Saturday, April 28, 2012
WEEK 16 – Puerto Princesa
We had a communal breakfast at the Club on Anzac Day and on Friday we checked out of the Philippines meaning to leave on the 28th. They ended up not charging us anything to check in or check out but if we had extended our visas as Braveheart have it costs 3,300 pesos ($75) each.
I think I have mentioned the main mode of transport is the trike and they can actually carry five people. Four in the cabin and one sidesaddle on the back behind the rider. You stand at the side of the road and hail them. They all have names on the front, some religious – examples are: Christ the King, God’s Gift, Carlo-Jessica, 5 Sisters, 3 Brothers, Aries, Virgo, Survivor, Superman and for the couth and cultured- Fart. There are white trikes and blue trikes and they work alternate days but after8pm they can both work.
On Tuesday evening we walked a kilometre or so to a restaurant we had been told about in the mangroves. We had fantastic food and they were playing great music and the setting was wonderful. So Friday night we went there with Cilantro and Braveheart to celebrate Sandra’s birthday – which was actually on Saturday but we were supposed to leave that day. We had the best night and we all enjoyed Sandra’s birthday immensely. In fact we enjoyed it so much we decided to stay another day and go there again tomorrow night!
So hard to leave Puerto Princesa. The people here are so gorgeous. They are so friendly and despite their poverty seem so happy. The children swim off a brick wall by the Yacht Club every day and all greet us as we walk up the road. When we come out of the supermarkets now all the trikes know where we are going and don’t try to rip us off. Of course we pay a bit more than the locals but its never more than $2 - $3. They are just the loveliest people.
For those of you in or near Brisbane, check out the following site: http://premier.ticketek.com.au/shows/show.aspx?sh=KILLERQU12. Sorry I dont know how to link it and they have "improved" the blog site- dont you hate that!!!!
Our daughter Amy has organised a show at the Tivoli Theatre on 28th July. All for a good cause – the Ride for Cancer in which Amy is participating.
We may be out of email range in the next week as we slowly head south towards Borneo. My computer's hard drive has finally died so am doing this on Peter's and I am not allowed to touch anything so no photos this week!
Take care, much love
Dell and Peter
Monday, April 23, 2012
WEEK 15–Puerto Princesa
The skipper got all the old batteries out and with the help of Chris got them into Bob – two of them weigh 60 kg each! They took them in and the new batteries were delivered and they got them, back to the boat and put in their place – at last! We have 300 amps instead of 400 but at least they work! The skipper had been very grateful to Andy for making him get a generator before we left Darwin as he had used it a lot to charge the old batteries. Had a clean up on the boat then Cilantro, Braveheart and we all went to Kaluis, the special restaurant, for dinner – we had to book and used our ‘winnings’ from Melbourne Cup to pay for the meal. I say ‘winnings’ when in actual fact we halved our money but as we had a bet on every horse it was winnings! Had a wonderful meal with a lovely bottle of wine which was called Tall Horse and it had a picture of a giraffe on it!
Monday 16 April
We walked down to the big blue church we had seen when we came in and notice a park across the road with an ancient entry and discovered it had been a US POW camp and on 15 December 1943 143 Americans had been ordered into the air raid shelters and had kerosene and hand grenades thrown down on them and were burnt to death – only 11 survived. We haven’t seen a lot of American cemeteries or camps before and it brings home their part in the war too.
Wednesday 18 April
We were picked up at 8am by bus and headed to Sabang. The lady sitting in front of us held up one peanut and with a mouthful of nuts asked if we would like a nut – we declined. She must have thought we looked really strange (or hairy!!) as she stared at me for a good part of the way. One thing we have noticed with Asian women is they have a lack of body hair on their arms. We had two stops along the way – one for souvenirs and the other to take photos of the spectacular karsts with rice paddies around them. The scenery was quite stunning and two hours later we pulled up at Sabang and the sea was as flat as and such a beautiful colour – shades of aqua. Such a difference to when we were last there! We had a very early lunch then went to the Bangka stop and our guide got us on the 12.30 bangka with the rest of our group. It was a 10 minute Bangka ride across to the beach then a short walk through the jungle where the smaller bangkas collected us after we had donned life jackets and helmets. There were lots of swiftlets flying around in front of and in the cave and heaps of bats in the cave. The river is an 8.2km long underground river which flows directly to the sea and is visited by 700 – 1,000 people a day so we only went 1.2km in. Unfortunately our guide wasn’t terribly interested in explaining things to us and stayed very close to the noisy boat in front of us so we couldn’t hear him anyway which kind of detracted from the granduer of the place. And they give the one torch to the person at the front. It was wonderful but over too soon. I think one of the special tours to go 4km would be good but knowing how hard it was to get permits for this far we wouldn’t have even attempted it. We walked back and saw a couple of rather large monitor lizards – they really are like small komodo dragons – and some monkeys who were intent on grabbing people’s bags. Then it was back on the bus and we were back at the Yacht Club by 5pm. It was a good day out.
The rest of the week has been taken up by walking around he town, shopping and eating!
We have checked out the pearls here and found them to be expensive – I am not sure how much pearls usually cost but these are hugely more expensive than we paid in the Bandas. Mind you, nicer pearls if you like them big. Filippino pearls are a yellowy or ebony colour and are very big – about three times bigger than the pearls we normally see. We have seen one necklace for 60,000 pesos ($1,428) and another for 120,000 pesos ($2,857). A single pearl depending on its quality is $50 - $70.
Anyway we are now starting to do some timings and passage planning and will head south back towards Miri towards the end of next week.
Hope you are all well. Missing you.
