Saturday 19 May – Tiga – Labuan
05⁰16.470N / 115⁰14.320
Left Tiga at 6am. Seas very calm but swelly with no wind. Gadfly had an hour’s start on us but we passed him before we got to Labuan. A gentle motor sail. There were heaps of ships outside the harbour and as we went in a huge tug came bearing down on us – we had to put on a spurt of speed to get out of his way. He grabbed a ship at the dock and had him out of there and on his way so quick. There were only two other yachts there and they looked like permanents on buoys. We anchored and tried to hail down a water taxi. Gadfly went into the marina but was sent out again. They have been working on it for ages but it is still not finished or they still have a problem with it. Jai picked us up for 1RM (3RM = $1) each and we did some shopping and had dinner but then we couldn’t get back. None of the other taxi drivers wanted to know us unless we paid 10RM each. We noticed Joe Bro who has taken us in the past so he took us back. We sat on board watching all the traffic going by – the car ferries, two huge barges pushed by tugs went past in the dark. So much happening.
Miles: 43 TTT: 1976
Sunday 20 – Mon 21 May – Labuan
Just did supply shopping – this is the duty free island and had lunch at the Indian restaurant – Choice – fantastic food. We then went back later to collect a takeaway for dinner. Jai knocks off at 6 so we always got back before that. We did two trips a day with Jai and when we had packages we always tipped him more. He really looked after us. Getting on and off Jai’s boat was always fraught with danger. He would bring his boat in till it was almost touching ours – we would throw all the gear on our boat and then climb off his up on to ours – felt like an old woman (the skipper took great delight in pointing out that I am an old woman!!!). Cilantro came in Tuesday. We actually had a dolphin around the boat despite the rubbish which tends to wash out from under the water village at high tide.
Tues 22 May – Labuan – Jeffri’s Brunei
04⁰56.975N / 114⁰48.791E
Left around 8 and headed down to Jeffri’s wall – a long day of motor sailing. There were a few local boats around – very friendly and we could see a police launch over by the shore. It left just on dark and didn’t bother us. We could hear the mosque service later so we figured that some royal personage must have been in residence. A lovely calm night as always.
Wed 23 May - Jefri’s – Kuala Belait Brunei
04⁰34.856N / 114⁰11.343E
When we left there were buoys with fish nets attached everywhere and boats buzzing around checking them all so it was a bit of a zigzag to get out. We did well for a while then had current against us and as we got closer to the two stone walls we go between to get into the river we had wind against tide so it was a bit rough going in. We had to move right over near the river bank to pass a large boat coming out. We must have done alright because he gave us the thumbs up. We had a large survey boat coming up behind us and he called us up on the radio to tell us he would pass us on our port side. We went up the river and anchored opposite the Immigration building in 2.9m of mud. We sat and watched all the big oil rig service boats come in and were amazed at how many there were and how well they handled their boats in the fast flowing current.
Miles: 46 TTT: 2057
Thurs 24 May – Kualah Belait – Miri marina
04⁰23.093N / 113⁰58.354E
We waited till 6.10am to leave hoping that all the big boats would leave early. We followed two big ones out and the big survey boat followed us out and waved as he left. We motor sailed and arrived at the marina at 1.10pm on a pretty high tide which was just as well as it is quite shallow coming in. We were heading for a berth further in when the skipper changed his mind and went for a closer one (and better one). We left our turn a bit late and had to do some to-ing and fro-ing and Phil the Yank took our lines. So here we are tied up at Miri marina after doing 2,092 nautical miles on our trip to the Philippines and 13,151 nautical miles since we left home.
Miles: 35 TTT: 2092
Fri – 25 May – Miri Marina
We will be tied up here in Miri for the next six weeks or so to get our paperwork organised and the boat and ourselves ready for the long trip home – something like 4,000 nautical miles and we average 5 nautical miles an hour!! Cilantro came in just after lunch. We are going to eat out as much as we can as it is only a couple of dollars each and we wont be able to afford it when we get back home! One of the definite advantages of being here is the cheap food. There are some boats here long term as they say they cannot afford to return home and can live here very well. In case you think we are sitting in luxury all there is here is a small tin shed with four toilets with showers and cold water but it is all we need as it is very hot. There is a great big bin for the rubbish and we have been told there are two cobras (4 ft and 5 ft) living under it to catch the rats so guess who isn’t taking the garbage out!! Every Friday night is a social night and everyone meets on the board walk at dusk when the sun goes down for drinks and nibblies and conversation.
My hard drive died but I have the computer up and running again now so hopefully I will be able to put some photos up over the next few weeks. Meanwhile we will be working hard to get everything in order. The plan is to leave her on 14th July, haul out in Kudat on 26th July to antifoul and leave Malaysia around 26th August and travel across the top of Sulawesi, Indonesia to come into Gove early November.
Dont forget Amy’s Killer Queen show in aid of the Cancer Fund on at the Tivoli Theatre on 28th July. We cant make it but it would be good if you could!
Take care
Much love
Dell and Peter
Thursday, May 31, 2012
Saturday, May 19, 2012
Week 19 -Balabac Town - Pulau Tiga
Sat 12 May - Balabac - Clarendon Bay
07°48.964N / 117°01.236E
We left at 7am and motor sailed down the coast of Balabac Island to Clarendon Bay. There were heaps of logs, branches, sticks and leaves etc and we did a fine old zigzag trying to avoid them. Couldnt avoid them all and gave one a glancing blow. We arrived at Clarendon Bay at 10.45 and Cilantro came in about an hour later. There were quite a few large turtles around. We had to avoid reef on the way in and then true to form it started pouring rain. During a break in the rain an old man came out paddling his little green canoe against the wind and he wanted to trade some bananas. It started to rain so we got him on board. He was cold and wanted something warm. We found an old long sleeve shirt, some shorts, a hat, sugar, rice and whatever else we could give him. He was 70 years old. He then went to Cilantro to get some eye drops and medicines. We had visits from two others and gave some rope for the cows and whatever else we could find. They always came with something to trade- we like the casava...The old man warned us there were large crocodiles around though they leave humans alone and only take goats and dogs! James decided not to dive on his prop! The canoes they have here are very simple with no outriggers, very low to the water and don't look terribly stable.
Miles: 15 TTT: 1758
Sun 13 May - Clarendon Bay
Happy Mother's Day
Well no internet and no phone coverage. We were hoping to get to the lighthouse on the top of the hill today. Took the dinghies down towards the mangroves where there was supposed to be a coral jetty but the only path we could see was in through the mangroves and given the crocodile situation we decided against that. Also if the tide went out we would have to pull the dinghies through mud through the mangroves. We tried to get in near the palm trees where the old man said to go but it was too shallow and the bush looked a bit thick anyway. So decided to give it a miss. Its very windy.
Mon 14 May - Clarendon Bay
It blew a gale through the night and we were hoping to leave for Borneo at 6am but there were huge seas out there and we could see the big ships going past almost disappearing in the waves. One supertanker that went past was going from Saudi Arabia to America with a load of crude oil and he had a 22 metre draft! The wind blew all day. A man with a couple of kids came out again and wanted some rope for his cow and traded some kang kong - a green leaf water plant. It took ages to wash it and look for bugs! He got some pretty good rope though. Once again it is blowing a gale and raining-I really hate the wind. In the middle of the night we heard a bang and dived out of bed and threw the spreader lights on and looked through the windows- we didn't go out. Couldnt see anything but the next day we found the bunch of bananas had fallen down and landed on the deck!!!
Tues 15 May - Clarendon Bay
The weather has finally cleared but the seas still look a bit rough so we will spend another day here. Our dear old man brought us out some large shells and wanted to sell them for money so he could buy some coffee and sugar. We gave him a little bit of coffee and 100 pesos and just took the small shell. He was insisting we take them all but we explained we couldn't bring them back to Australia.
Wed 16 May - Clarendon Bay - Malaysia
07°16.096N / 116°59.228E
At last we finally are on the way. A little bit swelly but not too bad. We motor sailed to Balambangan Island and anchored at 3pm. We thought we were clever before we left Malaysia and purchased money cards to top up our phone and internet but the sim cards have expired! We have been having a daily HF radio sked to keep in contact with other boats. We changed the courtesy flag from the Philippines to Malaysian which is pretty ragged - don't think it will last the distance.
Miles: 37 TTT: 1795
Thurs 17 May - Balambangan I to Ambong
06°18.448N / 116°18.060E
We left at 6am and headed down and past the tip of Borneo. We were going to stop at Agal Bay but we got there at lunch time and Cilantro called up and said they were going to try for Ambong as they want to get to KK asap as they have run out of cooking gas. We had an extremely long day motor sailing and running the revs at 2,500 and got to the entrance to Ambong just as the sun went down - a 12 ½ hr day! It was still light when we anchored but Cilantro came in a bit later in the dark. We are under the lee of the impressive Kota Kinabulu mountain. 4000+ m high
Miles: 76 TTT: 1871
Fri 18 May - Ambong - Pulau Tiga
5°44.951N / 115°40.768E
Started at 6am and had some good wind for a while but as we neared KK it dropped off. There is a fish up here like a pike which races along upright on its tail, flops down and then races on its tail again and it goes for quite a distance. Looks like it is walking on water - really makes us laugh. We made it to the sandspit near Tiga by 3.30 but it was a bit choppy so went around to the other side of Tiga near the resort but the yacht in there was really rolling. Choppy beats rolly any day so we went back around to the sandspit and anchored at 5.30. So we made the day a bit longer for ourselves than we needed.
Miles: 62 TTT: 1933
A lot of the Filippino people we met were extremely poor but they just seem so happy and are independent and not looking for handouts as our last experience with them showed. They are just a really gorgeous people. Their families and their religion are very important to them and it was a real pleasure to meet them and we are very grateful for their hospitality.
We will be in Miri marina in about a week and then we can look at getting my computer fixed.
Take care all
Much love
Dell and Peter
----------
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for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
07°48.964N / 117°01.236E
We left at 7am and motor sailed down the coast of Balabac Island to Clarendon Bay. There were heaps of logs, branches, sticks and leaves etc and we did a fine old zigzag trying to avoid them. Couldnt avoid them all and gave one a glancing blow. We arrived at Clarendon Bay at 10.45 and Cilantro came in about an hour later. There were quite a few large turtles around. We had to avoid reef on the way in and then true to form it started pouring rain. During a break in the rain an old man came out paddling his little green canoe against the wind and he wanted to trade some bananas. It started to rain so we got him on board. He was cold and wanted something warm. We found an old long sleeve shirt, some shorts, a hat, sugar, rice and whatever else we could give him. He was 70 years old. He then went to Cilantro to get some eye drops and medicines. We had visits from two others and gave some rope for the cows and whatever else we could find. They always came with something to trade- we like the casava...The old man warned us there were large crocodiles around though they leave humans alone and only take goats and dogs! James decided not to dive on his prop! The canoes they have here are very simple with no outriggers, very low to the water and don't look terribly stable.
