Saturday 23 April – Penang to Pulau Rimau
05°14.805N / 100°16.687E
We found out they couldn’t get the prop speed till Tuesday so we caught the bus into town and collected the deposit we had paid – had lunch then back to the shopping centre for final supplies. Saturday seems to be shopping day as all the specials were on and the centre was very busy. Got back at 4.30, told Kristy what we were doing then upanchored and headed 5 miles down the channel. We had to avoid fish nets strung between flags and then negotiate all the pylons and machinery involved in building a new bridge – it will certainly be very long when it is finished. We anchored off Rinau Island with Cilantro, Braveheart and Spirit of Rio. A pleasant night and it will give us a head start for our long journey tomorrow.
Miles 5 Total This Trip 108 NM
Sunday 24 April – Pulau Rimau to Pulau Talang
04°25.267N / 100°34.709E
We left at daybreak around 6.45am. It was calm all morning and we counted around 100 fishing boats. Later in the morning we encountered slightly bigger fishing boats who operated in pairs towing a net between them so we were very careful not to go between them! Around lunch time the wind came up so we were able to have the main and headsail up but also motored as well. We anchored at 6pm on the eastern side of Pulau Talang
Miles 58 TTT 166 NM
Monday 25 April – Pulau Talang to Pangkor Island Marina
04°12.7N / 100°35.96E
We left at 7.30am and motored towards Pangkor Island marina. As we came opposite Pangkor Island we could see a large navy ship which had obviously come to grief. The front part was sticking up in the air and the back was under water with the middle of the infrastructure all broken. It looked as though therecould have been a fire – it had obviously been there for some time. We called up James from the marina and he told us the point to wait for him. As we were waiting we saw Braveheart come around from behind Pangkor Island so we waited for them too then marina James led us all in through the shallows to the marina – us, Cilantro and Braveheart all in a line behind James’ runabout boat. The marina staff took our lines and we were soon all tied up to our respective fingers. This is a brand new marina and the facilities etc are still under construction but there is a bar and a restaurant and marina office and karaoke rooms! Braveheart and Cilantro joined us on our finger for sundowners then we went to the restaurant for dinner.
Miles 13 TTT 179 NM
Tuesday 26 April – Pangkor Island Marina
We had to wait for high tide then Sandra and I released Pacific Express’ lines and James and Peter motored over to the boat ramp where marina James has an ingenious contraption called a Sea Lift. It is almost like a huge boat trailer which is remote controlled. Marina James uses the remote to lift the boat up and adjust it and tilt it then drive up the boat ramp with Pacific Express perched on top!! I had some exhilarating moments as it seemed to tilt a bit much when James was adjusting it!! He took it to the top of the boat ramp and the boys washed the boat down and Peter put on some primer and then hard antifoul on to the prop. Sandra and I meanwhile, along with the couple from Nimbus, were driven to Tesco in marina James’ car by one of his lovely staff. Sandra and James came around for a drink then we went to the bar for dinner. Peter and I spent a pleasant evening on Pacific Express perched high in the air overlooking the marina.
Wednesday 27 April – Pangkor Island Marina
We were put back into the water then Peter and James brought Cilantro around and they went through the same process and were also hauled out so James could do his prop as well. Marina James had taken a couple of yachties shopping and to the Harbour Master and when he came back he brought every boat a couple of cookies- such a lovely thought. At 7pm we went to the bar for the rally dinner. There were crews from about 15 boats and the other marina guests were also invited. The food was fabulous – salad, spaghetti bol, chicken, fish, prawns, beef dishes and chicken sates and chips. So much food. It was a lovely night and they all seem to be a pretty good bunch of people so it bodes well for the rally.
Thursday 28 April – Pangkor Island Marina to Pangkor Island
Happy Birthday Sandra
04°12.621 / 100°32.970E
Peter topped up our water and had recharged the batteries and we had packed the washing away and paid the marina fees and quite a few boats had already left. Peter went to help James get Cilantro back into the water and bring her back to tie her up. We had a birthday drink with Sandra and went over to say farewell and thank marina James for his wonderful hospitality. Such a lovely lovely man and we hope he does really well with his marina. The haulout contraption (which he told us was invented by an American farmer) is a work of genious. They also lifted out a catamaran which was around 8.5m wide – quite a feat. Anyway we departed the marina on a high tide at 1.30pm and motored to the south side of Pulau Pangkor where we anchored in 5.5m at 2.50pm. Braveheart was already there as was Ches Noux and Full Flight came in after Cilantro and us. Chris from Braveheart collected us in his dinghy at 5.30 and we all went to Cilantro to have birthday drinks with Sandra and a very nice evening was had by all.
Miles : 7 TTT: 186 NM
Friday 29 April – Pulau Pangkor to Bernham River
03°50.85 / 100°49.605
Well what can one say – what an interesting day!!!!! We departed Pulau Pangkor with Cilantro at 8am. Braveheart left at 7 and texted to say get out of bed they were doing 7 knots! Ches Noux had also disappeared. We watched a little fish desperately jumping out of the water followed closer by a bigger fish jumping out of the water. It was always going to end in tears for the little guy but he put up a brave fight! It was overcast and light rain so I cooked us some breakfast and washed up and when I came up I was surprised to see that there was thunder and lightning everywhere. The wind had been behind us but all of a sudden it went to the front and we were hit with a huge storm – thunder, lightning, big seas, lots of water over the bow. Peter put on his harness and went forward to drop the main sail as it was in danger of being blown out and the rain was horizontal. It was a messy drop of the sail but under the circumstances we were just glad to have it down. The wind was so strong it was blowing spray up off the waves. Peter had trouble holding us into the waves and was only doing 1.6 knots into the wind and the rain so he had to put more revs on. Visibility was restricted to around 25 metres or less so we put all our lights on – running, navigation and masthead. We could see a boat off to the left of us on our AIS on the chartplotter so were able to stay away from him. Apparently it was a yacht which had turned back. Our depth sounder also stopped working for some time in the middle of the storm. We put our jackets on over our swimmers. We were soaked and it was quite chilly and the whole cockpit was soaked. This was the biggest storm we have ever been in. We could see it on the radar and it was huge. The storm lasted one and a half to two hours – seemed like forever and then the wind dropped a bit and the rain eased. There was also a lot of debris in the water, even a whole tree. It was only the eagle eyes of the crew (minus glasses!!!) and the quick action of the skipper which averted us hitting a large wooden pallet in the water!!! We decided to check out the river for the evening anchorage as it would have been very rough anchoring out. The depths were deeper than the chart plotter indicated and we anchored in 5 metres with two other cats which were already there and Cilantro came in after us then Braveheart. Braveheart (not the yacht that passed near us) had to turn back and run with the storm for a while. They had a lightning strike 100m away from them. Chris was hand steering with a metal steering wheel!!! I feel there will be some stories to tell when we all get together again!!!! The river is well used by fishing trawlers so we copped a bit of wash but we were just happy to be in there!!!
Miles: 32 TTT: 218
Fair winds and calm seas!
Dell and Peter
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
WEEK 1 – Sat 16 – Fri 22 April – Kuah to Penang
I am calling this week 1 even though the rally hasn’t started yet, it is our preparation to head south to join the rally. Our time in Kuah was spent in preparing the boat and bringing on supplies.
Sat 16 April – Kuah to Fiords Langkawi
06°11.139N 99°47.204E
When we pulled the anchor up after such a long time it was entirely encrusted with barnacles so it took quite a while to chip and wash those off and then Peter had to cut away some fishing net which had wrapped around the chain. We finally got away around 10am and motored/sailed to Telaga where we took on 350 litres of diesel in the tank and 100 litres in the jerries on the deck. We then motor sailed to the fiords where Cilantro was anchored. We did about 25 miles and didn’t get in till around 5.30 so it turned out to be quite a long day.
Miles 25 Total 12,460
Sun 17 April – Langkawi to Palau Bunting
05°52.321N 100°19.405E
We left at 7.30am and motor sailed with periods of sailing till we arrived at Pulua Bunting at 3.30pm. This is where there is a big fancy causeway which goes across to the island but has never been finished.
Miles 39 Total 12,499
Mon 18 April – Palau Bunting to Penang
05°19.346N 100°18.350
Upanchored at 8am which felt like a very civilised time to leave and motored with flat seas and what little wind there was was on the nose. Went under the big bridge. Had to stand watch at the bow as there was so much rubbish in the water. We came around the island to Jerrejack and could see Helly anchored. We went right down the channel but came back and anchored near the main road and not too far from a shopping centre.