Love Dell and Peter
Monday, April 16, 2012
WEEK 14–North Verde Island to Puerto Princesa
Happy Birthday Pete
09°54.632N / 118°52.306E
It was so calm. The skipper got up at midnight again to run the motor to charge the batteries. We followed our track out and the tide was a bit higher so it wasn’t so bad going out. We motor sailed over some pretty deep water and then shallow. At one stage where the deep water met the shallow water we had some breaking waves. We came into Arrecife Island which apparently some years ago had hostages taken from the resort. Braveheart had some notes which said the resort welcomed yachties but obviously that has now changed. We had been looking forward to going ashore and doing some snorkelling. There was a navy boat anchored there with 4 big guns on it. The resort people came out in their boat and said Braveheart and Cilantro had to move as they were too close to the reef. Cilantro headed for Puerto Princesa (4 hrs away) and Braveheart reanchored. Cilantro came back shortly after as it was a bit rough out there. Then the resort told us we could stay the night but could not go ashore! Then at 5pm they came and told Cilantro we were a security risk so we had to go. Cilantro said it was too late for us to leave and they haven’t come back. The skipper made hot cross buns and Cilantro gave us some little chocolates for Easter and we gave them some fish. We are now below the 10° mark which is supposed to be out of the cyclone belt.
Miles: 32 TTT: 1542
Sunday 8 April – Arrecife Island – Puerto Princesa
Happy Birthday Katie
09°45.917N / 118°43.746E
We had an early start and after a whileBraveheart called us up to tell us we were heading for a reef and sure enough our depth was dropping so we made a sharp turn out of there – our charts are way out. As we approached Puerta Princesa the seas really kicked up and it was like crossing a bar. It was where the sea went from 1,000m to 95m depth and we were getting badly thrown around from side to side and took a couple of nasty knocks to the side. It was horrible and we could see the waves breaking all around. Braveheart had got in closer and were in calm water. Seemed to take ages for us to get in there! We came up the channel to Puerta Princesa past the city and as we approached the Yacht Club a boat came out to lead us all in and told us where to anchor. We went ashore for a lovely welcome and some celebratory drinks – the first time on land for nine days!! Had a tasty meal for dinner.
Miles: 19 TTT: 1561
Monday 9 April – Puerto Princesa
We all went to town separately by trike and went to the supermarket. Four people can fit in a trike – one on the seat behind the driver and three in the cabin. We ran into Braveheart so we all went to lunch at Kaluis which is a really special place and we had the most amazing meal. Walking back we stopped and watched a parade which included bands of school children in their marching costumes. We managed to get a new starter motor battery and the skipper is testing our batteries to see which ones are cactus.
Tuesday 10 April – Peurto Princesa
We caught a trike to town with Cilantro and went to Immigration to finally check into the country! We were thinking we might get into trouble but we got 21 day visas and were told we would be charged 500 pesos ($12) when we check out. We walked to town and went to a travel agent to book our tour to the underground river at Sebang (which had been too rough to get into when we went up the coast) only to be told that it was booked out for the entire month of April!!! But if we did a walk in at the permit booking office we might get a permit. We went to lunch – great value and then Sandra and I waited for the 1pm opening of the office which opened at 1.20 and then we went in a huge crowd shoved along to a counter with four people sitting there but apparently we had to see the last person. Someone finally felt sorry for us and gave us a form to fill out – we had no idea what was going on or what we had to do. Then we waited and waited until we could give the form to the girl and she told us to sit down and wait. After a while Sandra went to see how long we had to wait cause I couldn’t sit in that crush any longer so the girl then said come back before 4pm which we did and we waited some more. I think one of the locals told the girl to process ours cause after half an hour or more Sandra suddenly had our four permits!! I was sitting out of the crowd – too claustrophobic for me! She was told she had done really well as most people there had been waiting since early morning The worst run office I have ever seen and the crush and the wait totally unnecessary! Would have loved to be able to sort that office out!!. Anyway we came back exhausted and had dinner on board.
Wednesday 11 April – Peurto Princesa
The boys went shopping (fishing lures) while we went to a travel agent and were told the underground river is booked out but when we said we had permits she phoned around to get us a tour and deducted the price of the permits from the tour. It was such a relief to know that we hadn’t got the permits in vain! So we are booked for next Wednesday. She also told us that whale sharks should start appearing near here next full moon. They haven’t sighted any yet. We met the boys and had lunch then did some shopping and had dinner at the yacht club.
Thursday 12 April – Peurto Princesa
Had a boat day while the skipper isolated four crook batteries and then went to the yacht club for dinner.
Friday 13 April – Peurto Princesa
Peter and Chris went to the battery place to see about getting new batteries. I continued into town and had a lovely time walking up and down every aisle in the two department stores and one supermarket. Met the skipper back at the Yacht Club then we went back in for dinner in the evening. Rubicon Star came in today.
Its nice to finally be able to buy what we need and have some down time. Braveheart will be here till their daughter flies in at the end of the month. We will stay until we wake up one day and know its time to go. Meanwhile we have exploring to do. Cant believe it is halfway through April already.
Love to you all.
Dell and Peter
Monday, April 9, 2012
WEEK 13–Balalacao Island to North Verde Island
11°27.506N / 119°48.307
Dawn is just breaking and we can hear music from the only hut we can see on the shore, the roosters are going off and we can hear the birds chirping. It is oh so still and there is a lone gecko calling. Our batteries are really fading – they cant hold the charge through the night and the fridge/freezer has to be turned off. We left at 7 and headed towards the bay reputed to have a Spanish fort. We went into the bay past the pearl farms and could see the reef on the port side but the sun was in the wrong place to see the starboard side. We went over a few shallow patches (!) and anchored in 17m but suddenly we were in 5m and could see bommies out the back of the boat so had to reanchor! Judy and Chris came to visit in the late afternoon. We didn’t see the Spanish fort!