Miles: 15 TTT: 1758
Sun 13 May - Clarendon Bay
Happy Mother's Day
Well no internet and no phone coverage. We were hoping to get to the lighthouse on the top of the hill today. Took the dinghies down towards the mangroves where there was supposed to be a coral jetty but the only path we could see was in through the mangroves and given the crocodile situation we decided against that. Also if the tide went out we would have to pull the dinghies through mud through the mangroves. We tried to get in near the palm trees where the old man said to go but it was too shallow and the bush looked a bit thick anyway. So decided to give it a miss. Its very windy.
Mon 14 May - Clarendon Bay
It blew a gale through the night and we were hoping to leave for Borneo at 6am but there were huge seas out there and we could see the big ships going past almost disappearing in the waves. One supertanker that went past was going from Saudi Arabia to America with a load of crude oil and he had a 22 metre draft! The wind blew all day. A man with a couple of kids came out again and wanted some rope for his cow and traded some kang kong - a green leaf water plant. It took ages to wash it and look for bugs! He got some pretty good rope though. Once again it is blowing a gale and raining-I really hate the wind. In the middle of the night we heard a bang and dived out of bed and threw the spreader lights on and looked through the windows- we didn't go out. Couldnt see anything but the next day we found the bunch of bananas had fallen down and landed on the deck!!!
Tues 15 May - Clarendon Bay
The weather has finally cleared but the seas still look a bit rough so we will spend another day here. Our dear old man brought us out some large shells and wanted to sell them for money so he could buy some coffee and sugar. We gave him a little bit of coffee and 100 pesos and just took the small shell. He was insisting we take them all but we explained we couldn't bring them back to Australia.
Wed 16 May - Clarendon Bay - Malaysia
07°16.096N / 116°59.228E
At last we finally are on the way. A little bit swelly but not too bad. We motor sailed to Balambangan Island and anchored at 3pm. We thought we were clever before we left Malaysia and purchased money cards to top up our phone and internet but the sim cards have expired! We have been having a daily HF radio sked to keep in contact with other boats. We changed the courtesy flag from the Philippines to Malaysian which is pretty ragged - don't think it will last the distance.
Miles: 37 TTT: 1795
Thurs 17 May - Balambangan I to Ambong
06°18.448N / 116°18.060E
We left at 6am and headed down and past the tip of Borneo. We were going to stop at Agal Bay but we got there at lunch time and Cilantro called up and said they were going to try for Ambong as they want to get to KK asap as they have run out of cooking gas. We had an extremely long day motor sailing and running the revs at 2,500 and got to the entrance to Ambong just as the sun went down - a 12 ½ hr day! It was still light when we anchored but Cilantro came in a bit later in the dark. We are under the lee of the impressive Kota Kinabulu mountain. 4000+ m high
Miles: 76 TTT: 1871
Fri 18 May - Ambong - Pulau Tiga
5°44.951N / 115°40.768E
Started at 6am and had some good wind for a while but as we neared KK it dropped off. There is a fish up here like a pike which races along upright on its tail, flops down and then races on its tail again and it goes for quite a distance. Looks like it is walking on water - really makes us laugh. We made it to the sandspit near Tiga by 3.30 but it was a bit choppy so went around to the other side of Tiga near the resort but the yacht in there was really rolling. Choppy beats rolly any day so we went back around to the sandspit and anchored at 5.30. So we made the day a bit longer for ourselves than we needed.
Miles: 62 TTT: 1933
A lot of the Filippino people we met were extremely poor but they just seem so happy and are independent and not looking for handouts as our last experience with them showed. They are just a really gorgeous people. Their families and their religion are very important to them and it was a real pleasure to meet them and we are very grateful for their hospitality.
We will be in Miri marina in about a week and then we can look at getting my computer fixed.
Take care all
Much love
Dell and Peter
----------
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for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Thursday, May 17, 2012
Week 18 - Ariciffe Island to Balabac Town
Sat 5 May - Araciffe Island - BrookesPoint
08°46.252N / 117°49.436E
We left at 7am and motored under a hot clear sky to Brookes Point. We actually got there before we realised but had to go around the point to anchor near the shore. There is a long jetty with a break wall in front of it protecting the ship which was berthed there. It was being loaded with copra. It is very mountainous with lowland along the shore and very pretty. The moon is full and looks wonderful shining cross the water.
Miles: 30 TTT: 1661
Sun 6 May - Brookes Point
Cilantro collected us at 10 to go ashore. The villagers were so friendly. We walked along a footpath between the houses (nipa) to the road and walked to town. We had been excited about seeing this place because we had a brochure on it and it looked really interesting and is the home of the largest pearl in the world This though meant that the pearl was found at Brookes Point but resides in America! There wasn't a lot to see - the market had good fruit and veg and was really cheap. We went to the only bistro in town and had a good lunch. We have just discovered that not only does San Miguel do beer but also does an apple cider - very nice. The boys did a beer run and Cilantro came over for sundowners. Another lovely evening. The break wall has a red and green light at each end so if you came in on a dark night you would run into the break wall! But then we remembered that the Americans do their red and greens to the opposite of us and then it made sense. Seeing large birds (geese?) flying in a V heading north.
Mon 7 May -Brookes Point - Tuba River
08°30.505N / 117°25.516E
Left at 7am and had a long boring trip to the Tuba River. There is a large nickel mine here and tugs with barges were loading the ships. We anchored up the river past a large water village on the right and a smaller settlement on the left. We could see some plants sticking out of the river on both sides and at low tide it was just mud on both sides- about 100m on starboard and 75m to port. The village was large, built out over the water with hundreds of higgeldy piggeldy roofs of all different types. People were very friendly and waved. We didn't go ashore but just on dusk we saw a 2m crocodile (skipper says 3m, crew says 1m so we settled on 2m!) swim across the river in front of the boat. A quiet evening.
Miles: 36 TTT: 1697
Tues 8 My -Tuba River - Cabugan Islands
08°23.29N / 117°15.821E
We saw monkeys in the trees early in the morning but it was a very bushy tree so they were hard to see. Left at 8.30 and the children in the small village waved us off. It was another long boring morning of motoring and we got in behind three islands at 12.00. We came in between two islands and werent expecting reef so got a bit of a shock when we saw it almost across the entire channel. We could see it in the sunshine. About half an hour after we anchored it started to rain so we got in just in time. The night was very still. Something big came up under the depth sounder beside the keel. We didn't see what it was. We see fishermen out to sea in their little canoes without any shelter and no hats and the sun is so fierce.
Miles: 14 TTT: 1711
Wed 9 May - Cabugan Islands- Candaraman Island
Pa turned 90!!! Happy Birthday Dave
08°04.588N / 117°05.838E
We left at 7.am and followed our track out through the reef. It was windy and choppy as we went down a channel between lots of islands dodging reefs and shallow bits and logs. It was a really interesting day and the islands were beautiful. Of course the current was against us and the wind was on the nose but it was lovely. We saw a turtle in the channel and as we turned to motor sail across the bay three manta rays "shoulder to shoulder" came flapping towards the boat and dived just as they got to us - one of those magic moments. A big boat was coming towards us so we went a bit to port - he was just wanting to get a closer look and gave us the thumbs up as he went past. We could see a storm building and rain as we came out of the narrow channel and headed down towards our island destination. Could also see a couple of waterspouts. The storm seemed to just miss us and was heading north. We skirted round reef and came into the most beautiful island and anchored off the reef in the loveliest water with white sand beaches - paradise! Unfortunately we were on lee shore. Once again when we anchored something was under the depth sounder beside the keel as the depth sounder went to zero. We suspect if may have been a turtle. We could see the beautiful purple of the storm off to the west. We had a swim and watched the storm and then realised it had swirled around and was heading towards us. We battened down and started the engine ready to motor into it if we started to drag. Its not the wind that pulls your anchor out - its the waves. Cilantro had decided to go to Balabac and were pulling their anchor up and drifting towards the reef. There was a moment when we thought they were going to lose their boat but then they got going and headed out. The last we saw of them they were heeling over in the wind. Meanwhile we were busy watching the depth sounder and chartplotter to see if we were dragging. We think we moved a few metres but the anchor grabbed again and we sat it out. A big Bangka had come roaring in behind the reef just before the storm hit and the two big boats which had been rafted up together to a pontoon separated and anchored. There was no lightning or thunder just heaps of wind and rain. We had a lovely red sky after the storm passed and some locals went past in a small boat yelling and waving and holding up a large bottle of beer. They were having a great time. We saw a turtle hoiking along with his head out of the water - we didnt know turtles could move that quickly. Anyway we had a lovely evening after a really interesting day.
Miles: 26 TTT: 137
Thurs 10 My - Candaraman Island- Balabac Town
07°59.535N / 117°03.962E
It was an overcast morning - almost sunny one side and stormy again to the west. We had been hoping to spend a few days at this beautiful island but we checked the grib weather files and it wasn't looking good. The storm front to the west was huge and purple so we eventually decided if in doubt get out. One of the big local boats left in a hurry so we pulled up and we could see the storm had turned and was heading our way. We managed to stay just in front of it and the sky turned green. We had wind behind us and current with us and were motoring along at 6.8 knots. Balabac Harbour was only 6 miles away so we followed our old track in and anchored next to Cilantro feeling like drowned rats. The rain has set in.
Miles: 6 TTT: 1743
Fri 11 May - Balabac Town
Cilantro collected us and we went to town. The people are so friendly here. They had good fruit and veges. We walked up to the point but it had a fence around it so went back to the boats. We had asked around if we could get any San Miguel beer but it was all negative. In the afternoon we took in a crate of empties and suddenly people had beer so the boys were happy.
Sorry this is late. We are currently motor sailing down the coast of Borneo at last but will report on that in the next blog.
Our love and thoughts and prayers are with Maureen and Winnie.
All our love
Dell and Peter
----------
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08°46.252N / 117°49.436E
We left at 7am and motored under a hot clear sky to Brookes Point. We actually got there before we realised but had to go around the point to anchor near the shore. There is a long jetty with a break wall in front of it protecting the ship which was berthed there. It was being loaded with copra. It is very mountainous with lowland along the shore and very pretty. The moon is full and looks wonderful shining cross the water.
Miles: 30 TTT: 1661
Sun 6 May - Brookes Point
Cilantro collected us at 10 to go ashore. The villagers were so friendly. We walked along a footpath between the houses (nipa) to the road and walked to town. We had been excited about seeing this place because we had a brochure on it and it looked really interesting and is the home of the largest pearl in the world This though meant that the pearl was found at Brookes Point but resides in America! There wasn't a lot to see - the market had good fruit and veg and was really cheap. We went to the only bistro in town and had a good lunch. We have just discovered that not only does San Miguel do beer but also does an apple cider - very nice. The boys did a beer run and Cilantro came over for sundowners. Another lovely evening. The break wall has a red and green light at each end so if you came in on a dark night you would run into the break wall! But then we remembered that the Americans do their red and greens to the opposite of us and then it made sense. Seeing large birds (geese?) flying in a V heading north.
