like a glorified golf buggy turned into a covered ute. He said he had got really excited when they had told him he was getting his very own work ute! I walked back as he only had the one seat and then he kindly took the trolly back for us. The skipper put the fuel in then we went into the day area of the resort and had a hot shower (after I had a cold one then realised there was hot!) and lunch along with all the other daytrippers who were using the pool there. In the afternoon our decision to come through last night was vindicated when a northerly came through and it got very rough. It was only when the wind stretched us right back on our anchor chain towards the beach that we realised we were only 5 – 10 metres from the sandbank! Its called perfect anchoring!! All the other yachts anchored left and we were left on our own again. The skipper reckoned it would drop off in the evening and sure enough it did and we had a lovely calm night.<br />
<br />
Mon 3 Dec – Garry’s Anchorage<br />
25⁰37.790S / 152⁰58.390E<br />
We upanchored just after 8 to make our way through the shallows of The Great Sandy Straits on a rising tide. We came though the shallow bit following the red and green buoys. One of the green ones had been moved since our last journey through. We followed a big American yacht through part of it with another yacht behind. Both of us then passed the American yacht and I think he was happy enough to follow us through. The lowest we got to was 1.4m under the keel. We pulled into Garry’s Anchorage at 12 noon. The other two boats kept going. There were two other yachts anchored there. It came up very windy in the afternoon and was windy all through the night. Usually it drops off at night. Its amazing at low tide to see how close the sandbars are.<br />
Miles: 21 TTT: 4,095<br />
<br />
Tues 4 Dec – Garry’s Anchorage<br />
Well the wind howled all day and this is a very protected little spot but we had whitecaps on the water. It was gusting 30 knots so we were hunkered down in here. It was a hard day for the crew though as we could see boats flying past in the main channel and could hear them on the radio going out and heading south. It kind of makes you wonder if we are wooses but really we thought they were nuts and must have had a fast but thoroughly uncomfortable trip down. The SE change is supposed to come through this evening. But meanwhile the northerly is still howling and apparently Brisbane has a heatwave heading towards 40⁰.<br />
Wed 5 Dec – Inskip Point<br />
25⁰48.835S / 153⁰02.472E<br />
The wind dropped out entirely at 2.30am and the mosquitos and sandflies started coming in so we had a chemical spray – both the boat and us and went back to bed. 6am and it was so still, not a breath of wind and the water like glass and a mist hanging over everything and the constant buzz of cicadas. It was absolutely beautiful. After yesterday, unbelievable! Visibility would probably be 100m – couldn’t see the next marker buoy. And wherever we go there always seems to be one lonely koll (bird) calling for his mate. So still - where is the SE change. We need it to go through and pass so we can go south. We left on a rising tide at 10am and motored down to Inskip Point. We vaguely thought of continuing but were a bit late to cross the bar. We anchored at 1.10pm in 3.7m and had a good night.<br />
Miles: 13 TTT: 4,108<br />
Thurs 6 Dec – Inskip Point<br />
It was calm in the morning and the SE change came through around lunch time as predicted and the wind was very strong. We just had a boat day. One boat went over the bar at 9am on a low tide but they couldn’t have checked the weather because we heard them on the radio calling up VMR for a weather report saying they were bashing into a southerly. Couldnt have been too nice out there – we just stayed hunkered down and a few more boats came in.<br />
Fri 7 Dec – Inskip Point<br />
One of the boats left at 2am and two cats went out at 4.30am and 5am. A whole stack of jelly fish went past under the boat – the majority of them white clear but some with a rim of dark blue – very pretty. We had intended to leave at 11am but the weather came up and it was forecast 1.2 – 1.7m seas on top of a 1.5 – 2m swell which was kind of big so we decided to wait till tomorrow. A thoroughly frustrating afternoon.<br />
Sat 8 Dec – Home is the Sailor home from sea<br />
The skipper ran the motor earlier in the morning to put some charge in the batteries and all of a sudden the water exhaust exit wasn’t working so well. Turned out to be a heap of jellyfish parts in the skimmer box filter Its so hard to wait and by the time we left at 11.30am the crew had herself in quite a stress about crossing the Wide Bay Bar. As it turned out it was lumpy but ok. The lowest we went down to was 3.4m under the keel. We saw a light brown coloured shark beside the boat as we went out It was quite swelly at first and then it settled a bit. We notice by the weather forecast that we have just snuck through another small weather window and it will start blowing up again Sunday night. How lucky have we been really. Well we came through the night and it was really swelly and the skipper did some cargo ship dodging off Mooloolaba and we came into Newport marina at 5.30am. There were a few people to take our lines and Pacific Express is now tied up in the marina in our home port. <br />
Miles: 97 TTT: 4,205<br />
Since the 10th of July when we left Miri till we arrived this morning we have done around 4,205miles and the round trip from the end of April till today is 17,400 miles. We want to really thank you all for travelling with us and we hope the trip has been as enjoyable for you as it has been for us. If anyone has any questions or would like to see our wonderful Pacific Express please email us. Also I have to say I had a really great skipper. Someone (Brian) asked me once if anything happened to the skipper would I be able to bring the boat home alone and I very glibly said of course. But if it had been up to me she would have sunk, been drifting around out in the ocean or run ashore on the Wessels! <br />
Anyway hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy New Year and all the very best to you.<br />
We dared and we did it<br />
Fair Winds and Calm Seas<br />
Dell and Peter signing off<br />
<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-477736236679763292012-12-02T16:53:00.003+10:002012-12-02T16:53:30.221+10:00LWH – Week 21 –Cape Upstart – Pancake CkSat 24 Nov – Airlie Beach<br />
20⁰15.031S / 148⁰45.006E<br />
Left at the civilised hour of 5am in daylight! It was blowing quite hard as we came round the Cape. So rugged. Rocky cliffs straight into the ocean. The sea was a dark colour and it was overcast and a bit swelly. But as the day went on the sea settled and turned a lovely blue then went to green as we rounded Gloucester Island. Then we turned off the motor and had a lovely sail all the way down to Airlie Beach. It looked a lovely little town all built up the side of a mountain but so many boats. We could see lots of mooring buoys and it all looked so busy we opted to go next door to Funnel Bay and anchored there around 5.45pm. It was swelly at first but it settled through the night and we had a very comfortable sleep.<br />
Miles: 69 TTT: 3,667 <br />
<br />
Sun 25 Nov – Scawfell Island<br />
20⁰51.616S / 149⁰35.958E<br />
It was lovely to hear all the birds chirping as we upanchored at 5.30am – a sleep in! We came round into the passage between The Molle Islands and the mainland. The sea was choppy as it was wind against tide but the current was with us so it was all good. The Whitsunday Islands are scrubby tree covered hills with the odd pine trees with beaches dotted here and there. They are not all white sandy beaches with palm trees – not tropical islands. Whitehaven Beach is a beautiful exception with the whitest sand beach you will see. Though some of the resorts have planted lots of palm trees, notably Daydream Island. But the Whitsundays is a pretty place and a great cruising ground. You can anchor off a beach and be on our own or anchor with heaps of other boats in the more popular anchorages. We came between the islands doing up to 7.5kn with the current. The water was turbulent. A sunsail charter boat played chicken with us this morning and then veered behind us at the last minute. He thought it was a huge joke. We were less than impressed. The wind came up and we were pushing in to it and were pleased when we came into Refuge Bay on Scawfell Island. There were six boats already in there. There was a bit of swell coming round and it was very windy. Its a very pretty bay and a turtle surfaced right beside us to welcome us!<br />
Miles: 65 TTT: 3,732nm<br />
<br />
Mon 26 Nov – Scawfell<br />
20⁰51.826S / 149⁰35.971E<br />
The wind was supposed to be blowing up today so we decided to stay. We then realised how much we needed a break! All the cats left and the other mono moved in closer and so did we so it is much calmer. There is reef here and it is a 4 metre tide. We watched as the people of one cat used their dinghy (obviously a bigger motor than ours) to tow someone on a water ski. Then they left towing the skier behind their cat till he fell in and then they picked him up and left. The skipper made some bread and the crew finished her book (The Quiet Game – Greg Iles – an excellent read). Cant get over how beautiful the colour of the water is. Before we moved we had the biggest bat fish out the back of the boat. We went ashore in the afternoon and had the beach to ourselves and walked the length of it. There are picnic tables, water tank and loo ashore and camping is allowed. As it turned out the weather looked perfect out there but we do need the rest. There are only the two boats in the entire bay and it is beautiful – so picturesque. The skipper got something huge on his fishing line and he played it for a while but then it bit him off.<br />
<br />
Tues 27 Nov – Scawfell<br />
It poured rain in the middle of the night so we got up to put the cockpit sides on and got soaked and just as we got them secure it stopped raining! We awoke to have the whole bay to ourselves. The other boat had gone. Parks & Wildlife came in in a boat and whippersnipped around the camp tables (wonder how many people actually camp to warrant the care). We took Bob around to the other beach and could see the tracks where turtles had gone ashore to lay their eggs – we counted 17 nests. Then a turtle came out of the water about 50 metres in front of us and started going up the beach. We though wow but then she saw us and turned around and went back into the water. We checked out the coral but it seemed to be dead. There was no colour there anyway and we didn’t see too many fish – we weren’t snorkelling, jut looking through the bathoscope. It is so beautiful in this bay. The water is a gorgeous colour. Four dolphins came in close to the boat and swam around. Wonderful to have time out. We hadn’t realised how tired we were. Another beautiful day. <br />
<br />
Wed 28 Nov – night sail<br />
We left at 6am and decided to come around the outside of the island to get a better angle of the wind instead of the lee of the island. Always do the latter!! We found ourselves in huge waves as we came around the point – it was like being in a storm without the storm! Lasted over half an hour till we got away from the influence of the island then it settled but there was still a big swell out there. We hadn’t been looking forward to this section of the journey as there are strong currents and big tides courtesy of Shoalwater Bay and Broad Sound where they have tides of up to 8 metres and thats a lot of water to move in and out during the tides. We got to the Percy Islands around 6pm and decided to go through the night. We really wanted this one out of the way. It was pretty rough with wind against tide for a while. At one stage the skipper had to go 25⁰ off course to keep us on course – the current was pushing us. But we had the biggest full moon and we could see everything which was great. We both had to put our jumpers on. We are finding it a big cool (Axel and Elisabeth will think thats pretty funny!)<br />
<br />
Thurs 29 Nov – Cape Capricorn<br />
23⁰29.077S / 151⁰13.835E<br />
Its a lovely sunny day as we continue down the coast but there is a big swell out here. We keep trying to get south to get the lighter northerly winds but the further south we go the further south the light northerlies seem to go! Passing the Kepple Islands the seas have settled and its quite pleasant. Lotsa coral spawn in the water – streaks of baby poo yellow! Anchored off lovely Cape Capricorn at 4.30pm. We anchored right in the little bay and had a bit of swell coming round the Cape but we were held stern to it so that was ok but a bigger yacht anchored a bit further out and rolled all over the place and he disappeared a bit later in the evening. We had quite a good night.<br />
Miles: 186 TTT: 3,918<br />
<br />
Fri 30 Nov – Pancake Creek<br />
24⁰00.556S / 151⁰44.242E<br />
We left at 5.30am and motor sailed in the sunshine on calm seas. We could see on the AIS that there were around 53 boats in Gladstone Harbour and 27 anchored outside. Thats an amazing number of boats. Had a pleasant run down to Pancake Creek. The wind was starting to get a little stronger when we pulled in and anchored off the little beach at 2pm. We didn’t go all the way in as we want an early start in the morning. Its very calm here and we can see the waves breaking on the sandbar out the front. It was interesting to see the sandbar at low tide as we gave it a nudge and had to reverse off last time we were in here. Well we saw Pancake Creek at spring lows and could see all the sand spits and rocks and then the tide comes in and it all looks so innocent! A big catamaran came in in the dark and anchored behind us. A lovely calm night.<br />
Miles: 44 TTT: 3,962<br />
<br />
Well we are going like the clappers to try to get home but at this point in time we are anchored off the Kingfisher Resort at Fraser Island in strong winds which look like blowing for a good part of the week so instead of being home on Wednesday (!) we will be hunkered down here till this weather blows itself out. Disappointing but there you have it and the Great Sandy Straits is probably a good place to get stuck.<br />
<br />
Miss you all – cant wait.<br />
<br />
Love<br />
Dell and Peter<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-7472632271756284462012-11-24T19:41:00.000+10:002012-11-24T19:41:09.002+10:00LWH – Week 20 –Cairns – Cape UpstartSun – 18 – Cairns<br />
16⁰55.025S / 145⁰47.176E<br />
We passed Cape Tribulation in the morning. It was quite warm already and humid. Very pretty – rainforest mountains to the sea. It was a beautiful day with perfect conditions and we dropped anchor opposite the Cairns marina at 6pm. A really good run down. The anchored boats were all over the place and facing all sorts of different directions with the wind and the current. In the evening they settled and we had a good night.<br />
Miles: 211 TTT: 3,366<br />
<br />
Mon 19 Nov – Cairns marina<br />
Berth G 23<br />