Miles: 34 TTT: 1314
Sunday 1 April – Linapacan Island – Shark Fin Bay, Palawan Island
11°09.717N / 119°32.346E
Bravehart called up early to say they could see whale sharks outside and we were about to race up to see them when Cilantro came back and said the April fool didn’t fool them – sure fooled us but! We left about 7.15 and went over a very shallow patch which was a bit daunting and headed down to Calayanlayan Bay which we had heard was the pick of the bunch – which it was. Stunning islands with stunning beaches BUT either way too deep or reef – there was no in between. Such a shame as we could have spent a few days there. We left and went up the sheltered side of the islands but we could see a huge storm cell ahead and could see it on the radar. We went hell for leather up around the top of the island and headed away from it. We could see lightning striking the water 1 ½ miles away. We met up with Cilantro and Braveheart again and went slowly so the storm passed. We came into the only likely place we could see on the chart with depths to anchor. Were a bit nervous as there was reef and rocks marked on the chart and it was late in the afternoon but we could see the reef off the starboard side and had good depths all the way in and anchored beside a huge limestone karst just like in Thailand. Absolutely stunning. We could see a cave 1/3 of the way up the cliff with a tent and hammock in it and a little hut perched on the side of the cliff just over from where we are anchored. We suspect they are guarding the birds nests. We can also see a few eagles. There is a white patch on the rock just over from us which looks like a Sarawak warrior face and above it is another face. Check the photos out and see if you can see both. A truly stunning spot.
Miles: 42 TTT: 1356
Monday 2 April – Shark Fin Bay
The wind just blew all day and it was overcast so we had a boat day and Peter baked some bread. Just on dusk Braveheart called us to look at the bats and there was a great ribbon of bats leaving the island – Brilliant.
Tuesday 3 April – Shark Fin Bay – Maytigud Island
11°09.717N / 119°32.346E
It was a very calm morning so we took Bob and circumnavigated the island. There was quite a bit of coral on our side which looked really nice and on the other side the channel was very shallow with coral and weed. There were a few little huts scattered around the cliffs, some occupied, some old. We saw a really cool cave but there were oysters and not quite wide enough to get inside. Peter and Chris went to talk to the men on the birds nest platform – they were a bit reticent aft first – probably thought we were after the birds nests. Also they didn’t have much English. Its funny when you come in to anchor we sometimes think later maybe we could have gone in a bit closer but when the sun came out this morning and we could see the reef we knew we had been in the perfect position! There are lots of butterflies around the place again. We came out around some gorgeous islands with reef all around the loveliest emerald to aqua colour – beautiful. We then found ourselves among the pearl farms which were all higgledy piggledy. Two security guards in a boat came out and led Braveheart through and we all followed which was just as well as we didn’t know which way to go. Shortly after this just as we got to the last pearl farm raft Braveheart caught a net around their prop and Chris had to dive to get it off but it is damaged – will go forward but cant reverse. We came around some large karsts and into a sheltered bay. Its funny with reef – it just seems to pop up all over the place. There were lots of fish farm nets around but we all managed to find a spot to anchor in 17m. Chris towed one of the locals whose boat had broken down to shore. A quiet night.
Miles: 42 TTT: 1398
Wednesday 4 April – Maytigud Isl – Icadambanaun Isl
10°49.437N / 119°37.439E
We left at 8.15 and went past beautiful Apulit Island which had a resort on it and reef all around. It had a large cross on the cliff above it. Saw some scuba divers surface. We followed the shipping lane in towards Tay Tay hoping to get ashore. Tay Tay has a HUGE sign on the hill above the town saying – TAY TAY – of course! It was a bit rough and the channel a bit narrow so we chose not to try it and headed out to Icadambanauan Island. It was mid morning so we could clearly see all the beautiful reef – a very pretty island. We headed to the third bay which said 8m on the chart but we found 33m at that spot and the shallowest we found was 24m which was such a shame as it was a stunning bay. We then went through a channel between reef in the second bay and went through more reef into a duckpond with little houses all round. We did a circle and had just enough room to anchor but there was no room for error so we decided not to risk it and went to the fist bay where Cilantro were anchored in 19.8m. Four girls came by so we invited them on to see the boat, which they thought was pretty exciting. Could hear a pig screaming – had to block my ears – so awful! Later a man came by with his two young daughters and at first we thought he was trying to give them to us! Then we worked out he wanted us to give some bread for his daughters – to eat! Whew! Saw the fruit bats leave in the evening – a lovely calm anchorage.
Miles: 24 TTT: 1440
Thursday 5 April – Icadambanauan Island - Capayas nr Domaran Channel
10°29.426N / 119°41.528E
Saw the fruit bats return then left at 7am. Braveheart had left some time before us and they called up to say they couldn’t find a way through the pearl farms so we all had to go miles out and around a huge shallow patch and another island heading into quite a swell. Braveheart called again and said they had come across more pearl farms and were heading back and around where they had seen some local boats go. As we headed down there were pearl farms on both sides. Braveheart gave us a couple of way points to follow and also the lowest depth as our depth sounder had stopped working again. We came down between Palawan and an island, round the reef and more pearl farms then round another point with more pearl farms through some driving rain and anchored not far from a town with a very big church. The skipper is charging up our spare battery and the old starter battery with the generator - unfortunately the old starter battery is stuffed so that was a good idea which didn’t work out – oh well! A very tiring and slightly stressful day today – but at least it wasn’t boring! There is a bit of a swell coming in and we are rolling.
Miles: 28 TTT: 1468
Friday 6 April – Capayas – Nth Verde Island
10°07.201N 119°13.815E
The roll settled down and we had a surprisingly good night. We left around 7 and headed through the shallows and reef of Green Island Bay. We saw two dolphins ahead of us and they came and played around the bow of the boat for a while. We haven’t had that for such a long time. We caught a mackerel just as we were going past a lovely island. Our depth sounder stopped working after that so we followed Cilantro through the shallows. Our chart plotter was out as it showed we were on the island! Reef island had a resort on it. Braveheart dived on their prop but we misunderstood them and thought we couldnt stay so kept going - apparently we could have stayed so that was disappointing. We went over a couple of shallow patches – the depth sounder was working at this point – so headed to deeper water further off shore. It was getting late so headed in to the North Verde Island which is across the channel from Palawan main island. A big fish took the line but ended up breaking it off so there went another lure! Braveheart went in first and gave a coordinate to stay on the port side of as there was a sandbar to the right and fishtraps built on reef to the left and it was low tide!! If we’d had a choice at that point I don’t think we would have gone in but Bravehart were already in and waiting for us. Cilantro followed us in but what they didnt know was that to keep our depth sounder working we had to keep going into neutral then slow forward then neutral so they ended up very close behind us. The skipper kept the waypoint to starboard but all I could see on the port side as we went in were rocks right beside the boat – exhilarating to say the least!!! We then followed Cilantro up the channel as the depth sounder had stopped working. We anchored at 4.15 in 13m – it was so beautifully calm. Oh and just in case you think we are wimps I must explain that Braveheart have a google earth capacity on their chart plotter so even when the charts are out they can still see the lay of the land and reef so to speak. There was a small bat flying around the boat in the evening and it seems that one may have found its way into Braveheart – they are not sure but the haven’t found Count Basil yet!!!