Mon 7 May -Brookes Point - Tuba River
08°30.505N / 117°25.516E
Left at 7am and had a long boring trip to the Tuba River. There is a large nickel mine here and tugs with barges were loading the ships. We anchored up the river past a large water village on the right and a smaller settlement on the left. We could see some plants sticking out of the river on both sides and at low tide it was just mud on both sides- about 100m on starboard and 75m to port. The village was large, built out over the water with hundreds of higgeldy piggeldy roofs of all different types. People were very friendly and waved. We didn't go ashore but just on dusk we saw a 2m crocodile (skipper says 3m, crew says 1m so we settled on 2m!) swim across the river in front of the boat. A quiet evening.
Miles: 36 TTT: 1697
Tues 8 My -Tuba River - Cabugan Islands
08°23.29N / 117°15.821E
We saw monkeys in the trees early in the morning but it was a very bushy tree so they were hard to see. Left at 8.30 and the children in the small village waved us off. It was another long boring morning of motoring and we got in behind three islands at 12.00. We came in between two islands and werent expecting reef so got a bit of a shock when we saw it almost across the entire channel. We could see it in the sunshine. About half an hour after we anchored it started to rain so we got in just in time. The night was very still. Something big came up under the depth sounder beside the keel. We didn't see what it was. We see fishermen out to sea in their little canoes without any shelter and no hats and the sun is so fierce.
Miles: 14 TTT: 1711
Wed 9 May - Cabugan Islands- Candaraman Island
Pa turned 90!!! Happy Birthday Dave
08°04.588N / 117°05.838E
We left at 7.am and followed our track out through the reef. It was windy and choppy as we went down a channel between lots of islands dodging reefs and shallow bits and logs. It was a really interesting day and the islands were beautiful. Of course the current was against us and the wind was on the nose but it was lovely. We saw a turtle in the channel and as we turned to motor sail across the bay three manta rays "shoulder to shoulder" came flapping towards the boat and dived just as they got to us - one of those magic moments. A big boat was coming towards us so we went a bit to port - he was just wanting to get a closer look and gave us the thumbs up as he went past. We could see a storm building and rain as we came out of the narrow channel and headed down towards our island destination. Could also see a couple of waterspouts. The storm seemed to just miss us and was heading north. We skirted round reef and came into the most beautiful island and anchored off the reef in the loveliest water with white sand beaches - paradise! Unfortunately we were on lee shore. Once again when we anchored something was under the depth sounder beside the keel as the depth sounder went to zero. We suspect if may have been a turtle. We could see the beautiful purple of the storm off to the west. We had a swim and watched the storm and then realised it had swirled around and was heading towards us. We battened down and started the engine ready to motor into it if we started to drag. Its not the wind that pulls your anchor out - its the waves. Cilantro had decided to go to Balabac and were pulling their anchor up and drifting towards the reef. There was a moment when we thought they were going to lose their boat but then they got going and headed out. The last we saw of them they were heeling over in the wind. Meanwhile we were busy watching the depth sounder and chartplotter to see if we were dragging. We think we moved a few metres but the anchor grabbed again and we sat it out. A big Bangka had come roaring in behind the reef just before the storm hit and the two big boats which had been rafted up together to a pontoon separated and anchored. There was no lightning or thunder just heaps of wind and rain. We had a lovely red sky after the storm passed and some locals went past in a small boat yelling and waving and holding up a large bottle of beer. They were having a great time. We saw a turtle hoiking along with his head out of the water - we didnt know turtles could move that quickly. Anyway we had a lovely evening after a really interesting day.
Miles: 26 TTT: 137
Thurs 10 My - Candaraman Island- Balabac Town
07°59.535N / 117°03.962E
It was an overcast morning - almost sunny one side and stormy again to the west. We had been hoping to spend a few days at this beautiful island but we checked the grib weather files and it wasn't looking good. The storm front to the west was huge and purple so we eventually decided if in doubt get out. One of the big local boats left in a hurry so we pulled up and we could see the storm had turned and was heading our way. We managed to stay just in front of it and the sky turned green. We had wind behind us and current with us and were motoring along at 6.8 knots. Balabac Harbour was only 6 miles away so we followed our old track in and anchored next to Cilantro feeling like drowned rats. The rain has set in.
Miles: 6 TTT: 1743
Fri 11 May - Balabac Town
Cilantro collected us and we went to town. The people are so friendly here. They had good fruit and veges. We walked up to the point but it had a fence around it so went back to the boats. We had asked around if we could get any San Miguel beer but it was all negative. In the afternoon we took in a crate of empties and suddenly people had beer so the boys were happy.
Sorry this is late. We are currently motor sailing down the coast of Borneo at last but will report on that in the next blog.
Our love and thoughts and prayers are with Maureen and Winnie.
All our love
Dell and Peter
----------
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for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Monday, May 7, 2012
Week 17 - Puerto Princesa to Ariciffe Island
Sat 28 April - Puerto Princesa
Happy Birthday Sandra
Ran the generator all day to get the batteries charged back up. Stowing stuff ready for the journey south. Went to the Mangrove restaurant again. Had dinomite which were long chillies stuffed with fish rolled in flour and fried - yum. A good night.
Sun 29 April - Puerto Princesa -Malanao Island
09°26.210N / 118°36.292E
Left at 8.30 - much grinding from the prop so the skipper dived on it but it seemed ok. Depth sounder is now working. Cilantro turned back with water intake problems. A big ship passed us coming out the channel. He tooted twice and we had to check the book to check what it meant! -He was going to port but he passed us first. We went past the point off Puerto Princesa and saw something big in the water. Thought it was a mass of dolphins but it was one big creature. We think it must have been a whale shark. It dived quickly and deep. We turned back to see if we could find it but no luck but a bit of excitement. Came around behind Malanao Island and anchored at 2.30 There were quite a few sticks and fish traps on the way in. Weather is lovely.
Miles: 26 TTT:1587
Mon 30 April - MalanoIsland -RasaIsland
09° 13.704N / 118°25.561E
Left around 7 - beautiful day no wind calm sea - motored all the way. Went past Sombrero Island- very pretty with a village on it and reef all around it. Then to Arena Island which seemed to have a resort and two people on jet skis going round it. We went closer for a look but too much reef so we kept going and anchored off Rasa Island around 1pm. A yacht called Piper was there. We enjoyed the afternoon and took a quick dip off the back of the boat. Saw a boat go up a tributary in the mangroves in the island - found out later it is a wildlife sanctuary and would have been worth a look but the skipper wasnt feeling well (flu). Lovely night- watched the last episode of Packed to the Rafters.
Miles: 23 TTT: 1610
Tues 1 May - Rasa Island
Boat day - skipper still crook. Cilantro came in around 12. Windy and overcast. Rained in the evening and a small bat flew into the cockpit and brushed the skipper's shoulder then settled near the light (off) and hung there till the rain stopped and then took off to the island. Calm night.
Wed 2 May - Rasa Island - NarraPort
09°14.375N / 118°24.346E
We motored across the bay and anchored in 3.4m just south of the pier where they were unloading a small ship. Cilantro collected us in their dinghy and we pulled up on blackish sand on a dirty beach - a lot of rubbish around and very poor huts. It was 10 in the morning but a batch of fishermen offered us beer as we went past! We walked past the trike drivers who helpfully pointed us in the direction of Narra Town - about 3km. It was very hot - the sun is fierce, in fact some of our new windows are starting to pixellate, but it was a very pretty and enjoyable walk and there were some very nice houses along the way. We bought some fruit at the market then walked back to a restaurant we had seen. When we went in we found the customs and immigration officers were also lunching - whoops! We had a wonderful meal- the calamari was perfectly cooked. It was a little windy, rainy and thundery over the mountains in the afternoon. It was a little swelly but not too bad.
Miles: 2 TTT: 1612
Thurs 3 May - Narra Port - Araciffe Island
09°05.475N / 118°09.348E
We left around 7 and motored in hot sunny calm conditions and arrived at Araciffe Island at 12.15. There was a lot of coral around and we anchored in 18m. Cilantro went over to the next island and anchored in 14m. This is a different Araciffe Island to the last unfriendly one. This one is a little sad as it has an abandoned resort on it. We took Bob around to the jetty at the front where there were three people- one with a spear gun and we asked permission to land. They had been spearing octopus and had been on the island for 3 years as caretaker/security. There were five dogs - not vicious - only to make a noise. We landed Bob near the sandspit. The beach mostly has weed growing all along in the water with coral further out. We walked on the beach seeing cement cottages with doors open and no track to them - unused and a large boat up on the island just disintergrating. There were a few other disintergrating boats. We walked past the double storey hotel style building and past the dining area which looked as if it would have been nice. Looked in a couple of the cottages along the beach - some still had furniture and others had their ceilings falling in. We motored around the outside of the reef and then the clouds came in and we had wind and intermittent rain.
Miles: 21 TTT: 1631
Fri 4 May - Araciffe Island
A beautiful day but oh so hot. Cilantro called up to say they had some visitors they couldnt get rid of so were coming over in their dinghy. We all went for a swim at the only bit of beach that didnt have weed. It was beautiful and so nice to be able to have a decent swim. Cilantro just got back to their boat when it started pouring rain- their visitors were waiting for them! We could hear the rain coming across the water and then we could see it so stood on the deck and washed the salt off in the pouring rain. Late in the afternoon when the rain had cleared we went ashore to look at the exposed reef area. It is spring tides- the highest high and lowest low so the reef is exposed. We saw an anenome under about 6 inches of water with a tiny nemo in it, starfish and the seaweed which the locals eat (and we have had in restaurants). Cilantro meanwhile decided to visit their visitors ashore and were shown a hut with only two real walls and a very leaky roof. And that was where they lived. No wonder they wanted to stay on Cilantro!! We thought how much nicer it would have been if they had been able to live in the abandoned resort!!!
Still heading south-motoring - no wind-but that also means calm seas so we are happy!
Missing everyone, especially Rosie, Jessie and Charlie.
Take care
Much love
Dell and Peter
----------
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Happy Birthday Sandra
Ran the generator all day to get the batteries charged back up. Stowing stuff ready for the journey south. Went to the Mangrove restaurant again. Had dinomite which were long chillies stuffed with fish rolled in flour and fried - yum. A good night.
Sun 29 April - Puerto Princesa -Malanao Island
09°26.210N / 118°36.292E
Left at 8.30 - much grinding from the prop so the skipper dived on it but it seemed ok. Depth sounder is now working. Cilantro turned back with water intake problems. A big ship passed us coming out the channel. He tooted twice and we had to check the book to check what it meant! -He was going to port but he passed us first. We went past the point off Puerto Princesa and saw something big in the water. Thought it was a mass of dolphins but it was one big creature. We think it must have been a whale shark. It dived quickly and deep. We turned back to see if we could find it but no luck but a bit of excitement. Came around behind Malanao Island and anchored at 2.30 There were quite a few sticks and fish traps on the way in. Weather is lovely.
Miles: 26 TTT:1587
Mon 30 April - MalanoIsland -RasaIsland
09° 13.704N / 118°25.561E
Left around 7 - beautiful day no wind calm sea - motored all the way. Went past Sombrero Island- very pretty with a village on it and reef all around it. Then to Arena Island which seemed to have a resort and two people on jet skis going round it. We went closer for a look but too much reef so we kept going and anchored off Rasa Island around 1pm. A yacht called Piper was there. We enjoyed the afternoon and took a quick dip off the back of the boat. Saw a boat go up a tributary in the mangroves in the island - found out later it is a wildlife sanctuary and would have been worth a look but the skipper wasnt feeling well (flu). Lovely night- watched the last episode of Packed to the Rafters.
