DAY 171 - Saturday 10 October - Kumai, Kalimantan, Borneo
02°44.44S 111°43.94E
It was very shallow coming up the Kumai River and we followed waypoints to get us in. Passed a couple of barges being pulled by tugs and we saw one that would have had a tow rope at least ½ km long. The shallowest part was 1.5m under the keel. We passed one of the big Indonesian boats fully laden who was stuck on the bottom but it was an incoming tide. Anchored in the middle of the fleet with heaps of distance between other boats off the town of Kumai which is a very busy port. There are quite a few big drab buildings, windowless with just little holes in the sides and apparently they are for the swallows. They make their nests in the buildings and then they are harvested (the nests, not the birds!) and exported to China for birds nest soup.
DAY 172 - Sunday 11 October - Kumai, Kalimantan, Borneo
We were invited to a boat race by the Regent of the area so all piled on a bus and it turned out it was the Regent's birthday and this boat race is an annual event. We were given a gift pack each with a t-shirt, bracelet, local honey and quinine stick. We all had to put our Sail Indonesia t-shirts on and we were shown to the VIP tent for a great view of the river. First though we were welcomed with a dance by the dayack people. Their clothes were made of bark from the trees. The race started but it wasn't really a race, it was heaps of boats, large and small beautifully decorated and the people on them had beautiful costumes, dancing etc. It was a magnificent sight. We were given a snack pack on the bus, another at the race and then we were invited to the Regent's house for an impromptu lunch. The official residence was beautiful. We sat through a speech by the Regent explaining that they have free health, free education etc (one of the few places). There were young people from the English Conversation Club to interpret for us. Came back and Neptune II called us up to tell us our boat touched the cat Miss Jody and was fended off by their boatboy. We were miles away from Miss Jody and were amazed that we could move that far so we moved down the river right out the back. The river has wind and tide and boats go every which way. We booked our trip up the river with Mr B and were shown a boat which we didn't like so Jean and I jumped on the back of a motorbike to go and look at another boat which was bigger, newer and better so we took that one. It cost 2,700,00rp per couple ($324) - captain, cook, guide and assistant plus all meals and a boat boy on our boat to watch over it. Not bad hey!!! Poured rain for about an hour - washed the boat.
DAY 173 - Monday 12 October - up the Kumai River
Up early, and were picked up, along with David and Jean, by our klotok at 8am. They had put four chairs on for us as requested. Captain - Hoosley, Guide - Kasri, Cook - Taupik and assistant - Anna (male). We were immediately given tea and coffee in cups and saucers and a lovely bunch of bananas. We headed up the river and then off into a tributary. As we went up the river it got narrower and narrower. Peter spied a small brown crocodile and we saw a monkey. Then we spied our first orangutan in the wild. It was like a huge ginger blob in the tree then it moved and we saw the size of its hand - it was enormous! Further down we saw another one and some proboscus monkeys with the big bulbous noses and big bellies (the females noses are smaller). The river is extremely muddy apparently because of illegal goldmining up the river. We then went down another tributary and it was clear water and it got narrow and we were brushing the sides in places. Saw another crocodile with a long snout and two kingfishers (blue and orange) with a long red beak. We came to Camp Leakey and there were about 4 other klotoks there. We squeezed through the narrowest gap and then the captain turned a 50ft boat around in about a 51ft wide space and then back through the narrow gap & tied up next to another klotok - they can really manoeuvre their boats. Had a wonderful lunch - huge big prawny things, a vegetable dish, rice and fried chicken pieces followed by watermelon. Went to the ranger station and were greeted by Sampson (a male orangutan about 17 yrs old). Sampson has a bad hip as he has been attacked by Tom a couple of times. He put on quite a display posing and holding our hands. Dave finally got to