Miles: 42 TTT: 1510
One thing I forgot to tell you after we got back from dinner at the resort at Puerto Del Sol last week was that the skipper dropped the rope to Bob before he could tie it off and of course Bob immediately started drifting away so it was a dark late night swim for the skipper to retrieve him!!
Hope you all have a Happy and Blessed Easter. Missing you
Love
Dell and Peter
Monday, April 2, 2012
WEEK 12- Halsey Harbour to Bulalacao Island
12°08.448N / 119°55.092E
The morning was very still. We still had some hopes that we would get our Halsey Harbour prawns but it was not to be! We followed our track out - its interesting that Cilantro and we both have Navionics Gold charts but Cilantro's showed land through the channel whereas ours showed the channel - weird. We had a bit of heavy rain along the way but the sea was calm and we anchored off Salvacion Town at 2.30 in 6m. We phoned Ruth after 8 (Aus time) and were thrilled to hear the results of the election - well done Queensland! Lets hope things improve now.
Miles: 32 TTT: 1220
Sunday 25 March - Salvacion Town
We went ashore around 10. You cant actually see the town until you round the cement jetty and head circuitously around to the next jetty (shallow). The little town was extremely tidy with footpath like roads and little sari sari stores. It had a nice school and a big flash municipal building. The skipper bought a bush knife to replace the one he gave away. It poured rain in the afternoon but had cleared by 4 so we took the dinghies up the river. It was very pretty and looked as though it should have had crocs but I think they ate them all years ago! In fact there were no animals. We did see 2 young caucasion ladies paddling on the river bank in the mud with two Filippino ladies so we stopped to see what they were doing. One of the girls was so excited to see us as she was a fellow Aussie from Coffs Harbour. They were catching crabs and mussels for their dinner. They were there doing some environmental work. We continued up the river under a bridge where a car driving across stopped and backed up to wave and get a better look. It was getting late and started to rain so we returned up the river under big brollies. There are dugongs around the boats. We had been hearing them breath and seeing the splash when they dived. We finally caught a glimpse of one when it surfaced just off the back of the boat and we saw a large pink and white body diving down.
Monday 26 March - Salvacion Town
We went ashore at 11 and walked to where the girls were staying but didn't find them so went back to a little bamboo hut restaurant and had lunch. The table decorations were pineapples which they grow so we all bought two. James and Chris took a trike to get some beer and as it had come up windy we went back to the boat. It was a long wet trip out. The wind really came up through the night.
Tuesday 27 March Salvacion Town - Peurto del Sol - Happy Birthday Debbie
We left after we called Debbie for her birthday and went through all the pretty islands heading for Coral Bay. We had to go through some pearl farms and we weren't entirely sure we could get through and our charts were out. But we made it through and took a buoy at Coral Bay and went in and bought our crab ashtray we wanted. We left straight away as the wind was coming up and we headed in to wind and current and were only doing 3.5 knots so decided to come in to Peurto Del Sol and took up a mooring. We ate ashore in the restaurant.
Miles: 20 TTT: 1240
Wednesday 28 March - Peurto del Sol - Coron Town
11°59.703N / 120°11.668E
Dan the American looking after his boss's rather large stink boat wanted moral support to take the boat around to get water so the skipper obliged and went with him. It was the first time Dan had handled the boat on his own. And the payment was seven cans of beer!! We left at 9 just as Dan and his crew left in the smaller motor boat. It was a lovely day - what a difference a day makes! As we came into the channel we saw a huge turtle - really clean - and it had two yellow fish with it. We arrived at Coron town (3 hours) just as Dan and his crew were leaving. They had been in and got their supplies while we were still coming! We anchored behind Cilantro and Braveheart who had struggled up in the bad weather yesterday. We went ashore to shop and had lunch at the Coron Bistro - Italian sausages - yum! We were back on board late in the afternoon when the Skipper thought he saw a shark's fin off our starboard bow. We went forward for a look and it turned out to be five white-spotted Eagle Rays all around 1 ½ - 2 metres across. They were gorgeous and we pointed them out to a local bangka hurrying past and they slowed to see what we were pointing at and they were so excited when they saw them. One of those magic moments.
Miles: 17 TTT: 1257
Thursday 29 March - Coron Town
Went to the market early and got provisions then the boys took the jerries to get the diesel. We all then went to the Coron Bistro for - you guessed it - sausages!! It was late by the time we got back and it was a quiet night on board.
Friday 30 March - Coron Town - Bulalacao Island
11°45.604N / 120°10.877E
We waited for Braveheart to get back with their engine parts then we left at 10. We headed up to Coron Island and motored along the side of the island. Its a most unusual island - big with limestone cliffs and jungly and really pretty. On the inside of it are a few lagoons and a large lake. Apparently one of the lagoons is good for diving.(scuba). There were the odd little narrow beaches, the odd fishermen's huts and it was lovely. Then we headed across to Bulalacao Island. We are finally heading south. We know there is a typhoon in the South China sea heading towards Vietnam but that wont affect us. We go down the East coast of Palawan. Didnt mention last time we were here the crew hooked a rather large stingray - luckily it broke the line. Today is was sunny coming in and we could see all the reef and it was really pretty. It was too early to go to bed so we watched a movie and when we came up at 9pm it was so still you could see the hills reflected in the water - so lovely - we could also hear the geckos calling - they are the big variety and they really do call out ge-cko. A squall hit us through the night but didn't last long.
