Saturday 19 Feb –Surins
We had a really rough night with the swell coming through. A fishing boat had left the big yellow buoy in front of Cilantro so we headed over and took that one up. We jumped in Bob and went up through the channel where the really good coral was supposed to be but it was all dead so we didn’t bother snorkelling. Went back to the beach where we had first been and snorkelled there but the coral was all dead and there weren’t many fish. So we tried the other side near the boats but it was the same. A yacht left so we moved buoys a bit closer in away from where all the fishing boats raft up and give their catch to the waiting boat which must then deliver it to the market. Had sundowners with Cilantro and planned for next day. The Surins were a big disappointment.
Sunday 20 Feb – Surins – Koh Bungu Similan Islands
08°40.524N 097°38.737E
We left at 6.45 in sloppy seas with no wind so we motored. We put the spinnaker up but it was only up for 15 minutes then it fell in the water! Peter hooked a 5 ft wahoo and got it to the back of the boat – biggest fish we have ever seen – but it bit through the wire trace when he tried to gaff it. We tied up on a buoy at Koh Bangu at 4.15. There were fish everywhere under the boat so we jumped in to watch them – big fish and all different sorts. A lady of the German yacht next to us snorkelled by following a turtle and it came right up to her about a foot away from her face. Really beautiful turtle. A lovely place. The rangers came out and collected 400 bht each ($13) and 100 bht for the boat per day. We had a quiet night on board with Cilantro on the next buoy.
Monday 21 Feb – Koh Bungu
At 10am all the speedboats came in and bought heaps of snorkelers. We had a snorkel at lunch time when they had left. Heaps of huge big colourful fish. The reef is pretty much dead but the fish are fabulous. In the afternoon Cilantro collected us in their dinghy and we went across the channel to Island 8 (there are 9 islands in the Similan group) which is where the ranger station is. It has a beautiful beach and big boulders all round and is full of boats and tourists. We had a look around and went up the walk to the high boulders which overlooks both islands (8 and 9). Fabulous view. We had a swim and waited till all the tour boats left – the beach was lovely without anyone on it. Had sundowners on Pacific Express.
Tuesday 22 Feb – Koh Banhu to Koh Miang (island 4) Similans
Had a snorkel at 9am – all the boats came in at 10am and they were hand feeding the turtle with bananas. This explained why the turtle was so friendly!!! We left at 12.15 and motored to Koh Miang (Island 4) where we tied up on a buoy but it was too rough. Cilantro went around the other side of the island and radioed that it was better so we went round there too and tied up to a buoy –anchoring is only allowed in really deep water. We picked Cilantro up in Bob and went to shore for a swim. It is pure white sand with clear aqua water – just gorgeous. We had sundowners on our boat watching schools of lovely fish all around the boat. Had a lovely still night.
Wednesday 23 Feb – Koh Miang Similans
Cilantro left at 6.30 to head back to the mainland. Their visa is almost up and then they return to Australia for three weeks. After they left it got really rough here so we left to circumnavigate the southern three islands. The southern one had a gorgeous beach but only one buoy and unfortunately someone was on it. Came back to Koh Miang and tied up on the buoy Cilantro had been on. Went for a snorkel and saw a huge cow fish red with white spots and also another one with army camouflage and big cow eyes. Not sure if they weren’t some sort of puffer fish or cow fish. But very pretty. Tried snorkelling in a few different places and then back to the boat. The seas have settled a bit but it is still rocky.
Thursday 24 Feb – Koh Miang to Ban Thap Lamu
08°34.144N 098°13.032E
Woke at 2am with very strong winds and lightning high in the clouds all around us but no thunder. The large ketch anchored next to us started dragging backwards at a great rate of knots. We could hear thunder but the storm passed about 10 miles south of us. Daylight found us side on to the swell and rolling quite a bit so dropped the buoy and headed for the mainland. Thought we could see small dolphins frolicking around us but we think they may have been very large tuna! It was a lumpy trip till we got closer to the mainland and then the seas flattened out. We had wind on the nose all the way but just as we were going into Khao Lak it went SW (supposed to be NE) and the sky had a strange look and the weather felt weird so we went another 10nm up to the river at Ban Thap Lamu where the naval base is. We came in a picked up a buoy (which saved us putting our anchor in the mud!) Had a really peaceful night and slept really well.
Friday 25 Feb – Ban Thap Lamu – Khao Lak
It was a beautiful day so we went across the river to the town to get our internet topped up. Its rather a smelly kind of place. The last time we were here there were heaps of fishing boats all rafted up and the river was brown. There’s not half as many boats now and the river is a lovely green. Had lunch and then headed back up to Khao Lak where we hope to catch up with Peter’s cousin from Germany. We anchored off the little plastic jetty and went in for dinner at the beach side restaurant. As soon as we got to the jetty a young man came down to ask us about the boat and where we were from as he is trying to convince his wife to go sailing. He even offered us the use of the shower in his unit! We went for a walk up the street to see a bit of the town and to work out where we are to tell Peter’s cousin Axel and his wife Elisabeth. We last saw them about 27 years ago when we visited them in Germany. We came back and had a lovely dinner chatting to the couple at the table next door as they would like to have a sailing holiday here in December.