We had booked in to get fuel at 9am so upanchored and proceeded to the fuel dock where we took on 311 litres at $1.46 a litre. We then headed to our berth and by this time it was getting quite breezy. The skipper had the boat in reverse as we came into the arm as we were getting blown forward and sideways and he brought her in beautifully. We said hullo to Jasmin who we had last seen rounding the Cape. We managed to do our shopping, laundry and booze run and then went out to dinner. We had noticed that Cairns had lots of tourists and in the evening was buzzing. It was Monday night and we had a half hour wait at the restaurant. Found out later that there had been 15,000 people at the Eclipse party and thats why the town was full. Cairns is a very pretty town with large swimming pools on the shore of the bay and the marina right in the middle of town within walking distance of everything. I was coming back from the shower at 10pm and there was a couple at the security gate to the our dock and it turned out to be Casper – they had left their dinghy on the dock and couldnt get back in as the gates are locked at 6pm. Had a quick catchup and they headed off across the river to their anchorage Also caught up with Suspense earlier in the evening. We last saw them in Miri. They are settled in with their kids all now in school.<br />
<br />
Tues 20 Nov – Fitzroy Island<br />
Mooring – 16⁰55.949S / 145⁰59.112E<br />
We packed all our shopping away and left around 9am. Bach & Byte and Mandolin Wind had anchored out at 2am after a marathon 69 hour run down from the Cape. We went by Bach & Byte and said hullo. We had a slow motor sail over to Fitzroy and managed to pick up a mooring quite close to the rocky shore. We spent the afternoon doing chores. Snorkled in the water to clear some molluscs off the bottom of the boat but it was very murky so didn’t stay in long. The water is a very pretty colour and the island very green though its beach is corally rubble – not sand. A comfortable night<br />
Miles: 17 TTT: 3,383<br />
<br />
Wed 21 Nov – Dunk Island<br />
19⁰06.776S / 146D51.549E<br />
We dropped the mooring at 5am and motor sailed through the day with lovely weather and calm sea and anchored at 3pm off the sandy spit at Dunk Island. They are rebuilding the jetty there and the resort seemed closed. Its possible they have not recovered from the cyclone of a few years ago. The skipper worked on the loo – pulled it out and put it in again three times – I was surprised it did not go overboard! The language was rather blue. By 9pm it was working better than it ever has so its all good! We were supposed to go for drinks to Mandolin Wind but the loo took precendence!<br />
Miles: 63 TTT: 3,446<br />
<br />
Thurs 22 Nov – Horseshoe Bay Magnetic Island<br />
19⁰06.776S / 146⁰51.548E<br />
We upanchored just before 4am in the dark and motor sailed along with Bach & Byte and Mandolin Wind. The seas were not as calm as yesterday but not too bad. We had great wind to start with but as we got closer to the Palm Islands it dropped out a bit. Lots of coral spawn in the water. The wind came up in the afternoon but the seas were calm. A good run doing 7+knots motor sailing. The crew actually put a jumper on this morning! Arrived at Horseshoe Bay at 5pm. Strange coming in with only a couple of boats at anchor. This place is usually packed but everyone has gone south for the summer. Makes us feel we are dragging the chain a bit but we are making good time.<br />
Miles: 84 TTT: 3,530<br />
<br />
Fri 23 Nov – Cape Upstart<br />
19⁰42.550S / 147⁰45.122E<br />
Another dark 4am start. By the time we rounded Magnetic Island and went past the five tankers at anchor the sun was rising and reflecting pink off all the clouds – very pretty. Headed east and passed Cape Bowling Green around 9.30am then turned south. Seas are good. Motor sailed doing almost 7 knots but when we turned south we dropped to around 6 knots and less. Good wind filling the sails. Around 1pm the Coastwatch plane came in from behind us low and close – woke the crew from slumber and gave the skipper quite a start. They then called us up by name wanting our details – last port of call, next port etc. We wondered what they were doing on this part of the coast. Also thought what a cushy job that would be! Coming into Cape Upstart its just a glorious day – the sky so blue the sea such a pretty green and Cape Upstart bare and rugged in front of us. Anchored at Cape Upstart off a tiny beach with a few little houses – holiday shacks. A huge healthy looking eagle. Beautiful spot. People come from Ayr and Home Hill. Some locals came out trolling and got a Spanish mackerel each. A spot to come back to.<br />
Miles: 68 TTT: 3,598<br />
<br />
Well we are making good headway and tonight we are in the next bay from Airlie Beach in the Whitsundays. The weather is blowing up again on Monday so we may have another enforced rest!<br />
<br />
Getting closer! Love to all<br />
Fair Winds and Calm Seas<br />
Dell and Peter<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-59279289325295227972012-11-18T14:51:00.005+10:002012-11-18T14:51:42.116+10:00LWH – Week 19 –Night Island – night passageSun – Wed 11 – 14 Nov – Night Island<br />
Sunday was a very sheltered day wondering if we stopped too soon but Monday the big blow came in with 30 knot winds and we were very glad to be where we were. Each evening the pigeons came in and we could hear a deep buzzing sound of thousands of pigeons cooing on the island. Another yacht came in on Tuesday afternoon heading north and anchored towards the north of the island. The next morning they were rolling badly. We had a slight bit of swell but all in all were pretty comfy.<br />
<br />
Thurs 15 Nov – Morris Island<br />
13⁰29.430S / 143⁰43.377E<br />
Today would have been little Jackie matys birthday<br />
We left at 6.30am but it was still pretty blowy so we decided to head 20 miles up to Morris Island which is a lovely sand island with a coconut palm and surrounded by lots of reef. The colour of the water was reminiscent of the Philippines. When the tide went out there was a huge sandspit coming out from the island. A couple of pelicans on the beach when we arrived (haven’t seen one of those for ages). We anchored at 12 and by 12.15 it was pouring rain but it didn’t last long. Some large white heron type birds were on the shore and also lots of little birds sitting along the beach. We are still following the shipping channel as it goes between all the reef. This little sandspit island turns into a huge island at low tide when all the reef is exposed and if you were inclined to you could walk for miles. At high tide you wouldn’t know there was any reef around so it just goes to show how close the reef is lurking to the surface! The wind howled till after midnight. A horrible sound but very comfortable though our track at anchorage was all over the place – we think currents are at play here. The skipper had a bit of luck here and caught a huge Spanish mackerel. The freezer is full so it is no more fishing for a while!!!!<br />
Miles: 21 TTT: 3,093<br />
<br />
Friday 16 Nov – Flinders Islands<br />
14⁰10.677S / 144⁰13.729E<br />
We left at 5.30am. The wind had died off but started up again at around 5. We put the sails out and could see a tug towing a barge out in the shipping channel – shades of Indonesia! And just to really make it like Indonesia someone did a nonsense gargle on channel 16! The skipper has taken to wearing a shirt as he is cold! We saw the biggest yellow seasnake sunning itself on the surface – it had to be 6 – 7 ft long. It was a beautiful sunny day and we motor sailed over 6 knots all morning following the edge of the shipping channel. During the afternoon the winds increased as did the waves and then we had to turn up into it to get to Cape Melville so we pulled into the Flinders Group and anchored at 4.30pm in 7.3m. We were surprised to see six other boats in there and two more came in after us. Some are heading north and some south. We ran out of pineapple, banana and pawpaw yesterday so now we are on the oranges. The wind howled through till about 2am. A comfortable night.<br />
Miles: 62 TTT: 3,155<br />
<br />
Sat 17 Nov – night sail<br />
We upanchored in the dark at 5am and motored through the Owen channel. The Flinders Islands are stark and beautiful. It started out another lovely sunny day – area of interest rounding Cape Melville – hills covered in huge boulders and around the Cape three piles of boulders like God just dumped them there like piles of building blocks. Barrow point – really pretty – very rocky with big slabs of rock which look like it used to be an ancient building (its not) – unusual rocks here. A cat had been anchored at Barrow Island and left just before we got there and called us up for a weather report and it was so good they went back to Barrow Island. Just before Lookout Point we saw the most wonderful white sand cliffs shining in the afternoon sun – they looked quite spectacular. Lookout Point is where Captain Cook left his ship Endeavour while he went out to Lizard Island to try to find a way through the reef. Yes he did and they went out through a gap in the reef the other side of Lizard Island. We also passed Watson Island today which is where Mrs Watson and her baby died of thirst after escaping an Aborigine attack on Lizard Island in a bech-de-mer tub. Just watched the most beautiful sunset. The sun was a big orange orb – could have something to do with the smoke haze from burning off. We went through the night in perfect conditions except the wind dropped out. <br />
<br />
We are currently enroute to Cairns having motor sailed through the night. We want to take the best advantage of this wonderful weather window we have been offered. <br />
<br />
Hope all your days are sunny too.<br />
Much love<br />
Fair Winds and Calm Seas<br />
Dell and Peter<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-81715733781730527822012-11-12T09:19:00.000+10:002012-11-12T09:20:25.821+10:00LWH - Week 18 -Seisia - Night IslandSat 3 Nov - Seisia
<br>We had a quiet day on board and had seen children swimming off the beach near the jetty. Around 4pm we joined the crews of the other boats and went in for a game of cricket. One of them had fashioned a bat out of a piece of wood. We all had a couple of goes at batting and while we were playing we saw one of the two resident crocodiles swimming past. He was around 4 metres. We then went to the Fishing Club but it was closed so that meant no dinner but they were happy to serve us drinks. Back to the boats before it got dark!
<br>
<br>Sun 4 Nov - Seisia
<br>We joined a few of the others on the beach on the little island off the anchorage (Red Island), which incidentally is apparently where the big croc hangs out. We walked around the island. Barbara off Casper is something of a botanist and knew all the scientific names for plants and trees. Another couple are bird watchers and photographers so it was an interesting exercise. It took us around two and a half hours - a good morning. Spent the rest of the day reading and waiting on a weather window to round the Cape.
<br>
<br>Mon 5 Nov - Seisia
<br>Went ashore and watched a large ship dock at the jetty - quite a feat getting in there as it is very shallow. Someone had caught a shark and tossed it on the beach and one of the workers told us that both crocodiles had been chased away from it a couple of times and it would have to be moved. This was just near where we saw a man have an early morning swim. We then headed up the road and a lady offered us a lift and we declined but then a resort bus stopped and offered us a lift to Bamaga so we thought why not. There is not much in Bamaga - we checked out the supermarket and had a pie at the bakery then headed back towards Seisia. We met the others a t the New Mapoon cemetery. It is so colourful with heaps of artificial flowers on the graves and headstones with a photo of the person and a rundown of their life. Then we went to the Art and Craft shop where the Indigenous people do paintings. They are not the dot paintings - they are a different style. We walked back to Seisia calling in at the butcher on the way back. In the late afternoon ten of us met on the cat, Easy Rider and had a game of dice. We have never played this before but it was a good game and we had a great evening.
<br>
<br>Tues 6 Nov - Seisia
<br>We went ashore and did last minute shopping and a water run then adjourned to Easy Rider for the Melbourne Cup. There were twelve of us as another boat had come in. The ladies all wore hats and Wayne off Casper did up a Melbourne Cup quiz and we had a sweep and had a fantastic afternoon. We then watched the race on delayed telecast on the computer but that was the least important part of the afternoon!!! A great afternoon with good company.
<br>
<br>Wed 7 Nov - Cape York
<br>10 41.248S / 142 31.474E
<br>We left at 10am after the tide came up a bit. It was a good trip up the Cape and then beating into the wind and tide for an hour or so and we anchored on the west side of the Cape at 2pm. Casper, Easy Rider and Jasmin came in shortly after. It was really blowing but it was a calm anchorage. The weather forecast for tomorrow is 15 - 20 knots instead of 20 - 25 knots so we are going for it.
<br>Miles: 19 TTT: 2,898nm
<br>
<br>Thurs 8 Nov Day/night 1
<br>We left at 8am and pushed current around to the Albany Passage. We followed Easy Rider and Jasmin through. A beautiful sunny day. Pushed a bit of current then came out into a wavy ocean and pushed into more current. The further we got from the passage the better it got. We had current against us and the waves were a metre with the odd two metre wave which stopped us in our tracks at times. We only managed to do 2.5 - 3 knots so it took forever and was most unpleasant. But we remember it being quite unpleasant on the way up here - its just not a nice part of the coast! At midnight the crew could see a ship on the AIS and it looked as though we were going to meet it at the narrow stretch between the reefs. As soon as we passed the reef we headed for the starboard side of the shipping channel and when we saw his red light we knew we were going to be ok. The wind blew hard all night.
<br>
<br>Fri 9 Nov - Day 2 Portland Roads
<br>12 35.629S / 143 24.432E
<br>We didn't make it to Shelburne Bay till the early hours of the morning so continued on to Margret Bay and then made the decision to keep going. We pushed up around Cape Grenville and through some islands, one of which had a resort on it, and then had a lovely sail with current for most of the morning. A big ship went through the narrowest section of the channel just before we did and we passed him quite closely. The winds were about 10 - 15 so it was lovely. Shortly after we had to turn up to head towards Portland Roads. we had current against us and wind on the nose which had come up a bit. We tried to hug the land as much as we could. We thought about pushing through to the Flinders but it would have meant another two nights and we weren't sure we could make it before the next big blow came through and we were pretty tired so we pulled into Portland Roads and anchored at 5.45pm in 7m beside another cat. And fell into bed. We think the other boats stayed at Shelburne Bay.