Miles: 23 TTT: 1280
At last it feels like we are on the move again - heading south down the East coast of Palawan this time. Hope all is well with you.
Miss you
Dell and Peter
XXXX
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Sunday, March 25, 2012
WEEK 11 –Puerto del Sol Resort to Halsey Harbour
We started the week by celebrating Chris’ birthday.
Sunday 18 March – Puerto del Sol – Coron Town
11°59.739N / 120°11.614E
At Tangatt Island we snorkelled over a Japanese gun boat which was really great. The bow of the boat was in about 3m and the stern in plus 10m with all coral and bits growing on it.. The coral on the drop off was good too. It was the first time it made us feel that we would like to dive. There were a couple of divers there obviously learners and it looked kind of good. We had to anchor in 24m of water to be able to get to the wreck so it was a day stop only. There is another wreck that is fairly shallow but we haven’t been able to get in there. Then headed back to Coron Town
Monday 19 March – Coron Town to Culion Town
11°53.163N 120°01.454E
We motored to Culion Town. This was the biggest leper colony in the world which opened in 1906 started by the Americans. For the next fifty plus years, until a cure was found and administered to all, lepers from all over the Philippines were rounded up and placed on the island. There, research and treatment were carried out by dedicated doctors and staff. One of the American doctors refused to leave and died on the island at the age of 82. But until a cure was found being sent to Culion Island meant being taken from their families and living a life in exile. Of the first 860 sent there, 265 died within a few months. Today the large hospital is still in use as a general hospital and they have an interesting leprosy museum which still even has the microscope slide samples of the lepers and equipment. It seems that when people were eventually allowed to leave the island most people stayed and were joined by their families and loved ones so most of the people there today are ex-lepers and descendents of the lepers. We spent an interesting afternoon exploring the place. It has lots of old timber houses and big trees and a hill right in the middle with little lanes winding up it. There is a big renovated Spanish Church on top of the hill and a great big medical sign carved into the side of another hill with a big statue of the American (Wade) who started the whole thing.
Miles: 13 TTT: 1156
Tuesday 20 March – Culion Town – Bulalacao Island
11°45.618N / 120°10.887E
Left at 10 and motored to Bulalacao Island on the west side which was gorgeous – lovely white sand beach, good looking coral but it was too deep to anchor for the night so we had to go around the other side and anchored in 15m on coral rubble in an uninspiring anchorage with mangroves. Still night though.
Miles: 21 TTT: 1177
Wednesday 21 March – Bulalacao Island – Halsey Harbour
11°47.436N 119°57.910E
Departed at 8.30 and headed for Ditaytayan Island but it was a bit deep and because the depths were all over the place we presumed we were over coral so decided not to risk anchoring. On shore was a private property sign. We followed Braveheart through a channel between two islands which was very pretty but it started to rain as we went through so headed to the shelter of Halsey Harbour – it bucketed down. We saw Cilantro lose a bit of foam from their boat so we went to retrieve it – took four goes – our man overboard skills could do with some work! Came into the harbour and it was very deep but managed to find 16m in the NW arm. The fishermen sold Braveheart some prawns but we missed out. We had heard such a lot about the Halsey Harbour prawns!!
Miles: 32 `TTT: 1188
Thursday 22 March – Halsey Harbour
Happy Birthday Jean (WDTW)
Cilantro had to work on their engine so we stayed put. The skipper cleaned the stainless and the crew made a birthday cake for Judy off Braveheart – It was a rather flat chocolate cake as we only have all purpose flour!!
Friday 23 March – Halsey Harbour- Happy 60th Birthday Judy
And we finished the week by celeb rating Judy’s (Braveheart) birthday.
The wind was still blowing pretty hard so we decided to stay put. The crew decorated the birthday cake and made a damper (also flat with the all purpose flour) but delicious! The skipper watched The Last Samurai and then Cilantro collected us in their dinghy at 3pm and we went to Braveheart to celebrate Judy’s 60th birthday. There was plenty of good food – Cilantro even brought out the good cheese they had been harbouring since KK!! Judy made a lasagne and we all managed to keep ourselves fully amused till way after dark! Good food, good company, good music and a good time was had by all!!!
We are thrilled to hear the election results and just have to say good on you Queensland!!!! We are floating around up here – slowly heading up and around the islands to the north of the big Palawan island and will slowly make our way back down towards Puerto Princessa. Hope all are well. Take care. Miss you all. Hope Rosie is not aging too quickly.
Love
Dell and Peter
Friday, March 23, 2012
WEEK 10 -Puerto del Sol Resort & back again
We walked the 4km to Concepcion Town along a dusty old road. We visited the Pier House and were shown all their lovely rooms. They had a lot of furniture made out of lacquered drift wood and bits of trees etc - very effective. Even the 'fish' behind the bar was driftwood and the art was done by the Swedish owner's father. We then had lunch at a local restaurant and the vegetable curry was one of the best meals so far. We saw a waterfall and then walked back. Along the way we saw some tiny piglets which were just a few days old. We had a drink at the bar (to pay for the mooring!) then sundowners on Braveheart.
Sunday 11 March - Puerto Del Sol - Coron town
11°59.780N / 120°11.776E
We dropped the mooring at 8.15 and headed past lots of islands - its almost like being in fjiords - past heaps of pearl farms and then up the channel to Coron Town. Some of the islands we passed we will come back to but for now we need some supplies and money - the first ATM we have come to in the Philippines! Anchored at 1.20 - at least we anchored four times but that is another story!! Explored the town which is a reasonable size but there is no supermarket and it is more expensive than El Nido. They just have sari sari stores some of which you have to stand at the counter and tell them what you want. Went out to dinner at the mermaid restaurant on the water which belongs to Mike's (Puerto del Sol) daughter. A really nice meal. Cilantro found themselves too close to some bangkas so they reanchored in the dark.