Miles 39 Total 12,538
Tuesday 19 April – Penang
Sandra and James collected us in their dinghy and we went to town on the bus. We were chasing some prop speed but Pen Marine didn’t have any. We went to the marina and saw Braveheart. The marina has lost a few berths since we were last there and some boats are sitting in mud. Not the best place to be. We walked around looking for some addresses Sandra had but didn’t really find any. Found the hardware store and our little bar. As we were walking past a little shop I saw out of the corner of my eye a man making a chair out of rattan. Peter went back to see and as he was taking some time we went to our little bar to wait. He came back with 6 metres of the rattan we have been looking everywhere for to make our cupboards. We were very pleased with ourselves! Went to James and Sandra’s little bar on the water and then went to the Red Lantern food hall for dinner. They had music with a couple singing and we were entertained watching people dance and an old man miming all the songs. As it was late we caught a taxi back to the boats only to discover that the tide was way out – springs!!! – and the beach was an incredible bog of mud! We waited half an hour and pulled the dinghy along the beach to where there was some hard sand and finally were able to get back to the boats!
Wednesday 20 April – Penang
Went to town again by bus and found the shop James had been looking for. We had actually passed it the day before. We ordered some prop speed which should be in on Saturday. We bought some toy walkie talkies to see if we could communicate with each other from the bow of the boat to the cockpit. We made sure we were back in plenty of time to catch the tide.
Thursday 21 April – Penang
Peter took James and Sandra in early in their dinghy and dropped them at the jetty and brought their dinghy to our boat. We had a boat day while James went to the Adventist hospital to see about his very painful shoulder. He saw a specialist three times through the course of the day, had an x-ray and MRI and received medication and four cortisone injections all for the princely sum of $420. Where else could one see a specialist without a wait of weeks!! Peter collected James and Sandra from the shore just in time for sundowners. It was a long day for them. Kristy 1 anchored near us.
Friday 22 April – Penang
Happy Easter all
Went ashore in the afternoon to the supermarket and got a few things. Sundowners on Cilantro.
As I type this I am sitting high in the air on our boat on the hard at Lumut. It is very hot. Tomorrow night is the rally dinner. More of that later. Meanwhile hope you have all had a happy Easter and lovely holiday.
Take care
May you always have a foot of water under your keel.
Dell and Peter
Sat 16 April – Kuah to Fiords Langkawi
06°11.139N 99°47.204E
When we pulled the anchor up after such a long time it was entirely encrusted with barnacles so it took quite a while to chip and wash those off and then Peter had to cut away some fishing net which had wrapped around the chain. We finally got away around 10am and motored/sailed to Telaga where we took on 350 litres of diesel in the tank and 100 litres in the jerries on the deck. We then motor sailed to the fiords where Cilantro was anchored. We did about 25 miles and didn’t get in till around 5.30 so it turned out to be quite a long day.
Miles 25 Total 12,460
Sun 17 April – Langkawi to Palau Bunting
05°52.321N 100°19.405E
We left at 7.30am and motor sailed with periods of sailing till we arrived at Pulua Bunting at 3.30pm. This is where there is a big fancy causeway which goes across to the island but has never been finished.
Miles 39 Total 12,499
Mon 18 April – Palau Bunting to Penang
05°19.346N 100°18.350
Upanchored at 8am which felt like a very civilised time to leave and motored with flat seas and what little wind there was was on the nose. Went under the big bridge. Had to stand watch at the bow as there was so much rubbish in the water. We came around the island to Jerrejack and could see Helly anchored. We went right down the channel but came back and anchored near the main road and not too far from a shopping centre.
Miles 39 Total 12,538
Tuesday 19 April – Penang
Sandra and James collected us in their dinghy and we went to town on the bus. We were chasing some prop speed but Pen Marine didn’t have any. We went to the marina and saw Braveheart. The marina has lost a few berths since we were last there and some boats are sitting in mud. Not the best place to be. We walked around looking for some addresses Sandra had but didn’t really find any. Found the hardware store and our little bar. As we were walking past a little shop I saw out of the corner of my eye a man making a chair out of rattan. Peter went back to see and as he was taking some time we went to our little bar to wait. He came back with 6 metres of the rattan we have been looking everywhere for to make our cupboards. We were very pleased with ourselves! Went to James and Sandra’s little bar on the water and then went to the Red Lantern food hall for dinner. They had music with a couple singing and we were entertained watching people dance and an old man miming all the songs. As it was late we caught a taxi back to the boats only to discover that the tide was way out – springs!!! – and the beach was an incredible bog of mud! We waited half an hour and pulled the dinghy along the beach to where there was some hard sand and finally were able to get back to the boats!
Wednesday 20 April – Penang
Went to town again by bus and found the shop James had been looking for. We had actually passed it the day before. We ordered some prop speed which should be in on Saturday. We bought some toy walkie talkies to see if we could communicate with each other from the bow of the boat to the cockpit. We made sure we were back in plenty of time to catch the tide.
Thursday 21 April – Penang
Peter took James and Sandra in early in their dinghy and dropped them at the jetty and brought their dinghy to our boat. We had a boat day while James went to the Adventist hospital to see about his very painful shoulder. He saw a specialist three times through the course of the day, had an x-ray and MRI and received medication and four cortisone injections all for the princely sum of $420. Where else could one see a specialist without a wait of weeks!! Peter collected James and Sandra from the shore just in time for sundowners. It was a long day for them. Kristy 1 anchored near us.
Friday 22 April – Penang
Happy Easter all
Went ashore in the afternoon to the supermarket and got a few things. Sundowners on Cilantro.
As I type this I am sitting high in the air on our boat on the hard at Lumut. It is very hot. Tomorrow night is the rally dinner. More of that later. Meanwhile hope you have all had a happy Easter and lovely holiday.
Take care
May you always have a foot of water under your keel.
Dell and Peter
Friday, March 25, 2011
Another week gone
A week spent in laying on stores and supplies, rainy weather, and dealing with bureaucracy with respect to pool fencing regs - so over the top its not funny and once again they have failed us despite upsetting our neighbours and doing everything asked of us. They are trying to keep spiderman out not 2 - 4 year olds!!! Anyway believe all the wonderful vines on our 2 metre high front wall are gone including the bouganvillea (yes I know thorns!!!) and the pool looks so aesthetically bad!!! Sooooooo stressful. And our new tenants have opted out!
Hope your week has been better than ours.
Cheers
Dell and Peter
Hope your week has been better than ours.
Cheers
Dell and Peter
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Sat 12 to Fri 18 March - Koh Rok Nok to Kuah Malaysia
Saturday 12 March –Koh Rok Nok to Koh Lipe Butangs
We left at 7am with a grey sky, grey sea and drizzling rain. Suffice to say that it was a day Peter enjoyed with much heeling of the boat and much wind – both of which I hate! Peter thought later that he really should have had a reef in the main but we hit 10 knots at one stage! Not a comfortable trip at all. Even when we came into the channel at the Butangs it was still howling and the beach where we thought would be good was untenable. The water was too rough to be able to look for rocks and reef so stayed away from the sheltered island. Went around to the beach at Koh Lipe which was lovely and beautifully calm. We just got pipped at the post by a ferry for the only buoy. The bay is full of boats, buoys and a floating platform and drops to 25-30 metres out the back. We tried anchoring but it was over coral and we waited for the ferry to go but he wasn’t in a hurry. Tried another red buoy but went down from 14m to 4.9m over reef before we even go to it so made a hasty retreat!! It was getting late so headed round Koh Lipe to another very windy channel where a lot of yachts were anchored and anchored out the back in 18 metres. Then the ferry came round and anchored in the channel!! We watched a few episodes of MASH and went to bed. A beach bar was playing beat box music and we reckon you would have heard it in Langkawi!! We closed our hatches and put in ear plugs but we could still hear it!! We eventually were able to open our hatch at 4am!!
Sun 13 March – Koh Lipe, Butangs
Still a bit windy but need a rest day and Peter is into a good book called The Historian by Elisabeth Kostova. We went ashore around lunch time and headed down the street to the beach on the other side of the island. Then walked back and had a delicious lunch. We came back to the dinghy and went to a bar on the beach and started talking to an English couple who run a guest house in Lyme Regis in England. They work nine months of the year and have January to March travelling round the world – sounds like a good lifestyle. Spent a couple of hours swapping yarns and travel stories and they commented on the loud music (and they were way over the other side of the island) then went back to the boat and watched the Prince of Persia and had home made pizzas.
