WEEK 19: Kudat to Pulau Tiga

Saturday 20 August – Kudat
We decided to go ashore for lunch and as we had put Bob on board Braveheart and Cilantro each collected one of us. We did some shopping in another market we found and then walked to the other end of town and found there was a whole different area of Kudat – we thought we had seen it all. There was a very interesting Chinese temple there with a huge statue of a very jolly monk and decorated with dragons with long talon fingers. The restaurant we found didn’t have beer but the food was really good then the proprietor volunteered to go get us some beer and came back shortly later with cold cans of Korean beer which was really nice of him. We took a circuitous route back with Braveheart buying a burglar alarm and more locks then back to the boats for an early start in the morning.

Sunday 21 August – Kudat – Kudat Bay
06°56.450N / 116°50.599E
Got up at 5am and as soon as it was light we all upanchored – at least we tried to but found we were stuck fast. We tried this way and that but to no avail. We couldn’t retrieve our anchor and chain. Braveheart and Cilantro reanchored and waited with us. Kudat is not exactly a tourist town and there are no scuba diving places around so we called Sgt George who told us the Marine police had none but the Fire Department had one – when we called him he could only dive for emergencies and he told us to call the World Wildlife Foundation. We called the only resort in Kudat and she put us on to Mr Irwan of the World Wildlife Foundation who said he would come have a look. He then rounded up his buddy and at 1.30 the boat tied us off so the anchor chain could go loose and they both dived in 14 metres. It seemed to take ages and when they surfaced they said it was caught on some machinery like a tractor. They had untangled the chain from the superstructure but the anchor had gone down a big hole and they couldn’t get it out and the visibility was about six inches. So they said they would come back and try again in the morning. Devastating news because though we had a spare anchor albeit a smaller one you cant get chain or anchors here. The skipper pulled all the chain in and a ferry went past and we bounced up and down and next thing we were dragging!!! The up and down motion had made the anchor come out of the hole! After the skipper had got the fishing net which had wrapped around it off we all went around to the other bay and anchored there. We called Mr Irwan and his mate who came round to where we were so we could pay him. Think we paid him too much but it was worth it. He had asked around the fishermen and apparently there is a sunken barge there and we had managed to drop our anchor down the hold of the barge. Couldnt have done that if we had tried!! Cilantro had got a rat on board when they took their dinghy in to get fuel. First they found a snake at the back of the boat and then the rat. They got rid of the snake with a boat hook and later in the evening we could hear sounds of “get it get it” with loud thumping noises and torch light going everywhere with advice coming from Braveheart of “grab it by the tail grab it by the tail” and shortly thereafter were advised that Basil the rat had jumped overboard!! Who wouldn’t!!!
Miles: 4 TTT: 2543

Monday 22 August – Kudat Bay – tip of Borneo
07°01.033N / 116°46.718E
We all upanchored at first light (again) and headed round to the tip. It was very windy and when we got to the tip we could see white water so we pulled in to the shore to wait for better weather. Two other boats came in to join us and it turned out they had had a shocking trip up with 3m seas and one had blown out his headsail. So we spent the day reading and enjoying an enforced down day.
Miles: 8 TTT: 2,551

Tuesday 23 August – Tip to Ambong – the trip from hell
06°18.486N / 116°18.075E
Once again we left just on light and went around the tip. The wind had appeared to have dropped but on rounding the tip – there it was on the nose. We managed to get our headsails out and make some way into the wind and the waves. We probably should have gone back but we kept hoping it would get better and after all the trouble we wanted to be on our way. We only averaged around 2 knots slamming through the waves and up and over 3 metre waves which would just stop the boat in its tracks. It was the most horrendous day and it was scary just looking at Braveheart and Cilantro go through it. We apparently looked just as bad. The skipper donned his life line and went forward and got the mainsail up with two reefs and that steadied us a bit and at times gave us a bit of assistance which let us do 3 knots! Braveheart pulled in to a little anchorage at around 5pm – doubt it would have been any good for monos so we had to keep going. We followed our track into the sheltered anchorage of Ambong at 10pm in the dark. For those who have never sailed in the dark it is a bit like driving without your headlights – you just hope there is nothing in front of you! It took us 16 hours to cover only 59 miles. The voyage from hell! We lost the toilet brush overboard washed off the deck. We had a shower to wash all the salt off, a wine, last night’s leftover dinner and fell into bed.
Miles: 59 TTT: 2,610

Wednesday 24 August – Ambong
A lovely still night – the wind had dropped off. Slept in till 6am! Staying put for the day. Braveheart sailed up and got in around 11. We had sundowners on Pacific Express and planned our next day while checking the weather files hoping they were right this time. Another lovely safe calm night.

Thursday 25 August – Ambong – Police Bay, Pulau Gaya
06°02.128N / 116°01.160E (20)
Thinking of you Dad – 36 years
We all left at first light and we sailed for the first couple of hours and then we motor sailed – sea state was slightly swelly – what a difference a day makes! We obviously went a day too early. We arrived at Police Bay at 1.15pm and anchored off the reef in 16m water and went back to 20m. There is a very fancy resort here which we have been told is hugely expensive. We put Bob in and rowed to the beach. Braveheart camein and we snorkled but the coral was dead – there were a few fish but it was very ordinary. But it was nice to be in the water again. Went back to the boat around 3pm. Braveheart discovered that one of their oars had been stolen! Some longtail macaques came down to the beach – we presume thats what they were. They have long black tails and are very dark and much bigger than an ordinary macaque. Was lovely to sit and watch them Had a peaceful night. Watched a lightning show over the hill hoping the storm wouldn’t come and it didn’t. An early night.
Miles: 31 TTT: 2,641

Friday 26 August – Police Bay – sandspit at Pulau Tiga
05°44.979N / 115°40.766E
Happy Birthday Mum
We all left at first light with mainsails up in good weather. Our engine mounts are very worrisome. We motor sailed and arrived at the sheltered sandspit near Pulau Tiga at 12 noon. Braveheart anchored off Tiga and explored the island but it was too swelly for us there. We had a quiet afternoon and a good nights sleep. Last time we were here we left the boat open but this time we locked up!
Miles: 29 TTT: 2,670

About 100 miles to Miri but we are going to detour into Brunei for the end of Ramahdan celebrations. Will let you know how that goes. There are no photos to speak of this week so will leave you with a series of photos Judy from Braveheart took of Cilantro and a ship.


Meanwhile love to all and take care.

Dell and Peter