<br>Miles: 133 TTT: 3,031
<br>
<br>Sat 10 Nov - Night Island
<br>13 10.779S / 143 34.376E
<br>We left at 5.40am and had wind on the nose till we were able to get up around Cape Waymouth and Restoration Island. A couple of ships passed us. We are staying just on the edge of the shipping channel. Apart from the shipping channel which is quite narrow there is reef everywhere. The reef provides good shelter so the seas are not too bad. We had a good run in the morning doing 6 knots but in the afternoon slowed down to 4 knots. We thought about the Flinders again but were afraid of getting caught out in 30 knot winds so pulled in behind Night Island at 2.30pm. The wind was really starting to come up by then. We had a little bit of rain after we anchored. The island is a haven for Torres Strait pigeons which are white with black under their wings and on the tips and are really pretty. We were able to sit on the deck (not quite so windy here) and watch them all coming out from the mainland in the evening. A very sheltered spot. No email or phone.
<br>Miles: 41 TTT: 3,072
<br>
<br>We are currently waiting for the big blow to come through thinking maybe we could have gone a bit further but this is a good place to sit out a blow. Hope to be on the way again around Thursday.
<br>
<br>Love to all
<br>Fair Winds and Calm Seas
<br>Dell and Peter
<br>
<br>----------
<br>radio email processed by SailMail
<br>for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com">http://www.sailmail.com</a>Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-87975934827396064002012-11-03T11:58:00.003+10:002012-11-03T11:58:51.235+10:00LWH – Week 17 – Gove - SeisiaSat 27 Oct - Gove<br />
Happy Birthday Simone<br />
We finally got our part around 10.30am and the skipper had it installed in around 15 minutes and we should have left straight away but that would have meant being in the Gulf of Carpentaria for three nights. Instead we did a water run, did a final wash and joined Bob and Gordon at the Boat Club for dinner. There was supposed to be a band but no one turned up so Ron the manager did it himself. Apparently he used to have a band down south and he was exceptionally good. A lovely evening. We left at 8pm and put Bob and Freddy aboard.<br />
<br />
Sun 28 Oct – Day/night 1 Gulf Crossing<br />
We left just before 6am and headed out in the calmest sea – so hard to believe what it had been like two weeks previously. Had lots of calls and texts for the crew’s birthday including the two lovely gentlemen off Sometime. We motor sailed all day doing up to 7 knots but settling pretty much to 5.5. The seas were fairly calm which was a lovely surprise. The skipper saw some dolphins and a booby bird kept trying to land but kept trying to land in the middle of the sail and finally landed on the water. We had been keeping a careful eye on him. The skipper cooked a lovely birthday meal of silverside with white sauce and potato and greens washed down with a glass of Kyle’s lovely white wine. A lovely evening. We had a full moon and it was so bright it was beautiful. At 1am we had dolphins all around the boat. They seemed huge. At one point a dozen of them surfaced all together, just off the bow of the boat. They frisked around the boat surfacing right beside the cockpit and they kept me amused for quite some time.<br />
<br />
Mon 29 Oct – Day/night 2 Gulf Crossing<br />
Have checked the gribs and it is going to be a near run thing to make it before the big winds come in so we are heading for the closest possible landfall. We passed halfway in the morning then the seas came up though there wasn’t a lot of wind and we found ourselves in 3m seas. One of the earlier boats reported the same thing when they crossed. We think it is to do with the currents etc and not a lot to do with the weather. Anyway suffice to say it was a horrible horrible day and very uncomfortable. During the evening the wind dropped right off, the seas calmed with just a slight swell and had that calm oily look about it and we had our full moon and it was quite lovely. Around midnight the skies got very dark so checked the radar and sure enough there were storm clouds ahead. Funnily enough just right at the spot we had to go through the clouds had almost cleared left and right and left us a little channel! We copped about 30 seconds of rain and then we were through and it joined up behind us again. Around 2am the wind picked up and the seas picked up and it was sooooo uncomfortable. At 4am the autopilot stopped working (cant tell you what an important part of the boat this is!) and the skipper rudder steered for two hours. <br />
<br />
Tues 30 Oct – Day 3 Gulf Crossing<br />
12⁰20.253S / 141⁰40.655E<br />
At 6am we started half hour shifts of rudder steering. Every time we hit a big wave we almost stopped and we were really doing it tough. Then about 10am the seas started calming and the skies were clear and it turned into a lovely day. The half hour shifts worked well so it wasn’t too wearing and we dozed in between but by late afternoon we were pretty tired not having much sleep the night before as it had been too rough. We saw a yellow sea snake floating on the surface and also a floating turtle with a bird sitting on its back. At 14 miles out the skipper could see land and at 9 miles out the crew could see land so we just headed for the coast and it seemed to take forever. We dropped anchor in 8m a few hundred metres from a lovely deserted white sandy beach. We had a lovely bucket shower (our camp showers have long since given up the ghost) and a lovely steak washed down with a glass of Kyle’s wine and fell into bed.<br />
Miles: 304 TTT: 2,764<br />
<br />
Wed 31 Oct – coastal anchorage, Qld<br />
11⁰59.575S / 141⁰50.183E<br />
We slept really well and awoke to a lovely beach. The wind had dropped off and it was really calm. At last now it is starting to feel like we are coming home. This feels like Australia! That was our last crossing. From now on it is day hopping and only doing over nighters if we choose to. The skipper got out the two other broken autopilots and managed to make one good one out of them so we again have an autopilot. He then changed the fuel filters and we upanchored at 11.30am and had a lovely sail up the coast. The wind was a bit gusty and we did between 3 and 7 knots and sailed all the way. We pulled into the coast again before the Wenlock River and dropped anchor at 5pm. The last hour or so had been very windy. Its a beautiful coastline of just continual beach. Saw a couple of isolated huts but nothing else. A lovely day.<br />
<br />
Miles: 24 TTT: 2,788<br />
Thurs 1 Nov – coastal anchorage, Qld<br />
11⁰11.403S / 142⁰08.113E<br />
We left at 6.30am and sailed with just the headsail out. We had to go a long way out to get around the Wenlock River as it was shallow. The wind came up and it is amazing how quickly the waves and chop can build in such a short distance from the shore. It was blowing hard and gusting 25+ knots which really heeled the boat right over. The crew is not a fan of heeling so far and it was not a nice day. Though we sailed up to 7.5knots. It was so windy and wavy and we came into the coast between two points and went into 300 metres from shore so the waves dropped off and anchored in 6.5 metres. It was a wonderful anchorage and the wind dropped right off for the night.<br />
Miles: 53 TTT: 2,841<br />
<br />
Fri 2 Nov – Seisia, Qld<br />
10⁰50.856S / 142⁰21.799E<br />
We left at 4.50am to beat the strong wind and to catch the rising tide. It was very calm as we motored the ten miles across to the channel through the shallow water into the Endeavour Strait. We put the headsail out and must have had current with us as we were doing 7 knots. Saw a huge black and white snake floating past. The wind came up on the nose around 8am but it wasn’t too bad. - We could see another yacht coming in from the opposite direction. We followed the leads in and anchored off the township of Seisia at 11.45am in 6.5m. At 1pm we put Bob in and took our jerries ashore to the service station (about 500 metres). The lovely lady at the servo drove us back to the boat ramp with our jerries. We did another trip and she drove us back again. Then we went to the supermarket. The fruit and veges were really cheap. Only $4 for a kilo of tomatoes as against $10 a kilo in Gove! On the way back to the boat we called over to say hullo to Easy Rider. They have been here a week. One boat headed south but Easy Rider decided to come back when they saw the weather forecast. Said hullo to Caspar who have also been here a little while. There are five of us boats here now all waiting on a weather window to go south. Seisia has a much nicer feel to it than Gove – more free and easy maybe or more equality - don’t know. We are glad to finally be here but there is heavy weather on the way so we will stay hunkered down here for a while as it is quite sheltered in this little anchorage. We phoned the boys off Sometime and they had their motor fixed and had just left Gove heading across the Gulf. We really hope they get in before the weather changes. We had a good trip up the Endeavour Strait but the others in here had a nightmare trip of it. Guess we finally won one!! A lovely calm night.<br />
Miles: 38 TTT: 2,879<br />
<br />
Getting closer – when we get the window we will go for it but it may not be until Wednesday or Thursday. Rosie’s birthday is on Monday 5th November and she will be 13. Happy birthday little one.<br />
Love to all.<br />
Calm Seas and Fair Winds (I don’t think thats an Australian water saying!!!)<br />
Dell and Peter<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-15351325984166557312012-10-27T14:56:00.004+10:002012-10-27T14:56:54.797+10:00LWH – Week 16 : GoveSat 20 - Sat 27 Oct<br />
Well it has been an extraordinarily frustrating week. We ordered our water pump on Monday 15 October. On Tuesday 23 October it finally turned up in Melbourne. By Thursday 25th it was in Brisbane, the 26th in Darwin and we finally got it today – Saturday 27th October. And it took the skipper less than 15 minutes to install it. What can you say!!!!!! We did have a lovely day on Friday. We hired the ute again and shared it with two lovely gentlemen off a yacht called Some Time who are also stuck here awaiting parts. We did all our shopping and went up the lookout and had a lovely day with good company. We have met quite a few lovely people passing through on their way east. Anyway tomorrow we are going to head off and start the Gulf crossing.<br />
Love to all.<br />
Fair Winds and Calm Seas<br />
Dell and Peter<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-90081063846473688692012-10-20T15:59:00.000+10:002012-10-20T15:59:00.851+10:00LWH – Week 15 : GoveSat 13 – Fri 19 Oct<br />
Well I wont bore you with a day by day blow of our time in Gove. Gove consists of an alumina plant and the Gove Boat Club. The water is an incredibly beautiful colour but other than that there is nothing here. The nearest town is Nuhlumbuy about 11km away. You need a liquor permit to be able to buy alcohol at Woolies and we couldn’t get that until Monday and you cannot buy casks of wine – it is bottles only. We have had a couple of meals at the Boat Club which is open from Thursday to Sunday and a lunch at the Walkabout Tavern in the town. We have met a few fellow yachties passing through but they have been able to continue their journeys while we just sit and wait and hope our part will eventually come in and a weather window will open up for us to get across the Gulf. A lovely man came out and found the problem with our water pump. The bronze housing of the salt water pump has corroded and so the metal wear plate isn’t sitting straight and flush against the impellor so it sucks air and not water. He did a temporary repair with sicaflex behind the wear plate so it acts as a flat bedding which may last five minutes, five hours or five years!!! Either way we cannot risk going home without a new water pump. We did however, move a little closer to shore so it is not so far to go in Bob. We hired a ute for the day and dumped the 80 litres of diesel from the deck which we bought in Indonesia (dirty fuel) and have jerried out enough to fill the tank with good fuel. We also paid for our 2 – 3 km tow - $500 – yep!! So add that to the $330 we had to pay to Quarantine and it has cost us $830 before we even set foot on land. – Welcome home!!! We continue to do the radio sked with the boats still in Indonesia and one of them has engine problems up there and we feel so sorry for them. It is bad enough here but at least we are home! We are enjoying the showers and we actually used a washing machine the other day! Wow how easy was that to do the washing! Anyway this is Arnhem Land – homelands and not only do we need a permit for liquor but if we wanted to go anywhere other than town I believe we have to get a permit for that too. Not so much the land of the free up here – in fact not anything like the real Australia where you live. We are keeping ourselves busy – the skipper has been doing a bit of fishing – score 5 reef sharks.<br />
<br />
Much love to all<br />
Fair Winds and Calm Seas<br />
Dell and Peter<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-59847817166799175582012-10-16T14:36:00.002+10:002012-10-16T14:36:30.869+10:00LWH – Week 14 : Arafura Sea CrossingSun 07 Oct – Day/Night 1<br />
We left at 6.15am and stayed well clear of the headland. We motored into a reasonable swell with a few very big waves which was a bit of a hang on and close the eyes job! As we got further away from the islands it settled a bit and we tacked to try to keep wind in the sails – motor sailing. We emailed (sail mail) off our letter of Intent to return to Customs. Saw a big clump of seaweed with a turtle floating beside it eating the seaweed. The skipper saw a pilot whale. Just on dark a beautiful booby bird started circling and flying alongside us. A magnificent beautiful bird. He landed at the bow of the boat and preened himself but it wasn’t a comfortable place to be and he fell off a couple of times. Once he landed on the deck but took off again and by now it was dark and he came in from behind and hit the wind generator – he didn’t see or hear it. I looked back and he was lying in the water stunned – I cannot get the vision out of my head. He took off and went a short way and disappeared. I fear we killed him. What a horrible horrible thing. Still haunts me. We went through the night with breeze on the nose and lots of current against us. The seas were very comfortable though.<br />
<br />
Mon 8 Oct – Day/Night 2<br />
Cannot get the booby bird out of my head. So sad. The skipper said he should clean the filters before they clogged again but I wasn’t keen to stop the engine. Something about if it aint broke don’t fix it. Well at 11.30am that was proven to be folly when the motor stopped. The skipper had to change the engine fine fuel filter (we have only one left!) and the pre fuel filters (we have two left). We had been unable to secure anymore in Tual. The dirty fuel is proving a disaster. He was able to get us going again and has tried to clear up a used engine fine filter just in case There is not enough wind to sail so are following the rhumb line and it is so painfully slow. Doesnt feel like we are making anyheadway. And its so worrying about the motor. We have very calm seas but no wind so we cant sail. Heaps of small dolphins travelling with the boat in the late arfternoon. I did a three hour stint through the night but apart from that the skipper let me sleep. Tired and depressed so needed it. Slept really well.<br />
<br />
Tues 9 Oct – Day/Night 3<br />