see his gibbon. In fact it jumped from the roof to a tree just above us and Peter hit the deck as he thought it was going to land on him. We then walked a ways to the feeding platform and there were orangutans coming in from all directions. We could hear them and see the trees moving - there were small children ones, teenagers and mothers with babies and they were given milk on the platform. Then there was a commotion from the left and the guides said quick get out of the way its Tom (the King) and we all moved pretty quick. One of the poms commented when you see your guide run, you had better run too!!! Tom was absolutely huge. He went up the platform and all the other orangutans scattered. He then went down to the guides and they gave him a whole container of milk - he did share it with another orangutan though. Tom then leapt up a thin tree chasing one of the females. He then jumped on to another tree heading up and suddenly the whole tree (about 30m high and30-40cm thick) was coming down on us and we all scattered. Except Geoff who didn't quite know what was happening. I was telling him to move and then Dave said this way Geoff and he finally went towards Dave just as the tree landed where he had been standing. Tom made a huge racket as he went off because he didn't catch the female. When we were leaving there was Tom up a tree right beside the track. We prudently went around and then he got down and walked across the track into the trees. Back to the camp and Judy off Meridian was sitting with a female orangutan holding her wrist and the keepers were trying to get her off. Took a bit of persuasion but she finally let go. This orangutan is a known troublemaker and has bitten about 20 tourists!! They think she may have suffered trauma by a human before she came there. We came back to our klotok for sundowners and a beautiful meal awaited us - crumbed prawns, rice, spinach and tofu and fish in a beautiful sauce followed by watermelon. We pulled into the side of the river and tied up to some reeds and it poured rain all night with lots of lightning. The guys set up 4 mattresses in doubles, made the beds and put mosquito nets over both. And we had a shower. A really lovely day.
DAY 174 - Tuesday 13 October - up the Kumai River
Still raining - breakfast - banana pancakes, scrambled eggs and toast and watermelon. Went back to Camp Leakey around 10 when it stopped raining to see the information centre. Then Kasri took us for a walk through the jungle and pointed out the different trees and plants. Orangutans were hanging around the ranger station and also the jetty. Lunch - rice, vegetables, tofu and fish and mango. Sampson had been hanging around the boat and next thing he jumped on board the boat and grabbed something and took off with Kasri in hot pursuit. Sampson got the lid off and had a taste as he ran and dropped it real fast - it was soap. He went down to the river to wash his mouth out and he had it up his arm and was trying to wash it off and was blowing soapy bubbles. A little while later he jumped on the other klotok and grabbed a cup. We went back to the feeding platform where they were feeding bananas. Big Tom was already there (apparently we were really lucky as he doesn't always come in) and Princess and her baby came in. Princess was raised by one of the researchers and was taught to sign language and can open doors with keys and row a canoe! But since she had children she pretty much stays out in the jungle. Orangutans came from all directions again. Walked back down the other wharf where there were a heap of monkeys and one orangutan and child. The child was chasing the monkeys - very naughty! It was a really pretty spot and was where the klotoks used to tie up until 2002 when a British tourist was taken by a croc - now they don't use it. Back to the boat for banana fritters and watched the monkeys on the wharf. Watched a wild orangutan across the river in a high treetop build her nest for the night. They build a new nest every night by breaking the end branches in and there they sit high in the trees. Saw a heap of proboscus monkeys, a water monitor swimming (really big), a water snake and a cobra swimming across the river and a hornbill bird and a huge wild boar with 7 smaller boars. Went up the river and tied up to the reeds again. Dinner - big prawny things, fried chicken, vegetables, rice and pineapple.