Mon 14 March – Koh Lipe, Butangs
Were going to head for Langkawi but decided to spend another day catching up on computer work and Peter has a book to finish. In the middle of the night we had a huge storm come through.
Tues 15 March – Koh Lipe, Butangs
Upanchored at 8am and headed round the point but the wind and the tide were so strong we were only doing 1.3 knots and in danger of going backwards!!! Ramped up the revs and kept going thinking once we got past the island it would be ok. Two other yachts came out but they turned back and then we turned back too – conditions were just too bad. Anchored a bit further up in the channel in 17 metres and in the afternoon the wind dropped off so we had a snorkel and swam to shore. The reef is not very interesting and there are only small fish. Had a late lunch/early dinner on shore and returned to the boat for sundowners then watched Zulu again. The ferry had anchored next to us and we thought at the time he was a little close. When we came up after the movie they were fishing and catching tiddlers and keeping them and we didn’t really like how close they were. So once again we had to move in the dark through no fault of our own!!! We went within ten feet of them getting our anchor up and went back to our original position in 18 metres in the dark. Fifteen minutes later all the boats turned and he would have been over our anchor and touching us!
Wed 16 March – Koh Lipe, Butangs Thailand to Kuah, Langkawi Malaysia
We left at daybreak. It was still a bit windy and weren’t sure it would be good but we rounded the point doing in excess of 5 knots so that was a good sign. It was a bit rough and the wind was on the nose but off we went and the closer we got to Langkawi the flatter the seas and we got a bit of wind in our headsail and made really good time. We were heading for the beaches but decided to go for Kuah. Langkawi has never looked better. The island is so green, the water a lovely green and the sun is shining – just gorgeous and this is our home away from home! We anchored around 3pm and headed to Kuah town to buy some much needed wine!! (been out for a couple of weeks). Came back to the boat to drop off supplies and went to The Asian Restaurant for dinner. We both had the chicken with mango salad and shared a sambal fried rice plus one beer and one water and it came to less than $10 – magic.
Thurs 17 March – Kuah, Langkawi
Had a lazy start to the day then walked through the lovely park to check in – Immigration, Harbour Master and Customs. Sorted out our phones and internet, had lunch – Peter was thrilled with his lamb curry, then went to the supermarket and dvd shop. Unfortunately the hairdresser was closed. Took the supplies back to the boat, went to the post office then walked the back way to Kuah town. Found some great fruit and vege stores – think they must be new. Couldnt be bothered walking all the way down to the restaurants so came back and as we were walking past one of the Muslim restaurants just near the jetty we smelt chilli – quite overpowering really so we went to investigate and found out what it was so ordered it too. We got a fried rice with the fried egg on top, beef and vegetables in a kind of sweet and sour sauce and a small bowl of soup all on the same plate. Ours wasn’t quite as spicy but it was delicious – 6 Ringetts each – thats $2 each!!!! Plus orange and pineapple juice and it was $5.30 for the both of us – unbelievable! Came back to the boat and watched a movie.
Fri 18 March – Kuah, Langkawi
Boat day – tried to move stuff around but we also have to balance the boat and not put all the heavy stuff on one side so a bit of a balancing act. We could see rain coming so Peter put the water catcher up (which usually stops the rain!) and caught 210 litres of water so the tank and jerries are pretty full again and I have been told I am allowed to waste water now!!! Peter got in Bob to bail him out as he was pretty full too and had a bath before he bailed – I wish I had thought of that!!!!
We would like to congratulate Debbie and Phil on both doing so well in their triathalons – really well done guys!!!!
May you always have a foot of water under your keel
Cheers
Dell and Peter
We left at 7am with a grey sky, grey sea and drizzling rain. Suffice to say that it was a day Peter enjoyed with much heeling of the boat and much wind – both of which I hate! Peter thought later that he really should have had a reef in the main but we hit 10 knots at one stage! Not a comfortable trip at all. Even when we came into the channel at the Butangs it was still howling and the beach where we thought would be good was untenable. The water was too rough to be able to look for rocks and reef so stayed away from the sheltered island. Went around to the beach at Koh Lipe which was lovely and beautifully calm. We just got pipped at the post by a ferry for the only buoy. The bay is full of boats, buoys and a floating platform and drops to 25-30 metres out the back. We tried anchoring but it was over coral and we waited for the ferry to go but he wasn’t in a hurry. Tried another red buoy but went down from 14m to 4.9m over reef before we even go to it so made a hasty retreat!! It was getting late so headed round Koh Lipe to another very windy channel where a lot of yachts were anchored and anchored out the back in 18 metres. Then the ferry came round and anchored in the channel!! We watched a few episodes of MASH and went to bed. A beach bar was playing beat box music and we reckon you would have heard it in Langkawi!! We closed our hatches and put in ear plugs but we could still hear it!! We eventually were able to open our hatch at 4am!!
Sun 13 March – Koh Lipe, Butangs
Still a bit windy but need a rest day and Peter is into a good book called The Historian by Elisabeth Kostova. We went ashore around lunch time and headed down the street to the beach on the other side of the island. Then walked back and had a delicious lunch. We came back to the dinghy and went to a bar on the beach and started talking to an English couple who run a guest house in Lyme Regis in England. They work nine months of the year and have January to March travelling round the world – sounds like a good lifestyle. Spent a couple of hours swapping yarns and travel stories and they commented on the loud music (and they were way over the other side of the island) then went back to the boat and watched the Prince of Persia and had home made pizzas.
Mon 14 March – Koh Lipe, Butangs
Were going to head for Langkawi but decided to spend another day catching up on computer work and Peter has a book to finish. In the middle of the night we had a huge storm come through.
Tues 15 March – Koh Lipe, Butangs
Upanchored at 8am and headed round the point but the wind and the tide were so strong we were only doing 1.3 knots and in danger of going backwards!!! Ramped up the revs and kept going thinking once we got past the island it would be ok. Two other yachts came out but they turned back and then we turned back too – conditions were just too bad. Anchored a bit further up in the channel in 17 metres and in the afternoon the wind dropped off so we had a snorkel and swam to shore. The reef is not very interesting and there are only small fish. Had a late lunch/early dinner on shore and returned to the boat for sundowners then watched Zulu again. The ferry had anchored next to us and we thought at the time he was a little close. When we came up after the movie they were fishing and catching tiddlers and keeping them and we didn’t really like how close they were. So once again we had to move in the dark through no fault of our own!!! We went within ten feet of them getting our anchor up and went back to our original position in 18 metres in the dark. Fifteen minutes later all the boats turned and he would have been over our anchor and touching us!
Wed 16 March – Koh Lipe, Butangs Thailand to Kuah, Langkawi Malaysia
We left at daybreak. It was still a bit windy and weren’t sure it would be good but we rounded the point doing in excess of 5 knots so that was a good sign. It was a bit rough and the wind was on the nose but off we went and the closer we got to Langkawi the flatter the seas and we got a bit of wind in our headsail and made really good time. We were heading for the beaches but decided to go for Kuah. Langkawi has never looked better. The island is so green, the water a lovely green and the sun is shining – just gorgeous and this is our home away from home! We anchored around 3pm and headed to Kuah town to buy some much needed wine!! (been out for a couple of weeks). Came back to the boat to drop off supplies and went to The Asian Restaurant for dinner. We both had the chicken with mango salad and shared a sambal fried rice plus one beer and one water and it came to less than $10 – magic.
Thurs 17 March – Kuah, Langkawi
Had a lazy start to the day then walked through the lovely park to check in – Immigration, Harbour Master and Customs. Sorted out our phones and internet, had lunch – Peter was thrilled with his lamb curry, then went to the supermarket and dvd shop. Unfortunately the hairdresser was closed. Took the supplies back to the boat, went to the post office then walked the back way to Kuah town. Found some great fruit and vege stores – think they must be new. Couldnt be bothered walking all the way down to the restaurants so came back and as we were walking past one of the Muslim restaurants just near the jetty we smelt chilli – quite overpowering really so we went to investigate and found out what it was so ordered it too. We got a fried rice with the fried egg on top, beef and vegetables in a kind of sweet and sour sauce and a small bowl of soup all on the same plate. Ours wasn’t quite as spicy but it was delicious – 6 Ringetts each – thats $2 each!!!! Plus orange and pineapple juice and it was $5.30 for the both of us – unbelievable! Came back to the boat and watched a movie.