Well we have booked ourselves on the Sail Malaysia rally to the East leaving at the end of April. It will take us down the west coast of Malaysia and half way up the east coast and then across to Borneo – Sarawak and Sabah. If you are interested the website is www.sailmalaysia.net. There is also the Rainforest World Music Festival on in July in Kuching (www.rainforestmusic-borneo.com) so have bought three day passes for that. The rally ends in August. There are quite a few boats that we know doing it and at the end of it will be decision time for us all as to which direction we go next.
Meanwhile take care.
Calm seas be careful what you wish for!!
Dell and Peter
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Monday, February 21, 2011
Sat 12 to Fri 18 Feb - Koh Phayam to Surin Isles
Saturday 12 Feb - Koh Phayam
Bit blowy but sunny. Went ashore at 11 and walked to the middle of the beach where a cement path went up. There are no roads, just wide footpaths and no cars only motorbikes. People are taken to their rooms by motorbike taxi. It was a beautiful walk with a few shops/stores along the way and we noticed lots of cashew nut trees. The nut grows at the end of a fruit. Peter tried to bite the cashew out if its shell but his mouth started burning - we have since found out that they are poisonous! We saw the nuts laid out to dry and then we came across a lady who was shelling them with a machine operated by foot pedal. There are lots of large solar panels everywhere. Also a lot of rubber trees. We walked about 5 km. Stopped at halfway and had a wonderful pineapple shake - lots of ice - which helped soother Peter's lips!!! There are two piers at the village - one has a Bhuddist temple at the end of it and the other is where the tour boats come in. We had a lovely lunch and could see a squirrel in a cage in the street - next thing the people took it down and were kicking it around with the poor little squirrel in it - looked terribly cruel. Then they poured water over it. Seems that it had got covered in green ants and they were trying to get them off - sadly the poor little thing died - was horrible. We took another footpath back - not so well used by bikes and no shops but very interesting - lots of huts where people lived and the odd mansion and we came back out on to the beach at the other end. Came back with a few beer stops and ended up at the Hornbill again where we sat and watched the sun set and shared a couple of appetisers which thankfully were huge. We were sitting on plastic chairs and James got his caught in a crack in the floor and he went over flat on his back! We adjourned to the Froggy restaurant where we were warned that there would be a bit of a wait as they were serving about six people on another table. To cut a long story short we waited 1 ½ hrs watching the other table get heaps of food. When we finally got ours it was very small and one of the worst meals we have ever had. And it was also expensive. The crispy tuna salad appeared to be the dregs that float on the top of the fryer and was totally inedible. The cat even ran away! So our early night ended up very late and was a disappointing finish to a wonderful day.
Bit blowy but sunny. Went ashore at 11 and walked to the middle of the beach where a cement path went up. There are no roads, just wide footpaths and no cars only motorbikes. People are taken to their rooms by motorbike taxi. It was a beautiful walk with a few shops/stores along the way and we noticed lots of cashew nut trees. The nut grows at the end of a fruit. Peter tried to bite the cashew out if its shell but his mouth started burning - we have since found out that they are poisonous! We saw the nuts laid out to dry and then we came across a lady who was shelling them with a machine operated by foot pedal. There are lots of large solar panels everywhere. Also a lot of rubber trees. We walked about 5 km. Stopped at halfway and had a wonderful pineapple shake - lots of ice - which helped soother Peter's lips!!! There are two piers at the village - one has a Bhuddist temple at the end of it and the other is where the tour boats come in. We had a lovely lunch and could see a squirrel in a cage in the street - next thing the people took it down and were kicking it around with the poor little squirrel in it - looked terribly cruel. Then they poured water over it. Seems that it had got covered in green ants and they were trying to get them off - sadly the poor little thing died - was horrible. We took another footpath back - not so well used by bikes and no shops but very interesting - lots of huts where people lived and the odd mansion and we came back out on to the beach at the other end. Came back with a few beer stops and ended up at the Hornbill again where we sat and watched the sun set and shared a couple of appetisers which thankfully were huge. We were sitting on plastic chairs and James got his caught in a crack in the floor and he went over flat on his back! We adjourned to the Froggy restaurant where we were warned that there would be a bit of a wait as they were serving about six people on another table. To cut a long story short we waited 1 ½ hrs watching the other table get heaps of food. When we finally got ours it was very small and one of the worst meals we have ever had. And it was also expensive. The crispy tuna salad appeared to be the dregs that float on the top of the fryer and was totally inedible. The cat even ran away! So our early night ended up very late and was a disappointing finish to a wonderful day.
Sunday 13 Feb - Koh Phayam
Had a very late start to the day then Mandolin Wind called us up on the radio so we waited till they and Braveheart got in. Saw something spiralling towards the water from a great height and were amazed to see it was two eagles joined together just spiralling down. When they were almost at the water they pulled apart and flew away. We went ashore at 2pm. Sandra and Dell walked to the shops up the footpath and bought some sandles, cakes and cashewnuts while the boys settled into a bar. It was a lot hotter today. We walked back to our dinghies and had a swim. At 6.30 we collected Cilantro and met up with Braveheart and Mandolin Wind so all went to the Hornbill restaurant and another English couple joined us. We are amazed at how people actually find these wonderful little out of the way places. It is by no means crowded but all the little huts and units seem to be full. It is a really laid back place. We had a lovely night. As we were coming out in Bob the only wave for the day broke over us and Sandra and Dell got soaked. But a lovely day.