What a gorgeous day – amazing what a goodnight’s sleep does. Sea so calm, current not quite as bad. Have seen six turtles snoozing on the surface. The skipper did the 8am sked, cleaned both filters and went to bed. Had both sails out for a while but the wind was on the nose – its really just a breeze. Have been able to read a book this passage which is really good as it certainly passes the time. There is nothing but sea to the sky all the way around. So lovely and have got used to stopping the boat in the middle of nowhere! We crossed into Australian economic waters at 11.08am so took down the Indonesion courtesy flag and put up the yellow Q (quarantine) flag. Passed a big tanker in the afternoon on its way to Singapore. Saw a few tankers on the AIS after that. One changed course to go behind us. We heard the coast watch plane call up a couple of boats but they didn’t call us. The half moon came up at 1.15 and the sky is so full of stars. Saw five fishing buoys which we hadn’t expected to see here.<br />
<br />
Wed 10 Oct – Day/Night 4<br />
11⁰23.071S / 136D53.237E<br />
The sea is so calm and its a beautiful day. We motor sailed and rounded Cape Wessel at 3pm – as far as crossings go it was pretty good – just long. And then the nightmare began. The skipper turned the motor off and was so excited because we were sailing and doing 6 knots but when he went to start the motor again there was a terrible smell and though the water pump was pumping it wasn’t pumping water. We sailed till around 8pm with the skipper working on the motor the whole time and then we lost the wind altogether and were slowly heading towards land with the current. So we had to anchor 20 miles out to sea in 43m – the first time we have had to use the 100m of rope. <br />
<br />
Thurs 11 – Day 5<br />
12⁰10.919S / 136⁰40.060E<br />
We didn’t sleep terribly well and had the anchor hauled in and the sails out by 6.00am. We knew our weather window was closing and strong winds were predicted for the afternoon. We sailed with not a lot of wind so we got the jenniker out and that got us along quite well and as always we left if slightly late to get it in and thats a huge struggle. We saw a tanker on the AIS go right over the spot where we had been anchored!!!! Australian Customs called us around 3.45 as they had been expecting us in the morning so they told us to anchor where we could and they would contact us at 8am. As we got closer to Gove the wind was building and then it changed direction and went on the nose so we had to tack all the way across the harbour to the beach in gale force winds with spray coming off the top of the waves. The skipper estimated 30 – 40 knots and 3-4 m waves. The conditions are the worst we have experienced as we had to head into it. He sailed across to the beach on the other side (I say he because I was a screaming wreck on the cockpit floor) but that was no good so he tacked back towards Gove just behind the big jetty and we anchored there. He pulled in the headsail first and we slowed too much so had to use the motor to get us a bit further in – an awful knock coming from it. Dropped anchor and luckily it grabbed immediately so he dropped the main and laid the anchor out and I secured the sail. It was a little more sheltered from the waves but the wind was howling – its a horrible noise. The skipper cooked a pork roast bless him. Went to bed but didn’t sleep well.<br />
<br />
Fri 12 Oct – Gove, Australia<br />
12⁰12.043S / 136⁰41.919E<br />
We didn’t sleep well. The wind howled all night but the sea settled till the early hours of the morning. Customs called us at 8am and they said they weren’t coming to where we were and we should move so we advised that we needed a tow so they had someone contact us but he couldn’t come till 11am. The Michael J came for us after 11 and towed us the extra 2 – 3 miles round to the anchorage. It was very rough and still blowing like mad with waves. We anchored about 1 km from the shore and just sat. An hour or two later we had Customs, Immigration and Quarantine on board. They were pleasant young men (one was from Pine Rivers) and of course they took all our meat and fruit and veg and noodles which we had expected. But we had to pay them $330 for the privilege. No it is not a fine – it is what we Australian citizens have to pay to come home and if we come in on a weekend you can just about double it!! We don’t pay it if we fly in – these guys get paid for doing their job so why the fee! It cost us about that to replace all the stuff we lost. Had a quiet night on board feeling a little bit traumatised!<br />
Miles: 480 TTT: 2,460<br />
<br />
Well here we sit in Gove awaiting a new water pump. The weather is too bad to leave yet anyway so we have an enforced stay. Which is probably good recovery time. There are a few boats here waiting to leave – some have left and come back a couple of times. For those who think we are nearly home – we aren’t!! Its still around 1800 miles to go and its all pushing against the wind and waiting for weather windows. We are grateful that we made it and are here to tell the tale!!!<br />
<br />
Much love to all<br />
Fair Winds and Calm Seas<br />
Dell and Peter<br />
Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-89245620340911167092012-10-07T18:54:00.000+10:002012-10-07T18:55:06.717+10:00LWH - Week 13 : TualSun 30 Sept - Tual Channel - Tual
<br>05 38.248S 132 44.360E
<br>
<br>Best sleep in ages! So calm wouldn't have known you were on a boat. Put Bob in and headed to the small beach thinking to snorkel but it was rocks not coral so we had a very welcome swim off the beach. We then went to the next beach over which was lovely and walked to the end. Found a large starfish which we put back into the water but think it may have been too late for him. Also found a dead seasnake - black and white bands but we didn't put him back into the water - he may have been faking it! Saw a fisherman diving for clams. Lots of clam shells on the beach. It was starting to blow up. A big blow is due tomorrow for at least five days. We were going to head up to the channel to Tual tomorrow but a bit worried the blow may come in early and don't want to get caught in 20m. So we put Bob on board and followed the red and green markers up the channel and anchored in 12m opposite the town just before the bridge, beside a seaweed (we think) farm at 2.15pm. Very happy to be here and looking forward to exploring the town. There is a big cemetery just over the way on the hill. It seemed to be a ship grave yard on the way in - lots of rusting and sunken ships. A beautiful red orb sunset and a huge full moon rising!
<br>Miles: 8 TTT: 1,988
<br>
<br>Mon 1 Oct - Tual
<br>Well the wind came in a day early. We are anchored beside a mass of small water bottles and floats which is either a pearl or a seaweed farm. Eddie came by in his long boat to see if we needed solar (diesel) so we gave him our jerries and he got our diesel. The skipper was not that thrilled with the quality of it though. Bit cloudy. We filter it before we put it in the tank and we are going to buy a heap of fuel filters (when we can find them!) so we should be ok. Other than that a quiet day on board.
<br>
<br>Tues 2 Oct - Tual
<br>Happy Anniversary Amy and Pete
<br>Happy Birthday Ann
<br>The wind drops off at night but comes back with a vengeance through the day. We are watching the weather via grib files and also listening to the HF reports and have Debbie on weather alert and we think we may be able to move in five days or so. Went ashore - took Bob in where there was a rubbly bank where the fishing boats are tied to the shore. It is very deep until you hit the shore - have to step out of the front of Bob! We struggled to get Bob up the rubbly incline and tied him up and checked with a fishing boat that it was ok to leave him there. Walked down the port road to the town. Most people said hullo though some people were a bit reticent. We walked down the street till we got to a police post where the skipper asked directions and the crew walked further up a side street. There were some school boys there and some other men walking towards me and I felt uneasy so went back. We caught a minibus to where we thought the fuel filters were and they werent. It was very hot so we walked back to the supermarket and picked up a few things then walked all the way back over the bridge looking for a restaurant. There really wasn't anything around. We found a little makan place and had a nasi goring freshly cooked. Most of the places had their food already prepared and all deep fried. We walked to the market and everyone said hullo how are you - it got rather wearing. All the same the town doesn't exactly have a friendly vibe. We went back to the boat. Eddie drives past in his boat most afternoons to check on us! Each afternoon there has been a game of soccer on with quite a crowd cheering. It is on a small soccer field specially set up near the port (bare dirt/gravel not lawn). All the fishermen who go past wave and are friendly.
<br>
<br>Wed 3 Oct - Tual
<br>We were going to go ashore around 10 but a tug bought a great big barge in and headed straight for the bank where we had previously left Bob. At the last minute the tug reversed out of the way and the barge kept going. It was a deft piece of driving! We watched for a while and finally went ashore at 1pm. The skipper took an ojek to Lenggur across the bridge looking for fuel filters while I went to the market to do some shopping having every single stall owner say hullo and I didn't feel like bargaining so walked up the street and up the hill to find an interesting looking building we had seen from the boat but after I copped an F you from some youths I retreated back to the main street and just wandered around. Happened upon a shop which sold beer much cheaper than the last town. Finally found the skipper again around 2.30 after he borrowed someone's phone to call me. I had walked back to Bob and met about six young school children, one of whom was Marga who were lovely. We got the beer and I chatted with the children while the skipper went on a further foray for fuel filters. One of the children asked for money but Marga said no. I think when people leave here they may give their small change to the kids but that then only encourages the kids to ask for money. We went back to the boat, both of us just not quite liking the place. There are heaps of mosques around and at 4am they all started singing at once - all different tunes and from different directions and many of them! They don't seem to do the Malaysian call to prayer - this is actually quite nice but not when it goes for an hour and they sermonise then sing all over the loud speakers. 4am to 5am!
<br>
<br>Thurs 4 Oct - Tual
<br>Went to Immigration to check out which took about ten minutes and the chap was lovely. We went next door to Customs but it wasn't open yet so walked down the street and saw another cemetery among the houses. When Customs opened there was no one from Customs actually there - they had gone to Ambon (we think) so we walked down to the Harbour Master but he wanted two copies of the Immigration stamped crew list so he sat me down to watch TV while the skipper walked back up the hill to Immigration. There was a National Geo show on about all the bull sharks in the canals on the Gold Coast and also in America. Dont even put your toe in one of those canals! The skipper meanwhile had an entourage of school girls follow him back down the hill! It took about 45 mins with the Harbour Master and that was it - didn't have to worry about Customs. Went to the market and bought our fruit and veg then back to Bob. But the tide had gone out so had to walk Bob along the bank and then put him in between the fishing boats. Good thing he has wheels! We were assisted by 3 or 4 small boys so we gave them a couple of bubble blowers. In the afternoon we had a very loud knocking on our boat and when we went up there was another yacht anchored next to us and its skipper had come calling. He came aboard and was after information on Indonesia. He was Swiss and his wife Belgique and they had come from New Caledonia via the Luissiades. He didn't have a visa or a CAIT and he also had a dog on board so not sure how he will get on with Immigration. Anyway we had a good chat and we gave him some info on anchorages etc so he was delighted.
<br>
<br>Fri 5 Oct - Tual - Langgear
<br>05 56.308S / 132 51.289E
<br>We left around 6.30am and went up the channel and out around the island. It rained and got a bit rough but then it settled and we had a good sail for a while and anchored towards the bottom of Kai Besar. It was overcast so hard to see the reef. Anchored in 14m and went back to 20. A very pretty spot with alovely white sand beach. Saw another large fish leap four times out of the water today. Wondered if they were trying to get lice off themselves or whether it is just good fun. The wind came up in the afternoon and we had wind against tide and it wasn't the best anchorage. Wasnt too bad a night though.
<br>Miles: 39 TTT: 2,027
<br>
<br>Sat 6 Oct - Langgear
<br>The grib files are showing a weather window so we have decided to try for Gove. We were of two minds of whether to go tonight or in the morning. The crew spent the day stowing everything and having a cleanup while the skipper cooked some meals for along the way. We decided to leave in the morning so had a lamb roast with roast veges and a bottle of wine for dinner - delicious. The wind howled all through the night and we rolled badly enough that we didn't get a lot of sleep!
<br>Well thats the week - we are currently on the first day of our four day three night crossing to Gove. The weather window closes on Friday but we should be there by then.
<br>Brett and Delphine, have a wonderful holiday. Love to everyone and special thoughts for Maureen.
<br>
<br>Fair Winds and Calm Seas
<br>Dell and Peter
<br>
<br>----------
<br>radio email processed by SailMail
<br>for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com">http://www.sailmail.com</a>Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-81152252682531365322012-10-01T15:15:00.000+10:002012-10-01T15:16:13.915+10:00LWH - Week 12 : Seram - TualSat 22 Sept - Wahai, Serum Islands
<br>02 47.616S / 129 31.019E
<br>
<br>We went past the town of Wahai and came through the red and green markers leading in to where we were going to anchor. There was reef both sides of the markers and we motored in with the motor in neutral to where we thought the waypoint was which was supposed to be in mud. We were very close to the mangroves when a fishing boat came in behind us and started yelling at us to get out of there and then the depth sounder hit 7.8m and Pacific Express's bow was over reef and we had a big bommy just beside the cockpit! We reversed out of there very carefully and went around the jetty and anchored up the back in the mud very close to where the waypoint we had been heading to was. We just had to go around the jetty first!! Thats probably as close as we have come (except for once when the crew was driving!) to putting Pacific Express on a reef! Excuses and lessons learnt - both exceedingly tired, almost home so took the eye off the road; we always have crew up the front when coming in but because we thought we were coming into mud we hadn't bothered! Complacency kills so it has given us both a huge wake up! We anchored at 9.30 in 9m and went back to 4m backing towards the mudbank - at least its only mud! Anyway we are in the calmest place off a little village which is surrounded by mud at low tide. We can also see all the reef where we tried to take Pacific Express into! A little canoe with husband and wife laid a net around right beside the boat and then beat the water to frighten the fish into the net. They didn't have much luck that time but they are still out there trying. The fishing Boat Inkamina anchored beside us to clean their nets and asked if we wanted any tuna. The place is absolutely beautiful. The only blight is the big genny running on the big boat at the jetty. The couple net fishing came over with their daughter to show us the fish they caught. It was a fair size! She looked like she had on one of her father's holey t-shirts so we gave her a new one. So pleased to be here.