Fri 18 March – Kuah, Langkawi
Boat day – tried to move stuff around but we also have to balance the boat and not put all the heavy stuff on one side so a bit of a balancing act. We could see rain coming so Peter put the water catcher up (which usually stops the rain!) and caught 210 litres of water so the tank and jerries are pretty full again and I have been told I am allowed to waste water now!!! Peter got in Bob to bail him out as he was pretty full too and had a bath before he bailed – I wish I had thought of that!!!!
We would like to congratulate Debbie and Phil on both doing so well in their triathalons – really well done guys!!!!
May you always have a foot of water under your keel
Cheers
Dell and Peter
Monday, March 14, 2011
Sat 5 to Fri 11 March Ao Chalong to Koh Roc Nok
Saturday 5 March –Ao Chalong
We went ashore meaning to catch a bus to Phuket town but decided to hire a motorbike instead. We were looking for the weekend market and also somewhere to buy rattan. We went right through Phuket town and didn’t find the market so went on up to Supercheap for a last shop. Asked directions to the market but it didn’t start til 5pm. We took a shortcut through the park and found the markets then went to Big C Supermarket to fill some time and just as we pulled up who else should pull up but Braveheart! So we went for a fruitjuice and caught up on all the news. Then some shopping and back to the markets. Not all the stalls were open as it was still a little early so we walked through the whole thing. By 5pm it was getting pretty crowded so we were pleased to have gone early. Headed back to the boat and stopped at the Anchor Inn for one of their fabulous salads!
Sunday 6 March – Ao Chalong
Were going to get up early and shoot up to Big C and have the bike back by 11am but we had a bit of a late start so hired the bike for another day. Went chasing down a rattan place but it didn’t seem to exist. We had pulled over in a little town to consult the map and were watching a black ute in front of us putting caged birds in the back. We had to wait for traffic and luckily hadn’t pulled out when the black ute gunned it and took off. We think he must have thought he would scream his tyres and take off - didn’t work though and a minibus was unable to avoid him and they came together – huge scrape down the side of the minibus. We cautiously passed them and back to Big C where we bought a lot of pork to put in our freezer. They have big slabs of pork and you use tongs to pick out what you want. So our freezer is stocked up. It is difficult to find pork in Malaysia being a Muslim country. After we dealt with the meat we went back ashore and went to a couple of places we had seen which looked interesting. By the time we got back the sky looked a bit threatening so we got takeaway salad to take to the boat for dinner. It is spring tides again and the tide was way out so it was really muddy. But being the innovative things that we are we pulled ourselves along the side of a tourist boat which was tied to the shore until we could reach his line which went about 30 metres out and pulled ourselves out by that – worked really well!
Monday 7 March – Ao Chalong
We took the bike back and then went to Immigration/Customs/Harbour master to check out of Thailand. There was quite a crowd in there so it took about an hour. Good to chat to yachties you don’t know as you find out snippets of information to be tucked away. We went and did some last minute shopping and used all our coin up buying cooked chicken pieces off a roadside stall. The lady was lovely and very happy to take all the coin. We bought some fruit from a roadside stall then went to the Anchor Inn for – you guessed it – the fabulous takeaway salad. Got back to Bob about 4pm and the tide was way low so pulled ourselves out along the tourist boat rope again. Had an early dinner watching the sun go down – couldn’t actually see it as it was cloudy. Watched a dvd –Inception – which we didn’t enjoy – very strange. There are now quite a few boats around us way out here. Suspect it may have got a bit shallow for some of them further in and in fact we could see a yacht on its side – obviously ran out of water. We could smell diesel all around us – not a nice feeling but the diesel barge must have spilt a bit when he fuelled the boat in front of us.
Tuesday 8 March – Ao Chalong to Phi Phi Don
We could smell the diesel again this morning and you could actually see it on thew ater but the tide eventually took it away. We noticed that the yacht which had been on its side was gone. We upanchored at 9am and headed out of Ao Chalong for the last time. Had a lovely lunch of chicken purchased yesterday and of course the wind was on the nose so it was a motor day. It was so clear you could actually see the Phi Phi’s from our anchorage in Ao Chalong. An uneventful trip arriving at Phi Phi Don at 2.45. We went in half way up the island to check out an opening which we had seen when Brett was on board. There were two hong like openings but nothing we would like to take our boat into. As we were coming around the point to Phi Phi Don a large tourist boat passed us and he was putting out a wake at least 500metres behind him. When it hit us the waves were 1.5m high – amazing and exceedingly dangerous!!! We anchored quite a way out and could only see one other yacht further in. It was threatening rain so we stayed on board. A big storm came through but passed just north of us though we did get quite a bit of rain.
Wednesday 9 March – Ao Chalong to Ko Roc Nok
07°13’021N 099°03.606E
We awoke to lots of rocking and rolling. The swell was coming from the wrong direction. We left at 7.10 and counted 10 other yachts in. Thats the beauty of taking your house with you – you can do your housework on the way. We sailed for a few hours with a SE swell and then motored arriving at 2.30. Just as we were approaching the islands we thought we saw a fish trap but it turned out to be the fins of a pod of dolphins. Five of them swam under the nose of the boat but only briefly and then they broke away. Was wonderful to see such a large pod. We came in between the two islands and anchored on the opposite side to where we had been last time. We could see a huge weather front coming in and were pleased to be anchored out of the way. The rangers came to collect their 200 baht per person but we only had a 500 baht note and 290 bht in change. They didn’t have any change so decided to only charge us 100 baht each!! We had quite a bit of rain and the storm was all around us and just seemed to miss us. We could see a wall of water (rain) to the north. A couple of cats came in and took up buoys and a French boat came in and anchored in front of us.
Thursday 10 March – Koh Roc Nok
It was very windy through the night and very windy all day – comfortable though. A few tour boats came in at 10. We stayed on board. Peter cleaned some stainless and caught a couple of fish which kept him happy and Dell made us a 2011 calendar – finally.
Friday 11 March – Koh Roc Nok
Well wind against tide did not a comfortable night make! We bucked up and down and at times went side on and rolled. There were white caps further in front of us and when we got up all the other boats had left!! The wind kept blowing but at 12 we got in Bob and headed up towards the beach but the swell was so bad we turned back and investigated the side of both islands out of the wind. The coral didn’t look great so we didn’t bother snorkelling and came back to the boat. Saw a large puffer fish – red with white spots very pretty – who was in a spot of bother splashing around on the surface and all puffed up. Dont know if he puffed himself up too much or he got hit by a boat. Anyway there was nothing we could do for him so left him to sort himself out. Around 3pm it was a completely different story. The wind dropped off, the swell dropped and we were able to go to the beach and have a swim. This is a beach with the shining white sand and beautiful aqua clear water. We had a swim and then sat in Bob and gently floated along the shore line towards our boat. Until Peter realised he was getting bitten by sandflies (they love him!) so we started the motor and went down a bit further then jumped over for a snorkel. The coral wasn’t much and it was pretty murky. We went down aways but visibility wasn’t good and we started to get a bad feeling so we came back to the boat. Seemed we were in the current line and all sorts of nasties were floating past and then we saw something interesting so hooked it. After we managed to get all the crabs off it, who were reluctant to go, we found it was an industrial strength sling used with forklifts. Might come in handy sometime so we have kept it! Tonight four more boats have come in. Three are out the back with us (much calmer) and a big timber ketch is behind us. The boats further forward of us last night must have had a really bad time. So far tonight the weather is looking good!!
It seems we will have to haul out again before we head south. We usually cover our prop with prop speed but this time decided to use copper coating which is supposed to be very good. We had it professionally done but we are not sure if it wasn’t applied properly or it just is no good. It is supposed to last ten years but really it hasn’t lasted ten weeks and the prop already has barnacles. Anyway we don’t recommend it.
For those of you who know Ann and Bill, they are finally on the move and can be found at http://www.sailblogs.com/member/seareverie
Hope you are all well
Much Love
Dell and Peter
We went ashore meaning to catch a bus to Phuket town but decided to hire a motorbike instead. We were looking for the weekend market and also somewhere to buy rattan. We went right through Phuket town and didn’t find the market so went on up to Supercheap for a last shop. Asked directions to the market but it didn’t start til 5pm. We took a shortcut through the park and found the markets then went to Big C Supermarket to fill some time and just as we pulled up who else should pull up but Braveheart! So we went for a fruitjuice and caught up on all the news. Then some shopping and back to the markets. Not all the stalls were open as it was still a little early so we walked through the whole thing. By 5pm it was getting pretty crowded so we were pleased to have gone early. Headed back to the boat and stopped at the Anchor Inn for one of their fabulous salads!