DAY 175 - Wednesday 14 October - up Kumai River
Had breakfast - banana pancakes, scrambled egg and a big plate of mango (struggling to finish). Headed down the river to the second camp and went to the 9am feeding session but only three orangutans turned up which meant most of them were feeding and coping in the wild well. Saw a huge proboscus monkey launch himself out of a tall tree with all arms and legs extended and land in another lower tree - magic sight. Arrived at a village to kill some time and Kasri arranged for Jean and I to have a shower at the homestay as we had neglected to have a shower the previous evening and now the river water was too dirty. Had lunch - rice, fried chips, deep fried whole fish and prawns in a lovely sauce followed by mango. Peter and Dave watched a fish catching snake hang upside down from the jetty to catch fish. Went for a walk through the village then crossed the river to the third feeding station. This was a more swampy area with not so many big trees but more vines so the orangutans were swinging vine to vine. Watched a teenage orang-utan fall out of a tree - he missed the vine. Two adults and three teens came down but were more skittish so stuffed their mouths with bananas to take back up the tree to eat. Got back to the boat and Taupik had cooked us 26 banana fritters!!! We had a quiz and whoever lost had to eat a fritter!!!! (what a struggle!!!) We have never eaten so much!!! Headed back to the boats going past the palms in the dark to see the fire flies. It was like watching all the Christmas lights - so beautiful. And so ended our amazing three days and two nights up the Kumai River and in the jungles of Borneo. What an amazing wonderful trip.
DAY 176 - Thursday 15 October - Kumai, Kalimantan, Borneo
Sail Indonesia celebrations were supposed to start today but we heard nothing and then we were given a three day programme. Caught a bemo to the supermarket and to the local market to stock up on fruit and vegetables. Peter organised fuel through Mr B which arrived an hour later - quiet night.
DAY 177 - Friday 16 October - Kumai, Kalimantan, Borneo
Went in for the welcome dance with young ladies and men in national costume dancing and we had to dance with them too and were given a coconut with a straw and a snackpack. Dave and Jean went to Mr B's wife's sister's wedding held at Mr B's place - actually it was a marquee on one side of the road. The bride and groom have to sit out the front on a stage all day. Guests come in to eat and then go up and greet the bride and groom and then leave. At 12.30 we were taken by bus to the sultan's palace. The old one burnt down with all the treasures so they built another one which was a big wooden construction much like a big woolshed and of course no treasures. Then we watched a sticky rice cooking competition They use about 1 meter of bamboo with one end cut off, then line it with banana leave rolled up so it is hollow. They then stuff it with rice which has been soaked in cold water for 2 hours, then pour in coconut milk, put a stopper in the top made of banana leaf and then stand it up close to a hot fire for about an hour. Absolutely delicious. Then they had some big wooden spinning tops which was some type of a game and then to a rowing competition. There is a canoe and teams of two sit at each end facing out and they have to row against each other (much like a tug of war) until one crosses the line and wins - it is the best of three. Two of our guys had a go and lost, then Dave and Cool Bananas had a go and they won - they only rowed one though, not three. Went shopping and got back around 5.30 so we went to the wedding and had a lovely meal but the bride and groom had a break from 6 - 7 so we explained to Mr B we had to put the anchor light on. Dashed back and changed and asked Dave and Jean to get the bus to pick us up from the wedding. Went back to the wedding and ended up in the family line greeting and farewelling guests!!! Had our photo taken with the bride and groom. Kasri, Hoosley and Taupik were all there. A band started at 7 but there is no dancing and it is a dry town so there is no booze. The bus collected us and we thought we were going to see national dancing but actually went to see (Brett you will love this) FIRE FOOTBALL!!!! This is 5 a side soccer on a small field, the ball being a coconut with husk which has been soaked in kero and lit so it burns and flames up the whole time. The players cover their legs in ketchup and sand. It is also a dangerous spectator sport as the ball frequently runs into the crowd. Obviously there are no throwins although the goalie sometimes picked the ball up and threw it. Then 8 of our guys had a go with their shoes on except young Amber who had thongs on and soon lost them. She was all over the place and had a ball and the crowd loved it!! Even old Geoff had a go (he's 70!!). They reckoned it wasn't the fire that hurt but kicking the coconut as it was like kicking a brick!!!! Then it was time to call it a night.
As you can see it has been quite a time. We are missing our little Jackie mates more than we can say. Love to Rosie and Jessie.
Fair Winds and Calm Seas
Dell and Peter
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