Three miles from Ambon
Got up at 6 to leave at 7am. Blue Marlin had already left. Called up Whistle Down the Wind but they didn't want to leave till 4pm so we agreed to wait (have to get the arrival timing right). We all went to town in a bemo and I thoroughly enjoyed it this time. Got back to the Tirta Kencana Hotel and had a couple of bintangs and decided to stay another day!! Because we can!!! Single Malt had been in this area 15 years ago and met a family so they were showered with hospitality the evening before by the same family. We joined them on their cat at 4pm with a heap of people from that family - lotsa kids. This family is very musical and has been around the world playing their music and are very well educated. Nicko was explaining about the troubles a few years ago and he said it was never about religion - religion was just a tool. They managed to visit the Muslim village across the way (under threat of being killed) and negotiated a peace with them. Very brave. The father of one of the young men there was killed in the troubles. We ferried some of the family back to shore and had ten people in the dinghy!! A heap of us went to the hotel for dinner.
Day 108 - Sunday 9 August - Amahusu (Ambon) - Night one of the passage
We walked all through the little town being greeted joyfully everywhere we went. Bought some eggs and dessicated coconut at a little store. They have a machine run by a generator and feed in the pieces of coconut and it grates it all up. Had brunch at the hotel - fruit, omelette & fried banana with chilli. Back to the boat to prepare for leaving. Five young lads came out in their canoe. Kevin had impeccable English and had been to Darwin where his father lives. We invited them onboard and showed them through the boat and they were all fascinated. At 3.30 Whistle Down The Wind called up and said lets go so we upanchored at 3.45pm and left to horns and whistles being blown by Wave Sweeper and all the kids waving! We had dinner when it got dark and set the sails and sailed through the night.
Day 109 - Monday 10 August - at sea - Night two of the passage
Morning found us going along nicely with the seas pretty good. Had to motor for six hours as lost the wind and the main was flapping and we broke a shackle so took it down and just went under headsail. Sat on the deck for sundowners and dinner. Put the stereo on for my night shift which really helped pass the time and the moon is so bright.
Day 110 - Tuesday 11 August - at sea - Night three of the passage
Happy Birthday Dad and vaile Robin Shaw - deepest sympathies to Robin's family
Peter had Mr Fleming on all night but hit something which turned the boat 90 degrees - Peter couldn't steer it either but it cleared after ten minutes - possibly the remnants of a floating net. We just plodded along for the rest of the day and evening slowing down to arrive at a good hour tomorrow.
Day 111 - Wednesday 12 August - Wangiwangi - Wakatobi
05°20.01S 123°31.88E
Came into Wangiwangi anchorage at 9.30 am past some fish traps and Wakatobi Information Centre consisting of Gino, Aday and one other bloke came out to assist us to tie up to a buoy. There are 12 buoys here. There are lots of big old boats which look as if they have been washed up on the shore but I think they have just been parked there. We had a snooze then went to town - we pull up to the restaurant and leave the dinghy there. There were 6 yachts in and we were all invited to the Regent's house for dinner. We were thinking it would be like the King's dinner and we would have to wait ages to eat so we had something at the restaurant - big mistake!! We were collected by car at 7.20 and taken to the Regent's house where we were welcomed by the dignatories of Wakatobi and were sat at the front of the house on lovely seats where the Regent welcomed us. We then went to a room where the Regent showed us a powerpoint presentation of the area. The name Wakatobi only came about in 2003 and it is made up of the first two letters of the four main Islands - WAngiwangi, KAlidupa, TOmia, BIongko!!! Wakatobi. Then we went to a lovely room with round tables beautifully set and a huge buffet dinner - so much food. I was given a sea urchin thing to eat - even ate it - not too bad but I wouldn't race out to find another one!! After dinner we returned to the front of the house and were entertained by young ladies who performed two cultural dances. All the men (9 in total - we were a small elite group of guests) were presented with a woven sash - the women got nothing - I suppose it's an islam thing) And then we were returned by car to the restaurant, went to our boats and fell into bed!!!