Miles: 23 TTT: 1610
Tues 1 May - Rasa Island
Boat day - skipper still crook. Cilantro came in around 12. Windy and overcast. Rained in the evening and a small bat flew into the cockpit and brushed the skipper's shoulder then settled near the light (off) and hung there till the rain stopped and then took off to the island. Calm night.
Wed 2 May - Rasa Island - NarraPort
09°14.375N / 118°24.346E
We motored across the bay and anchored in 3.4m just south of the pier where they were unloading a small ship. Cilantro collected us in their dinghy and we pulled up on blackish sand on a dirty beach - a lot of rubbish around and very poor huts. It was 10 in the morning but a batch of fishermen offered us beer as we went past! We walked past the trike drivers who helpfully pointed us in the direction of Narra Town - about 3km. It was very hot - the sun is fierce, in fact some of our new windows are starting to pixellate, but it was a very pretty and enjoyable walk and there were some very nice houses along the way. We bought some fruit at the market then walked back to a restaurant we had seen. When we went in we found the customs and immigration officers were also lunching - whoops! We had a wonderful meal- the calamari was perfectly cooked. It was a little windy, rainy and thundery over the mountains in the afternoon. It was a little swelly but not too bad.
Miles: 2 TTT: 1612
Thurs 3 May - Narra Port - Araciffe Island
09°05.475N / 118°09.348E
We left around 7 and motored in hot sunny calm conditions and arrived at Araciffe Island at 12.15. There was a lot of coral around and we anchored in 18m. Cilantro went over to the next island and anchored in 14m. This is a different Araciffe Island to the last unfriendly one. This one is a little sad as it has an abandoned resort on it. We took Bob around to the jetty at the front where there were three people- one with a spear gun and we asked permission to land. They had been spearing octopus and had been on the island for 3 years as caretaker/security. There were five dogs - not vicious - only to make a noise. We landed Bob near the sandspit. The beach mostly has weed growing all along in the water with coral further out. We walked on the beach seeing cement cottages with doors open and no track to them - unused and a large boat up on the island just disintergrating. There were a few other disintergrating boats. We walked past the double storey hotel style building and past the dining area which looked as if it would have been nice. Looked in a couple of the cottages along the beach - some still had furniture and others had their ceilings falling in. We motored around the outside of the reef and then the clouds came in and we had wind and intermittent rain.
Miles: 21 TTT: 1631
Fri 4 May - Araciffe Island
A beautiful day but oh so hot. Cilantro called up to say they had some visitors they couldnt get rid of so were coming over in their dinghy. We all went for a swim at the only bit of beach that didnt have weed. It was beautiful and so nice to be able to have a decent swim. Cilantro just got back to their boat when it started pouring rain- their visitors were waiting for them! We could hear the rain coming across the water and then we could see it so stood on the deck and washed the salt off in the pouring rain. Late in the afternoon when the rain had cleared we went ashore to look at the exposed reef area. It is spring tides- the highest high and lowest low so the reef is exposed. We saw an anenome under about 6 inches of water with a tiny nemo in it, starfish and the seaweed which the locals eat (and we have had in restaurants). Cilantro meanwhile decided to visit their visitors ashore and were shown a hut with only two real walls and a very leaky roof. And that was where they lived. No wonder they wanted to stay on Cilantro!! We thought how much nicer it would have been if they had been able to live in the abandoned resort!!!
Still heading south-motoring - no wind-but that also means calm seas so we are happy!
Missing everyone, especially Rosie, Jessie and Charlie.
Take care
Much love
Dell and Peter
----------
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Saturday, April 28, 2012
WEEK 16 – Puerto Princesa
Sat 21 – Fri 27 April
We had a communal breakfast at the Club on Anzac Day and on Friday we checked out of the Philippines meaning to leave on the 28th. They ended up not charging us anything to check in or check out but if we had extended our visas as Braveheart have it costs 3,300 pesos ($75) each.
I think I have mentioned the main mode of transport is the trike and they can actually carry five people. Four in the cabin and one sidesaddle on the back behind the rider. You stand at the side of the road and hail them. They all have names on the front, some religious – examples are: Christ the King, God’s Gift, Carlo-Jessica, 5 Sisters, 3 Brothers, Aries, Virgo, Survivor, Superman and for the couth and cultured- Fart. There are white trikes and blue trikes and they work alternate days but after8pm they can both work.
On Tuesday evening we walked a kilometre or so to a restaurant we had been told about in the mangroves. We had fantastic food and they were playing great music and the setting was wonderful. So Friday night we went there with Cilantro and Braveheart to celebrate Sandra’s birthday – which was actually on Saturday but we were supposed to leave that day. We had the best night and we all enjoyed Sandra’s birthday immensely. In fact we enjoyed it so much we decided to stay another day and go there again tomorrow night!
So hard to leave Puerto Princesa. The people here are so gorgeous. They are so friendly and despite their poverty seem so happy. The children swim off a brick wall by the Yacht Club every day and all greet us as we walk up the road. When we come out of the supermarkets now all the trikes know where we are going and don’t try to rip us off. Of course we pay a bit more than the locals but its never more than $2 - $3. They are just the loveliest people.
For those of you in or near Brisbane, check out the following site: http://premier.ticketek.com.au/shows/show.aspx?sh=KILLERQU12. Sorry I dont know how to link it and they have "improved" the blog site- dont you hate that!!!!
Our daughter Amy has organised a show at the Tivoli Theatre on 28th July. All for a good cause – the Ride for Cancer in which Amy is participating.
We may be out of email range in the next week as we slowly head south towards Borneo. My computer's hard drive has finally died so am doing this on Peter's and I am not allowed to touch anything so no photos this week!
Take care, much love
Dell and Peter
We had a communal breakfast at the Club on Anzac Day and on Friday we checked out of the Philippines meaning to leave on the 28th. They ended up not charging us anything to check in or check out but if we had extended our visas as Braveheart have it costs 3,300 pesos ($75) each.
I think I have mentioned the main mode of transport is the trike and they can actually carry five people. Four in the cabin and one sidesaddle on the back behind the rider. You stand at the side of the road and hail them. They all have names on the front, some religious – examples are: Christ the King, God’s Gift, Carlo-Jessica, 5 Sisters, 3 Brothers, Aries, Virgo, Survivor, Superman and for the couth and cultured- Fart. There are white trikes and blue trikes and they work alternate days but after8pm they can both work.
On Tuesday evening we walked a kilometre or so to a restaurant we had been told about in the mangroves. We had fantastic food and they were playing great music and the setting was wonderful. So Friday night we went there with Cilantro and Braveheart to celebrate Sandra’s birthday – which was actually on Saturday but we were supposed to leave that day. We had the best night and we all enjoyed Sandra’s birthday immensely. In fact we enjoyed it so much we decided to stay another day and go there again tomorrow night!
So hard to leave Puerto Princesa. The people here are so gorgeous. They are so friendly and despite their poverty seem so happy. The children swim off a brick wall by the Yacht Club every day and all greet us as we walk up the road. When we come out of the supermarkets now all the trikes know where we are going and don’t try to rip us off. Of course we pay a bit more than the locals but its never more than $2 - $3. They are just the loveliest people.
For those of you in or near Brisbane, check out the following site: http://premier.ticketek.com.au/shows/show.aspx?sh=KILLERQU12. Sorry I dont know how to link it and they have "improved" the blog site- dont you hate that!!!!
Our daughter Amy has organised a show at the Tivoli Theatre on 28th July. All for a good cause – the Ride for Cancer in which Amy is participating.
We may be out of email range in the next week as we slowly head south towards Borneo. My computer's hard drive has finally died so am doing this on Peter's and I am not allowed to touch anything so no photos this week!
Take care, much love
Dell and Peter
Monday, April 23, 2012
WEEK 15–Puerto Princesa
Saturday 14 April
The skipper got all the old batteries out and with the help of Chris got them into Bob – two of them weigh 60 kg each! They took them in and the new batteries were delivered and they got them, back to the boat and put in their place – at last! We have 300 amps instead of 400 but at least they work! The skipper had been very grateful to Andy for making him get a generator before we left Darwin as he had used it a lot to charge the old batteries. Had a clean up on the boat then Cilantro, Braveheart and we all went to Kaluis, the special restaurant, for dinner – we had to book and used our ‘winnings’ from Melbourne Cup to pay for the meal. I say ‘winnings’ when in actual fact we halved our money but as we had a bet on every horse it was winnings! Had a wonderful meal with a lovely bottle of wine which was called Tall Horse and it had a picture of a giraffe on it!
Monday 16 April
We walked down to the big blue church we had seen when we came in and notice a park across the road with an ancient entry and discovered it had been a US POW camp and on 15 December 1943 143 Americans had been ordered into the air raid shelters and had kerosene and hand grenades thrown down on them and were burnt to death – only 11 survived. We haven’t seen a lot of American cemeteries or camps before and it brings home their part in the war too.
Wednesday 18 April
We were picked up at 8am by bus and headed to Sabang. The lady sitting in front of us held up one peanut and with a mouthful of nuts asked if we would like a nut – we declined. She must have thought we looked really strange (or hairy!!) as she stared at me for a good part of the way. One thing we have noticed with Asian women is they have a lack of body hair on their arms. We had two stops along the way – one for souvenirs and the other to take photos of the spectacular karsts with rice paddies around them. The scenery was quite stunning and two hours later we pulled up at Sabang and the sea was as flat as and such a beautiful colour – shades of aqua. Such a difference to when we were last there! We had a very early lunch then went to the Bangka stop and our guide got us on the 12.30 bangka with the rest of our group. It was a 10 minute Bangka ride across to the beach then a short walk through the jungle where the smaller bangkas collected us after we had donned life jackets and helmets. There were lots of swiftlets flying around in front of and in the cave and heaps of bats in the cave. The river is an 8.2km long underground river which flows directly to the sea and is visited by 700 – 1,000 people a day so we only went 1.2km in. Unfortunately our guide wasn’t terribly interested in explaining things to us and stayed very close to the noisy boat in front of us so we couldn’t hear him anyway which kind of detracted from the granduer of the place. And they give the one torch to the person at the front. It was wonderful but over too soon. I think one of the special tours to go 4km would be good but knowing how hard it was to get permits for this far we wouldn’t have even attempted it. We walked back and saw a couple of rather large monitor lizards – they really are like small komodo dragons – and some monkeys who were intent on grabbing people’s bags. Then it was back on the bus and we were back at the Yacht Club by 5pm. It was a good day out.
The rest of the week has been taken up by walking around he town, shopping and eating!
We have checked out the pearls here and found them to be expensive – I am not sure how much pearls usually cost but these are hugely more expensive than we paid in the Bandas. Mind you, nicer pearls if you like them big. Filippino pearls are a yellowy or ebony colour and are very big – about three times bigger than the pearls we normally see. We have seen one necklace for 60,000 pesos ($1,428) and another for 120,000 pesos ($2,857). A single pearl depending on its quality is $50 - $70.