Monday 14 Feb - Koh Phayam
Moved around to Buffalo Bay just around the corner. It is really pretty and is more protected with rocks at the back. Nimbus, Jellyfish and Alpha Centauri are all here. Apparently there had been a village here but it got wiped out by the tsunami so the Government built the village over the other side of the bay and the beach is now laid back little resorts and cabins. The hippy bar has been build out of scraps of wood from the sea. While we were hanging the washing we started hearing shouts for help. We could see a girl pushing through the water to shore and there was a snorkeller behind her. Then we heard what she was saying - help my boyfriend has disappeared and has not come up. So all the dinghies from all the yachts came and we were doing a bit of a grid search. The girl came out in a Thai boat from shore and one of the lads jumped in so we gave him our snorkel. It was becoming pretty clear by now that we were searching for a body and it was the most awful feeling and then there was a shout from out in the bay and there he was on a kayak. The girl was in the most awful case of shock and had cut her feet up pretty badly. When we went ashore a bit later to the hippy bar they turned up to buy us all a beer. Turned out he had followed a snorkeller to shore thinking it was her and when he found it wasn't he had gone to get the kayak to look for her. She meanwhile had followed someone else and when she realised it wasn't him and couldn't find him she panicked. Anyway alls well that ends well and we were all much relieved to see him. We joined Cilantro and Nimbus for dinner at Mr Goa's which was very pleasant indeed. While we walked along the beach a few dogs started howling and being very vocal then dogs came from everywhere and they all had a dog convention all howling for about five minutes and then they appeared happy and dispersed! Very strange.
Tuesday 15 Feb - Koh Phayam
We went to shore at 10.30 and together with Cilantro followed a hard dirt track through the jungle over the saddle in the hill. The jungle was very cool and we saw some monkeys but they ran away - seemed afraid of man. We came out on another beautiful beach with a restaurant and some cabins. One cabin was built on the rocks at the end of the beach - what a perfect spot! We walked the beach then had a swim. The water got deep rather quickly and while we were talking a big pike fish leapt out of the water behind James and Sandra startling all of us including the fish. We adjourned to the restaurant and had a lovely lunch then walked back up through the jungle. There were lots of little offshoot tracks leading down to the various resorts and restaurants. We walked till the track turned into a concrete road and then headed in to the Concept restaurant which was perched on the top of a cliff. It was very rocky offshore here. It was so lovely and cool so we had a drink then went down the stairs and walked around the headland on the rocks along the beach back to our dinghies where we had another swim and then joined Braveheart in a restaurant for a sundowner. We all adjourned back to our boats and met ashore for dinner with Cilantro, Braveheart and Mandolin Wind. Another pleasant evening.
Wednesday 16 Feb - Koh Phaya
Met Cilantro ashore at 1 and walked to the village to buy some fruit for the next section of our journey. We managed to get some warm bread rolls then walked back via the temple jetty. Sandra and James took their supplies back to their boat while we walked down to the Australian's shop to get information re Koh Chang which is the next island up. Unfortunatley they were closed so walked back and met Cilantro and Alpha Centauri at the restaurant. We had a lovely meal and saw the biggest gecko - red spots all over him. They feed him chicken and we didn't have the camera!!! He makes a very loud ge-ko sound.
Thursday 17 Feb - Koh Phayam to Koh Chang
09°50.846N 098°26.347E
We left at 10am and headed 5miles further up to Koh Chang. This is only 2 1/2miles from the Burmese border. We passed a Thai destroyer on the way. We went in between the marked rocks and the beach and it suddenly went very shallow. We think the rocks must continue to the beach. Got back into 7 metres and anchored quite close to the beach. The sand was black and not as nice as Phayam but very laid back. Restaurants and cabins on the beach. We decided to go for a walk but had trouble locating the path. Walked to a dam and instead of tracing our steps we went on and fournd the pier but there were no further footpaths. Suffice to say we walked for four hours - found the gypsy village down a little dirt track through jungle - we didn't mean to find it!!!! Anyway we eventually found our way back to the beach - saw some hornbill birds. Had a beer in three different restaurants - we were gasping and then went back to the first one to eat. Had a lovely meal then an early night!!
Friday 18 Feb - Koh Chang to Surins
Left at 7am and headed out and followed the red line of the border with Burma on the chartplotter. Caused a bit of a dog leg but though it was better to be safe than sorry!! Motored all day- light winds but not in the right direction. Peter actually caught his first fish in 18 months - an 81cm Spanish mackerel. Fish for dinner! We arrived at the Surin Islands (3 clustered islands) at 3.30. Cilantro picked up a big yellow buoy and we went to the other side of the bay and picked up a red buoy not too far from the beach so we are in a top spot.
Hoping you are all well - missing you
Calm seas but a bit of wind would be good
Dell and Peter
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Sunday, February 13, 2011
5 – 11 February – Koh Muk to Koh Phayam
Saturday 5 Feb– Koh Muk to Panwa Bali
Left at 6.30am & stopped at 11.30 to put Bob on board as he was slowing us down. Had a good sail day with intermittent motoring. Peter saw a sailfish break the water. We checked out the fishing island Ko Mai Thon but it was a very small anchorage so we kept going to Panwa Bali which is opposite Ao Chalong and anchored at 5.30pm next to Cilantro who rowed over for sundowners.