Sunday 6 March – Ao Chalong
Were going to get up early and shoot up to Big C and have the bike back by 11am but we had a bit of a late start so hired the bike for another day. Went chasing down a rattan place but it didn’t seem to exist. We had pulled over in a little town to consult the map and were watching a black ute in front of us putting caged birds in the back. We had to wait for traffic and luckily hadn’t pulled out when the black ute gunned it and took off. We think he must have thought he would scream his tyres and take off - didn’t work though and a minibus was unable to avoid him and they came together – huge scrape down the side of the minibus. We cautiously passed them and back to Big C where we bought a lot of pork to put in our freezer. They have big slabs of pork and you use tongs to pick out what you want. So our freezer is stocked up. It is difficult to find pork in Malaysia being a Muslim country. After we dealt with the meat we went back ashore and went to a couple of places we had seen which looked interesting. By the time we got back the sky looked a bit threatening so we got takeaway salad to take to the boat for dinner. It is spring tides again and the tide was way out so it was really muddy. But being the innovative things that we are we pulled ourselves along the side of a tourist boat which was tied to the shore until we could reach his line which went about 30 metres out and pulled ourselves out by that – worked really well!
Monday 7 March – Ao Chalong
We took the bike back and then went to Immigration/Customs/Harbour master to check out of Thailand. There was quite a crowd in there so it took about an hour. Good to chat to yachties you don’t know as you find out snippets of information to be tucked away. We went and did some last minute shopping and used all our coin up buying cooked chicken pieces off a roadside stall. The lady was lovely and very happy to take all the coin. We bought some fruit from a roadside stall then went to the Anchor Inn for – you guessed it – the fabulous takeaway salad. Got back to Bob about 4pm and the tide was way low so pulled ourselves out along the tourist boat rope again. Had an early dinner watching the sun go down – couldn’t actually see it as it was cloudy. Watched a dvd –Inception – which we didn’t enjoy – very strange. There are now quite a few boats around us way out here. Suspect it may have got a bit shallow for some of them further in and in fact we could see a yacht on its side – obviously ran out of water. We could smell diesel all around us – not a nice feeling but the diesel barge must have spilt a bit when he fuelled the boat in front of us.
Tuesday 8 March – Ao Chalong to Phi Phi Don
We could smell the diesel again this morning and you could actually see it on thew ater but the tide eventually took it away. We noticed that the yacht which had been on its side was gone. We upanchored at 9am and headed out of Ao Chalong for the last time. Had a lovely lunch of chicken purchased yesterday and of course the wind was on the nose so it was a motor day. It was so clear you could actually see the Phi Phi’s from our anchorage in Ao Chalong. An uneventful trip arriving at Phi Phi Don at 2.45. We went in half way up the island to check out an opening which we had seen when Brett was on board. There were two hong like openings but nothing we would like to take our boat into. As we were coming around the point to Phi Phi Don a large tourist boat passed us and he was putting out a wake at least 500metres behind him. When it hit us the waves were 1.5m high – amazing and exceedingly dangerous!!! We anchored quite a way out and could only see one other yacht further in. It was threatening rain so we stayed on board. A big storm came through but passed just north of us though we did get quite a bit of rain.
Wednesday 9 March – Ao Chalong to Ko Roc Nok
07°13’021N 099°03.606E
We awoke to lots of rocking and rolling. The swell was coming from the wrong direction. We left at 7.10 and counted 10 other yachts in. Thats the beauty of taking your house with you – you can do your housework on the way. We sailed for a few hours with a SE swell and then motored arriving at 2.30. Just as we were approaching the islands we thought we saw a fish trap but it turned out to be the fins of a pod of dolphins. Five of them swam under the nose of the boat but only briefly and then they broke away. Was wonderful to see such a large pod. We came in between the two islands and anchored on the opposite side to where we had been last time. We could see a huge weather front coming in and were pleased to be anchored out of the way. The rangers came to collect their 200 baht per person but we only had a 500 baht note and 290 bht in change. They didn’t have any change so decided to only charge us 100 baht each!! We had quite a bit of rain and the storm was all around us and just seemed to miss us. We could see a wall of water (rain) to the north. A couple of cats came in and took up buoys and a French boat came in and anchored in front of us.
Thursday 10 March – Koh Roc Nok
It was very windy through the night and very windy all day – comfortable though. A few tour boats came in at 10. We stayed on board. Peter cleaned some stainless and caught a couple of fish which kept him happy and Dell made us a 2011 calendar – finally.
Friday 11 March – Koh Roc Nok
Well wind against tide did not a comfortable night make! We bucked up and down and at times went side on and rolled. There were white caps further in front of us and when we got up all the other boats had left!! The wind kept blowing but at 12 we got in Bob and headed up towards the beach but the swell was so bad we turned back and investigated the side of both islands out of the wind. The coral didn’t look great so we didn’t bother snorkelling and came back to the boat. Saw a large puffer fish – red with white spots very pretty – who was in a spot of bother splashing around on the surface and all puffed up. Dont know if he puffed himself up too much or he got hit by a boat. Anyway there was nothing we could do for him so left him to sort himself out. Around 3pm it was a completely different story. The wind dropped off, the swell dropped and we were able to go to the beach and have a swim. This is a beach with the shining white sand and beautiful aqua clear water. We had a swim and then sat in Bob and gently floated along the shore line towards our boat. Until Peter realised he was getting bitten by sandflies (they love him!) so we started the motor and went down a bit further then jumped over for a snorkel. The coral wasn’t much and it was pretty murky. We went down aways but visibility wasn’t good and we started to get a bad feeling so we came back to the boat. Seemed we were in the current line and all sorts of nasties were floating past and then we saw something interesting so hooked it. After we managed to get all the crabs off it, who were reluctant to go, we found it was an industrial strength sling used with forklifts. Might come in handy sometime so we have kept it! Tonight four more boats have come in. Three are out the back with us (much calmer) and a big timber ketch is behind us. The boats further forward of us last night must have had a really bad time. So far tonight the weather is looking good!!
It seems we will have to haul out again before we head south. We usually cover our prop with prop speed but this time decided to use copper coating which is supposed to be very good. We had it professionally done but we are not sure if it wasn’t applied properly or it just is no good. It is supposed to last ten years but really it hasn’t lasted ten weeks and the prop already has barnacles. Anyway we don’t recommend it.
For those of you who know Ann and Bill, they are finally on the move and can be found at http://www.sailblogs.com/member/seareverie
Hope you are all well
Much Love
Dell and Peter
Monday, March 7, 2011
Sat 26 to Fri 4 March - Khao Lak to Ao Chalong
Saturday 26 Feb –Khao Lak
Had a relaxing day and later in the afternoon we saw an elephant walking along the beach. Went ashore to meet with Axel and Elisabeth. We were very grateful for the floating plastic jetty as otherwise we would not have been able to get ashore. We went to the resort to keep a lookout for them and asked the waiter how much a beer was. He didn’t know but said it is happy hour sit down sir (to Dell) so we did and paid the same as normal rates elsewhere – but they did give us lovely glasses to drink out of!
We met Axel and Elisabeth and went to a beachside restaurant for dinner. It was lovely to see them again and it didn’t feel like 27 years since we last met but looking at the photos of us all which Axel kindly bought along you could see that it might have been a few years!! We had a really lovely evening and we are hoping that our respective children will make contact. So good to see them. Once again on the way out we were grateful for the floating jetty!
Sunday 27 Feb – Khao Lak to Nai Harn
We left at 6.45am, motored for an hour then had a great sail for five hours. The boat was tipping which Dell hates but we were going so well we passed both destinations we had decided on and went straight through to Nai Harn. As we were passing Patong we noticed thousands of jellyfish in the water – thousands – they are bigger than a large round dinner plate and kind of like a cotton reel going in at the middle with a dinner plate on the other side and they are white, pink, some have a purple stripe and all colours between white and pink. Quite pretty really. We took Bob ashore – with terror on Dell’s part and just as we got out a wave hit and soaked Dell’s backside! Anyway had a lovely dinner at one of the little restaurants and came back to the boat without incident.
Monday 28 Feb – Nai Harn
Had a boat day – tidying and cleaning and went ashore at 4pm – made it in without incident. We found out someone had got rolled the day before (it had been his third trip in). We both had a massage which was very nice then had an early dinner and made it back without incident. Watched the final extended version of The Lord of the Rings so it was rather late when we went to bed and the wind had really come up.