<br>
<br>Sun 23 Sept - Wahai
<br>
<br>We walked to town about 10.30 - quite hot and a couple of kms but we decided we needed the exercise. We walked through the town being greeted by the 'hullo mister' and 'hullo missus'. The petrol station was just at the end of the road at the port but it was closed and had been for quite some time. We went to the market which was just some sari stores and a few veges for sale on the street. The town is almost enclosed by reef. We bought some bananas and then ran into an Australian who knew where to get beer - of course! There were three Aussies working doing thermal seismic work in a plane and helicopter to find minerals - apparently a joint venture between the Australian and Indonesian Governments. Had lunch then caught ojeks back. An ojek is on the back of a motor bike. The tide was way out and if Bob didn't have wheels we wouldn't have got him back in. We did not locate any diesel. Around 4 we were sitting on the deck and there were some kids on the wharf whooping and waving so we waved back and next thing they had jumped in the water and were swimming out. We suspect they had under estimated how far it was to the boat! We told them to go to the back of the boat so the five of them stood there so excited. The skipper got the map out and showed them what we have done/are doing. Gave them some orange juice and biccies and they were full of boyish exuberance and just such a delight. They were high school boys and shook our hands and had their photos taken on the bow of the boat - so polite. The skipper took two of them back ashore in Bob - the other three were yelling that they were going to Australia. The skipper then took the other three in - it made their day and it made our day too.
<br>
<br>Mon 24 Sept - Wahai
<br>
<br>A fisherman stopped by at 8.30am so the skipper gave him some fishing line and hooks. We walked to the little village off which we were anchored. Too muddy to take Bob in and we watched a bloke making a dugout canoe from a tree trunk. We then did the long hot walk to town, got some eggs and more beer (it is a long way home!). The beer shop always seemed to be closed but the locals yelled through the windows and they then opened! Very funny. When we were walking through the markets a little girl started crying - she was scared of us! We gave her a bubble pipe but it didn't seem to help much. They dont see that many farangs, though the kids are all learning English as they now get around 5,000 tourists a year here. We walked right to the end of town and we could not find anyone to sell us any diesel. We ordered lunch and the skipper waited outside and the makan place was right by the police station and a policeman came over and told the skipper he had to fill in some forms so off he went. The police only wanted to know what we were doing and were amazed and they had a good old laugh and chat - no forms. Then the skipper came back for his lunch. We caught two ojeks back. We were sitting on the deck around 5 when we saw four heads swimming to the boat. We had already put Bob and Freddy on board so had no way of taking them back. This lot were aged 14, 16, 18 and 19. They asked for cigarettes - tidak!!. The skipper did a good job talking to them. It was starting to get dark and the skipper explained they would have to swim back and they asked if he would like them to go now and he said yes so off they went and swam back - it was still exciting for them to just stand on the back of the boat and even though sometimes we don't feel like it, to an extent we are a window to the world for them. And they are so polite. We had a little rain the previous nights, not enough to give us anything really so the skipper took the rain catcher down so of course it bucketed down! We caught enough in the buckets to do a wash at any rate.
<br>
<br>Tues 25 Sept - Wahai - Tanjung Malakabo
<br>02 59.207S / 130 07.965E
<br>
<br>We left around 6.30 and all the guys on the big boat waved us off - bless em. Motored into a 10 knot breeze and current against us but it was a pleasant day. The scenery changed from mountains to rolling hills. Around lunch time the wind came up on the nose and it got quite rough. We got the main down and headed to the beach we were going to anchor off. We just got the anchor down and the rain hit and it poured. The other thing that happened at the same time was the height adjustment bolt holding the tiller up sheared off and the tiller collapsed! We anchored in 6m off the beach thinking we were going to have a rolly night. The skipper made some multi grain bread as we were unable to buy any in the last town. The skipper then went to his shed and just happened to have the right bolt with the right thread - he could open a shop with what he has in there! And the tiller was soon fixed. A pod of dolphins came in swimming not far from the boat but were very shy. Talk about an isolated spot - no lights, no cooking fires - absolutely no one here!
<br>Miles: 42 TTT: 1,743
<br>
<br>Wed 26 Sept - Tg Matakabo - Bula Bay
<br>03 06.308S / 130 32.692E
<br>
<br>A surprisingly comfortable night. Just a gentle rock at times or else calm. Got up at 5.30am just as it started to sprinkle. Upanchored at 6am and motored along on calm seas in the rain. Cleared and saw a huge tuna swimming along with its fin out of the water about 6ft long - at least thats what we think it must have been - it was not a shark. We sailed for an hour or so and then the wind went on the nose and the chop picked up a bit. When the tide changed the current went against us so we decided on a short day and anchored at 11.30 behind a sandspit off a beach quarter of a mile east of a big jetty. We could see the town of Bula right across the bay. It was a little rolly during the afternoon but once again it settled through the night.
<br>Miles: 29 TTT: 1,772
<br>
<br>Thurs 27 Sept - Bula Bay - Waru
<br>03 24.044S / 130 40.616E
<br>
<br>At 1am we awoke to the worst sewage smell ever. It was truly awful and really strong and lasted through the night. Smelt like they were emptying the entire town's septic tank!!! Apart from that we had a comfortable night and left at 6am to try to get around the Cape before the wind and the tide picked up. The swell really picks up around the Capes. The sea was flat but there was a large rolling swell. We had a pleasant journey around. The seas were flat with a slight swell. Anchored in 14m off a village at 10.07am. A very pretty place. Three boys in a rather large boat came to visit and the skipper spoke to them and showed them how to tie a hook and they went off happy. Two little boys came out in their canoe but weren't game to approach. Had a restful day. It was sunny and very protected. Late in the afternoon two boatloads of men came in to the village - we thought they may have been working on the outlying island. There was activity on the beach and a truck drove along the beach. We had a feeling they may have been dropping off firewood for the cooking fires which sprang up in the evening. We could hear the mosque but we could also hear what sounded like a disco - quite a contrast! A lovely calm night.
<br>Miles: 22 TTT: 1,794
<br>
<br>Fri 28 Sept - Waru - Night crossing
<br>We left at 5.45am in calm conditions. Our original plan had been to island hop to Tual but the weather across the region is blowing up in four days time so we have decided to do an overnighter to an island 20 miles short of Tual. The islands on the way are reefy and deep and we would have to feel around to find somewhere to anchor and you need good light for that. The seas started out calm with a nice breeze. Full sails up with motor assist. Lovely day till we got to Gorong Island around 3.30pm and then the wind went on the nose and we had current against us with a choppy sea - not uncomfortable though - 2200 revs for 4.7 knots! In 600m of water a huge fish leapt out of the water five times - we think this one was a baraccuda. Passing Gorong Island with a few small villages and we can see four mosques - one with a huge gold dome. It looked a very pretty island but we kept going. We motored through the night with a lovely full moon and a slight chop on the sea and it was a very comfortably night and we both managed to sleep.
<br>
<br>Sat 29 Sept - Crossing - Tual Channel
<br>05 34.426S / 132 40.419E
<br>
<br>The wind came up and the seas picked up a little. The fuel filter went so the skipper switched to the other one (dual system). We were heading into wind and current and the seas had chopped up a bit. About 10am they were calming down, wind dropping off when the motor stopped. Scary moment No. ???!!!! The other filter clogged as well so we floated around while the skipper changed both filters and the one on the motor and it was a heart stopping moment when he started the motor - and it went!!! We were 40 miles from Tual when a little sparrow landed on the deck. We fed him and watered him and he kept taking off but all he can find is us - no land so he kept coming back to us and made himself quite comfortable. We went through a bit of a squall but the sea state remained comfortable. We had both sails out for a time but then it went on the nose again. Our little bird found shelter under Bob and we fed him bread crumbs and water. He stayed with us for over 40 miles and left as we were coming into the island of Tual. We had intended to stop at an island 20 miles back but the angle of the wind and current just pointed us towards Tual. We tried to go around a little island to anchor but it was full of pearl farms so we came back and anchored off a tiny beach in 20 metres at 5pm. We couldn't get closer because of reef. It is very calm in here. In the whole two day and one night crossing we saw one tanker and two small fishing boats - there's not much out there. A boat went past waving and a huge tuna leapt about 10m out of the water behind hem - amazing. The crew actually put a cardigan on today!! Another night sail out of the way - so pleased to be here!
<br>Miles: 186 TTT: 1,980
<br>
<br>We are now anchored at Tual which is where we check out of Indonesia. So far we have been blessed with good conditions and good weather. But it now looks like blowing strongly for a week so we will probably be here for a while!
<br>
<br>Hope all is well. Miss you all but we are making headway.
<br>Fair Winds and Calm Seas
<br>Dell and Peter
<br>
<br>----------
<br>radio email processed by SailMail
<br>for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com">http://www.sailmail.com</a>Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-30182297138120249492012-09-23T20:09:00.000+10:002012-09-23T20:14:14.847+10:00LWH - Week 11 : - Tifore - SeramSat 15 Sept - Tifore - Tidore
<br>00 45.017N / 127 24.685E
<br>We didn't lift Bob up to let the air in as we were not going to be there long which was pretty dumb as we were both so hot we didn't sleep so at midnight the skipper lifted Bob but it was a bit too late! We got up at 2am and left at 2.30am and motored through the dark. There was lots of pretty phosphorescence in the water. We could see storms forming on the radar and got through the first lot and it formed behind us. We heard a bang on the side of the boat as we gave something a nudge! Around daybreak we ran into a storm and it got quite rough but the crew didn't notice as she had fallen asleep and didn't wake till the tone of the motor changed. The skipper had been watching a water spout develop and had slowed down to miss it - gave him quite a scare. We cleared the storms but we didn't seem to have the current with us today and had to hoik up to 2200 revs with sail assist and did 6.3 knots. The day turned into a beautiful day and in the afternoon we passed a couple of fishing boats. We had seen these fishing boats with a great big square front on them and we could see at least 20 fishermen on the front with rods just pulling in the fish and swinging back over their heads - much like the tuna fishermen on tv. Very interesting. As we came closer to the islands off Halmahera we could see eight volcanoes. The volcano on Ternate is a live one and still smokes on occasion. We came through the channel between Ternate and Tidore down to 3.9 knots and the sea was very confused with whirlpools and waves as the tide rushed between the two islands - quite scary. Ternate city is huge and just as Aussie towns used to have a pub on every corner Ternate seems to have a mosque on every corner! With a big new green one off the point of the port over the water. We had opted not to go into the town as we had read reports of having to re-check in and it all looked very busy. So many people live under this live volcano! All the volcanoes had robes of clouds till halfway down. We anchored off Tidore Island in a little bay just across the channel from Ternate. The depths went from 60m to 30m to 6m and we could see coral so we had a bit of a search around and ended up anchoring in 5m and went back to 8m. Always a bit hairy coming in where there is coral and it was around 4 in the afternoon, so hard to see. The scenery is absolutely gorgeous with jungle tree clad hills towering up to the volcanoes. It is a small bay but we have a mosque either side of us! After a 13 ½ hr day we fell into bed
<br>Miles: 79 TTT: 1,415
<br>
<br>Sun 16 Sept - Tidore
<br>How lovely not to have to go anywhere. The water is so clear so we snorkelled around and could see our anchor on a piece of coral and the chain around two bommies in front of us. Mostly it is just rubble with the odd bommy. We have minimal chain out as we don't want too much to wrap around. We actually tried to move off the bommy by pushing and kicking behind the boat but we probably made it worse. It was wonderful swimming around the boat in such clear water. The skipper fixed the wiring on the VHF which had got loose and we just worked on the boat. Anchoring is a little difficult around volcanic islands as it is either too deep or too close to land - or corally! We drove off the bommy then realised that it was holding us really well and now we were in danger of dragging. Around 2pm the skipper said it almost looks as if the volcano is erupting and a short time later he said it is erupting. A huge cloud of smoke like a big cumulus cloud went way up in the sky and came over our way and blanketed the sun. The city was also blanketed by what we took to be rain until it started falling on us and it was fine black sand. We heard a bit of a rumble. The boat was coated with this volcanic ash and was such a mess. The skipper snorkelled around until he found a clear space to drop the anchor in case we dragged and put a buoy on the spot. The crew said I think we are dragging, skipper - no we're good. Crew - I'm pretty sure we are dragging, skipper - no we're good but I'll have a snorkel to check. Back he comes saying we're dragging - I can see it moving back metre by metre and the boat was over the drop off. So we upanchored and went to the buoy and dropped in 5m again and held well. The ash had stopped falling by this stage though the mountain was still spewing a big black cloud. We got the deck wash pump out and sprayed the entire boat - dust was everywhere! The crew had intended to have another snorkel but by this stage is was 4.30 and the water was rather murky and then we realised of course it would be - its full of ash! The city must have been filthy. We think there is an extra knob on the mountain. Later in the evening we saw ribbons of phosphorescence floating past - really pretty. What a day!