Sunday 6 Feb – Panwa Bali to Ko Racha Yai
Unanchored at 10am heading to Ko Racha Yai which was two hours away. It was a very rough trip over but we sailed all the way. A very pretty bay with crystal clear water but awash with tour boats. We anchored and waited till the tour boats left and then went ashore. Tied up to the floating jetty as it was too rocky to get to the beach. There is quite an exclusive resort so everything was expensive, even the beachside bars. As Peter was walking along the path a huge monitor lizard was ambling along in front of him. Apparently there are a lot on this island. We walked to the other side of the island where the bay is too shallow and rocky for boats to get in and there weren’t many people around but the beers were even more expensive. Came back just on dusk and ate a mediocre meal and then back to the boats.
Monday 7 Feb- Ko Racha Yai to Nai Harn
Upanchored at 10am and did a trolling run along the island to no avail (we haven’t caught a fish forever!!!!) and then headed to a very crowded Ao Chalong where we managed to squeeze in among the other yachts. We went to check in to Thailand while Cilantro went to retrieve their dinghy and motor, both of which had been in for repair. Got back to the boats about 3.30 and proceeded around the headland to Nai Harn where we anchored for the night quite close to Braveheart. We went in Cilantro’s dinghy to shore and had a lovely meal which was a little more expensive than usual but that is the difference between high season and low season (still cheap though!!). The waves were small but breaking so it was with trepidation that Dell got in the dinghy!! But we made it out without mishap!
Tuesday 8 February – Nai Harn to Ao Bang Tao
Departed at 8am for Patong – not much wind so motor sailed. We walked to the supermarket and then the wet market to get our supplies then caught a tuk tuk back. Got quite wet getting into Bob to go back to the boat but we are starting to get used to that again!!! We left at 3.30 and sailed to Ao Bang Tao arriving around 5.30. Braveheart and Mandolin Wind were anchored and invited us in to dinner but we had a quiet night on board.
Wednesday 9 February – Ao Bang Tao – Kao Lak
09°10’315N 098°18’476E
Left just after 8 and went around to Nai Yang Bay and said hullo to Wavesweeper and Single Malt who had just returned from where we are going and got some good information from them. Then we continued on up the coast – sailed most of the way with intermittent motoring. Arrived at Kao Lak around 5.30. It was a strange place to get into – lots of rocks - and we had an exhilarating moment when the water shallowed up and depths went all over the place – rocks underneath we think. Went a bit further north and nudged it in to 4m just off a little floating plastic jetty. Cilantro picked us up at 6.30 and we tied up at the jetty as the beach had quite a steep drop off to the water. To the left of the jetty were lots of resorts and to the right of the jetty were lots of little restaurants on the beach. While Patong is full of Russians this place seems to have a German influence and in fact we hope to meet up with Peter’s German cousin here on our return. We walked along the beach and inspected all the menus and came back to the first one which seemed to be the most popular. We asked to see the menu and he snatched them off a couple already seated and gave to us – we hoped they had finished with them!!! We were seated at a table on the beach. We had the loveliest tastiest meal. The boys went down to the water in the dark to “inspect the sea”. The English lady asked “are they inspecting the sea!” She didn’t really but you get my drift!!!! Anyway we got talking to her and her Dutch husband and they joined us at our table It was a very enjoyable evening with very good company and we had quite a laugh. When we went back the jetty was all lit up and it was very pretty.
Thursday 10 Feb – Kao Lak – Ban Pak Chok – Happy Birthday Patrick
09°10’315N 098°18’476E
We left at 8am. We headed back out the way we came in and even then cut a corner a bit fine!! Cilantro headed up the coast through the shallow water and were mostly in 2.5m. The sea was very calm and we motored all day though we did put up our mainsails in hope. We got to the entrance to the channel behind the island of Koh Phra Thong around 1pm. We dropped the mains and we suddenly went down to 2.1m under the keel and we could see the sandy bottom. Once we got into the channel it was deep water again. We motored all the way up the channel arriving at 3.30. It was quite a pretty trip between Koh Phra Thong and the mainland and we saw something that looked as though it may once have been a dirt bunker. Must look up some history on the place. An interesting day seeing places we have never been before. We anchored in 4.3m and had such a still night. The mossies came out so we locked ourselves below with a fan and watched part 1 of The Lord of the Rings.
Friday 11 Feb – Ban Pak Chok – Ko Phayam
09°43’587N 098°23’102E
Left at 8am and went down to 1.3m under the keel on the way out. Motored till the channel came out in the ocean and we sailed for three hours then motored for a while. Two large fishing boats passed us and as they got in front we could smell them – not nice! Dodged a few fish traps – some with flags, some escaped and floating and arrived at Koh Phayam at 3.30. We are now just 6 miles from the Burmese seaward border and around 15 miles from the land border. We are at a lovely island in a sheltered bay. The beach is very hard and motor bikes go up and down it but at the high water mark the sand is lovely and soft and white. There are lots of little restaurants along the beach so we walked half way along the beach and went to one (Joker) and had a beer but couldn’t get served again to order food. So we went to the restaurant next door and ordered two dishes between the four of us then went to Hornbills and ordered another two – beautiful food. Left to try the next restaurant (Froggy) but their kitchen closed at 10 and as it was now 9.30 it was closed! Went back to the Cuisine and had another two meals and the lady told us not many tourists come because there is no air con and no TV. We had noticed a whole stack of batteries so deduced there is only self generated power. We came out to the boat in the dark but couldn’t see or hear James and Sandra so went back in to check. On the way out they had run over the line to a little red boat which was on a buoy. James said to Sandra I think we are towing that boat and sure enough the line had attached itself to them !!! So they took the boat to shore and pulled it high up on the beach – we arrived in time to help. Not sure what the owner of the red boat will say when he finds it way up the beach but at least it’s safe! The beach actually dries a long way out so at low tide its quite a way.
