Left at 8am with a very light wind and had a beautiful slow sail. Were quite close to land and we weren't in a hurry. The sun was shining, the sea was flat and it was so peaceful. Passed a few houses on the way (we were told these were people who didn't want to live in the settlement). Saw a Telstra tower and finally at 2.30 came into Galinwin'ku, an Aboriginal community, and anchored in the bay. There were children playing on the beach and one little boy spearing a fish. A huge cry of delight went up when he got one! Dogs running around and later in the evening three children started lighting fires along the beach. We couldn't decide if there was a purpose to it or if they were just little pyromaniacs! Everywhere they went little fires would erupt - they all went out eventually. There were four tyres on the beach which looked awfully like they were still attached to an upside down 4 wheel drive. The sea was like glass and the sunset was beautiful.
Miles 25 Total 1,098
Day 53 - Monday 15 June - Galiwin'ku
We weren't real sure about the permit thing for visiting Aboriginal communities so James and Sandra (Cilentro) picked us all up in their tender and we all went to shore about 10am. We met one of the officials from (TBA) who said we didn't need a permit and pointed us in the way of the gallery. The door was open but it said it didn't open until 1.00pm. However Dion (a Melbournite) welcomed us and said we could look around while they continued their meeting. Dion was employed by the Cwlth Govt and worked for (TBA). They had 125 Aboriginal artists who all made a living from their art. There were 60 white workers and Galiwin'ku had 1,500 people which ranged up to 2,200 in the wet. The artists negotiate a price with the gallery (and the artists have to be happy with it) and get paid up front. The gallery then add its mark up. All the profits from the gallery go back to (TBA) which then goes back to the community paying for the weekly barge (fresh food from Darwin), health facilities, mechanic etc. If artists don't wish to come into town Dion flies to the homelands and visits them in their areas. The art was amazing. The lines and dots so meticulously done and we wondered how they did it without smudging and also without glasses!!! Beautiful and some of the artists are known around the world and have showings around our capital cities. Prices seemed to range from $20 for a necklace to $6,600 for a large bark painting. We then walked to the store and bought some fresh produce at very reasonable prices. Except for our ice creams which were $5 each!! A building which we presumed was the bank had a sign saying Money Business.
Day 54 - Tuesday 16 June - Galinwin'ku to Cape Stewart - Happy Birthday Suzanne
We got away at 6.45am and had a lovely sail on flat seas for the first five hours. Then we had to go past the shoals near the Crocodile Isles and we lost the wind and had the current against us and motored for a while and then had a very slow sail into Cape Stewart. A lot of the sea around here is either "Inadequately surveyed" or "not surveyed" which doesn't fill you with confidence!!!! We were lucky with Cape Stewart as it tends to be swelly in a wind but the wind dropped off and it was very slightly rocky but fine - quite comfortable.
Miles: 55 Total 1,963
Day 55 - Wednesday 17 June - Cape Stewart to Entrance Island, Liverpool River, Maningrita
Left at 7.45 and motored around False Cape which were rocks sticking way out in the bay. Got a good sail doing over 7 knots with seas building a bit so had to reduce sail. Lots of horrible tipping though!!! Arrived at Entrance Island which is at the entrance to the Liverpool River at the Aboriginal settlement of Maningrita at 2.30 An official looking boat came racing out and the Aboriginal officers on board photographed all our yachts then waved and left. We elected not to go into Manigrita as we had heard you needed permits and also it would take an hour to get in and an hour to get out. The anchorage turned out to be quite rolly so not so comfortable.
Miles 35 Total 1,998
Day 56 - Thursday 18 June - Entrance Island to King River
Departed at 6.30 with a reef in the sail and headed up around Cuthbert Point which was a very uncomfortable sail with confused seas. Once around the Point the seas settled and we had a nice breeze and nice sail. The Aborigines, we have been told, burn off in the dry season and the horizon was full of smoke and ash falling on us even though we were more than 5 miles off the coast.. Cilantro and Escape disappeared like ghost ships into the smoke. Finally lost the wind and motored the last little bit and got out of the smoke. Came through the King River entrance with a clearance at mid tide of 4.3m and came straight up the middle of the river. Once in, the right side had deeper water than the left. We headed for the point on the right with the mangroves and stayed about 50m off. Cilentro and Escape anchored in the middle of the river. We anchored quite close in (5.2m) and a crocodile came out to meet us within 20m of the boat. A croc fight erupted a bit further down and the croc moved like streaked lightning. Had no idea a croc could move that fast! A big one came to the front of the boat then disappeared. Peter fished off the boat with a great deal of care. Just on dark we moved a bit further out into the river so we would not swing around into the mangroves in the night. Could see the croc eyes in the torch light. A beautiful calm night where you don't even realise you are on a boat!!
Miles 35 Total 2,033
Day 57 - Friday 19 June - King River
Peter started fishing at 8am and one of the crocs was still watching us - a bit unnerving really! Caught a shark, trevally and some other thing but threw them back - no barra unfortunately -Had a quiet day. Couldn't believe Eric and Kim came down in their tender to visit us. Kim had a plastic bucket which could be used if crocidillus maximus attacked to stuff it in its mouth so you can make your escape!!! We were relieved when they made it back to their boat. A lovely relaxing day. Tomorrow is the day to find our way out of the river!!!!
Much love to everyone. Getting close to Darwin. Feel free to email us. Love to hear from you
Fair Winds
Dell and Peter.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com/