Anyway we are now starting to do some timings and passage planning and will head south back towards Miri towards the end of next week.
Hope you are all well. Missing you.
Love Dell and Peter
The skipper got all the old batteries out and with the help of Chris got them into Bob – two of them weigh 60 kg each! They took them in and the new batteries were delivered and they got them, back to the boat and put in their place – at last! We have 300 amps instead of 400 but at least they work! The skipper had been very grateful to Andy for making him get a generator before we left Darwin as he had used it a lot to charge the old batteries. Had a clean up on the boat then Cilantro, Braveheart and we all went to Kaluis, the special restaurant, for dinner – we had to book and used our ‘winnings’ from Melbourne Cup to pay for the meal. I say ‘winnings’ when in actual fact we halved our money but as we had a bet on every horse it was winnings! Had a wonderful meal with a lovely bottle of wine which was called Tall Horse and it had a picture of a giraffe on it!
Monday 16 April
We walked down to the big blue church we had seen when we came in and notice a park across the road with an ancient entry and discovered it had been a US POW camp and on 15 December 1943 143 Americans had been ordered into the air raid shelters and had kerosene and hand grenades thrown down on them and were burnt to death – only 11 survived. We haven’t seen a lot of American cemeteries or camps before and it brings home their part in the war too.
Wednesday 18 April
We were picked up at 8am by bus and headed to Sabang. The lady sitting in front of us held up one peanut and with a mouthful of nuts asked if we would like a nut – we declined. She must have thought we looked really strange (or hairy!!) as she stared at me for a good part of the way. One thing we have noticed with Asian women is they have a lack of body hair on their arms. We had two stops along the way – one for souvenirs and the other to take photos of the spectacular karsts with rice paddies around them. The scenery was quite stunning and two hours later we pulled up at Sabang and the sea was as flat as and such a beautiful colour – shades of aqua. Such a difference to when we were last there! We had a very early lunch then went to the Bangka stop and our guide got us on the 12.30 bangka with the rest of our group. It was a 10 minute Bangka ride across to the beach then a short walk through the jungle where the smaller bangkas collected us after we had donned life jackets and helmets. There were lots of swiftlets flying around in front of and in the cave and heaps of bats in the cave. The river is an 8.2km long underground river which flows directly to the sea and is visited by 700 – 1,000 people a day so we only went 1.2km in. Unfortunately our guide wasn’t terribly interested in explaining things to us and stayed very close to the noisy boat in front of us so we couldn’t hear him anyway which kind of detracted from the granduer of the place. And they give the one torch to the person at the front. It was wonderful but over too soon. I think one of the special tours to go 4km would be good but knowing how hard it was to get permits for this far we wouldn’t have even attempted it. We walked back and saw a couple of rather large monitor lizards – they really are like small komodo dragons – and some monkeys who were intent on grabbing people’s bags. Then it was back on the bus and we were back at the Yacht Club by 5pm. It was a good day out.
The rest of the week has been taken up by walking around he town, shopping and eating!
We have checked out the pearls here and found them to be expensive – I am not sure how much pearls usually cost but these are hugely more expensive than we paid in the Bandas. Mind you, nicer pearls if you like them big. Filippino pearls are a yellowy or ebony colour and are very big – about three times bigger than the pearls we normally see. We have seen one necklace for 60,000 pesos ($1,428) and another for 120,000 pesos ($2,857). A single pearl depending on its quality is $50 - $70.
Anyway we are now starting to do some timings and passage planning and will head south back towards Miri towards the end of next week.
Hope you are all well. Missing you.
Love Dell and Peter
Monday, April 16, 2012
WEEK 14–North Verde Island to Puerto Princesa
Saturday 7 April – North Verde – Arrecife Island
Happy Birthday Pete
09°54.632N / 118°52.306E
It was so calm. The skipper got up at midnight again to run the motor to charge the batteries. We followed our track out and the tide was a bit higher so it wasn’t so bad going out. We motor sailed over some pretty deep water and then shallow. At one stage where the deep water met the shallow water we had some breaking waves. We came into Arrecife Island which apparently some years ago had hostages taken from the resort. Braveheart had some notes which said the resort welcomed yachties but obviously that has now changed. We had been looking forward to going ashore and doing some snorkelling. There was a navy boat anchored there with 4 big guns on it. The resort people came out in their boat and said Braveheart and Cilantro had to move as they were too close to the reef. Cilantro headed for Puerto Princesa (4 hrs away) and Braveheart reanchored. Cilantro came back shortly after as it was a bit rough out there. Then the resort told us we could stay the night but could not go ashore! Then at 5pm they came and told Cilantro we were a security risk so we had to go. Cilantro said it was too late for us to leave and they haven’t come back. The skipper made hot cross buns and Cilantro gave us some little chocolates for Easter and we gave them some fish. We are now below the 10° mark which is supposed to be out of the cyclone belt.
Miles: 32 TTT: 1542
Sunday 8 April – Arrecife Island – Puerto Princesa
Happy Birthday Katie
09°45.917N / 118°43.746E
We had an early start and after a whileBraveheart called us up to tell us we were heading for a reef and sure enough our depth was dropping so we made a sharp turn out of there – our charts are way out. As we approached Puerta Princesa the seas really kicked up and it was like crossing a bar. It was where the sea went from 1,000m to 95m depth and we were getting badly thrown around from side to side and took a couple of nasty knocks to the side. It was horrible and we could see the waves breaking all around. Braveheart had got in closer and were in calm water. Seemed to take ages for us to get in there! We came up the channel to Puerta Princesa past the city and as we approached the Yacht Club a boat came out to lead us all in and told us where to anchor. We went ashore for a lovely welcome and some celebratory drinks – the first time on land for nine days!! Had a tasty meal for dinner.
Miles: 19 TTT: 1561
Monday 9 April – Puerto Princesa
We all went to town separately by trike and went to the supermarket. Four people can fit in a trike – one on the seat behind the driver and three in the cabin. We ran into Braveheart so we all went to lunch at Kaluis which is a really special place and we had the most amazing meal. Walking back we stopped and watched a parade which included bands of school children in their marching costumes. We managed to get a new starter motor battery and the skipper is testing our batteries to see which ones are cactus.
Tuesday 10 April – Peurto Princesa
We caught a trike to town with Cilantro and went to Immigration to finally check into the country! We were thinking we might get into trouble but we got 21 day visas and were told we would be charged 500 pesos ($12) when we check out. We walked to town and went to a travel agent to book our tour to the underground river at Sebang (which had been too rough to get into when we went up the coast) only to be told that it was booked out for the entire month of April!!! But if we did a walk in at the permit booking office we might get a permit. We went to lunch – great value and then Sandra and I waited for the 1pm opening of the office which opened at 1.20 and then we went in a huge crowd shoved along to a counter with four people sitting there but apparently we had to see the last person. Someone finally felt sorry for us and gave us a form to fill out – we had no idea what was going on or what we had to do. Then we waited and waited until we could give the form to the girl and she told us to sit down and wait. After a while Sandra went to see how long we had to wait cause I couldn’t sit in that crush any longer so the girl then said come back before 4pm which we did and we waited some more. I think one of the locals told the girl to process ours cause after half an hour or more Sandra suddenly had our four permits!! I was sitting out of the crowd – too claustrophobic for me! She was told she had done really well as most people there had been waiting since early morning The worst run office I have ever seen and the crush and the wait totally unnecessary! Would have loved to be able to sort that office out!!. Anyway we came back exhausted and had dinner on board.
Wednesday 11 April – Peurto Princesa
The boys went shopping (fishing lures) while we went to a travel agent and were told the underground river is booked out but when we said we had permits she phoned around to get us a tour and deducted the price of the permits from the tour. It was such a relief to know that we hadn’t got the permits in vain! So we are booked for next Wednesday. She also told us that whale sharks should start appearing near here next full moon. They haven’t sighted any yet. We met the boys and had lunch then did some shopping and had dinner at the yacht club.
Thursday 12 April – Peurto Princesa
Had a boat day while the skipper isolated four crook batteries and then went to the yacht club for dinner.
Friday 13 April – Peurto Princesa
Peter and Chris went to the battery place to see about getting new batteries. I continued into town and had a lovely time walking up and down every aisle in the two department stores and one supermarket. Met the skipper back at the Yacht Club then we went back in for dinner in the evening. Rubicon Star came in today.
Its nice to finally be able to buy what we need and have some down time. Braveheart will be here till their daughter flies in at the end of the month. We will stay until we wake up one day and know its time to go. Meanwhile we have exploring to do. Cant believe it is halfway through April already.
Love to you all.
Dell and Peter
Happy Birthday Pete
09°54.632N / 118°52.306E
It was so calm. The skipper got up at midnight again to run the motor to charge the batteries. We followed our track out and the tide was a bit higher so it wasn’t so bad going out. We motor sailed over some pretty deep water and then shallow. At one stage where the deep water met the shallow water we had some breaking waves. We came into Arrecife Island which apparently some years ago had hostages taken from the resort. Braveheart had some notes which said the resort welcomed yachties but obviously that has now changed. We had been looking forward to going ashore and doing some snorkelling. There was a navy boat anchored there with 4 big guns on it. The resort people came out in their boat and said Braveheart and Cilantro had to move as they were too close to the reef. Cilantro headed for Puerto Princesa (4 hrs away) and Braveheart reanchored. Cilantro came back shortly after as it was a bit rough out there. Then the resort told us we could stay the night but could not go ashore! Then at 5pm they came and told Cilantro we were a security risk so we had to go. Cilantro said it was too late for us to leave and they haven’t come back. The skipper made hot cross buns and Cilantro gave us some little chocolates for Easter and we gave them some fish. We are now below the 10° mark which is supposed to be out of the cyclone belt.
Miles: 32 TTT: 1542
Sunday 8 April – Arrecife Island – Puerto Princesa
Happy Birthday Katie
09°45.917N / 118°43.746E
We had an early start and after a whileBraveheart called us up to tell us we were heading for a reef and sure enough our depth was dropping so we made a sharp turn out of there – our charts are way out. As we approached Puerta Princesa the seas really kicked up and it was like crossing a bar. It was where the sea went from 1,000m to 95m depth and we were getting badly thrown around from side to side and took a couple of nasty knocks to the side. It was horrible and we could see the waves breaking all around. Braveheart had got in closer and were in calm water. Seemed to take ages for us to get in there! We came up the channel to Puerta Princesa past the city and as we approached the Yacht Club a boat came out to lead us all in and told us where to anchor. We went ashore for a lovely welcome and some celebratory drinks – the first time on land for nine days!! Had a tasty meal for dinner.
Miles: 19 TTT: 1561
Monday 9 April – Puerto Princesa
We all went to town separately by trike and went to the supermarket. Four people can fit in a trike – one on the seat behind the driver and three in the cabin. We ran into Braveheart so we all went to lunch at Kaluis which is a really special place and we had the most amazing meal. Walking back we stopped and watched a parade which included bands of school children in their marching costumes. We managed to get a new starter motor battery and the skipper is testing our batteries to see which ones are cactus.