Well we are on our way again on a journey to new places and it feels more like we have a purpose now. Give Jessie, Charlie and our little Rosie cuddles from us – we miss them.
Calm seas and fair winds
Dell and Peter
Left at 6.30am & stopped at 11.30 to put Bob on board as he was slowing us down. Had a good sail day with intermittent motoring. Peter saw a sailfish break the water. We checked out the fishing island Ko Mai Thon but it was a very small anchorage so we kept going to Panwa Bali which is opposite Ao Chalong and anchored at 5.30pm next to Cilantro who rowed over for sundowners.
Sunday 6 Feb – Panwa Bali to Ko Racha Yai
Unanchored at 10am heading to Ko Racha Yai which was two hours away. It was a very rough trip over but we sailed all the way. A very pretty bay with crystal clear water but awash with tour boats. We anchored and waited till the tour boats left and then went ashore. Tied up to the floating jetty as it was too rocky to get to the beach. There is quite an exclusive resort so everything was expensive, even the beachside bars. As Peter was walking along the path a huge monitor lizard was ambling along in front of him. Apparently there are a lot on this island. We walked to the other side of the island where the bay is too shallow and rocky for boats to get in and there weren’t many people around but the beers were even more expensive. Came back just on dusk and ate a mediocre meal and then back to the boats.
Monday 7 Feb- Ko Racha Yai to Nai Harn
Upanchored at 10am and did a trolling run along the island to no avail (we haven’t caught a fish forever!!!!) and then headed to a very crowded Ao Chalong where we managed to squeeze in among the other yachts. We went to check in to Thailand while Cilantro went to retrieve their dinghy and motor, both of which had been in for repair. Got back to the boats about 3.30 and proceeded around the headland to Nai Harn where we anchored for the night quite close to Braveheart. We went in Cilantro’s dinghy to shore and had a lovely meal which was a little more expensive than usual but that is the difference between high season and low season (still cheap though!!). The waves were small but breaking so it was with trepidation that Dell got in the dinghy!! But we made it out without mishap!
Tuesday 8 February – Nai Harn to Ao Bang Tao
Departed at 8am for Patong – not much wind so motor sailed. We walked to the supermarket and then the wet market to get our supplies then caught a tuk tuk back. Got quite wet getting into Bob to go back to the boat but we are starting to get used to that again!!! We left at 3.30 and sailed to Ao Bang Tao arriving around 5.30. Braveheart and Mandolin Wind were anchored and invited us in to dinner but we had a quiet night on board.
Wednesday 9 February – Ao Bang Tao – Kao Lak
09°10’315N 098°18’476E
Left just after 8 and went around to Nai Yang Bay and said hullo to Wavesweeper and Single Malt who had just returned from where we are going and got some good information from them. Then we continued on up the coast – sailed most of the way with intermittent motoring. Arrived at Kao Lak around 5.30. It was a strange place to get into – lots of rocks - and we had an exhilarating moment when the water shallowed up and depths went all over the place – rocks underneath we think. Went a bit further north and nudged it in to 4m just off a little floating plastic jetty. Cilantro picked us up at 6.30 and we tied up at the jetty as the beach had quite a steep drop off to the water. To the left of the jetty were lots of resorts and to the right of the jetty were lots of little restaurants on the beach. While Patong is full of Russians this place seems to have a German influence and in fact we hope to meet up with Peter’s German cousin here on our return. We walked along the beach and inspected all the menus and came back to the first one which seemed to be the most popular. We asked to see the menu and he snatched them off a couple already seated and gave to us – we hoped they had finished with them!!! We were seated at a table on the beach. We had the loveliest tastiest meal. The boys went down to the water in the dark to “inspect the sea”. The English lady asked “are they inspecting the sea!” She didn’t really but you get my drift!!!! Anyway we got talking to her and her Dutch husband and they joined us at our table It was a very enjoyable evening with very good company and we had quite a laugh. When we went back the jetty was all lit up and it was very pretty.
Thursday 10 Feb – Kao Lak – Ban Pak Chok – Happy Birthday Patrick
09°10’315N 098°18’476E
We left at 8am. We headed back out the way we came in and even then cut a corner a bit fine!! Cilantro headed up the coast through the shallow water and were mostly in 2.5m. The sea was very calm and we motored all day though we did put up our mainsails in hope. We got to the entrance to the channel behind the island of Koh Phra Thong around 1pm. We dropped the mains and we suddenly went down to 2.1m under the keel and we could see the sandy bottom. Once we got into the channel it was deep water again. We motored all the way up the channel arriving at 3.30. It was quite a pretty trip between Koh Phra Thong and the mainland and we saw something that looked as though it may once have been a dirt bunker. Must look up some history on the place. An interesting day seeing places we have never been before. We anchored in 4.3m and had such a still night. The mossies came out so we locked ourselves below with a fan and watched part 1 of The Lord of the Rings.