Miles: 18 TTT: 1104
Tuesday 13 March - Coron Town
Went to the market, got the diesel and had haircuts - $3.25 and they are great haircuts. Met Gunther and Maria off Mana Mana and had dinner with them. At the top of the hill in Coron is a big cross which is lit at night and looks really good. On a smaller hill Coron is spelt out like hollywood!!
Wednesday 14 March - Coron Town
Happy Birthday Brian
Spent some time shopping then had lunch at the Coron Bistro where we met a lovely Canadian lady and another bloke who had been at Concepcion Town when we had been there who told us they have guards on islands as it is easy for people to go ashore and claim and register the land then it takes years in the courts and the locals don't have the money to fight it - don't know if thats true but there certainly seems to be something going on with the land up here. Cilantro moved around the corner out of the wind. We had a black and white banded sea snake sunning itself on the back transom -a most unwelcome visitor!!
Thursday 15 March - Coron Town - Puerto Del Sol
About 8am our anchor dragged and we were going out backwards at a great rate of knots so upanchored in the wind and went around the corner to put Bob on board and then we all headed to Puerto del Sol in 25 - 30kn winds where we all picked up a mooring again.
Miles: 19 TTT: 1123
Friday 16 March - Puerto del Sol
Took the dinghies up the river late in the afternoon. Interesting trip and went as far as we could and there was a mob of workers up there had been cutting bamboo and were having their knock off drinks - they offered us some San Miguel gin! We declined. On the way back in the dark we hit a net which stopped us instantly. Bob's nose went down and we stopped!! The skipper had to cut the net off the prop. Felt pretty bad for the fisherman.
All the best
D&P
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Monday, March 12, 2012
WEEK 9 –Corong Corong to Busuanga Island
Boring boat day –Peter went to the early market. We all went out to dinner at 5.30 and had our order taken by a young boy of about 10. After that we went to a bar which was supposed to have live music from 7.30 but it didn’t start till 8.30 and yachties’ midnight (9pm) was looming so we caught a trike back to the yachts. Two young Lads (one of whom was Jennell) were keen to help us put Bob in the water so we told them they could come out to the boat tomorrow. I had mistakenly thought that they were kids off the little fishing canoes.
Sunday 4 March – Corong Corong
We didn’t go ashore till 3ish and here was Jennell waiting for us. His little mate had to go fishing with his dad. We went to town and back then went ashore again meaning to walk around the beach but there was little Jennell again so we got him to take us to his Dad to ask permission for him to come out to the boat. He took us to the old thatched hut which was on quite a lean built right on the beach. The hut had three small rooms next to each other and a family lived in each room. Jennell had 2 sisters and 2 brothers with the oldest sister (18) living in Cebu (a long way away). The youngest sister was 4 and Jennell is 12. His father was happy for him to come out so we took him to the boat and showed him around and explained how everything worked. Turned out the kids in the canoes came from the other end of the beach and weren’t his friends. When it came time to go ashore he wanted to start the motor and it took all his strength to do it then we let him drive Bob. He had obviously been watching the skipper on the way out as he knew what to do and was a natural. He took us all the way back in no worries at all. We gave him some pencils and books and walked with him back to his house and said hullo to his Mum. As we were leaving he came racing back and gave us three lovely shells. We then had sundowners on Braveheart where Judy had the smoker going trying to make ham – didn’t turn out too badly!
Monday 5 March – Corong Corong – Diapila Bay
11°24.513N / 119°28.548
We went to shore and Jennell met us so we gave him a photo of himself driving Bob – he has a gorgeous big smile. Jennel’s father passed us just after 7 after being out the whole night fishing. We upanchored at 10 and found we had a hessian bag on the anchor. By the time we had examined and exclaimed over it we had drifted to shore in 3.5m so a quick about turn and on our way. As we left the tip of Palawan a pigeon circled around and tried to land in the cockpit then thought better of it and headed for land. Motor sailed the long way round to Diapila Bay and once again the wind howled all night – not conducive to a good night’s sleep!
Miles: 24 TTT: 1015
Tuesday 6 March – Diapila Bay - Linapacan Isle, NW Bay
11°27.695N / 119°47.015
We left at 7 and had a very slow trip beating into the winds and he waves and we suspect the current. It wasn’t terribly rough or anything just very slow under motor doing 2000 revs and averaging 3.5 knots. Copped a few waves over the top and did a bit of dodging! We arrived at NW Bay around 1 – a very deep bay with reef all round and of course as soon as we went in there our depth sounder stopped working. We passed two rafts about a mile apart with lots of buoys between. We wondered if they were pearls. Cilantro headed down one bay and found 10m and we followed Braveheart past the town and found 19m. The vegetation on the island has changed. More shrubby than jungle. Had such a calm night you wouldn’t have known you were on a boat – a beautiful calm night.