Tuesday 10 April – Peurto Princesa
We caught a trike to town with Cilantro and went to Immigration to finally check into the country! We were thinking we might get into trouble but we got 21 day visas and were told we would be charged 500 pesos ($12) when we check out. We walked to town and went to a travel agent to book our tour to the underground river at Sebang (which had been too rough to get into when we went up the coast) only to be told that it was booked out for the entire month of April!!! But if we did a walk in at the permit booking office we might get a permit. We went to lunch – great value and then Sandra and I waited for the 1pm opening of the office which opened at 1.20 and then we went in a huge crowd shoved along to a counter with four people sitting there but apparently we had to see the last person. Someone finally felt sorry for us and gave us a form to fill out – we had no idea what was going on or what we had to do. Then we waited and waited until we could give the form to the girl and she told us to sit down and wait. After a while Sandra went to see how long we had to wait cause I couldn’t sit in that crush any longer so the girl then said come back before 4pm which we did and we waited some more. I think one of the locals told the girl to process ours cause after half an hour or more Sandra suddenly had our four permits!! I was sitting out of the crowd – too claustrophobic for me! She was told she had done really well as most people there had been waiting since early morning The worst run office I have ever seen and the crush and the wait totally unnecessary! Would have loved to be able to sort that office out!!. Anyway we came back exhausted and had dinner on board.
Wednesday 11 April – Peurto Princesa
The boys went shopping (fishing lures) while we went to a travel agent and were told the underground river is booked out but when we said we had permits she phoned around to get us a tour and deducted the price of the permits from the tour. It was such a relief to know that we hadn’t got the permits in vain! So we are booked for next Wednesday. She also told us that whale sharks should start appearing near here next full moon. They haven’t sighted any yet. We met the boys and had lunch then did some shopping and had dinner at the yacht club.
Thursday 12 April – Peurto Princesa
Had a boat day while the skipper isolated four crook batteries and then went to the yacht club for dinner.
Friday 13 April – Peurto Princesa
Peter and Chris went to the battery place to see about getting new batteries. I continued into town and had a lovely time walking up and down every aisle in the two department stores and one supermarket. Met the skipper back at the Yacht Club then we went back in for dinner in the evening. Rubicon Star came in today.
Its nice to finally be able to buy what we need and have some down time. Braveheart will be here till their daughter flies in at the end of the month. We will stay until we wake up one day and know its time to go. Meanwhile we have exploring to do. Cant believe it is halfway through April already.
Love to you all.
Dell and Peter
Monday, April 9, 2012
WEEK 13–Balalacao Island to North Verde Island
Saturday 31 March – Bulalacao Isle – Nth Bay Linapacan Isle
11°27.506N / 119°48.307
Dawn is just breaking and we can hear music from the only hut we can see on the shore, the roosters are going off and we can hear the birds chirping. It is oh so still and there is a lone gecko calling. Our batteries are really fading – they cant hold the charge through the night and the fridge/freezer has to be turned off. We left at 7 and headed towards the bay reputed to have a Spanish fort. We went into the bay past the pearl farms and could see the reef on the port side but the sun was in the wrong place to see the starboard side. We went over a few shallow patches (!) and anchored in 17m but suddenly we were in 5m and could see bommies out the back of the boat so had to reanchor! Judy and Chris came to visit in the late afternoon. We didn’t see the Spanish fort!
Miles: 34 TTT: 1314
Sunday 1 April – Linapacan Island – Shark Fin Bay, Palawan Island
11°09.717N / 119°32.346E
Bravehart called up early to say they could see whale sharks outside and we were about to race up to see them when Cilantro came back and said the April fool didn’t fool them – sure fooled us but! We left about 7.15 and went over a very shallow patch which was a bit daunting and headed down to Calayanlayan Bay which we had heard was the pick of the bunch – which it was. Stunning islands with stunning beaches BUT either way too deep or reef – there was no in between. Such a shame as we could have spent a few days there. We left and went up the sheltered side of the islands but we could see a huge storm cell ahead and could see it on the radar. We went hell for leather up around the top of the island and headed away from it. We could see lightning striking the water 1 ½ miles away. We met up with Cilantro and Braveheart again and went slowly so the storm passed. We came into the only likely place we could see on the chart with depths to anchor. Were a bit nervous as there was reef and rocks marked on the chart and it was late in the afternoon but we could see the reef off the starboard side and had good depths all the way in and anchored beside a huge limestone karst just like in Thailand. Absolutely stunning. We could see a cave 1/3 of the way up the cliff with a tent and hammock in it and a little hut perched on the side of the cliff just over from where we are anchored. We suspect they are guarding the birds nests. We can also see a few eagles. There is a white patch on the rock just over from us which looks like a Sarawak warrior face and above it is another face. Check the photos out and see if you can see both. A truly stunning spot.
Miles: 42 TTT: 1356
Monday 2 April – Shark Fin Bay
The wind just blew all day and it was overcast so we had a boat day and Peter baked some bread. Just on dusk Braveheart called us to look at the bats and there was a great ribbon of bats leaving the island – Brilliant.
Tuesday 3 April – Shark Fin Bay – Maytigud Island
11°09.717N / 119°32.346E
It was a very calm morning so we took Bob and circumnavigated the island. There was quite a bit of coral on our side which looked really nice and on the other side the channel was very shallow with coral and weed. There were a few little huts scattered around the cliffs, some occupied, some old. We saw a really cool cave but there were oysters and not quite wide enough to get inside. Peter and Chris went to talk to the men on the birds nest platform – they were a bit reticent aft first – probably thought we were after the birds nests. Also they didn’t have much English. Its funny when you come in to anchor we sometimes think later maybe we could have gone in a bit closer but when the sun came out this morning and we could see the reef we knew we had been in the perfect position! There are lots of butterflies around the place again. We came out around some gorgeous islands with reef all around the loveliest emerald to aqua colour – beautiful. We then found ourselves among the pearl farms which were all higgledy piggledy. Two security guards in a boat came out and led Braveheart through and we all followed which was just as well as we didn’t know which way to go. Shortly after this just as we got to the last pearl farm raft Braveheart caught a net around their prop and Chris had to dive to get it off but it is damaged – will go forward but cant reverse. We came around some large karsts and into a sheltered bay. Its funny with reef – it just seems to pop up all over the place. There were lots of fish farm nets around but we all managed to find a spot to anchor in 17m. Chris towed one of the locals whose boat had broken down to shore. A quiet night.
Miles: 42 TTT: 1398
Wednesday 4 April – Maytigud Isl – Icadambanaun Isl
10°49.437N / 119°37.439E
We left at 8.15 and went past beautiful Apulit Island which had a resort on it and reef all around. It had a large cross on the cliff above it. Saw some scuba divers surface. We followed the shipping lane in towards Tay Tay hoping to get ashore. Tay Tay has a HUGE sign on the hill above the town saying – TAY TAY – of course! It was a bit rough and the channel a bit narrow so we chose not to try it and headed out to Icadambanauan Island. It was mid morning so we could clearly see all the beautiful reef – a very pretty island. We headed to the third bay which said 8m on the chart but we found 33m at that spot and the shallowest we found was 24m which was such a shame as it was a stunning bay. We then went through a channel between reef in the second bay and went through more reef into a duckpond with little houses all round. We did a circle and had just enough room to anchor but there was no room for error so we decided not to risk it and went to the fist bay where Cilantro were anchored in 19.8m. Four girls came by so we invited them on to see the boat, which they thought was pretty exciting. Could hear a pig screaming – had to block my ears – so awful! Later a man came by with his two young daughters and at first we thought he was trying to give them to us! Then we worked out he wanted us to give some bread for his daughters – to eat! Whew! Saw the fruit bats leave in the evening – a lovely calm anchorage.
Miles: 24 TTT: 1440
Thursday 5 April – Icadambanauan Island - Capayas nr Domaran Channel
10°29.426N / 119°41.528E
Saw the fruit bats return then left at 7am. Braveheart had left some time before us and they called up to say they couldn’t find a way through the pearl farms so we all had to go miles out and around a huge shallow patch and another island heading into quite a swell. Braveheart called again and said they had come across more pearl farms and were heading back and around where they had seen some local boats go. As we headed down there were pearl farms on both sides. Braveheart gave us a couple of way points to follow and also the lowest depth as our depth sounder had stopped working again. We came down between Palawan and an island, round the reef and more pearl farms then round another point with more pearl farms through some driving rain and anchored not far from a town with a very big church. The skipper is charging up our spare battery and the old starter battery with the generator - unfortunately the old starter battery is stuffed so that was a good idea which didn’t work out – oh well! A very tiring and slightly stressful day today – but at least it wasn’t boring! There is a bit of a swell coming in and we are rolling.
Miles: 28 TTT: 1468
Friday 6 April – Capayas – Nth Verde Island
10°07.201N 119°13.815E
The roll settled down and we had a surprisingly good night. We left around 7 and headed through the shallows and reef of Green Island Bay. We saw two dolphins ahead of us and they came and played around the bow of the boat for a while. We haven’t had that for such a long time. We caught a mackerel just as we were going past a lovely island. Our depth sounder stopped working after that so we followed Cilantro through the shallows. Our chart plotter was out as it showed we were on the island! Reef island had a resort on it. Braveheart dived on their prop but we misunderstood them and thought we couldnt stay so kept going - apparently we could have stayed so that was disappointing. We went over a couple of shallow patches – the depth sounder was working at this point – so headed to deeper water further off shore. It was getting late so headed in to the North Verde Island which is across the channel from Palawan main island. A big fish took the line but ended up breaking it off so there went another lure! Braveheart went in first and gave a coordinate to stay on the port side of as there was a sandbar to the right and fishtraps built on reef to the left and it was low tide!! If we’d had a choice at that point I don’t think we would have gone in but Bravehart were already in and waiting for us. Cilantro followed us in but what they didnt know was that to keep our depth sounder working we had to keep going into neutral then slow forward then neutral so they ended up very close behind us. The skipper kept the waypoint to starboard but all I could see on the port side as we went in were rocks right beside the boat – exhilarating to say the least!!! We then followed Cilantro up the channel as the depth sounder had stopped working. We anchored at 4.15 in 13m – it was so beautifully calm. Oh and just in case you think we are wimps I must explain that Braveheart have a google earth capacity on their chart plotter so even when the charts are out they can still see the lay of the land and reef so to speak. There was a small bat flying around the boat in the evening and it seems that one may have found its way into Braveheart – they are not sure but the haven’t found Count Basil yet!!!
Miles: 42 TTT: 1510
One thing I forgot to tell you after we got back from dinner at the resort at Puerto Del Sol last week was that the skipper dropped the rope to Bob before he could tie it off and of course Bob immediately started drifting away so it was a dark late night swim for the skipper to retrieve him!!