Tuesday 1 March – Nai Harn
Just catching up on some work and relaxing. Still windy and so many plastic bags and a couple of fish traps have been floating past us. We have never seen so much rubbish in the bay. Have decided not to go ashore tonight – would probably get wet! So will eat on board. We could see a big storm to the east with all the silent lightning but then the wind came up and all of a sudden we had thunder, lightning and torrential rain. We had gone to bed but got up when we heard over the radio – all boats in Nai Harn – there is a cat on the loose. We went up to check and sure enough – a huge tri-catamaran had dragged all the way out and there it was just on our starboard side very close. A couple in a dinghy came out and asked us if it was still moving and we said yes so they boarded the boat. By now it had stopped dragging and it was dangerously close to us and it became clear that the people were not going to move it so we had to upanchor in the storm and go further out the back to re-anchor. There were unlit and badly lit boats around and the only way you can see them is when the lightning flashed. You could say it was a little bit stressful!!! Nai Harn has not been kind to us the year.
Wednesday 2 March – Nai Harn to Ao Chalong
The sea was a bit rolly so we upanchored and went around the point to the other side of Phuket Island. Ao Chalong is full of boats – big and small and also full of buoys so it is always a problem anchoring. We found a spot between three boats on buoys and a huge big wooden boat also on a buoy but his buoy has a big long rope and then he has a big long rope from the buoy to the boat so his swing room is enormous. We went ashore at 4pm and went to the Villa Market and bought some vegemite (and licorice)!! Then had dinner – the most magnificent huge salad – the meals at the Anchor Inn are enormous. Then Peter went to the dentist and Dell stayed to chat a while with Bach & Byte who had joined us. It was well after 8 when we started back to the boat and we could see the lightning and the dark sky. Got back to the boat about half an hour before the storm hit – timing!! We were sitting behind the huge big wooden boat and could see their TV so they were reasonably close!
Thursday 3 March – Ao Chalong
This morning we saw the most amazing thing – Peter said is that a hang glider with a boat on it. And sure enough it was a hang glider with an engine with a dinghy attached to the bottom and a person sitting in it. He bought it in to land on the water then motored to the boat ramp and drove up it – must have had some sort of wheels as well. A little later he took off and flew over us heading to another island!!! Amazing. Another thing we saw in a shop were kayaks with motors (water jet engines – no prop) in the back – Stu & Jean!!!! Good for when you get tired of paddling. Checked the weather for the day and decided to move as we were a little uneasy about the huge big boat thinking if a big blow came it would be possible for his long ropes to stretch and if we were behind him it might be a bit too close for comfort so we moved further out. Made the long trek to shore - about 1 ½ k and went to the paint store and found some paint which will do the interior of our boat and then wandered through the Home Store with all sorts of interesting things for the house. Then went back to the Anchor Inn for dinner and another one of those huge salads. It was almost dark when we headed back and dark by the time we got to the boat. It was a lovely still night with the sea like glass and we sat and watched the lights on the shore – very peaceful.
Friday 4 March – Ao Chalong
Caught the bus to Phuket town and walked around looking in all the lovely shops and went to the Dibuk Restaurant and Peter had the squid stuffed with pork which Brett had last time - it had gone up 20bht but was just as delicious. We were supposed to take a photo of it but the camera wasn’t working! Dell had the spicy pork which was also delicious. We were going to take the bus back but a tuk tuk driver offered to take us back for 100 bht (against 60 bht) so we said ok but as soon as he had us in the tuk tuk it was ‘I will take you to three stores you don’t have to buy anything but I will get free petrol for taking you there’! We weren’t at all keen as we had been caught with this in Bangkok, however, as it turned out the three stores were fantastic and we spent quite some time in them and yes we did purchase something. But it didn’t keep the tuk tuk man happy as we needed to spend 500 Bht for him to get a free t-shirt – our purchase didn’t come to that!! We went to the Anchor Inn and had another wonderful salad.
We are preparing to head south again as our Thai visas are up on the 8th. We may have to have another look at the East Malaysia rally as it has a 500 nm section crossing from Malaysia mainland to Borneo – thats a very long way. Meanwhile huge hugs for Jessie, Charlie and Rosie – miss you all terribly. And a big hullo to Aunti Lottie in Germany!
Calm Seas and Fair Winds
Dell and Peter
Had a relaxing day and later in the afternoon we saw an elephant walking along the beach. Went ashore to meet with Axel and Elisabeth. We were very grateful for the floating plastic jetty as otherwise we would not have been able to get ashore. We went to the resort to keep a lookout for them and asked the waiter how much a beer was. He didn’t know but said it is happy hour sit down sir (to Dell) so we did and paid the same as normal rates elsewhere – but they did give us lovely glasses to drink out of!
 |
| From 4 Feb 2011 |
Sunday 27 Feb – Khao Lak to Nai Harn
We left at 6.45am, motored for an hour then had a great sail for five hours. The boat was tipping which Dell hates but we were going so well we passed both destinations we had decided on and went straight through to Nai Harn. As we were passing Patong we noticed thousands of jellyfish in the water – thousands – they are bigger than a large round dinner plate and kind of like a cotton reel going in at the middle with a dinner plate on the other side and they are white, pink, some have a purple stripe and all colours between white and pink. Quite pretty really. We took Bob ashore – with terror on Dell’s part and just as we got out a wave hit and soaked Dell’s backside! Anyway had a lovely dinner at one of the little restaurants and came back to the boat without incident.
Monday 28 Feb – Nai Harn
Had a boat day – tidying and cleaning and went ashore at 4pm – made it in without incident. We found out someone had got rolled the day before (it had been his third trip in). We both had a massage which was very nice then had an early dinner and made it back without incident. Watched the final extended version of The Lord of the Rings so it was rather late when we went to bed and the wind had really come up.
Tuesday 1 March – Nai Harn
Just catching up on some work and relaxing. Still windy and so many plastic bags and a couple of fish traps have been floating past us. We have never seen so much rubbish in the bay. Have decided not to go ashore tonight – would probably get wet! So will eat on board. We could see a big storm to the east with all the silent lightning but then the wind came up and all of a sudden we had thunder, lightning and torrential rain. We had gone to bed but got up when we heard over the radio – all boats in Nai Harn – there is a cat on the loose. We went up to check and sure enough – a huge tri-catamaran had dragged all the way out and there it was just on our starboard side very close. A couple in a dinghy came out and asked us if it was still moving and we said yes so they boarded the boat. By now it had stopped dragging and it was dangerously close to us and it became clear that the people were not going to move it so we had to upanchor in the storm and go further out the back to re-anchor. There were unlit and badly lit boats around and the only way you can see them is when the lightning flashed. You could say it was a little bit stressful!!! Nai Harn has not been kind to us the year.
Wednesday 2 March – Nai Harn to Ao Chalong
The sea was a bit rolly so we upanchored and went around the point to the other side of Phuket Island. Ao Chalong is full of boats – big and small and also full of buoys so it is always a problem anchoring. We found a spot between three boats on buoys and a huge big wooden boat also on a buoy but his buoy has a big long rope and then he has a big long rope from the buoy to the boat so his swing room is enormous. We went ashore at 4pm and went to the Villa Market and bought some vegemite (and licorice)!! Then had dinner – the most magnificent huge salad – the meals at the Anchor Inn are enormous. Then Peter went to the dentist and Dell stayed to chat a while with Bach & Byte who had joined us. It was well after 8 when we started back to the boat and we could see the lightning and the dark sky. Got back to the boat about half an hour before the storm hit – timing!! We were sitting behind the huge big wooden boat and could see their TV so they were reasonably close!
Thursday 3 March – Ao Chalong
This morning we saw the most amazing thing – Peter said is that a hang glider with a boat on it. And sure enough it was a hang glider with an engine with a dinghy attached to the bottom and a person sitting in it. He bought it in to land on the water then motored to the boat ramp and drove up it – must have had some sort of wheels as well. A little later he took off and flew over us heading to another island!!! Amazing. Another thing we saw in a shop were kayaks with motors (water jet engines – no prop) in the back – Stu & Jean!!!! Good for when you get tired of paddling. Checked the weather for the day and decided to move as we were a little uneasy about the huge big boat thinking if a big blow came it would be possible for his long ropes to stretch and if we were behind him it might be a bit too close for comfort so we moved further out. Made the long trek to shore - about 1 ½ k and went to the paint store and found some paint which will do the interior of our boat and then wandered through the Home Store with all sorts of interesting things for the house. Then went back to the Anchor Inn for dinner and another one of those huge salads. It was almost dark when we headed back and dark by the time we got to the boat. It was a lovely still night with the sea like glass and we sat and watched the lights on the shore – very peaceful.
