09°20.893N / 118°05.601E
At 2.30am the swell started coming around the reef (it was a falling tide) and we started rolling a bit. It wasn't too bad though especially given the size of the swell outside. A couple of fishermen in a small boat came close and waved and said hullo. There were quite a few boats around but they stayed away. We left at 8am and went out into the biggest swell - no one has mentioned the swell before and we didn't think it would be like this - uncomfortable. A fishing boat passed in front of us and waved. We headed for Quezon town but the swell was huge and we suddenly went from 20m to 5m so we did a quick about turn and got out of there. The skipper hooked a huge fish just as we turned away and the fish leapt out of the water and he was reeling it in when it broke the 50lb line. This area has not been surveyed on our charts so it really is feeling our way. We headed for some islands nearby and the depths were all over the place. Braveheart went in and tried one of the islands but it was too deep and rolly. Cilantro led the way to the next island but we were blocked off by reef so they decided to go between the islands (very slowly). The crew wasn't too keen to follow but we all went. We went down to 0.8m under the keel and missed a bommie by about 2 foot. Heart attack material really. When I was up the front watching for reef I smelt smoke and then we noticed smoke coming from Cilantro's exhaust. They checked everything and concluded they had something round their prop. Anyway we headed down the outside of the island into the swell again until we got past the island and all the reef with huge waves breaking on it. Then we turned in and went past heaps of sticks, huge fish contraptions and fish nets and we could see the reef all around the outside. Went around behind the island and dropped the anchor at 4.40 (so much for an easy day!) just in front of a dozen little floating huts and behind the fish nets. The island is gorgeous - all coconut palms and beautiful with huge surf breaking over the reef. We were so relieved to find this place as it was starting to look like we would have to do an over nighter! The fishermen are really friendly so I think we will be fine.
Miles: 38 TTT: 501
Sunday 5 February - Double Island
We decided to be kind to ourselves and stay another day. The surf is not breaking as hard on the reef today. The island is absolutely beautiful covered in coconut palms. We spent the day aboard and at 3.45 we went ashore with Cilantro. We approached the big house made out of thatched rattan with a thick thatched roof - very solidly built. Six dogs came down to greet us which was a bit disconcerting. We met Jocelyn who invited us to the house and we sat outside beside the kitchen (separate to the house). Jocelyn has been the caretaker for seven years for Mr Jones who owns the island. Mr Jones is Swiss apparently. Jocelyn's mother and her two sons Rodney (8) and Jerrick were there and three of her daughters are in Puerta Princessa and the fourth daughter (23) lives on the mainland with her two children. Jocelyn is 42. We chatted for a while laughing as she tried to teach us a few Filippino words. Then we walked around the island accompanied by Rodney. The island is called Double Island as there is a sandspit across to another island. There were about six huts over there but we didn't want to intrude so just walked around the one. It was great being able to go in and communicate. We then all went to Braveheart to strategise about tomorrow which will be a long haul.
Monday 6 February - Double Island - Fish Bay
09°58.682N / 118°39.627E
We left at first light at 6am - it was a low tide and we followed our track out on the chart plotter. We had gone out and were in 15m when Braveheart called up to say they were in 15m and the skipper went below to talk on the radio when next thing we were in 5m and dropping! Absolutely heartstopping not knowing which way to go to find more water. The skipper told me later we had gone down to 0.5m under the keel. The charts were a bit out!! Anyway we headed further away from the land and went way out and around. There was still a bit of a swell but nothing like the previous days. And as the day wore on it became more settled and wasn't too bad. We came into Fish Bay around 3.50 and could clearly see the bits of reef and dropped anchor in 5.3m. We were able to tell Braveheart and Cilantro where the reef was when they came in 30 and 40 mins later. Its amazing what a difference that short time makes to being able to see the reef. The bay is gorgeous. Crystal clear green water, white beach, coconut plantation in front and village to the side. Saw a man leading a water buffalo along the beach pulling a bamboo sled thing with a little daschound walking in front. And then four little kids riding a water buffalo along the beach and two little kids with a stick not quite game enough to whack it. J But they did whack it and it went bush and they all disappeared and reappeared shortly after with two kids on its back and another kid leading it. They tied it up in the grass and headed back up the beach. A beautiful spot.