Miles: 23 TTT: 1038
Wednesday 7 March – Linapacan – nr Coral Bay
11°58.925N / 119°53.026E
We left at 7 and followed Cilantro out and conditions were really good for sailing so up went the sails and the motor went off! A real sail at last. Came in to Coral Bay but was a bit blustery so we headed up to another island with a lovely sandspit beach and coconut palms. We anchored just before the reef and Chris went ashore. He was met by a security guard (dayshift) who was there to make sure no one landed on the island. We figured he must have been pretty scary as Chris didn’t even notice the three dogs there! The security guard left late in the afternoon with his gun slung across his shoulder! And the night shift came in with his gun slung across his shoulder. It was an idyllic picture with a full moon above the tropical island. The water was just like glass – just gorgeous
Miles: 38 TTT: 1076
Thursday 8 March – Coral Bay, Poppototan Island
Stuart and Jean have a wonderful holiday
11°59.542N / 119°51.452E
We came back down to Coral Bay and anchored off the resort. The anchor chain got trapped in the anchor pipe which necessitated the skipper pulling the whole winch off to free it – took quite a while. We then joined the others ashore. The reef here belongs to the resort so they have protected it so it hasn’t been dynamited or cyanided. The fishermen cyanide the fish so they can catch them alive. The Koreans pay more for live ones. It is 2,800 pesos pp to stay here which includes 3 meals a day - $67 each – not bad value. But the beers are $2 each instead of 50C! We went for a snorkel and were surprised at how many and varied the fish life was. The coral was pretty good and had quite a bit of colour. Went to the resort for dinner – very nice smorgasbord – three courses $12 each. Monica and Olf (Swedish) have been there for seven years and they are the owners. Their website is www.coralbay.ph
Miles: 2 TTT: 1078
Friday 9 March – Coral Bay – Puerto Del Sol Resort, Busuanga Island
12°01.478N / 119°58.988E
When we arrived at the little inlet a boat came out and put us all on moorings. They moved a big local boat to fit us in. The irony of it is it is shallow enough to anchor here – 8m! Came past heaps of pearl farms – long lines of floats. We went ashore, past the pool and found Mike the owner in the restaurant. Seemed if we had a beer or a meal we wouldn’t have to pay a mooring fee and we were happy to oblige. Mike was a fountain of information. His resort has only been there four years. We went across the bay to the ‘lighthouse’ – strange building on top of a hill. The owner showed us all around and proudly showed us all the rooms. It has been built in two seasons and parts were still under construction but was open for business. It has the most stunning views and probably the best place ever to watch a sunset and the Chilean red wine was also very nice! We went back to Mike’s resort in the dark and had dinner on the terrace overlooking the pool – lovely. While there is no beach here there is an emphasis on diving. There are quite a few wrecks of Japanese ships sunk on 24th September 1944. www.puertodelsolresort.com
Miles: 8 TTT: 1086
We have been out of phone and internet range for a little while. We are in what is known as the Calamanian Group of Islands. It is really hard to picture the activity which went on here during the Second World War – it is such a peaceful place but there is much evidence of the war under the water here and a few relics in some of the bars etc. Anyway we really miss you all.
Take care
Dell and Peter
Saturday, March 3, 2012
WEEK 8 –Corong Corong
Went early to the big market (held Sats & Weds) and bought some pork and fruit and veg. The crew couldn’t walk through the meat section as it was all pigs heads and legs and horrible things! Braveheart and Cilantro went to town to try to organise us a tour while we tried to get our fridge/freezer working again, which we did eventually – yay! We joined the others in town and they had found us a tour. All the tours and prices are fixed by the Government and all the tours are Tour A, B, C & D but we wanted to do a couple of places from both A and B. Braveheart found Servant Tours who were willing to do what we wanted so we had a “private tour”. If you were staying here for any length of time (recommended) you would probably do them all. We checked out the boat – named Servant and paid our money - $16 per head including lunch! Found a local eating place and got a meal in a plastic bag (takeaway) and came back to the boat.
Sunday 26 Feb – Corong corong
A perfectly calm day for our tour. We caught a trike to town and piled on our boat with three lovely male crew and headed to Minaloc Island and the Secret Beach. This can only be entered in calm conditions so we swam through a hole in the rock and entered a “hong” – really lovely with towering very jagged cliffs. Then we went to a little beach where our lovely crew cooked us a scrumptious lunch(barbequed fish and chicken and rice,veges and fruit) and then we went past the shrine but didn’t go ashore. It was a house and church etc built by a politician who didn’t get re-elected and he ran out of money(!) and gave it up so now it doesn’t even have a caretaker. Then we went to Big Lagoon which was very shallow and just wide enough for two bangkas to pass (in and out) and we circled around the lagoon and went out – very beautiful. In the lagoon is an anchored platform (small) which is used for guests of the resort to have a special dinner (big enough for a small table). The resort is around $250 a night. We anchored outside the lagoon and had a snorkel and then went around to small lagoon and anchored inside it. We swam through the rock into another lagoon then Chris and I swam further in to see what was around the corner. We sat on a rock contemplating if it was worth swimming to the end when our guide Nel joined us and pointed out a small cave on the opposite side so we swam over and went in and found an underwater rock to sit on in the centre of the cave. There was an opening in the top and Nel told us the swiftlets used to live in there and 3grms of birds nest fetched 6,000 pesos but in 2000 when all the tourists started to come the birds moved somewhere else. It was a very special feeling being the only ones in there. Apparently in the mornings when Tour A comes in it is crowded (best to do the tours in reverse!). We returned at 4pm after a great day out.
Monday 27 Feb – Corong Corong
Well how lucky were we yesterday. Today is windy so don’t really want to leave the boats – quiet boat day.
Tuesday 28 Feb – Corong Corong
Very bored so took Bob around the point intending to go to a beach but there was a bit of a swell on the beach so we went to town instead. As we were walking in the crew stopped to take a photo which was really provident as a coconut fell and landed two metres to the left and behind the skipper! Round about where I would have been!! People walk along there all the time! We had lunch and got some supplies then adjourned to Braveheart to discuss the next move. There are now eight yachts in the bay.
Wednesday 29 Feb – Corong Corong – Diapila Bay
11°24.503N / 119°28.543E
Went to the market at 7 for supplies then had to hurry back to the boat as it had started to rain and we had left the hatch open. Upanchored at 9am and had quite a good sail to a little bay just before the top of Palawan. We had some gusts of wind on the way which heeled us right over. We arrived at 1pm having dodged the odd stick sticking out of nowhere and big buoys just beneath the surface in the bay. There were some huge fishing boats in the bay and we could hear a rooster crowing from the boats. The wind was really howling but the anchorage was ok. The wind howled all night – a horrible sound and music from the shore thumped all night so we didn’t get a lot of sleep!
Miles: 19 TTT: 971
Thursday 1 March – Diapila Bay – Corong Corong
11°10.068N / 119°23.605E
We left at 6.45 with the wind still howling but it was pretty rough and we weren’t making a lot of headway so we turned back and went all the way back toCorong Corong. We anchored at 11am. Very calm with sharp bullets of wind. Turned into another boat day just reading.