Friday 11 Feb – Ban Pak Chok – Ko Phayam
09°43’587N 098°23’102E
Left at 8am and went down to 1.3m under the keel on the way out. Motored till the channel came out in the ocean and we sailed for three hours then motored for a while. Two large fishing boats passed us and as they got in front we could smell them – not nice! Dodged a few fish traps – some with flags, some escaped and floating and arrived at Koh Phayam at 3.30. We are now just 6 miles from the Burmese seaward border and around 15 miles from the land border. We are at a lovely island in a sheltered bay. The beach is very hard and motor bikes go up and down it but at the high water mark the sand is lovely and soft and white. There are lots of little restaurants along the beach so we walked half way along the beach and went to one (Joker) and had a beer but couldn’t get served again to order food. So we went to the restaurant next door and ordered two dishes between the four of us then went to Hornbills and ordered another two – beautiful food. Left to try the next restaurant (Froggy) but their kitchen closed at 10 and as it was now 9.30 it was closed! Went back to the Cuisine and had another two meals and the lady told us not many tourists come because there is no air con and no TV. We had noticed a whole stack of batteries so deduced there is only self generated power. We came out to the boat in the dark but couldn’t see or hear James and Sandra so went back in to check. On the way out they had run over the line to a little red boat which was on a buoy. James said to Sandra I think we are towing that boat and sure enough the line had attached itself to them !!! So they took the boat to shore and pulled it high up on the beach – we arrived in time to help. Not sure what the owner of the red boat will say when he finds it way up the beach but at least it’s safe! The beach actually dries a long way out so at low tide its quite a way.
Well we are on our way again on a journey to new places and it feels more like we have a purpose now. Give Jessie, Charlie and our little Rosie cuddles from us – we miss them.
Calm seas and fair winds
Dell and Peter
Thursday, February 10, 2011
15 Jan to 4 Feb - Thailand/Malaysia
Saturday 15 Jan – Happy Birthday Kristen
We got up at 6.30 and went into the beach for a walk. Lots of people sleeping on the beach but nice and quiet and lovely to see it without the crowds. Left at 9.15 and sailed along nicely with the main and headsail - we think we have gained at least 1 – 2 knots in speed since having the boat painted. The deck used to be a pale grey but now it is white and we cant believe the difference it makes – we can actually stand on it now without it burning our feet – its fantastic. The only downside is white tends to get a bit dirty!! Sailed to Ao Chalong , shopped and had dinner at Took’s new restaurant which was a bit embarrassing as it was obvious she wasn’t ready to open yet but cooked us up a good meal anyway.
Sunday 16 Jan
Boat cleaning day getting ready for the survey we have to have on the boat before our insurance company will insure us again. Our insurance company – Yacht Sure set us adrift before Christmas and refused to cover us till we had the survey despite the fact we had paid for a year’s cover. We managed to get the third party reinstated but only after Christmas as no-one was at work. Made us wonder how hard/easy it would be to get help and make a claim! Went to the Anchor Inn for dinner – really good food.
Monday 17 Jan
Brett and I caught the bus to Phuket town – the bus is an open sided truck - and Peter picked up the surveyor. The survey took four hours and went well then Peter checked us all out of Thailand. Meanwhile Brett went to the physio and then we had a lovely lunch. Brett had squid stuffed with pork which turned out to be very nice and we wished we had taken a photo! All back on board, the weather came up a bit so Peter cooked a slap up meal and we ate on board.
Tuesday 18 Jan
We left Ao Chalong in strong winds and larger seas than we had seen in a while. The boys were fine but I went below succumbing to seasickness! The angle of the wind brought us in to Phi Phi Le but there were no spare buoys so just as we were turning away one of the boats dropped a mooring and the boys couldn’t believe their luck and picked it up immediately. We went for a snorkel as conditions were finally perfect! We saw the biggest school of parrot fish with other kinds mixed in and it was a great snorkel and a lovely evening.
Wednesday 19 Jan
Left Phi Phi Le around 9 and anchored at Ko Lanta after 12. We went ashore and found our little bar and the people remembered us from when we were there with Debbie and Phil. We were offered some snake whisky – same snakes in the bottle – they just keep topping up the whisky and so unhygenic!!! We passed on the offer. Had a swim then back to the boat and back in again for dinner. Another pleasant evening on the beach!
Thursday 20 Jan
Motor sailed to Ko Muk and then took Bob around to the Emerald cave. We managed to catch it with hardly any tourists in there. Then we went around the little rocky cove and had a swim. We have never managed to anchor here as there is always a boat in there and it is really only big enough for one boat. Went back to the boat and then to the little local restaurant on the cliff at the end of the beach and had a fabulous cheap meal and watched another gorgeous sunset.
Friday 21 Jan
Departed early and watched the most amazing sunrise – a big orange ball coming up out of the sea. We arrived at Tarutao around 3pm and anchored quite close in and went for a walk. The sandflies attacked Peter. Brett found a soccer ball (or two) washed up on the beach so we had a bit of a kick around then went for a swim to get rid of the sandflies. They stayed with Peter all the way back to the boat!!
Saturday 22 Jan
Left Tarutao and headed for Telaga in Malaysia but it was very crowded with boats and too shallow for spring tides so went to the beaches and nudged our way in and anchored in about 4m. Went ashore and had a look around and ended up eating at Raffi’s bar – best food and a lovely witty waiter named Aslan. There was a live band next door so we ended up there and had a wonderful time. When we came ashore it was low tide so took Bob up the beach and didn’t tie him off and by the time we got back to him – about 1.30am – the water was lapping at his heels!! A great night.
Sunday 23 Jan
Left the beaches around 11 and sailed around to Kuah. Peter checked us into Malaysia while Brett and I shopped. Dined at the local Chinese.