Friday 4 March – Ao Chalong
Caught the bus to Phuket town and walked around looking in all the lovely shops and went to the Dibuk Restaurant and Peter had the squid stuffed with pork which Brett had last time - it had gone up 20bht but was just as delicious. We were supposed to take a photo of it but the camera wasn’t working! Dell had the spicy pork which was also delicious. We were going to take the bus back but a tuk tuk driver offered to take us back for 100 bht (against 60 bht) so we said ok but as soon as he had us in the tuk tuk it was ‘I will take you to three stores you don’t have to buy anything but I will get free petrol for taking you there’! We weren’t at all keen as we had been caught with this in Bangkok, however, as it turned out the three stores were fantastic and we spent quite some time in them and yes we did purchase something. But it didn’t keep the tuk tuk man happy as we needed to spend 500 Bht for him to get a free t-shirt – our purchase didn’t come to that!! We went to the Anchor Inn and had another wonderful salad.
 |
| From gekko |
Calm Seas and Fair Winds
Dell and Peter
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Sat 19 to Fri 25 Feb Surin Isles to Khao Lak
Saturday 19 Feb –Surins
We had a really rough night with the swell coming through. A fishing boat had left the big yellow buoy in front of Cilantro so we headed over and took that one up. We jumped in Bob and went up through the channel where the really good coral was supposed to be but it was all dead so we didn’t bother snorkelling. Went back to the beach where we had first been and snorkelled there but the coral was all dead and there weren’t many fish. So we tried the other side near the boats but it was the same. A yacht left so we moved buoys a bit closer in away from where all the fishing boats raft up and give their catch to the waiting boat which must then deliver it to the market. Had sundowners with Cilantro and planned for next day. The Surins were a big disappointment.
Sunday 20 Feb – Surins – Koh Bungu Similan Islands
08°40.524N 097°38.737E
We left at 6.45 in sloppy seas with no wind so we motored. We put the spinnaker up but it was only up for 15 minutes then it fell in the water! Peter hooked a 5 ft wahoo and got it to the back of the boat – biggest fish we have ever seen – but it bit through the wire trace when he tried to gaff it. We tied up on a buoy at Koh Bangu at 4.15. There were fish everywhere under the boat so we jumped in to watch them – big fish and all different sorts. A lady of the German yacht next to us snorkelled by following a turtle and it came right up to her about a foot away from her face. Really beautiful turtle. A lovely place. The rangers came out and collected 400 bht each ($13) and 100 bht for the boat per day. We had a quiet night on board with Cilantro on the next buoy.
Monday 21 Feb – Koh Bungu
At 10am all the speedboats came in and bought heaps of snorkelers. We had a snorkel at lunch time when they had left. Heaps of huge big colourful fish. The reef is pretty much dead but the fish are fabulous. In the afternoon Cilantro collected us in their dinghy and we went across the channel to Island 8 (there are 9 islands in the Similan group) which is where the ranger station is. It has a beautiful beach and big boulders all round and is full of boats and tourists. We had a look around and went up the walk to the high boulders which overlooks both islands (8 and 9). Fabulous view. We had a swim and waited till all the tour boats left – the beach was lovely without anyone on it. Had sundowners on Pacific Express.
Tuesday 22 Feb – Koh Banhu to Koh Miang (island 4) Similans
Had a snorkel at 9am – all the boats came in at 10am and they were hand feeding the turtle with bananas. This explained why the turtle was so friendly!!! We left at 12.15 and motored to Koh Miang (Island 4) where we tied up on a buoy but it was too rough. Cilantro went around the other side of the island and radioed that it was better so we went round there too and tied up to a buoy –anchoring is only allowed in really deep water. We picked Cilantro up in Bob and went to shore for a swim. It is pure white sand with clear aqua water – just gorgeous. We had sundowners on our boat watching schools of lovely fish all around the boat. Had a lovely still night.
Wednesday 23 Feb – Koh Miang Similans
Cilantro left at 6.30 to head back to the mainland. Their visa is almost up and then they return to Australia for three weeks. After they left it got really rough here so we left to circumnavigate the southern three islands. The southern one had a gorgeous beach but only one buoy and unfortunately someone was on it. Came back to Koh Miang and tied up on the buoy Cilantro had been on. Went for a snorkel and saw a huge cow fish red with white spots and also another one with army camouflage and big cow eyes. Not sure if they weren’t some sort of puffer fish or cow fish. But very pretty. Tried snorkelling in a few different places and then back to the boat. The seas have settled a bit but it is still rocky.
Thursday 24 Feb – Koh Miang to Ban Thap Lamu
08°34.144N 098°13.032E
Woke at 2am with very strong winds and lightning high in the clouds all around us but no thunder. The large ketch anchored next to us started dragging backwards at a great rate of knots. We could hear thunder but the storm passed about 10 miles south of us. Daylight found us side on to the swell and rolling quite a bit so dropped the buoy and headed for the mainland. Thought we could see small dolphins frolicking around us but we think they may have been very large tuna! It was a lumpy trip till we got closer to the mainland and then the seas flattened out. We had wind on the nose all the way but just as we were going into Khao Lak it went SW (supposed to be NE) and the sky had a strange look and the weather felt weird so we went another 10nm up to the river at Ban Thap Lamu where the naval base is. We came in a picked up a buoy (which saved us putting our anchor in the mud!) Had a really peaceful night and slept really well.
Friday 25 Feb – Ban Thap Lamu – Khao Lak
It was a beautiful day so we went across the river to the town to get our internet topped up. Its rather a smelly kind of place. The last time we were here there were heaps of fishing boats all rafted up and the river was brown. There’s not half as many boats now and the river is a lovely green. Had lunch and then headed back up to Khao Lak where we hope to catch up with Peter’s cousin from Germany. We anchored off the little plastic jetty and went in for dinner at the beach side restaurant. As soon as we got to the jetty a young man came down to ask us about the boat and where we were from as he is trying to convince his wife to go sailing. He even offered us the use of the shower in his unit! We went for a walk up the street to see a bit of the town and to work out where we are to tell Peter’s cousin Axel and his wife Elisabeth. We last saw them about 27 years ago when we visited them in Germany. We came back and had a lovely dinner chatting to the couple at the table next door as they would like to have a sailing holiday here in December.
Well we have booked ourselves on the Sail Malaysia rally to the East leaving at the end of April. It will take us down the west coast of Malaysia and half way up the east coast and then across to Borneo – Sarawak and Sabah. If you are interested the website is www.sailmalaysia.net. There is also the Rainforest World Music Festival on in July in Kuching (www.rainforestmusic-borneo.com) so have bought three day passes for that. The rally ends in August. There are quite a few boats that we know doing it and at the end of it will be decision time for us all as to which direction we go next.
Meanwhile take care.
Calm seas be careful what you wish for!!
Dell and Peter
We had a really rough night with the swell coming through. A fishing boat had left the big yellow buoy in front of Cilantro so we headed over and took that one up. We jumped in Bob and went up through the channel where the really good coral was supposed to be but it was all dead so we didn’t bother snorkelling. Went back to the beach where we had first been and snorkelled there but the coral was all dead and there weren’t many fish. So we tried the other side near the boats but it was the same. A yacht left so we moved buoys a bit closer in away from where all the fishing boats raft up and give their catch to the waiting boat which must then deliver it to the market. Had sundowners with Cilantro and planned for next day. The Surins were a big disappointment.
Sunday 20 Feb – Surins – Koh Bungu Similan Islands
08°40.524N 097°38.737E
We left at 6.45 in sloppy seas with no wind so we motored. We put the spinnaker up but it was only up for 15 minutes then it fell in the water! Peter hooked a 5 ft wahoo and got it to the back of the boat – biggest fish we have ever seen – but it bit through the wire trace when he tried to gaff it. We tied up on a buoy at Koh Bangu at 4.15. There were fish everywhere under the boat so we jumped in to watch them – big fish and all different sorts. A lady of the German yacht next to us snorkelled by following a turtle and it came right up to her about a foot away from her face. Really beautiful turtle. A lovely place. The rangers came out and collected 400 bht each ($13) and 100 bht for the boat per day. We had a quiet night on board with Cilantro on the next buoy.