Miles: 54 TTT: 555
Tuesday 7 February - Fish Bay
Had a quiet start to the day then took the bathoscope out in Bob to see if the reef was any good. Lots of weed and not so good coral. At 2.30 we headed for shore and met Jacob and Carla off the other yacht in the bay - Lotus - who said they had organised a jeepney to Puerta Princessa tomorrow and did we want to go. They also asked if we had a spare propeller for their outboard as someone stole the prop off their motor!! We did as it happened. We all went to shore and met Carmalita who decided to give us a tour of the village. We saw the site where an Italian bloke is going to build a medical clinic, the open air church and the school which had 4 - 5 classrooms. We visited the smaller kids and they were very excited. The Govt has given all the villagers 20m x 30m blocks of land and their huts flow up the hill. Our guide then took us to the Vice-Mayors house which is being turned into a bit of a resort. Here we found a small zoo with a crocodile, rabbits, macaque monkeys and a huge snake. We then walked around the beautiful beach and back again. At the moment we have just seen a beautiful sunset and all the smoke rising from the village fires and it is so calm and lovely. (but lots of sand flies, all of us got bitten and are trying hard not to scratch)
Wednesday 8 February - Fish Bay
We left at 8am in the jeepney which is like an elongated troop carrier with roll up clears at the sides and very brightly coloured. Carmalita joined us for the trip which took 1 ½ hours. We found Puerta Princessa to be interesting - lots of traffic all driving on the right hand side of the road. Lots of motor bikes with kind of side cars with a roof over the lot. Carmalita took us to a Filippino restaurant for our first Filippino meal which was very nice. They eat a lot of pork. We then went to the Yacht Club to check it out and met an eccentric gentleman - a pom who had been there 20 years. He had a bell on the table and when he wanted another drink or cigarettes he rang it and a lovely lass would appear with it. We want one of those bells! Had a drink with him and then went to the local market for fruit, veges and eggs and then to the supermarket which we hadn't realised was a long way back into town. We got the necessities and we cant wait to go back with some more time to do some fun shopping. As we headed back it started to rain so we were rolling and unrolling the window clears all the way back! A good day out and it cost us 4,000 pesos which was around $25 per couple.
Thursday 9 February - Fish Bay
Had a quiet day then Braveheart and we headed into the local school to take some books and pens in for them. We then had a meeting on Cilantro to exchange information with Lotus who was heading south.
Friday 10 February - Fish Bay - Oyster Inlet, Ulugan Harbour
Happy Birthday Patrick
10°04.279N / 118°45.225E
We left at 8am for an easy day short trip to Ulugan Harbour. The seas were very short and very swelly and extremely uncomfortable. Braveheart had shot ahead and were anchored so we very carefully headed for them as we couldn't see the reef through the not so clear water. We decided it was a bit too swelly there for us so followed a channel around the back. Our depth sounder is playing up so Cilantro took the lead but we soon found ourselves in shallow water with the odd bommy around. We tried anchoring in 13m but it was on reef so we retreated and headed for Oyster Inlet. There are lots of fish farms around so we anchored in 17m and went back to 6m. The depths are weird so we are hoping we are not over coral - we think (hope) its mud. The skipper caught a few small rock cod - too small - what are they living in down there! Anyway it is like amill pond in here and really good after a trying day. People keep telling us it gets better from here up - we hope they are right. No phone coverage here either.
Miles: 24 TTT: 579
Carol, hope your shoulder is on the mend. Anyway love to all. The skipper is still having fun, the crew is hoping it gets better!!
Missing everyone
Dell and Peter
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