Miles: 20 TTT: 991
Friday – 2 March – Corong Corong
Read a book in the morning which was an awesome read called Facing the Frozen Ocean by Bear Grylls – couldn’t put it down. The skipper fixed the generator – he had broken the starter cord. We are having trouble with our house batteries not holding the charge and are afraid we need new ones – sourcing them may be a problem! We went ashore at 2.30 and took Judy off Braveheart and did some shopping then had a pleasant evening on board watching a movie.
And here we are sitting out a blow and will probably be here for a few more days yet waiting on the weather. Its one of those times when you are supposed to do all the maintenance on the boat but somehow never quite feel like doing!!
Hope you are all well. Stuart and Jean enjoy your trip and take time out to smell the roses (or the apples as the case may be!!).
Stay safe
A little less wind would be good.
Love
Dell and Peter
Monday, February 27, 2012
WEEK 7 –Limancong Town to Corong Corong
Went to town in the morning – the people are so welcoming and the children are gorgeous. Bought a few supplies and checked the place out. Watched some people playing mah jong. They asked me to play but I am not in their league. Chris met a Jehovah lass who promptly gave him a Watchtower booklet. Asked after beer in another store only to be told that he is muslim! Peter got 200 litres of diesel in the jerries ($1.30/litre). Judy and Chris came over to discuss our internet woes and had a sundowner. We can see lights in some of the houses – most don’t have electricity and some are lit by kerosene lanterns.
Sunday 19 Feb – Limancong Town
Went to town to go to the market at 7 but it turned out we were a bit early. Most of the little stores were open but the wet market only had a few small fish. We sorted out our internet and by then we were able to buy some pork at the market. It poured rain all day. Our water tank is full, the water jerries and buckets are full and the skipper is lamenting about all the water going to waste!
Monday 20 Feb – Limancong Town to Bario Pancol, Malampaya Sound
10°52.000N / 119°24.781E
Braveheart pulled their anchor up but had three other unattached local anchors, an octopus and nets and other varied bits and pieces of rubbish. It took them quite some time to clear it with Cilantro’s assistance. They proceeded to the fuel dock and when they got back at 11 the sun had come out so we upanchored and headed up the Strait. There were lots of school kids in little canoes crossing to their homes. We motored up Marampay Sound past islands and then fishtraps and sticks and dropped the anchor around 3.45 in 4.3m. We can see a big house on the hill and the road to Tay Tay behind. The village is at the foot of the hill. We watched a fisherman pull in his line which had nets attached to it at regular intervals. It seemed he was getting crabs and tying them up but they didn’t look very big.
Miles: 5 TTT: 627
Tuesday 21 Feb - Bario Pancol, Malampaya Sound
We went ashore and noticed something moving in a small bangka (local boat) and it turned out to be twos trussed pigs. The locals carried the pig away upside down on a poleover the shoulder of two men. We were directed up the street to the main road so we could go to TayTay which used to be the capital of Paliwan and is on the East Coast. We waited for the bus opposite a shelter where a man was giving haircuts. Eventually a small van stopped for us and the six of us piled in. It cost 50 pesos each ($1.30) and it took half an hour to get to Tay Tay. The scenery was interesting as there were lots of rice paddies. Men were tilling the paddies with small ploughs pulled by water buffalo. It was a cement road to the edge of our village and then it was dirt all the way. We got dropped at the bus station then caught a trike to Tay Tay town. We walked around the waterfront to the Spanish fort built in 1667 and sat in the little church in the centre of the fort. We then had a tasty lunch at Penn’s restaurant, did some shopping in the little stores and then back to the bus station where they seemed to be waiting for us and piled us into the van and we were back by 2.30 – a great adventure and then sundowners on Braveheart.
Wednesday 22 Feb – Bario Pancol – Largenn Island
11°04.767N / 119°23.913E
The clouds over the hills came down to met the smoke from the cooking fires. We left at 7am and followed our track back out past the sticks and fishtraps. Amost ran over one marked by a tiny bit of white float – with a long rope attached! Passed Liminacong Town and the skipper caught a small mackerel. Fish for dinner! Then we came around into Bacuit Bay which is beautiful – full of limestone karsts a little similar to Thailand. We anchored in a small bay on Largenn Island and took Bob to another island about 1k away and went into Cathedral Cave. We were lucky and caught it between tour boats so motored in and had a look. It is a small cave but the walls tower above you and it really does look like a cathedral. As the tour boats with outriggers are all a bit big their guests have to swim in. We had a barbeque on the beach to finish the day and ate the fish we had all caught and some pretty good salads followed by a spud cooked in the coals. What a great day.
Miles: 26 TTT: 939
Thursday 23 Feb – Largenn Island – Corong Corong Town
Wow – waking up to perfectly calm water with huge cliffs towering above. Beautiful spot. Motor sailed across the bay to the Lagoons where we were hoping to anchor but it was gusting on to a lee rock shore and it was way too deep for us to anchor. We headed to Corong Corong in blustery conditions and anchored at 11.50 in 11m. This is a bit like Phi Phi Don in Thailand must have been 20 years ago with El Nido town a short 20 min walk across to a bay on the opposite side of the headland. There is a little village of atap huts ashore here with a few resorts further round the bay and lots of bangkas anchored on shore. In the afternoon we walked across to El Nido which is the laid back tourist town and after checking the place out had dinner and then walked back to Corong Corong.
Miles: 13 TTT: 952
Friday 24 Feb – Corong Corong
We got up early and went to the market. They didn’t have much there but we managed to get two sweetlip fish. Had a boat day and Braveheart joined us for sundowners while Cilantro went to town for dinner.
Well we have finally arrived at the good part of the trip and it is a pretty amazing part of the world and we would highly recommend it if you are looking for somewhere different to go – Katie! By the way check out the new links on the right hand side. You may see someone you know!
Anyway, hope you are all good. Missing everyone - love to Rosie too
Much love
Dell and Peter