<br>
<br>Mon 17 Sept - Tidore - Kajoa
<br>00 04.121S / 127 28.727E
<br>Woke up really early as there had been some grinding through the night but our little buoy let us know we were still in the right place. We have turned our clocks forward an hour so it gets light a lot later. We upanchored and retrieved our buoy at 6.15am and motored out getting a magnificent view of Ternate, the volcano and the city at its feet. We had about 2 knots of current with us as we rounded Tidore - such a beautiful Island. So green and jungly although they are also covered with coconut plantations and the people seem quite well off. There was a big town beneath the volcano of Tidore but this volcano had a green top! There is a magnificent building half way up the mountain which looks like a Chinese temple but is probably a mosque. All the islands have mosques. Makan Island with a few villages along its shore has at least twelve, with six of them being big and ornate. It was a lovely motor down on calm seas past all the beautiful picturesque volcanic islands all with little villages (with mosques) at their feet. All the volcanoes had their cloud top hats on. We anchored quite a way from the island of Kajoa in the SE corner behind a reef in 8 - 9m. We crossed the equator today at 2.37pm - we are now in the Southern Hemisphere! And the crew didn't throw the skipper overboard as she wasn't sure she could get him back! A surprisingly calm night with the phosphorescenc sparkling like little stars in the water. This was a highlight day for us with all the beautiful scenery.
<br>Miles: 53 TTT: 1,468
<br>
<br>Tues 18 Sept - Kajoa - Tg Rotan
<br>00 49.693S / 128 13.632E
<br>We left in the dark at 4.30am. Never a nice feeling when it is pitch dark and you cant see anything. We have just passed the equator and it is chilly. It got light around 6am. We motored in calm seas through Selat Patinti. We had land both sides of us and it was pretty except it was an overcast and hazy morning. We came out through the channel doing 10 knots - over 4 knots of current with us. The sea was then a bit confused with whirlpools etc. Made you feel if you fell in you would get dragged down! We saw a huge marlin leap out of the water four times - amazing. We motored along the edge of the large island of Halmahera which was picturesque with green jungle mountains interspersed with plantations of coconut palms. The palms were all along the foot of the mountains as were a few small villages. They didn't look quite as prosperous as yesterday but that could also be because they are more remote. The skipper hooked a barracuda but it got off just as he got it to the boat. A long day. When we anchored, we watched and heard schools of fish sounding all around us then we saw something huge going through the water, we don't believe it was a shark. The skipper threw his lure in which startled it and a huge tail came out as it dived. We are thinking something like a huge yellowfin tuna. A few fishermen went past and indicated that we should go and anchor off their village. We are just pleased to find 8m depth here. The skipper was a bit worried about the current and did anchor watch till 9.30pm but it was all good.
<br>Miles: 66 TTT: 1,534
<br>
<br>Wed 19 Sept - Tg Rotan - Tawa
<br>01 33.139S / 128 03.248E
<br>We had coffee in the early morning light listening to the birds chirping. Such a peaceful place. We left at 6am. The excitement this morning was the skipper saw a whale blow and then we saw it again and a little while later we saw a huge body break the surface as it dived and disappeared. It was a beautiful day with lovely calm seas as we crossed the Halmahera Sea. The crew played computer games to pass the time! The charts were still out so the crew stood at the bow to check for reef. We went over a couple of bommies but still had 7m. Found the channel and anchored in 9m at 2.10pm just off a bit of reef. We had been expecting white sand beaches and palm trees but it is more mangrovey with not a lot here! We need some heavy rain now to wash off the ash. The boat is filthy. A local motor boat went past and we asked about crocs and he said many. Had a peaceful night. A few locals went past in canoes and waved. The flies are really bad!
<br>Miles: 46 TTT: 1,580
<br>
<br>Thurs 20 Sept - Tawa
<br>A boat / rest day. The skipper did a service and oil change on the motor and scrubbed the decks.
<br>
<br>Fri 21 Sept - Tawa -Seram night crossing
<br>We left at 10.05am and followed our track out over the reef. There was a lovely white sand beach on the other side of the island but would probably have been a bit rolly. Passed the village at the end of the channel. It had a Christian Church and a rusty mosque. We hadn't been looking forward to this crossing and hadn't been sure what to expect. We got good wind straight away and were hoiking along under full sail up to 8 knots with the motor off. We didn't want to go that fast as we have to time our arrival in the morning. We had beam on sea and every now and then we would get a big one which would slew us around. We sailed with good wind until it got dark when we took the main sail down. We don't like to leave the cockpit after dark so best to bring it in, in case of squalls. Around 10pm the wind went on the nose and we motored through the night doing 4 - 5 knots which was good. The crew had put the MP3 player in a safe place and it was nowhere to be found so it was a very long night! It wasn't a terribly comfortable sea - it wasn't bad either - but neither of us slept. It was an uneventful trip which was just as well as the skipper admitted later that he had a very bad feeling about it! Glad its out of the way.
<br>Miles: 121 TTT: 1,701
<br>
<br>Well that bad feeling almost came to fruition on Saturday but we are happy to say that we are safely anchored in a very pretty, calm place and we and Pacific Express are fine! You will have to wait til next week to find out what happened!!! We will be staying here a couple of days.
<br>
<br>Love to everyone.
<br>Fair Winds and Calm Seas
<br>Dell and Peter
<br>
<br>----------
<br>radio email processed by SailMail
<br>for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com">http://www.sailmail.com</a>Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-90691332996024762362012-09-15T20:21:00.000+10:002012-09-15T20:25:41.128+10:00LWH - Week 10: - Perttimat - Tifore IslandSat 8 Sept - Perttimat
<br>We woke at 1.30am and could see a huge camp fire on the beach and bits of ash floating up on the hill. Two fishermen visited early in the morning and they said they had been cooking their dinner! The skipper gave them some fishing line and hooks and showed them how to tie the hooks. They left very happy. We reanchored as we had drifted around into 20 metres. Rubicon Star (Ruby) was the first of the fleet to come in and we were soon surrounded by seven boats. Ruby visited and Tim said he would have a go at welding our steel so the skipper went over to Ruby. As it turned out Tim's genny couldn't manage the welding but he cut the steel into the right shape so that was helpful. We went for a snorkel and saw lots of lovely soft corals and small fish. The crew saw a black and yellow square striped fish which we hav e never seen before and also a large pinkish starfish. And lots of nemos - the skipper saw one with a blue band on it. So it was a successful snorkel. We went ashore at 5pm with everyone for sundowners. It rained but we sat under a big tree. A lovely evening.
<br>
<br>Sun 9 Sept - Perttimat
<br>One more boat came in today to join the Sail Moratai rally boats. We did some computer work and went exploring in Bob and found the Jungle Resort around the next bay but it was too reefy to get ashore. We all went ashore when Tim and Jim started a huge fire for a barbeque and a really good night.
<br>
<br>Mon 10 Sept - Perttimat - Bitung
<br>01 26.952N / 125 12.674E
<br>The fleet started leaving at 5.30am. We thought they may have been in for a windy trip. We upanchored at 7am and headed around the headland towards the Lembah Channel to Bitung. We had a good sail with headsail out but then it went on the nose and was horribly windy. Luckily we had a bit of current with us but it seemed a hard slog. We came into a very busy port and anchored near a lot of very colourful fishing boats and a couple of big ships. Anchored at 10.35 in 9m. All the fishing boats going past wave and give us the thumbs up. We spent the rest of the day sitting on board as it was just too windy to launch Bob. We can see a lot of welding going on in the ship building yards so that is encouraging. Also can see a couple of volcanoes.
<br>Miles: 19 TTT: 1,264
<br>
<br>Tues 11 Sept - Bitung
<br>Happy Birthday Jackson
<br>We went ashore early and got a motor bike ride to Immigration but it was the wrong one so we walked to the Port and Immigration was closed so we started with Quarantine. They weren't real sure what to do with us but when they saw our CAIT they wrote us out two lovely certificates which are nice enough to hang on the wall at home! We went to Customs and the other yacht, Escapades, which had anchored next to us was there so they bundled us all into the back of a covered ute and took us to our boats. One Customs officer was a lovely lady with long trousers and lovely shoes and we wondered how to get her into Bob without wading in the filthy water. So the skipper brought Bob around to the stern of a fishing boat and we clambered across two boats and lowered her into Bob. The skipper took them to our boat where they had a lovely time taking photos, looking at our family photos and enjoying themselves. After they had looked at both boats they drove us back and we went to Immigration. They didn't understand the visa thing so one of them took the skipper on the back of a motor bike to the first Immigration and they worked out we have 60 days from today so they came back and they stamped us in. The crew got chatting to an Indonesian man meanwhile who wanted to change our money to rupiah so we changed the rest of our Malaysian Ringetts to rupiah. Then we went to the Harbour Master who wanted two copies of the Immigration stamped crew list and told us to come back at 1pm. Immigration wouldn't give us another one so we got a photocopy. Then looked around town for a bit and had a lovely lunch. We went back to the Harbour Master but unfortunately Escapades was there also. We don't know if it had anything to do with it but it took them two hours to produce our port clearance. We checked in / checked out so are supposed to leave within 24 hrs. We are hoping they wont notice we are still here!! We caught a minibus back and went over to where they were welding a big ship and organised to get our welding done at 8am tomorrow. A quiet night on board.
<br>
<br>Wed 12 Sept - Bitung
<br>The skipper pulled the 'mesin knalpot' (exhaust water lock box) out and took it across to the big ship boys to get it welded. They had almost finished when the Korean foreman told him to get lost so he came back to the boat to await a signal from the boys to say it was ready. The boys took it to the little beach next door and called the skipper in. We had supplied the steel, stainless weld etc and the boys had supplied the labour and expertise. The skipper gave them 100,000 rupiah ($10) and they were really pleased. So was the skipper as the job was so expertly done he reckons we will get another twenty years out of it! The skipper then did the diesel run - two trips 200 litres - and everyone was very keen to help. In the afternoon we went for a walk. We were weaving in between the fishing boats under really disgustingly filthy lines and leaving Bob next to a wall near all the boats. The fishermen kept an eye on Bob and if he needed moving they would move him. We felt completely safe. We walked down the street and off to the left we noticed a bit of a market so walked through and bought our veggies. We asked where we could get fruit and the lady pulled her phone out and dialled up her daughter who spoke English and next thing we were sat down to await the arrival of the daughter, Yathi. Then Yathi was there saying what do you want, where do you want to go, I will take you on my bike. Write down what you want and my father will go and get it. She was in the Navy. They are so kind. We explained we needed to buy fruit for one days time, three days time etc. They are all amazed at what we are doing. We declined their very kind offer and a man who could speak English attached himself to us. He was loud and possibly had been drinking and we didn't care too much for him. We walked up to the rumah makan (basic restaurant) we had seen earlier and chose our meal. Unfortunately he came in too and didn't shut up the whole time. We would very much have liked to talk to the three lovely ladies there (two of them young) but he dominated. One of the young girls did have English and the older lady got annoyed with him too. As she said we learn from each other and this bloke spoiled the opportunity. One of his mates stopped him further up the road and thank goodness we lost him! Back to the boat watching this fascinating busy port. Fishing boats raft up to each other and when the inside one needs to get out they just all manoeuvre all over the place. Great skill and really amazing. And all so colourful. They all wave and yell in greeting when they go past.
<br>
<br>Thurs 13 Sept - Bitung
<br>We went to shore early and were about to get in a taxi when the guard on the gate told us it was walking distance so we walked to the big market. We found heaps of fruit and veg. The crew let the skipper do the meat section on his own and when she went looking for him later people were pointing the direction he went. So I was never going to lose him!! So funny - we were the only farangs in the place. We caught a taxi back and then the skipper did a water run to buy drinking water. The guard stopped a ute and got him to cart our jerries down to Bob. We then went to town for some last minute shopping and found a few cartons of Bintang cans of beer. But here they are $30 a carton! Caught a taxi (its a minibus but when we get in they don't pick up any other customers!) and stopped at our makan place and got some takeaway (the best chilli tofu ever!) and the skipper spoke English to the young girl and she was very happy. We walked back to Bob and manoeuvred our way past the disgusting lines and big fishing boats with a bit of a cheer from the guys on the shore and went back to the boat to prepare to leave tomorrow. The gribs are saying a good day to go. We have to say that the people of Sulawesi have been fantastic. They couldn't do enough for us and were so kind and helpful and we will cherish the friendship they have shown us.
