WEEK 13–Balalacao Island to North Verde Island

Saturday 31 March – Bulalacao Isle – Nth Bay Linapacan Isle
11°27.506N / 119°48.307
Dawn is just breaking and we can hear music from the only hut we can see on the shore, the roosters are going off and we can hear the birds chirping. It is oh so still and there is a lone gecko calling. Our batteries are really fading – they cant hold the charge through the night and the fridge/freezer has to be turned off. We left at 7 and headed towards the bay reputed to have a Spanish fort. We went into the bay past the pearl farms and could see the reef on the port side but the sun was in the wrong place to see the starboard side. We went over a few shallow patches (!) and anchored in 17m but suddenly we were in 5m and could see bommies out the back of the boat so had to reanchor! Judy and Chris came to visit in the late afternoon. We didn’t see the Spanish fort!
Miles: 34 TTT: 1314

Sunday 1 April – Linapacan Island – Shark Fin Bay, Palawan Island
11°09.717N / 119°32.346E
Bravehart called up early to say they could see whale sharks outside and we were about to race up to see them when Cilantro came back and said the April fool didn’t fool them – sure fooled us but! We left about 7.15 and went over a very shallow patch which was a bit daunting and headed down to Calayanlayan Bay which we had heard was the pick of the bunch – which it was. Stunning islands with stunning beaches BUT either way too deep or reef – there was no in between. Such a shame as we could have spent a few days there. We left and went up the sheltered side of the islands but we could see a huge storm cell ahead and could see it on the radar. We went hell for leather up around the top of the island and headed away from it. We could see lightning striking the water 1 ½ miles away. We met up with Cilantro and Braveheart again and went slowly so the storm passed. We came into the only likely place we could see on the chart with depths to anchor. Were a bit nervous as there was reef and rocks marked on the chart and it was late in the afternoon but we could see the reef off the starboard side and had good depths all the way in and anchored beside a huge limestone karst just like in Thailand. Absolutely stunning. We could see a cave 1/3 of the way up the cliff with a tent and hammock in it and a little hut perched on the side of the cliff just over from where we are anchored. We suspect they are guarding the birds nests. We can also see a few eagles. There is a white patch on the rock just over from us which looks like a Sarawak warrior face and above it is another face. Check the photos out and see if you can see both. A truly stunning spot.
Miles: 42 TTT: 1356

Monday 2 April – Shark Fin Bay
The wind just blew all day and it was overcast so we had a boat day and Peter baked some bread. Just on dusk Braveheart called us to look at the bats and there was a great ribbon of bats leaving the island – Brilliant.

Tuesday 3 April – Shark Fin Bay – Maytigud Island
11°09.717N / 119°32.346E
It was a very calm morning so we took Bob and circumnavigated the island. There was quite a bit of coral on our side which looked really nice and on the other side the channel was very shallow with coral and weed. There were a few little huts scattered around the cliffs, some occupied, some old. We saw a really cool cave but there were oysters and not quite wide enough to get inside. Peter and Chris went to talk to the men on the birds nest platform – they were a bit reticent aft first – probably thought we were after the birds nests. Also they didn’t have much English. Its funny when you come in to anchor we sometimes think later maybe we could have gone in a bit closer but when the sun came out this morning and we could see the reef we knew we had been in the perfect position! There are lots of butterflies around the place again. We came out around some gorgeous islands with reef all around the loveliest emerald to aqua colour – beautiful. We then found ourselves among the pearl farms which were all higgledy piggledy. Two security guards in a boat came out and led Braveheart through and we all followed which was just as well as we didn’t know which way to go. Shortly after this just as we got to the last pearl farm raft Braveheart caught a net around their prop and Chris had to dive to get it off but it is damaged – will go forward but cant reverse. We came around some large karsts and into a sheltered bay. Its funny with reef – it just seems to pop up all over the place. There were lots of fish farm nets around but we all managed to find a spot to anchor in 17m. Chris towed one of the locals whose boat had broken down to shore. A quiet night.
Miles: 42 TTT: 1398