Hope you all have a Happy and Blessed Easter. Missing you
Love
Dell and Peter
11°27.506N / 119°48.307
Dawn is just breaking and we can hear music from the only hut we can see on the shore, the roosters are going off and we can hear the birds chirping. It is oh so still and there is a lone gecko calling. Our batteries are really fading – they cant hold the charge through the night and the fridge/freezer has to be turned off. We left at 7 and headed towards the bay reputed to have a Spanish fort. We went into the bay past the pearl farms and could see the reef on the port side but the sun was in the wrong place to see the starboard side. We went over a few shallow patches (!) and anchored in 17m but suddenly we were in 5m and could see bommies out the back of the boat so had to reanchor! Judy and Chris came to visit in the late afternoon. We didn’t see the Spanish fort!
Miles: 34 TTT: 1314
Sunday 1 April – Linapacan Island – Shark Fin Bay, Palawan Island
11°09.717N / 119°32.346E
Bravehart called up early to say they could see whale sharks outside and we were about to race up to see them when Cilantro came back and said the April fool didn’t fool them – sure fooled us but! We left about 7.15 and went over a very shallow patch which was a bit daunting and headed down to Calayanlayan Bay which we had heard was the pick of the bunch – which it was. Stunning islands with stunning beaches BUT either way too deep or reef – there was no in between. Such a shame as we could have spent a few days there. We left and went up the sheltered side of the islands but we could see a huge storm cell ahead and could see it on the radar. We went hell for leather up around the top of the island and headed away from it. We could see lightning striking the water 1 ½ miles away. We met up with Cilantro and Braveheart again and went slowly so the storm passed. We came into the only likely place we could see on the chart with depths to anchor. Were a bit nervous as there was reef and rocks marked on the chart and it was late in the afternoon but we could see the reef off the starboard side and had good depths all the way in and anchored beside a huge limestone karst just like in Thailand. Absolutely stunning. We could see a cave 1/3 of the way up the cliff with a tent and hammock in it and a little hut perched on the side of the cliff just over from where we are anchored. We suspect they are guarding the birds nests. We can also see a few eagles. There is a white patch on the rock just over from us which looks like a Sarawak warrior face and above it is another face. Check the photos out and see if you can see both. A truly stunning spot.
Miles: 42 TTT: 1356
Monday 2 April – Shark Fin Bay
The wind just blew all day and it was overcast so we had a boat day and Peter baked some bread. Just on dusk Braveheart called us to look at the bats and there was a great ribbon of bats leaving the island – Brilliant.
Tuesday 3 April – Shark Fin Bay – Maytigud Island
11°09.717N / 119°32.346E
It was a very calm morning so we took Bob and circumnavigated the island. There was quite a bit of coral on our side which looked really nice and on the other side the channel was very shallow with coral and weed. There were a few little huts scattered around the cliffs, some occupied, some old. We saw a really cool cave but there were oysters and not quite wide enough to get inside. Peter and Chris went to talk to the men on the birds nest platform – they were a bit reticent aft first – probably thought we were after the birds nests. Also they didn’t have much English. Its funny when you come in to anchor we sometimes think later maybe we could have gone in a bit closer but when the sun came out this morning and we could see the reef we knew we had been in the perfect position! There are lots of butterflies around the place again. We came out around some gorgeous islands with reef all around the loveliest emerald to aqua colour – beautiful. We then found ourselves among the pearl farms which were all higgledy piggledy. Two security guards in a boat came out and led Braveheart through and we all followed which was just as well as we didn’t know which way to go. Shortly after this just as we got to the last pearl farm raft Braveheart caught a net around their prop and Chris had to dive to get it off but it is damaged – will go forward but cant reverse. We came around some large karsts and into a sheltered bay. Its funny with reef – it just seems to pop up all over the place. There were lots of fish farm nets around but we all managed to find a spot to anchor in 17m. Chris towed one of the locals whose boat had broken down to shore. A quiet night.
Miles: 42 TTT: 1398
Wednesday 4 April – Maytigud Isl – Icadambanaun Isl
10°49.437N / 119°37.439E
We left at 8.15 and went past beautiful Apulit Island which had a resort on it and reef all around. It had a large cross on the cliff above it. Saw some scuba divers surface. We followed the shipping lane in towards Tay Tay hoping to get ashore. Tay Tay has a HUGE sign on the hill above the town saying – TAY TAY – of course! It was a bit rough and the channel a bit narrow so we chose not to try it and headed out to Icadambanauan Island. It was mid morning so we could clearly see all the beautiful reef – a very pretty island. We headed to the third bay which said 8m on the chart but we found 33m at that spot and the shallowest we found was 24m which was such a shame as it was a stunning bay. We then went through a channel between reef in the second bay and went through more reef into a duckpond with little houses all round. We did a circle and had just enough room to anchor but there was no room for error so we decided not to risk it and went to the fist bay where Cilantro were anchored in 19.8m. Four girls came by so we invited them on to see the boat, which they thought was pretty exciting. Could hear a pig screaming – had to block my ears – so awful! Later a man came by with his two young daughters and at first we thought he was trying to give them to us! Then we worked out he wanted us to give some bread for his daughters – to eat! Whew! Saw the fruit bats leave in the evening – a lovely calm anchorage.
Miles: 24 TTT: 1440
Thursday 5 April – Icadambanauan Island - Capayas nr Domaran Channel
10°29.426N / 119°41.528E
Saw the fruit bats return then left at 7am. Braveheart had left some time before us and they called up to say they couldn’t find a way through the pearl farms so we all had to go miles out and around a huge shallow patch and another island heading into quite a swell. Braveheart called again and said they had come across more pearl farms and were heading back and around where they had seen some local boats go. As we headed down there were pearl farms on both sides. Braveheart gave us a couple of way points to follow and also the lowest depth as our depth sounder had stopped working again. We came down between Palawan and an island, round the reef and more pearl farms then round another point with more pearl farms through some driving rain and anchored not far from a town with a very big church. The skipper is charging up our spare battery and the old starter battery with the generator - unfortunately the old starter battery is stuffed so that was a good idea which didn’t work out – oh well! A very tiring and slightly stressful day today – but at least it wasn’t boring! There is a bit of a swell coming in and we are rolling.
Miles: 28 TTT: 1468
Friday 6 April – Capayas – Nth Verde Island
10°07.201N 119°13.815E
The roll settled down and we had a surprisingly good night. We left around 7 and headed through the shallows and reef of Green Island Bay. We saw two dolphins ahead of us and they came and played around the bow of the boat for a while. We haven’t had that for such a long time. We caught a mackerel just as we were going past a lovely island. Our depth sounder stopped working after that so we followed Cilantro through the shallows. Our chart plotter was out as it showed we were on the island! Reef island had a resort on it. Braveheart dived on their prop but we misunderstood them and thought we couldnt stay so kept going - apparently we could have stayed so that was disappointing. We went over a couple of shallow patches – the depth sounder was working at this point – so headed to deeper water further off shore. It was getting late so headed in to the North Verde Island which is across the channel from Palawan main island. A big fish took the line but ended up breaking it off so there went another lure! Braveheart went in first and gave a coordinate to stay on the port side of as there was a sandbar to the right and fishtraps built on reef to the left and it was low tide!! If we’d had a choice at that point I don’t think we would have gone in but Bravehart were already in and waiting for us. Cilantro followed us in but what they didnt know was that to keep our depth sounder working we had to keep going into neutral then slow forward then neutral so they ended up very close behind us. The skipper kept the waypoint to starboard but all I could see on the port side as we went in were rocks right beside the boat – exhilarating to say the least!!! We then followed Cilantro up the channel as the depth sounder had stopped working. We anchored at 4.15 in 13m – it was so beautifully calm. Oh and just in case you think we are wimps I must explain that Braveheart have a google earth capacity on their chart plotter so even when the charts are out they can still see the lay of the land and reef so to speak. There was a small bat flying around the boat in the evening and it seems that one may have found its way into Braveheart – they are not sure but the haven’t found Count Basil yet!!!
Miles: 42 TTT: 1510
One thing I forgot to tell you after we got back from dinner at the resort at Puerto Del Sol last week was that the skipper dropped the rope to Bob before he could tie it off and of course Bob immediately started drifting away so it was a dark late night swim for the skipper to retrieve him!!
Hope you all have a Happy and Blessed Easter. Missing you
Love
Dell and Peter
Monday, April 2, 2012
WEEK 12- Halsey Harbour to Bulalacao Island
Saturday 24 March - Halsey Harbour to Salvacion Town
12°08.448N / 119°55.092E
The morning was very still. We still had some hopes that we would get our Halsey Harbour prawns but it was not to be! We followed our track out - its interesting that Cilantro and we both have Navionics Gold charts but Cilantro's showed land through the channel whereas ours showed the channel - weird. We had a bit of heavy rain along the way but the sea was calm and we anchored off Salvacion Town at 2.30 in 6m. We phoned Ruth after 8 (Aus time) and were thrilled to hear the results of the election - well done Queensland! Lets hope things improve now.
Miles: 32 TTT: 1220
12°08.448N / 119°55.092E
The morning was very still. We still had some hopes that we would get our Halsey Harbour prawns but it was not to be! We followed our track out - its interesting that Cilantro and we both have Navionics Gold charts but Cilantro's showed land through the channel whereas ours showed the channel - weird. We had a bit of heavy rain along the way but the sea was calm and we anchored off Salvacion Town at 2.30 in 6m. We phoned Ruth after 8 (Aus time) and were thrilled to hear the results of the election - well done Queensland! Lets hope things improve now.
Miles: 32 TTT: 1220
Sunday 25 March - Salvacion Town
We went ashore around 10. You cant actually see the town until you round the cement jetty and head circuitously around to the next jetty (shallow). The little town was extremely tidy with footpath like roads and little sari sari stores. It had a nice school and a big flash municipal building. The skipper bought a bush knife to replace the one he gave away. It poured rain in the afternoon but had cleared by 4 so we took the dinghies up the river. It was very pretty and looked as though it should have had crocs but I think they ate them all years ago! In fact there were no animals. We did see 2 young caucasion ladies paddling on the river bank in the mud with two Filippino ladies so we stopped to see what they were doing. One of the girls was so excited to see us as she was a fellow Aussie from Coffs Harbour. They were catching crabs and mussels for their dinner. They were there doing some environmental work. We continued up the river under a bridge where a car driving across stopped and backed up to wave and get a better look. It was getting late and started to rain so we returned up the river under big brollies. There are dugongs around the boats. We had been hearing them breath and seeing the splash when they dived. We finally caught a glimpse of one when it surfaced just off the back of the boat and we saw a large pink and white body diving down.
Monday 26 March - Salvacion Town
We went ashore at 11 and walked to where the girls were staying but didn't find them so went back to a little bamboo hut restaurant and had lunch. The table decorations were pineapples which they grow so we all bought two. James and Chris took a trike to get some beer and as it had come up windy we went back to the boat. It was a long wet trip out. The wind really came up through the night.
Tuesday 27 March Salvacion Town - Peurto del Sol - Happy Birthday Debbie
We left after we called Debbie for her birthday and went through all the pretty islands heading for Coral Bay. We had to go through some pearl farms and we weren't entirely sure we could get through and our charts were out. But we made it through and took a buoy at Coral Bay and went in and bought our crab ashtray we wanted. We left straight away as the wind was coming up and we headed in to wind and current and were only doing 3.5 knots so decided to come in to Peurto Del Sol and took up a mooring. We ate ashore in the restaurant.