Monday 24 Jan
Saw Braveheart come in so went to say hullo. We did some shopping then met Braveheart to help them celebrate their 84th wedding anniversary – 42 years for Judy and 42 years for Chris!!
Tuesday 25 Jan
Left in a fair amount of breeze and headed back around to the beaches. Nudged in a little bit further and went into dinner at Raffis where Aslan greeted us all by name. A lovely evening.
Wednesday 26 Jan – Happy Australia Day
Headed back round to Telaga hoping to go up in the cable car. Anchored outside the anchorage, took Bob to shore and walked to the cable car, looked around then waited in line till it opened at 12. At 12 a notice went up to say that it was too windy and it wouldn’t be opening! So walked back to Bob and on the way back to the boat the outboard stopped. We thought we were going to have to row the rest of the way but we got it going again – it stopped about three times. Turned out to be dirty fuel but all fixed now. We arrived at Rebak marina and tied up to our berth, checked in, had a welcome shower and then had a slap up meal at the Hard Dock cafe.
Thursday 27 Jan
Brett finally got to go up the mast for Peter to fix a line. It was a little more exhilarating than he expected but he enjoyed the experience and got some good photos. We then caught the launch across to Langkawi, collected our hire car and found a chinese place to have some lunch. Then we took Brett to the airport for his trip home. We really enjoyed his company and I think he enjoyed his time with us – we know he really enjoyed the gastromic experience!!! He loves his food!
Friday 28 Jan – Sun 30th Jan
Started a clean up of the boat putting things where they actually go as we hadn’t had a chance to do that before and getting the boat cleaned and ship shape. Peter serviced the motor, the curtains went back up, the outboard was serviced. Dug our tv out from under the back bunk and worked out how we could install it – its been under the back bunk for almost two years!
Monday 31 Jan
Left Rebak and went back around to Kuah. Caught a taxi to collect our wine from the warehouse and ordered the beer from the jetty lady. Had a wonderful meal at the Asian restaurant and met some yachties who have been up here for some years – interesting people.
Tuesday 1 Feb
Went to town and bought a car stereo dvd / cd player and Peter installed the tv and dvd player and wired it all in so we don’t have wires hanging around everywhere. We did our shopping and found a shop selling cheap dvds. Ate on board and watched a dvd – The Sorcerers Apprentice – because we could!!
Wednesday 2 Feb – Happy Birthday Brett
Quiet boat day and a final shop for supplies.
Thursday 3 Feb
Checked out of Malaysia at 9.30 and headed to Telaga where we took on 300 litres of diesel – 690RM ($230) and headed for Tarutao. Uneventful sailing trip and anchored around 6pm. There was so much phospherence in the water. Saw five monkeys and a pig on the beach and a man camping in a tent in the bushes. Wind gusted very strongly through the night.
Friday 4 Feb
Left at 6.30am – it was just light. Had a good sail in the morning but by afternoon the wind had dropped off and we motored the rest of the way to Koh Muk arriving at 3.30pm. Went to our little restaurant on the hill for dinner. As the tide starting coming in small waves started breaking on the beach so left just on dark while we could still see the waves.
Well we have almost brought you up to date. We are at the stage where we need to do some serious cruising again. Heading up to the Burmese border and then out to the islands next week and trying to decide what we will do this year. The Eastern Malaysian rally is looking good at the moment. Quite a few boats are heading up through the Red Sea at the moment but that is something which is off our agenda. Anyway hope you all came through the cyclone ok. The weather here is coming good at last.
Take care
Dell and Peter
May the wind be always at your back
We got up at 6.30 and went into the beach for a walk. Lots of people sleeping on the beach but nice and quiet and lovely to see it without the crowds. Left at 9.15 and sailed along nicely with the main and headsail - we think we have gained at least 1 – 2 knots in speed since having the boat painted. The deck used to be a pale grey but now it is white and we cant believe the difference it makes – we can actually stand on it now without it burning our feet – its fantastic. The only downside is white tends to get a bit dirty!! Sailed to Ao Chalong , shopped and had dinner at Took’s new restaurant which was a bit embarrassing as it was obvious she wasn’t ready to open yet but cooked us up a good meal anyway.
Sunday 16 Jan
Boat cleaning day getting ready for the survey we have to have on the boat before our insurance company will insure us again. Our insurance company – Yacht Sure set us adrift before Christmas and refused to cover us till we had the survey despite the fact we had paid for a year’s cover. We managed to get the third party reinstated but only after Christmas as no-one was at work. Made us wonder how hard/easy it would be to get help and make a claim! Went to the Anchor Inn for dinner – really good food.
Monday 17 Jan
Brett and I caught the bus to Phuket town – the bus is an open sided truck - and Peter picked up the surveyor. The survey took four hours and went well then Peter checked us all out of Thailand. Meanwhile Brett went to the physio and then we had a lovely lunch. Brett had squid stuffed with pork which turned out to be very nice and we wished we had taken a photo! All back on board, the weather came up a bit so Peter cooked a slap up meal and we ate on board.
Tuesday 18 Jan
We left Ao Chalong in strong winds and larger seas than we had seen in a while. The boys were fine but I went below succumbing to seasickness! The angle of the wind brought us in to Phi Phi Le but there were no spare buoys so just as we were turning away one of the boats dropped a mooring and the boys couldn’t believe their luck and picked it up immediately. We went for a snorkel as conditions were finally perfect! We saw the biggest school of parrot fish with other kinds mixed in and it was a great snorkel and a lovely evening.