Miles : 300 Total 3,355
Day 113 - Thursday 13 August - Wangiwangi , Wakatobi
Left at 10am and walked all around the town. Heard some loud music so we went in and it was a music school. The teacher sat at the front of the stage playing a bass guitar, and boy could he play it! There was a keyboard, drums, two electric guitars and a young lady singing. The third song she sang a little bit of English for us. It would be so cool to be able to play a musical instrument and join in!! We then went back to the markets which were more extensive than we had realised - bought some bananas and some salak which is an Indonesian fruit which has a peel like snake skin. The lady at the market peeled one for us and let us try it first. Whistle came for sundowners and we missed our sked with Cilantro because we forgot about the hour's time difference! We then went to the restaurant and had 2 beers and 4 dishes and it was only about $3.50 each - good food too!
Day 114 - Friday 14 August - Wangiwangi, Wakatobi
Having a quiet day on the boat. There are no tours or anything here despite the fact that they are trying to promote tourism. Will have to see if we can organise something. There are supposed to be 100 buoys here but they have managed to do only 12 and boats are coming in. They just tried to move 3 boats inside the reef but I am not sure they realise our boats have keels - anyway the first one touched bottom so they are all now back on the buoys. That same poor boat had its buoy take off down the harbour when they first got here!!. We are not going to Hago Island as they are rafting up on the buoys over there. Indonesian Day is on 17th so will stay for the celebrations - I think they will be pretty big. Finally, after asking lots of different people one of the blokes here said he does tours and showed us the brochure so six of us have booked a car for tomorrow morning. We were told about the march tomorrow which is a community march with kids, old women and old men so over a couple of bintangs Jean and David (Whistle Down the Wind) and we decided we should march too!! They are continuing to put buoys in here and are working really hard to accommodate us.
Day 115 - Saturday 15 August - Wangiwangi, Wakatobi
Our tour started at 8.30 and while we were waiting we asked if it would be ok if we marched in the community march. He got all excited and said I will tell the Government and we thought oh no! So we alerted the rally boats that are here (about a dozen or more now) that Team Sail Indonesia would be marching and to all wear their Sail Indonesia teeshirts. We then left on the tour and saw how they harvest sea weed which is a big industry here and then went to a 1500's fort and Mosque and then down to a village which is built on reclaimed land with canals all through it - amazing stuff. When we drove in there was a corner where everyone beeps their horn and there was a parrot in the house which beeped back!! So funny. Some kids had a tiny little pool table and cues and were using marbles for the balls. They are so inventive here and they use absolutely everything - nothing is wasted. A part of the coconut shell becomes a spoon for scooping out the coconut - amazing. We then went to a beach where we thought we may be able to snorkle but it was shallow reef and then a huge drop off. We walked out to the drop off and it was very picturesque. They are in the process of building a resort here and it will certainly be lovely when it is finished. We were supposed to go to the lookout but we got a phone call saying we had to be back by 12 as we were registered to march in the parade - what had we done!!!!!! Raced back to the boats and got changed and met back at the restaurant. We quickly made up a Sail Indonesia banner - Jean's old curtain, some texta and a couple of sticks and Jean had her big Indonesian flag. The fleet all turned out for the march which was fantastic as we had visions of just six of us marching!!! We were officially team number 10A but didn't quite get there in time so we went after team 12 which was between two lots of lovely ladies who marched impeccably. We found ourselves with a police motor bike escorting us and an army soldier joined us half way round. We were supplied with bottled water all the way round. It was a huge day and was about 7 km in the hot sun and after every km we had to dance for about 50 metres. We thought what the heck do we do so everybody did the swing around the arm thing in pairs and the crowd went wild!!! Every time we halted the crowd cracked up - we were getting better by the end but obviously still not up to standard!!! People waved and gave us the thumbs up and towards the end were yelling out we love you. We had to march past the Regent and all the officials and salute. All the officials stood up and loved it. (Everybody else only had one official take the salute!!). At one stage we got mobbed by the crowd. Aday was our whistle blower (which kept us in step - mostly!). When we finished after about two hours (whew) one of the lovely good lady marchers came up to me and said thankyou and kissed me on both cheeks which was really touching and took me by surprise. We were then taken to the Regents house where they sat us behind the officials and gave us all a little snack pack (really needed) and the Regent came over and thanked us which was really lovely. A fantastic day which everyone really enjoyed and we sat and talked about it over dinner at the restaurant and then an early night. We commented later that we thought we were the only old men and women in the march!!!
Miss you all heaps. Special love to Jessie, Jack and Rosie.
Fair Winds and Calm Seas (that worked last time I said that!!)
Dell and Peter
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