Miles: 20 TTT: 1240
Wednesday 28 March - Peurto del Sol - Coron Town
11°59.703N / 120°11.668E
Dan the American looking after his boss's rather large stink boat wanted moral support to take the boat around to get water so the skipper obliged and went with him. It was the first time Dan had handled the boat on his own. And the payment was seven cans of beer!! We left at 9 just as Dan and his crew left in the smaller motor boat. It was a lovely day - what a difference a day makes! As we came into the channel we saw a huge turtle - really clean - and it had two yellow fish with it. We arrived at Coron town (3 hours) just as Dan and his crew were leaving. They had been in and got their supplies while we were still coming! We anchored behind Cilantro and Braveheart who had struggled up in the bad weather yesterday. We went ashore to shop and had lunch at the Coron Bistro - Italian sausages - yum! We were back on board late in the afternoon when the Skipper thought he saw a shark's fin off our starboard bow. We went forward for a look and it turned out to be five white-spotted Eagle Rays all around 1 ½ - 2 metres across. They were gorgeous and we pointed them out to a local bangka hurrying past and they slowed to see what we were pointing at and they were so excited when they saw them. One of those magic moments.
Miles: 17 TTT: 1257
Thursday 29 March - Coron Town
Went to the market early and got provisions then the boys took the jerries to get the diesel. We all then went to the Coron Bistro for - you guessed it - sausages!! It was late by the time we got back and it was a quiet night on board.
Friday 30 March - Coron Town - Bulalacao Island
11°45.604N / 120°10.877E
We waited for Braveheart to get back with their engine parts then we left at 10. We headed up to Coron Island and motored along the side of the island. Its a most unusual island - big with limestone cliffs and jungly and really pretty. On the inside of it are a few lagoons and a large lake. Apparently one of the lagoons is good for diving.(scuba). There were the odd little narrow beaches, the odd fishermen's huts and it was lovely. Then we headed across to Bulalacao Island. We are finally heading south. We know there is a typhoon in the South China sea heading towards Vietnam but that wont affect us. We go down the East coast of Palawan. Didnt mention last time we were here the crew hooked a rather large stingray - luckily it broke the line. Today is was sunny coming in and we could see all the reef and it was really pretty. It was too early to go to bed so we watched a movie and when we came up at 9pm it was so still you could see the hills reflected in the water - so lovely - we could also hear the geckos calling - they are the big variety and they really do call out ge-cko. A squall hit us through the night but didn't last long.
Miles: 23 TTT: 1280
At last it feels like we are on the move again - heading south down the East coast of Palawan this time. Hope all is well with you.
Miss you
Dell and Peter
XXXX
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Sunday, March 25, 2012
WEEK 11 –Puerto del Sol Resort to Halsey Harbour
Saturday 17 March – Happy Birthday Chris - Braveheart
We started the week by celebrating Chris’ birthday.
Sunday 18 March – Puerto del Sol – Coron Town
11°59.739N / 120°11.614E
At Tangatt Island we snorkelled over a Japanese gun boat which was really great. The bow of the boat was in about 3m and the stern in plus 10m with all coral and bits growing on it.. The coral on the drop off was good too. It was the first time it made us feel that we would like to dive. There were a couple of divers there obviously learners and it looked kind of good. We had to anchor in 24m of water to be able to get to the wreck so it was a day stop only. There is another wreck that is fairly shallow but we haven’t been able to get in there. Then headed back to Coron Town
Monday 19 March – Coron Town to Culion Town
11°53.163N 120°01.454E
We motored to Culion Town. This was the biggest leper colony in the world which opened in 1906 started by the Americans. For the next fifty plus years, until a cure was found and administered to all, lepers from all over the Philippines were rounded up and placed on the island. There, research and treatment were carried out by dedicated doctors and staff. One of the American doctors refused to leave and died on the island at the age of 82. But until a cure was found being sent to Culion Island meant being taken from their families and living a life in exile. Of the first 860 sent there, 265 died within a few months. Today the large hospital is still in use as a general hospital and they have an interesting leprosy museum which still even has the microscope slide samples of the lepers and equipment. It seems that when people were eventually allowed to leave the island most people stayed and were joined by their families and loved ones so most of the people there today are ex-lepers and descendents of the lepers. We spent an interesting afternoon exploring the place. It has lots of old timber houses and big trees and a hill right in the middle with little lanes winding up it. There is a big renovated Spanish Church on top of the hill and a great big medical sign carved into the side of another hill with a big statue of the American (Wade) who started the whole thing.
Miles: 13 TTT: 1156
Tuesday 20 March – Culion Town – Bulalacao Island
11°45.618N / 120°10.887E
Left at 10 and motored to Bulalacao Island on the west side which was gorgeous – lovely white sand beach, good looking coral but it was too deep to anchor for the night so we had to go around the other side and anchored in 15m on coral rubble in an uninspiring anchorage with mangroves. Still night though.
Miles: 21 TTT: 1177
Wednesday 21 March – Bulalacao Island – Halsey Harbour
11°47.436N 119°57.910E
Departed at 8.30 and headed for Ditaytayan Island but it was a bit deep and because the depths were all over the place we presumed we were over coral so decided not to risk anchoring. On shore was a private property sign. We followed Braveheart through a channel between two islands which was very pretty but it started to rain as we went through so headed to the shelter of Halsey Harbour – it bucketed down. We saw Cilantro lose a bit of foam from their boat so we went to retrieve it – took four goes – our man overboard skills could do with some work! Came into the harbour and it was very deep but managed to find 16m in the NW arm. The fishermen sold Braveheart some prawns but we missed out. We had heard such a lot about the Halsey Harbour prawns!!
Miles: 32 `TTT: 1188
Thursday 22 March – Halsey Harbour
Happy Birthday Jean (WDTW)
Cilantro had to work on their engine so we stayed put. The skipper cleaned the stainless and the crew made a birthday cake for Judy off Braveheart – It was a rather flat chocolate cake as we only have all purpose flour!!
Friday 23 March – Halsey Harbour- Happy 60th Birthday Judy
And we finished the week by celeb rating Judy’s (Braveheart) birthday.
The wind was still blowing pretty hard so we decided to stay put. The crew decorated the birthday cake and made a damper (also flat with the all purpose flour) but delicious! The skipper watched The Last Samurai and then Cilantro collected us in their dinghy at 3pm and we went to Braveheart to celebrate Judy’s 60th birthday. There was plenty of good food – Cilantro even brought out the good cheese they had been harbouring since KK!! Judy made a lasagne and we all managed to keep ourselves fully amused till way after dark! Good food, good company, good music and a good time was had by all!!!
We are thrilled to hear the election results and just have to say good on you Queensland!!!! We are floating around up here – slowly heading up and around the islands to the north of the big Palawan island and will slowly make our way back down towards Puerto Princessa. Hope all are well. Take care. Miss you all. Hope Rosie is not aging too quickly.
Love
Dell and Peter
We started the week by celebrating Chris’ birthday.
Sunday 18 March – Puerto del Sol – Coron Town
11°59.739N / 120°11.614E
At Tangatt Island we snorkelled over a Japanese gun boat which was really great. The bow of the boat was in about 3m and the stern in plus 10m with all coral and bits growing on it.. The coral on the drop off was good too. It was the first time it made us feel that we would like to dive. There were a couple of divers there obviously learners and it looked kind of good. We had to anchor in 24m of water to be able to get to the wreck so it was a day stop only. There is another wreck that is fairly shallow but we haven’t been able to get in there. Then headed back to Coron Town
Monday 19 March – Coron Town to Culion Town
11°53.163N 120°01.454E
We motored to Culion Town. This was the biggest leper colony in the world which opened in 1906 started by the Americans. For the next fifty plus years, until a cure was found and administered to all, lepers from all over the Philippines were rounded up and placed on the island. There, research and treatment were carried out by dedicated doctors and staff. One of the American doctors refused to leave and died on the island at the age of 82. But until a cure was found being sent to Culion Island meant being taken from their families and living a life in exile. Of the first 860 sent there, 265 died within a few months. Today the large hospital is still in use as a general hospital and they have an interesting leprosy museum which still even has the microscope slide samples of the lepers and equipment. It seems that when people were eventually allowed to leave the island most people stayed and were joined by their families and loved ones so most of the people there today are ex-lepers and descendents of the lepers. We spent an interesting afternoon exploring the place. It has lots of old timber houses and big trees and a hill right in the middle with little lanes winding up it. There is a big renovated Spanish Church on top of the hill and a great big medical sign carved into the side of another hill with a big statue of the American (Wade) who started the whole thing.
Miles: 13 TTT: 1156
Tuesday 20 March – Culion Town – Bulalacao Island
11°45.618N / 120°10.887E
Left at 10 and motored to Bulalacao Island on the west side which was gorgeous – lovely white sand beach, good looking coral but it was too deep to anchor for the night so we had to go around the other side and anchored in 15m on coral rubble in an uninspiring anchorage with mangroves. Still night though.
Miles: 21 TTT: 1177
Wednesday 21 March – Bulalacao Island – Halsey Harbour
11°47.436N 119°57.910E
Departed at 8.30 and headed for Ditaytayan Island but it was a bit deep and because the depths were all over the place we presumed we were over coral so decided not to risk anchoring. On shore was a private property sign. We followed Braveheart through a channel between two islands which was very pretty but it started to rain as we went through so headed to the shelter of Halsey Harbour – it bucketed down. We saw Cilantro lose a bit of foam from their boat so we went to retrieve it – took four goes – our man overboard skills could do with some work! Came into the harbour and it was very deep but managed to find 16m in the NW arm. The fishermen sold Braveheart some prawns but we missed out. We had heard such a lot about the Halsey Harbour prawns!!
Miles: 32 `TTT: 1188
Thursday 22 March – Halsey Harbour
Happy Birthday Jean (WDTW)
Cilantro had to work on their engine so we stayed put. The skipper cleaned the stainless and the crew made a birthday cake for Judy off Braveheart – It was a rather flat chocolate cake as we only have all purpose flour!!
Friday 23 March – Halsey Harbour- Happy 60th Birthday Judy
And we finished the week by celeb rating Judy’s (Braveheart) birthday.
The wind was still blowing pretty hard so we decided to stay put. The crew decorated the birthday cake and made a damper (also flat with the all purpose flour) but delicious! The skipper watched The Last Samurai and then Cilantro collected us in their dinghy at 3pm and we went to Braveheart to celebrate Judy’s 60th birthday. There was plenty of good food – Cilantro even brought out the good cheese they had been harbouring since KK!! Judy made a lasagne and we all managed to keep ourselves fully amused till way after dark! Good food, good company, good music and a good time was had by all!!!
We are thrilled to hear the election results and just have to say good on you Queensland!!!! We are floating around up here – slowly heading up and around the islands to the north of the big Palawan island and will slowly make our way back down towards Puerto Princessa. Hope all are well. Take care. Miss you all. Hope Rosie is not aging too quickly.
Love
Dell and Peter
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