Wednesday 19 Jan
Left Phi Phi Le around 9 and anchored at Ko Lanta after 12. We went ashore and found our little bar and the people remembered us from when we were there with Debbie and Phil. We were offered some snake whisky – same snakes in the bottle – they just keep topping up the whisky and so unhygenic!!! We passed on the offer. Had a swim then back to the boat and back in again for dinner. Another pleasant evening on the beach!
Thursday 20 Jan
Motor sailed to Ko Muk and then took Bob around to the Emerald cave. We managed to catch it with hardly any tourists in there. Then we went around the little rocky cove and had a swim. We have never managed to anchor here as there is always a boat in there and it is really only big enough for one boat. Went back to the boat and then to the little local restaurant on the cliff at the end of the beach and had a fabulous cheap meal and watched another gorgeous sunset.
Friday 21 Jan
Departed early and watched the most amazing sunrise – a big orange ball coming up out of the sea. We arrived at Tarutao around 3pm and anchored quite close in and went for a walk. The sandflies attacked Peter. Brett found a soccer ball (or two) washed up on the beach so we had a bit of a kick around then went for a swim to get rid of the sandflies. They stayed with Peter all the way back to the boat!!
Saturday 22 Jan
Left Tarutao and headed for Telaga in Malaysia but it was very crowded with boats and too shallow for spring tides so went to the beaches and nudged our way in and anchored in about 4m. Went ashore and had a look around and ended up eating at Raffi’s bar – best food and a lovely witty waiter named Aslan. There was a live band next door so we ended up there and had a wonderful time. When we came ashore it was low tide so took Bob up the beach and didn’t tie him off and by the time we got back to him – about 1.30am – the water was lapping at his heels!! A great night.
Sunday 23 Jan
Left the beaches around 11 and sailed around to Kuah. Peter checked us into Malaysia while Brett and I shopped. Dined at the local Chinese.
Monday 24 Jan
Saw Braveheart come in so went to say hullo. We did some shopping then met Braveheart to help them celebrate their 84th wedding anniversary – 42 years for Judy and 42 years for Chris!!
Tuesday 25 Jan
Left in a fair amount of breeze and headed back around to the beaches. Nudged in a little bit further and went into dinner at Raffis where Aslan greeted us all by name. A lovely evening.
Wednesday 26 Jan – Happy Australia Day
Headed back round to Telaga hoping to go up in the cable car. Anchored outside the anchorage, took Bob to shore and walked to the cable car, looked around then waited in line till it opened at 12. At 12 a notice went up to say that it was too windy and it wouldn’t be opening! So walked back to Bob and on the way back to the boat the outboard stopped. We thought we were going to have to row the rest of the way but we got it going again – it stopped about three times. Turned out to be dirty fuel but all fixed now. We arrived at Rebak marina and tied up to our berth, checked in, had a welcome shower and then had a slap up meal at the Hard Dock cafe.
Thursday 27 Jan
Brett finally got to go up the mast for Peter to fix a line. It was a little more exhilarating than he expected but he enjoyed the experience and got some good photos. We then caught the launch across to Langkawi, collected our hire car and found a chinese place to have some lunch. Then we took Brett to the airport for his trip home. We really enjoyed his company and I think he enjoyed his time with us – we know he really enjoyed the gastromic experience!!! He loves his food!
Friday 28 Jan – Sun 30th Jan
Started a clean up of the boat putting things where they actually go as we hadn’t had a chance to do that before and getting the boat cleaned and ship shape. Peter serviced the motor, the curtains went back up, the outboard was serviced. Dug our tv out from under the back bunk and worked out how we could install it – its been under the back bunk for almost two years!
Monday 31 Jan
Left Rebak and went back around to Kuah. Caught a taxi to collect our wine from the warehouse and ordered the beer from the jetty lady. Had a wonderful meal at the Asian restaurant and met some yachties who have been up here for some years – interesting people.
Tuesday 1 Feb
Went to town and bought a car stereo dvd / cd player and Peter installed the tv and dvd player and wired it all in so we don’t have wires hanging around everywhere. We did our shopping and found a shop selling cheap dvds. Ate on board and watched a dvd – The Sorcerers Apprentice – because we could!!
Wednesday 2 Feb – Happy Birthday Brett
Quiet boat day and a final shop for supplies.
Thursday 3 Feb
Checked out of Malaysia at 9.30 and headed to Telaga where we took on 300 litres of diesel – 690RM ($230) and headed for Tarutao. Uneventful sailing trip and anchored around 6pm. There was so much phospherence in the water. Saw five monkeys and a pig on the beach and a man camping in a tent in the bushes. Wind gusted very strongly through the night.
Friday 4 Feb
Left at 6.30am – it was just light. Had a good sail in the morning but by afternoon the wind had dropped off and we motored the rest of the way to Koh Muk arriving at 3.30pm. Went to our little restaurant on the hill for dinner. As the tide starting coming in small waves started breaking on the beach so left just on dark while we could still see the waves.
Well we have almost brought you up to date. We are at the stage where we need to do some serious cruising again. Heading up to the Burmese border and then out to the islands next week and trying to decide what we will do this year. The Eastern Malaysian rally is looking good at the moment. Quite a few boats are heading up through the Red Sea at the moment but that is something which is off our agenda. Anyway hope you all came through the cyclone ok. The weather here is coming good at last.
Take care
Dell and Peter
May the wind be always at your back
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