<br>
<br>Fri 14 Sept - Bigung - Tifore Island
<br>00 58.077N / 126 09.489E
<br>Happy Birthday Greg
<br>We left as soon as we could see which turned out to be around 5.30am and motored past the port and all the big ships in the Lembah Strait and headed out into the Molucca Sea. We had good breeze - around 15 knots and the seas were 1 - 1 ½ metres. We had a great sail day (no motor!!!) doing around 7.3 knots. A pod of large dolphins (bottle nose I think) came and swam with the boat and the crew perched at the front and watched them play with the boat for around half an hour - magic! We arrived at Tifore Island at 4.45pm and were a bit worried as it seemed to be coral but the skipper checked and it was rubbly so we took a risk and dropped the anchor. A couple of villagers came out to see us just on dark but we told them it was too late to visit - felt a bit bad as they had got all dressed up but it really was too late. This island is in the middle of nowhere.
<br>We forgot to mention that as we passed Bunekin Island last week we saw some fishermen flying small kites behind them. We have no idea whether this was to help catch the fish or how it could possibly work but it was interesting. Also for those of you who shared our puzzle of the loss of all navigation in the Celebes Sea Triangle, Debbie offered this explanation: "magnetic anomalies found in this basin (the Celebes Sea Basin - with a flat sea floor and depths of 4 - 5km) have been interpreted as episodes of sea-floor spreading. Seafloor spreading is a process that occurs at mid-ocean ridges, where new oceanic crust is formed through volcanic activity and then gradually moves away from the ridge. Seafloor spreading helps explain continental drift in the theory of plate tectonics." So we sailed over a place where new bits of the world were being formed and moving the continents around! Thanks Deb.
<br>We continue our long journey home and send you all our love. See so many Rosies in the big cumulus clouds around us.
<br>
<br>Fair Winds and Calm Seas
<br>Dell and Peter
<br>
<br>----------
<br>radio email processed by SailMail
<br>for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com">http://www.sailmail.com</a>Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-84408423186914681172012-09-09T14:46:00.000+10:002012-09-09T16:11:46.054+10:00LWH - Week 9 : Lokadada Bay - PertiimatSat 1 Sept Lokadada Bay - Tringgaula
<br>01 01.770N / 122 12.245E
<br>We had a very comfortable night. Fishermen waved but no-one came near us. We were on our way again by 6am. Our village appeared to be Christian with the village across the bay being Muslim. When we left it was really lumpy with quite a swell and then it dropped off and the water started dancing (I don't know how else to describe it). We made our exit better than our entrance staying closer to port on the way out. It is disconcerting going over land on the chart - the charts seem to be out by about half a mile. The coastline of Sulawesi is absolutely beautiful. Mountains to the sea and green with clouds sitting on top of the mountains. It would be fascinating to drive around this large strange shaped island. We had dead calm sea and then it was bucking up and we realised we were going down the 200m depth change line so we went further out and the seas were better. We came into the bay and the depth sounder stopped working. We were heading for Wavesweeper's anchor from last year and anchored just short of there at 2.15pm in 15m off a sand beach with two villages. It was an extremely pretty spot and was very comfortable. We watched late in the afternoon as a line of villagers held the rope of a net and a boat took it 500 metres or so to another line of villagers on the beach and they took the other end. Then they pulled like a tug of war, with the lines getting closer as they pulled the net in until they made a circle and got their catch. They must have got enough because they didn't do it the next day. These villages are real communities. They do things together, and look out for each other.
<br>Miles: 41 TTT: 1021
<br>
<br>Sunday 2 Sept - Tringulla
<br>01 01.684N / 122 12.267E
<br>We left at 6am but as we got out the wind came up blowing 25 - 30 knots so we decided to return to the anchorage and reanchored at 6.45am. Around 9am three boys paddled out in their canoe and came aboard for a chat and to invite us to their village. Andika was 16 his brother Mesi 13 and friend Deeka 13. We told them we would come in at 11 or 12 for a walk. They took our phone number and phoned a few times to make sure we were coming in. We saw a boat taking in a torpedo buoy and were shocked at the size of the thing. They are like min subs. Saw some old ones on the beach. They would be around a metre across and four metres long - huge and steel! We went in at 11.30 and a heap of children met us and pulled Bob up the beach. We walked down the street and saw Andika's house and the school and mosque. The school is a mixed school with Muslim and Christian. That seemed a good idea to us! Everyone greeted us and waved and wanted photos and the boys were proud to be walking us around. We went to a lady's house and sat and chatted surrounded by all the children. When we realised that the barefooted kids were burning their feet on the bitumen we headed for the beach. We saw wells outside some of the houses. We stopped at Andika and Mesi's house and met their mother. They had a patch of lovely grass before the beach and had sat out two chairs like royalty! We sat down and because they had seemed so disappointed when we declined a drink we said ok to a glass of water and two glasses and a plastic jug on a tray appeared to pour the water. Grandfather turned up and traded one of his rolly cigs for the skipper's so we sat him next to the skipper on the chair. He had his traditional wrap around skirt on with bare chest and was a skinny little man. I wanted to take his photo but he wouldn't have his photo taken bare chested so he disappeared and about ten minutes later came back in shorts and a t-shirt - wasn't quit the effect I wanted! Then we walked to the end of the beach surrounded by at least 30 kids. They called us Papa and Mama. Papa ended up carrying Andika's (rather grubby by this stage) three year old brother Okkie as we must have walked a couple of km up the beach and back. Papa kept stopping and drawing pictures in the sand to illustrate things to the kids. The girls stayed with me and one must have had a cold as she kept spitting - most disconcerting! They don't blow their noses - they spit. When we got back to Bob all the kids launched him and Mesi jumped in and we went back to the boat around 2.15. Andika and Deeka rowed out. We had said we could have the three boys on board and thats all. They had biccies and juice and learnt how the boat worked. They wanted DJ music but I think we were a bit of a disappointment in that department! Anyway they had a lovely afternoon and we sent them off around 4pm. Around 5pm just as we were relaxing a man and lady with four kids (not theirs) came out and had a look over the boat. The lady videoed the whole of the inside. One of the little girls jumped in the water and the other little one wasn't quite game and was saying kechil, then she perched up in the canoe and looked quite relieved - I then realised - rumah kechil - little room - toilet! Anyway we politely said goodbye so they all left happily and just on dark the three boys came out with one of the girls and little Ockie. They had been and picked us some limes because ours didn't look too good. We were going to give them some powdered mild for Ockie as we were quite shocked to find he had sugared water in his bottle but weren't sure if it would be halal and they don't seem to drink milk. Explains some of the terrible teeth we saw at Laulalang. After ¾ of an hour we told them it was time to go and off they went.
<br>Miles: 3 TTT: 1024
<br>
<br>Monday 3 Sept - Tringulla - Bulontio
<br>00 59.616N / 122 25.040E
<br>We left at 5am in the dark as our next destination has reef so we wanted to get there early.
<br>We motored, dodged a few logs and went over some of the depth lines where the water was dancing and then choppy so we went further out. It is such a strange phenomenon. A fisherman went past and held up the tail of a tuna he had caught - it would have been two feet across. The skipper checked the bilge and it had salt water in it. Started the bilge pump and headed for land. We came into a bay and anchored off the beach in 14m. Three men immediately came out and sat on the boat - one had quite good English. The skipper chatted for an hour and then sent them off while he pulled out the exhaust water lock box and repaired it again. In the afternoon four men came out and sat on the boat - they always smoke and of course the skipper does not discourage them. He really enjoys explaining to them and drawing pictures of how the boat works. I just kept reading my book. The skipper asked about getting steel and getting it welded and they said yes could get. They left and we had a quiet night.
<br>Miles: 19 TTT: 1043
<br>
<br>Tues 4 Sept - Bulontio - Tg Besar
<br>00 56.198N / 123 01.430E
<br>The skipper went into the village which turned out to be quite a big town and one of the men met him and borrowed a motor bike and took him to five places before he found some steel. The skipper didn't like the look of the welding so bought the steel back in the boat. Meanwhile at 8am I was visited by the man who could speak English, two women and three kids - at 8am! By the time the skipper got back a few men had jumped on board so we decided to leave. Shooed them all off, pulled up anchor and left at 9am. We came out 8 miles in front of the Moratai rally mob comprising of five boats. We were motoring along beautifully when we got hit by wind and the seas came up. The phenomenon seems to be on the lines of changes of depth and throw in some wind against tide and it can get really rough. We were getting water over the bow, the cushions nearly got washed off and we were sailing at 8.2knots and really heeling over (the crew really hates that!!). We went further out and the seas calmed a bit and we made very good time. As soon as we got behind the headland it was really calm and smooth water. We motored into the beach and dropped anchor in 7m at 3.40pm. The others came in 1 - 2 hours later. Rubicon Star stopped by in their dinghy to say hullo. It was a very calm night.
<br>Miles: 41 TTT: 1084
<br>
<br>Wed 5 Sept - Tg Besar - Pulau Tiga
<br>00 50.651N / 123 50.208E
<br>We left with the fleet at 6am - we were villaged out and it wasn't as pretty as the other bays and motor sailed. Saw a huge school of very small dolphins - hundreds of them but they are very shy. A long day of motor sailing anchoring off a beach down from an interesting looking village with a large mosque. One of the boats had a canoe visit them but none of us did. We all then went to Rubicon Star for drinks and a chat.
<br>Miles: 53 TTT: 1137
<br>
<br>Thurs 6 Sept - Pulau Tiga - TG Kalasei
<br>00 50.672N / 123 50.187E
<br>We left at 5.40am with the fleet. We had a great sail for a few hours which was really good. It was a long hot boring day. The two big cats decided to keep going another 7 miles to Menado as we could see it in the distance. Jemima was in there and said about six boats could fit in - it is very deep in there. We came into where we were going to anchor with three other boats and we dropped the anchor. The other three thought we were over reef and decided to keep going. We had a lovely anchorage off a small village and watched the loveliest sunset over the flat ocean. We have heard about the green flash when the sun goes down - we didn't see a flash but the sun definitely turned green just as it disappeared into the ocean. Not sure if thats what people talk about or not. We had a lovely calm night.
<br>Miles: 67 TTT" 1204
<br>
<br>Friday 7 Sept - TG Kalawsai - Pertiipat
<br>01 46.909N / 125 09.384E
<br>We upanchored at 6.45am and decided to give Menado a miss and headed for Gangga Island. We passed some interesting fishing structures with huge lights to attract squid (we presume) - we haven't seem then before but could see all the lights last night. We motor sailed past a volcano on the port side and Monado also has a volcano behind it but it was very hazy and smoggy. Would be quite a dramatic sight otherwise. We had almost three knots of current with us so we made very good time. We passed Bunekin Island which had the biggest Cathedral on it - it is mostly Christian around this area. Cannot imagine that they would have a congregation big enough to fill it but it looked very impressive. We have noticed quite a few churches in the towns we have passed. We had flat seas, great current and good wind so it was all good. We went around Gangga Island and it was all very pretty on the islands with reef and white sand beaches but also very deep. A yacht called Delight called us up as they had come from the Moluccas and we were the first yacht they had seen. We swapped some information and we came round the island and couldn't find anywhere good to anchor. The place we wanted to anchor and had good depths was all coral so we went round and anchored off Gangga Island where Delight was and it was very pretty but we felt very exposed there and the clouds were building so decided to go another seven miles across to the NEw tip of Sulawesi. We had good currents with us and anchored in the most beautiful bay. The water was clear but dark then the most beautiful shade of green. We went ashore to the resort and had a look through but it was deserted and not in use. We walked down to a European couple on the beach who turned out to be Swiss and had walked over from the jungle resort around the next bay. Other than them we were the only ones there. Had a swim and took Bob for a bit of a look around and went back to the boat in the rain. A lovely day.
<br>Miles: 41 TTT: 1245
<br>
<br>We are currently surrounded by eight boats who head to Moratai tomorrow for the rally and we head 26 miles around the corner to Bitung to check into the country and hopefully get some welding done.
<br>
<br>Have a happy holiday Ruth. Stay safe all
<br>Fair Winds and Calm Seas
<br>Dell and Peter
<br>
<br>----------
<br>radio email processed by SailMail
<br>for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com">http://www.sailmail.com</a>Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420358224130851671.post-8848050593702245832012-09-02T12:25:00.000+10:002012-09-02T22:05:42.798+10:00LWH - Week 8 : Tawau - Lokadada BaySat 25 August Tawau - Pulau Bunyu
<br>03 30.985N / 117 51.522E
<br>We could smell the town this morning - its like a burnt molasses kind of smell. All the big cats and monos left at sparrows probably to try to make it through to Tarakan in one day. We left at 6.30am and motored out. It was a long day of motoring. We had current with us for a time then it turned against us. When we turned the point to come into the anchorage we had some good wind and got in at 5.30pm. We just anchored off the beach with around nine other boats but at 12.30am we went side on to the swell and had a very rolly night.
<br>37 years today since Dad died -s till miss him.
