WEEK 14: Miri Marina to Labuan Island

Saturday 16 July – Miri Marina
Went to the fancy Everly Hotel to do Harbour Master, Customs and Immigration then went to town to try to find a new bolt. Eventually found one in a dirty little car spare parts shop – it cost $1 and the fellow commented that he doesn’t sell many of them! We had lunch at a restaurant and noted that the Hash House Harriers were in town for their International run. Got back in time for the BIYC race briefing. We have never done this before (we are not exactly built for racing!) and it all sounded terribly confusing. Stopped for a beer on the way back and were going to stay for dinner but the cost of a beer had gone up considerably so we ate on board.

Sunday 17 July – Miri Marina – Race Day!!
Happy Birthday Stuart
There was a real buzz around the marina. We all had our BIYC shirts on looking very smart and the Minister was there and the press. Racers had people up their masts doing last minute things. A couple of the racing teams had team shirts. We all had our photos taken and then it was time to head out. There were actually only about 5 or 6 serious racers and the rest was us cruisers. one cruiser even took off his tender, anchor and chain to make him lighter!!! The exit of heaps of boats from the marina was surprisingly orderly and we all headed out to the start line. We were given co-ordinates over the radio for our coarse but weren’t actually given the first one. Apparently it was in our notes but..... There wasn’t much wind and we had to turn our motor off 4 minutes before the race started. We were hanging out the back trying to stay out of the way and a bit confused which way we were supposed to go. One boat went the wrong way and had to turn around. Anyway we were quite a way behind the startline when the race started (and there were boats behind us!) so it took us about half an hour to get to the start line! (no wind!!!!). We headed for the first big buoy and it seemed we were still hovering around the start line so we started to tack. We had the rudder turned hard to go to port (left) and the boat went to starboard (right)! The current had us. It was so funny!!! Anyway it took about an hour and a bit to get to the first buoy (about half a mile away!) BUT we finally got round it. Several boats gave up at this point and withdrew as they couldn’t quite get around the buoy. The current seemed to take us across the next leg at around 2 knots (we previously did 0 - .9 kn). Single Malt (a cat) was quite a way in front of us and we were the last boat. After we went round they bought the buoy in! We went right out and then tacked back in and did the last leg with a bit of wind and got up to 4.4 knots at one point. We caught up with Single Malt and it was neck and neck but they had the inside running and went round the buoy first which meant we were the last boat to finish. But with handicaps who knows – we are 18 tonne with a fixed prop and Cilantro (who came 4th) is around 6 tonne with a feathered prop. Anyway it took us about 3 1/2 hours (we were allowed 4) to go about 4 miles but we were so proud of ourselves for hanging in and finishing! One of the racing boats went too close to the buoy and caught its line around his keel and he had to dive to get it off! Anyway our reward for all this effort was a free night in the luxury Everly Hotel and a buffet dinner with entertainment and speeches (and free beer). It was a lovely night but they didn’t have the handicaps in and couldn’t say who won. I did think the skipper could have worn better footwear but they were his “good” thongs!
Stop Press – Cilantro (who is now in KK) advised us that after the handicaps were taken into consideration we came SECOND in the race!!!! And yes it appears there were more than two of us left in this race!!!

Monday 18 July – Miri Marina
Went back to the boat around 7.30am preparing to leave. The race is from Miri to Kota Kinnabulu (165 miles). Participants in all the races (including two at KK) get paid about $100 and are guaranteed a place in the marina – which is already pretty full and is part of a 6 star resort. Anyway we were just planning on starting and doing a DNF (did not finish) as we do not want to sail overnight and we want to go to duty free Labuan to get some wine. So we were one of the last boats out of the marina heading towards the start line in perfect timing when our chart plotter started switching itself on and off (like it did in Darwin when it had to be replaced). So we reluctantly had to withdraw and return to the marina. The skipper worked on the chart plotter installing our old one and the crew went to town to get some wine. There’s a man who sells cigarettes in the market and you ask him for wine and he takes you into a little shop about 2m wide out the back and unlocks a door and there is bottled wine and spirits. Then you bargain on the price. Was walking past the seafood restaurant and saw a whole heap of frogs in a big glass fish tank – thought they were fake but on closer inspection found they were all alive and waiting to be cooked!!!! By the time I got back the skipper had fixed our chartplotter – googled the FAQs and pressed one button which reset the whole thing and it was working again. Lost all our tracks and anchorages but its working!! Had drinks with Braveheart – Judy had just arrived back from a week in Darwin.

Tuesday 19 July – Miri Marina to off Brunei coast
Happy Birthday Phil
04°44.626N / 114°33.062#
We finally left the marina (alone!) at 7.45am and motor sailed in very dirty water (hardly any wind) past lots of oil rigs and tugs pulling barges. The water was only muddy on the surface as we left a clean wake behind us. The skipper caught a fish so it was fish for dinner. There was a bit of a swell but at 6pm we pulled into the coast which was actually Brunei. After a while we turned stern on to the swell and we had a comfortable night.
Miles: 56 TTT: 1,910

Wednesday 20 July – Brunei Coast to Labuan
We left at 7.45am and motor sailed again up the coast of Brunei. There were lots of bunds all along the beaches and we couldn’t work out what they were for. We passed a rock wall which goes 1 ½ miles out to sea which rumour has it the Sultan’s brother had built so his kids could windsurf or do water sports. Passed many huge mansions on the hills. Obviously heaps of oil and gas money. As we were coming into Victoria Harbour at Labuan Island our depth sounder stopped working (everything seems to be wearing!) so phoned Single Malt who were anchored and then the depth sounder started working again. The skipper thinks it may have some growth on it but the water is not fit to dive in. It is reasonably clear but full of junk. The anchorage is fouled with plastic bags but we managed to anchor first go between the marine police and water village (on stilts) on one side and the ferry terminal and town on the other. Its a bustling port with heaps of ships and engineering works etc. Quiet night on board.
Miles: 54 TTT: 1,964

Thursday 21 July – Labuan
Called the water taxi which costs 1RM (33c) each and it came immediately and picked us up and dropped us near the ferry terminal. Explored the town – shopping area is nice and compact and checked out all the duty free shops. Took our purchases back to the boat and back to town again. Had a lovely$2 lunch each and noticed Braveheart had come in. We visited the museum and then the marina which is only two years old but being renovated as it was disintegrating. Hopefully they will get it right this time. Met Single Malt and Braveheart for a $2 dinner (plus beer!). and all caught the water taxi back to our boats.

Friday 22 July – Labuan
Took all morning getting our application for boat yacht insurance. Ours actually lapsed on the 18th and we decided not to go with Trident again. We also decided not to go with Edward William who were the cheapest as we didn’t like the stories we had heard about them so went with Pantaenius which was the most expensive but also we feel the most trustworthy. Called the water taxi and we don’t know what happened but it took 2 hours to come!! We did more browsing/shopping and met Braveheart for dinner – Indian – very nice. It has been rainy and overcast all day. Labuan is very friendly and has a nice feel about it. Labuan is where the Japanese surrendered to the 9th Australian Division on 9 September 1945. It is also the place where 3,908 allied WW II soldiers including those who perished during the Death March from Sandakan are interred. So we will look forward to coming back to explore it in more depth.


Take care all. Missing my little Rosie

Dell and Peter