Wednesday 4 April – Maytigud Isl – Icadambanaun Isl
10°49.437N / 119°37.439E
We left at 8.15 and went past beautiful Apulit Island which had a resort on it and reef all around. It had a large cross on the cliff above it. Saw some scuba divers surface. We followed the shipping lane in towards Tay Tay hoping to get ashore. Tay Tay has a HUGE sign on the hill above the town saying – TAY TAY – of course! It was a bit rough and the channel a bit narrow so we chose not to try it and headed out to Icadambanauan Island. It was mid morning so we could clearly see all the beautiful reef – a very pretty island. We headed to the third bay which said 8m on the chart but we found 33m at that spot and the shallowest we found was 24m which was such a shame as it was a stunning bay. We then went through a channel between reef in the second bay and went through more reef into a duckpond with little houses all round. We did a circle and had just enough room to anchor but there was no room for error so we decided not to risk it and went to the fist bay where Cilantro were anchored in 19.8m. Four girls came by so we invited them on to see the boat, which they thought was pretty exciting. Could hear a pig screaming – had to block my ears – so awful! Later a man came by with his two young daughters and at first we thought he was trying to give them to us! Then we worked out he wanted us to give some bread for his daughters – to eat! Whew! Saw the fruit bats leave in the evening – a lovely calm anchorage.
Miles: 24 TTT: 1440

Thursday 5 April – Icadambanauan Island - Capayas nr Domaran Channel
10°29.426N / 119°41.528E
Saw the fruit bats return then left at 7am. Braveheart had left some time before us and they called up to say they couldn’t find a way through the pearl farms so we all had to go miles out and around a huge shallow patch and another island heading into quite a swell. Braveheart called again and said they had come across more pearl farms and were heading back and around where they had seen some local boats go. As we headed down there were pearl farms on both sides. Braveheart gave us a couple of way points to follow and also the lowest depth as our depth sounder had stopped working again. We came down between Palawan and an island, round the reef and more pearl farms then round another point with more pearl farms through some driving rain and anchored not far from a town with a very big church. The skipper is charging up our spare battery and the old starter battery with the generator - unfortunately the old starter battery is stuffed so that was a good idea which didn’t work out – oh well! A very tiring and slightly stressful day today – but at least it wasn’t boring! There is a bit of a swell coming in and we are rolling.
Miles: 28 TTT: 1468

Friday 6 April – Capayas – Nth Verde Island
10°07.201N 119°13.815E
The roll settled down and we had a surprisingly good night. We left around 7 and headed through the shallows and reef of Green Island Bay. We saw two dolphins ahead of us and they came and played around the bow of the boat for a while. We haven’t had that for such a long time. We caught a mackerel just as we were going past a lovely island. Our depth sounder stopped working after that so we followed Cilantro through the shallows. Our chart plotter was out as it showed we were on the island! Reef island had a resort on it. Braveheart dived on their prop but we misunderstood them and thought we couldnt stay so kept going - apparently we could have stayed so that was disappointing. We went over a couple of shallow patches – the depth sounder was working at this point – so headed to deeper water further off shore. It was getting late so headed in to the North Verde Island which is across the channel from Palawan main island. A big fish took the line but ended up breaking it off so there went another lure! Braveheart went in first and gave a coordinate to stay on the port side of as there was a sandbar to the right and fishtraps built on reef to the left and it was low tide!! If we’d had a choice at that point I don’t think we would have gone in but Bravehart were already in and waiting for us. Cilantro followed us in but what they didnt know was that to keep our depth sounder working we had to keep going into neutral then slow forward then neutral so they ended up very close behind us. The skipper kept the waypoint to starboard but all I could see on the port side as we went in were rocks right beside the boat – exhilarating to say the least!!! We then followed Cilantro up the channel as the depth sounder had stopped working. We anchored at 4.15 in 13m – it was so beautifully calm. Oh and just in case you think we are wimps I must explain that Braveheart have a google earth capacity on their chart plotter so even when the charts are out they can still see the lay of the land and reef so to speak. There was a small bat flying around the boat in the evening and it seems that one may have found its way into Braveheart – they are not sure but the haven’t found Count Basil yet!!!
Miles: 42 TTT: 1510

One thing I forgot to tell you after we got back from dinner at the resort at Puerto Del Sol last week was that the skipper dropped the rope to Bob before he could tie it off and of course Bob immediately started drifting away so it was a dark late night swim for the skipper to retrieve him!!

Hope you all have a Happy and Blessed Easter. Missing you
Love
Dell and Peter