<br>Miles: 51 TTT: 697
<br>
<br>Sun 26 August - Palau Bunya - day/night 1 Celebes Sea crossing
<br>Happy Birthday Mum - would have been 88 today
<br>We left at 6.30am just after most of the others. It was overcast and rainy and we were unsure whether to go or not but it was not tenable to stay at the anchorage so the skipper checked the grib (weather) files again (which we do over the HF radio) and it looked ok so we decided to go. We had a bit of water in the bilge (oh no!) but it was fresh water so we figured a bit sloshed out of the tank with all the rolling. We are very sad that we are doing this crossing on our own but at last it feels like we are heading home. We have tried to go a bit further south than the people last year to miss all the large torpedo buoys which we know are there (used for fishing boats to tie up on and in extremely deep water). Of course we don't know if there are any further south. They do show up on radar. Already we are dodging a few nets between flags and fishing boats. The rain stopped around 9.30 but we are motoring with no wind and the seas are fairly flat. Saw a school of dolphins but they are very shy of the boat. The sky cleared and it turned into the most beautiful day. About six miles to our starboard we can see marked on the chart a square which says 'explosives dumping area' in over 2km of water. We presume it is from the Second World War. We zigzagged through a current line which had nipah palms and logs and other natural rubbish. Sat at the pointy end of the boat late in the afternoon. It was a beautiful day with flat seas and nothing for miles. The depth of the water is 2 - 3 km. We went into the night with the moon up which gave some visibility. We passed the known torpedo buoys 25km to the south and didn't see any (that is of course no guarantee that they are not there but we are pretty sure not). We checked the radar every ten minutes scanning - saw a couple of tugs but nothing else. We both got some shut eye down below (took it in turns) but the crew accidentally knocked the accelerator and nothing brings a skipper up faster than the change in the engine tone!! We used the new mp3 player for the first time and it was amazing how much more quickly that made the time pass. We lost the moon at 2am and it was pretty dark after that but we didn't hit anything (that we know of) and had a good night.
<br>
<br>Mon 27 August - Celebes crossing day/night 2
<br>I awoke to the skipper dodging big cargo ships as we crossed an enormous shipping channel. We turned the motor off at 10am and sailed off course. We have had to be going really slow as we don't want to arrive at our destination in the dark. We sailed till 1.30pm when we found ourselves off course and just sitting in the doldrums! We started the motor and slowly headed back on course. The sea is very calm and we took turns catching up on some sleep. Saw something in the water and couldn't make it out and thought it was something in the current line so went twenty degrees to port then we thought it was a heap of dolphins playing. Turned out to be a tree trunk a s long as our boat! Then we saw something leap out of the water and it was a manta ray and then we could see small dolphins and rays jumping and playing then five dolphins came and swam at the front of the boat The water was so crystal clear we could see them perfectly. A magic moment. We have seen quite a few big pieces of wood floating around and the water has been so calm so we have been able to see them which isn't the case at night. And wood does not show up on the radar - 4,100m deep! Well there we were in the evening both sitting on the deck about to watch the sun go down motoring along in the calmest conditions when a terrifying thing happened. The autohelm took a sharp turn to the left - we corrected it and it took another sharp turn and the chart plotter turned and told us we were going back the way we ha d come. We knew this wasn't the case because we had had the sun at our backs and it was just going below the horizon. The chart plotter came back the right way for a minute and we put the autohelm back on then it took such a sharp turn left that the arm went all the way in. The compass reversed by 180 degrees and was telling the auto pilot to do the same. Our heading was 140 degrees but the compass suddenly changed to 320 degrees, so did the GPS heading on the chart plotter. The crew took the helm while the skipper got the handheld GPS. It also went nuts and told us we were at ten degrees north (thats the Philippines!!!). The compass for the autopilot is independent from the chart plotter but the Chart plotter also shows us going 180 degrees in the wrong direction. We put the computer on with C-map - backup number 2- but the GPS wouldn't work. By this time the crew is steering by the moon. The skipper reset our chart plotter but still it showed us going in the wrong direction. We are in the middle of the ocean and thank goodness we could still see a bit of red where the sun went down. This went on for about half an hour when suddenly the chart plotter corrected, C-map started working and it all looked good. We put the autohelm back on and it worked. We had been just coming up on the 4,000m depth contour line from 4800 m and just about to go from two degrees into the one degrees latitude (before 01?59.098N / 120?07.206E) when it happened. We didn't know if the satellites had been turned off, there had been another earthquake in Sulawesi or we had found the Bermuda Triangle of the Celebes Sea. We suspect the latter but if any of you out there have any logical explanation we would love to hear from you!!! At about this time we picked up a little (we suspect rather large) friend under the boat. The depth sounder doesn't show depths like 4km but it regularly showed depths ranging from 9m - 1.2m which meant there was something under there. It wasn't a dolphin - we suspect a shark. It stayed with us all night until we came to 20m and then he left us. We motored through the night at 3.5 knots (we had 1.5 of current with us) for two reasons - 1 - we did not wish to hit anything at speed and 2 - we did not want to get in too early as we knew we had to negotiate reef. The moon went behind clouds at about 3am and it was very dark and we could see lightning in the distance and storms began showing up on the radar. It rained about 4am but we had no lightning and the seas remained calm. A perfect crossing really except for our Bermuda Triangle moment!!!
<br>Miles: 236 TTT: 933
<br>
<br>Tues 28 August - Tanjung Laulalang
<br>01 19.649N / 120 55.341E
<br>Three years today since we lost our little Maties dog Jack
<br>It was a little bit overcast but we sighted land at daybreak - thank goodness - a lingering doubt about the chart plotter - and we zigzagged through the reef around 10.45am using Mark 1 eyeball as the charts were out by about half to three quarters of a mile (C-map and Navionics) and came into anchor where the guys from last year had in the most gorgeous scenic little bay behind a sandspit between a Muslim village and Christian village. We anchored at 11.15am and were so happy to be here. A Muslim man was trying to get us to anchor a bit further in but we were close enough. We dropped in 22m but later when we swang towards the beach we were in 15.5m. We are just off the Muslim village and the Christian village is across the small bay. A Muslim man swam out to visit us and a Christian man turned up in his boat. Think he wanted us to go and anchor off his village! Maman (the Muslim) who only had jocks on sat in ULewis' (the Christian man) boat pointing at Ulewis and making actions like opening a can and drinking it and being drunk - he was really funny. ULewis told us Maman was mute. ULewis was very curious and wanted to see over the boat. We told them we would visit both their villages tomorrow and they left and we fell into bed for a couple of hours. Got up around 5 and four Muslim men came to visit and have a chat. The skipper is getting better at communicating and had English-Indo and Indo-English dictionaries handy. They wanted our lure as they cant get them here so the skipper showed them how to make one using silver paper or an empty wine bladder which we rinsed out for them - told them it had had water in it - they knew it hadn't! Gave them some fishing lines and hooks and they were very curious as to the technology on the boat and amazed that it is just the two of us. One of the daughters came out and wanted bread but we said we didn't have any. They left on dark and we had a restful evening and then the best sleep.
<br>
<br>Wed 29 August - Tg Laulalong
<br>We went ashore at 10am and were met by a few people including Umbra who was really excited to know that we know Bernie off Single Malt who came through here last year. She invited us into her home which had no furniture in the lounge room. We took some photos of her baby daughter Apeecka and they presented us with some mangoes. Its mango season! Maman then escorted us around the village. The village has 500 people as does the Christian village across the way. It has an Elementary School and a High School and hospital. Some of the houses look poor but we don't really think its a poor village. Everyone greeted us as we went round and offered us mangoes! They all wanted their photos taken with us and one man in uniform chased us down - just to have his photo taken with us! The nurses came and the schoolmaster came as we walked around to have photos taken. Maman found us a store where we got a sim card for the phone. We got back to Umbra's around lunchtime, collected our mangoes and went back to the boat. Maman (being mute is the best mime!) and his friend Udin came out and spent the afternoon. They are both divorced. I made some muffins while the skipper spent his time talking to Udin and Maman. I pretty much burnt the first batch of muffins so made another lot. During the afternoon the Christian kids came aboard quite out of control - the boys running up the boat and he girls standing at the back making a huge racket - it was all a bit much so the skipper got rid of them. I was working on the computer printing off the photos and looked up and there was one still onboard!!! We put five muffins on four plates and took them in for Seir (the young lady who wanted bread), Umbra, Maman and Udin. Seir and Umbra took theirs home while Maman and Udin shared theirs with all the people who had been waiting to greet us. One woman asked if they were halal. I hadn't even thought about cakes and muffins being halal!!! Thought that was just meat! Anyway they really appreciated it. We also gave Umbra a large photo of her baby. We had thought we were going to watch them play soccer with Maman but no one was moving and it was threatening rain so we went back to the boat. We had dinner and were relaxing when about 7.30 a canoe turned up in the dark. It was Seir (25 & married and wears a scarf) and Adrea and Idha (two sisters aged 21 and 26). So they came on board and we sat below chatting for quite some time and they were really fun. Ahdria and Eda had a little bit of English. When it was time for them to leave Seir realised her oar had been knocked overboard (probably by Bob) and was lost. So funny! So we lent them an oar to get home. Quite a day!!
<br>
<br>Thursday 30 August - Tj Laulalang
<br>We watched the Christian kids paddle their canoes across to the sandspit at 7am to go to school. Umbra had asked to see the boat so the skipper went to pick her and a friend up at ten and I had made some orange juice to give them. But at 9.30 Seir and Idha turned up to return the oar and bought an obnoxious young man with them - a 21 year old medical student who spoke very good English. The girls amused themselves taking photos of themselves in my hat and sunglasses at the front of the boat while the lad says i'm hungry, do you have a snack. Where's the chocolate where's the cake - make some more, Can I see your photos and before I know it he's in my computer. Then he wanted to urinate! The skipper went to collect Umbra and came back with three women, two babies and Maman. Well, way too many people now for my small bottle of juice so they got nothing. The ladies all looked over the boat and the lad was a king size pain in the butt taking photos everywhere, taking over the conversation and generally ruining the day - it was all about him!!! The skipper took two trips to take them all ashore. We had a brief respite then went ashore and Udin and another bloke took us on the back of their motor bikes to a rumah makin (restaurant). It was very basic. A cat was on the table, the flies were in the rice and another cat was getting a fish bone from the dishes waiting to be washed. Udin chose some fish for us and we went outside to the lounging chair (wooden construction) and the skipper had a conversation with another chap. They are all mightily impressed with what we are doing. They called us when lunch was ready and the fish was delicious served up with soup and rice. Udin then took us to see the lobster farm but it was locked so we sat and talked to some students for a while. These people have seven fish farms - some fish, some lobster which they export to Korea. The surrounding hills are filled with cloves trees and there are cloves laid out drying all through the village - smells wonderful. When we went back we were invited to Ihda and Adrea's house and the lad was there to interpret. We were given a green coconut each to drink - no one else had one as they had just eaten - bit embarrassing. Anyway the whole family and friends were there and lots of photos and being interviewed by the lad. After that one of the fathers wanted to come to the boat so Maman came too. The ladies came down to say goodbye and off we went. After the skipper took the father ashore with a new pair of reading glasses he had asked for, three Christian boys turned up and dropped one off on the back of the boat and went ashore. The skipper promptly put him in Bob and took him ashore too. They returned shortly after and we told them to go away so they went to the front of the boat and climbed up the anchor chain and boarded. The skipper explained to them that this was our home. They sank their boat and mucked about -they told the next boatload of kids to go away and we gave them a packet of chips each (empty packets chucked in the water) then off they went. The skipper went and picked Udin up and we were having a farewell drink when another mate turned up, accompanied by the lad!!!! Who says he has just brought some friends to visit!. They stayed a while and looked the boat over. They left and just on dark the skipper took Maman and Udin ashore and we put Bob aboard. We really enjoyed the company of Maman and Udin - they are both fishermen. The torpedo buoys we had heard so much about and luckily didn't see are used by them to go out to fish for the big yellowfin tuna which they export to Korea. So at 7.30 just as we are relaxing out comes one of the earlier visitor with two women and six kids who were all really cold. They stayed for about half an hour and it really was time to leave!!!!! And we didn't make it to the Christian village!!!
<br>
<br>Friday 31 August - Tj Laulalang - Lokodaka Bay
<br>01 02.919N / 121 39.313E
<br>We left at 6am and the skipper blew the horn to let Maman and Udin know that we were leaving and followed our track out. When we came out our friend was waiting and appeared under the boat again. We thought maybe he was a remora thinking we were a whale!! But he did not stay long. We saw dolphins as we were leaving. We had a beautiful morning and Sulawesi is so pretty. We came around the point and looked back and we couldn't see it as it was covered in rain! We had a storm pass in front and a storm pass behind and it was very overcast and windy and cold - so close to the equator! We were coming into an anchorage given by MV Solita trying to beat the rain. The chart was out - we were coming over land by the chart and then it went from 50m to 8m so we went further to starboard. Kind of scary as we couldnt see the bay and it t looked like we were heading into land. Came into the bay in very strong winds and there was a village and a jetty and we hit 5.6m and shallowing - crew panicking! And the depth sounder stops working!! But we eventually managed to anchor in 16m going back to 14m just off some cottages built over the water. There were three little girls on their verandah singing and doing a welcome dance -s o sweet!! Two boys went past rowing a canoe then came back towing some huge sticks of bamboo. The fishermen waved but no one has visited. Still cloudy and slight swell but a beautiful spot.
<br>
<br>I am sorry this missive is so long but it really has been quite a week.
<br>
<br>Love to you all. Take care
<br>Calm Seas and Fair Winds
<br>Dell and Peter
<br>
<br>----------
<br>radio email processed by SailMail
<br>for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com">http://www.sailmail.com</a>Dell and Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08891444310276703293noreply@blogger.com