Monday 21 Feb – Koh Bungu
At 10am all the speedboats came in and bought heaps of snorkelers. We had a snorkel at lunch time when they had left. Heaps of huge big colourful fish. The reef is pretty much dead but the fish are fabulous. In the afternoon Cilantro collected us in their dinghy and we went across the channel to Island 8 (there are 9 islands in the Similan group) which is where the ranger station is. It has a beautiful beach and big boulders all round and is full of boats and tourists. We had a look around and went up the walk to the high boulders which overlooks both islands (8 and 9). Fabulous view. We had a swim and waited till all the tour boats left – the beach was lovely without anyone on it. Had sundowners on Pacific Express.
Tuesday 22 Feb – Koh Banhu to Koh Miang (island 4) Similans
Had a snorkel at 9am – all the boats came in at 10am and they were hand feeding the turtle with bananas. This explained why the turtle was so friendly!!! We left at 12.15 and motored to Koh Miang (Island 4) where we tied up on a buoy but it was too rough. Cilantro went around the other side of the island and radioed that it was better so we went round there too and tied up to a buoy –anchoring is only allowed in really deep water. We picked Cilantro up in Bob and went to shore for a swim. It is pure white sand with clear aqua water – just gorgeous. We had sundowners on our boat watching schools of lovely fish all around the boat. Had a lovely still night.
Wednesday 23 Feb – Koh Miang Similans
Cilantro left at 6.30 to head back to the mainland. Their visa is almost up and then they return to Australia for three weeks. After they left it got really rough here so we left to circumnavigate the southern three islands. The southern one had a gorgeous beach but only one buoy and unfortunately someone was on it. Came back to Koh Miang and tied up on the buoy Cilantro had been on. Went for a snorkel and saw a huge cow fish red with white spots and also another one with army camouflage and big cow eyes. Not sure if they weren’t some sort of puffer fish or cow fish. But very pretty. Tried snorkelling in a few different places and then back to the boat. The seas have settled a bit but it is still rocky.
Thursday 24 Feb – Koh Miang to Ban Thap Lamu
08°34.144N 098°13.032E
Woke at 2am with very strong winds and lightning high in the clouds all around us but no thunder. The large ketch anchored next to us started dragging backwards at a great rate of knots. We could hear thunder but the storm passed about 10 miles south of us. Daylight found us side on to the swell and rolling quite a bit so dropped the buoy and headed for the mainland. Thought we could see small dolphins frolicking around us but we think they may have been very large tuna! It was a lumpy trip till we got closer to the mainland and then the seas flattened out. We had wind on the nose all the way but just as we were going into Khao Lak it went SW (supposed to be NE) and the sky had a strange look and the weather felt weird so we went another 10nm up to the river at Ban Thap Lamu where the naval base is. We came in a picked up a buoy (which saved us putting our anchor in the mud!) Had a really peaceful night and slept really well.
Friday 25 Feb – Ban Thap Lamu – Khao Lak
It was a beautiful day so we went across the river to the town to get our internet topped up. Its rather a smelly kind of place. The last time we were here there were heaps of fishing boats all rafted up and the river was brown. There’s not half as many boats now and the river is a lovely green. Had lunch and then headed back up to Khao Lak where we hope to catch up with Peter’s cousin from Germany. We anchored off the little plastic jetty and went in for dinner at the beach side restaurant. As soon as we got to the jetty a young man came down to ask us about the boat and where we were from as he is trying to convince his wife to go sailing. He even offered us the use of the shower in his unit! We went for a walk up the street to see a bit of the town and to work out where we are to tell Peter’s cousin Axel and his wife Elisabeth. We last saw them about 27 years ago when we visited them in Germany. We came back and had a lovely dinner chatting to the couple at the table next door as they would like to have a sailing holiday here in December.
Well we have booked ourselves on the Sail Malaysia rally to the East leaving at the end of April. It will take us down the west coast of Malaysia and half way up the east coast and then across to Borneo – Sarawak and Sabah. If you are interested the website is www.sailmalaysia.net. There is also the Rainforest World Music Festival on in July in Kuching (www.rainforestmusic-borneo.com) so have bought three day passes for that. The rally ends in August. There are quite a few boats that we know doing it and at the end of it will be decision time for us all as to which direction we go next.
Meanwhile take care.
Calm seas be careful what you wish for!!
Dell and Peter
Monday, February 21, 2011
Sat 12 to Fri 18 Feb - Koh Phayam to Surin Isles
Saturday 12 Feb - Koh Phayam
Bit blowy but sunny. Went ashore at 11 and walked to the middle of the beach where a cement path went up. There are no roads, just wide footpaths and no cars only motorbikes. People are taken to their rooms by motorbike taxi. It was a beautiful walk with a few shops/stores along the way and we noticed lots of cashew nut trees. The nut grows at the end of a fruit. Peter tried to bite the cashew out if its shell but his mouth started burning - we have since found out that they are poisonous! We saw the nuts laid out to dry and then we came across a lady who was shelling them with a machine operated by foot pedal. There are lots of large solar panels everywhere. Also a lot of rubber trees. We walked about 5 km. Stopped at halfway and had a wonderful pineapple shake - lots of ice - which helped soother Peter's lips!!! There are two piers at the village - one has a Bhuddist temple at the end of it and the other is where the tour boats come in. We had a lovely lunch and could see a squirrel in a cage in the street - next thing the people took it down and were kicking it around with the poor little squirrel in it - looked terribly cruel. Then they poured water over it. Seems that it had got covered in green ants and they were trying to get them off - sadly the poor little thing died - was horrible. We took another footpath back - not so well used by bikes and no shops but very interesting - lots of huts where people lived and the odd mansion and we came back out on to the beach at the other end. Came back with a few beer stops and ended up at the Hornbill again where we sat and watched the sun set and shared a couple of appetisers which thankfully were huge. We were sitting on plastic chairs and James got his caught in a crack in the floor and he went over flat on his back! We adjourned to the Froggy restaurant where we were warned that there would be a bit of a wait as they were serving about six people on another table. To cut a long story short we waited 1 ½ hrs watching the other table get heaps of food. When we finally got ours it was very small and one of the worst meals we have ever had. And it was also expensive. The crispy tuna salad appeared to be the dregs that float on the top of the fryer and was totally inedible. The cat even ran away! So our early night ended up very late and was a disappointing finish to a wonderful day.
Bit blowy but sunny. Went ashore at 11 and walked to the middle of the beach where a cement path went up. There are no roads, just wide footpaths and no cars only motorbikes. People are taken to their rooms by motorbike taxi. It was a beautiful walk with a few shops/stores along the way and we noticed lots of cashew nut trees. The nut grows at the end of a fruit. Peter tried to bite the cashew out if its shell but his mouth started burning - we have since found out that they are poisonous! We saw the nuts laid out to dry and then we came across a lady who was shelling them with a machine operated by foot pedal. There are lots of large solar panels everywhere. Also a lot of rubber trees. We walked about 5 km. Stopped at halfway and had a wonderful pineapple shake - lots of ice - which helped soother Peter's lips!!! There are two piers at the village - one has a Bhuddist temple at the end of it and the other is where the tour boats come in. We had a lovely lunch and could see a squirrel in a cage in the street - next thing the people took it down and were kicking it around with the poor little squirrel in it - looked terribly cruel. Then they poured water over it. Seems that it had got covered in green ants and they were trying to get them off - sadly the poor little thing died - was horrible. We took another footpath back - not so well used by bikes and no shops but very interesting - lots of huts where people lived and the odd mansion and we came back out on to the beach at the other end. Came back with a few beer stops and ended up at the Hornbill again where we sat and watched the sun set and shared a couple of appetisers which thankfully were huge. We were sitting on plastic chairs and James got his caught in a crack in the floor and he went over flat on his back! We adjourned to the Froggy restaurant where we were warned that there would be a bit of a wait as they were serving about six people on another table. To cut a long story short we waited 1 ½ hrs watching the other table get heaps of food. When we finally got ours it was very small and one of the worst meals we have ever had. And it was also expensive. The crispy tuna salad appeared to be the dregs that float on the top of the fryer and was totally inedible. The cat even ran away! So our early night ended up very late and was a disappointing finish to a wonderful day.
Sunday 13 Feb - Koh Phayam
Had a very late start to the day then Mandolin Wind called us up on the radio so we waited till they and Braveheart got in. Saw something spiralling towards the water from a great height and were amazed to see it was two eagles joined together just spiralling down. When they were almost at the water they pulled apart and flew away. We went ashore at 2pm. Sandra and Dell walked to the shops up the footpath and bought some sandles, cakes and cashewnuts while the boys settled into a bar. It was a lot hotter today. We walked back to our dinghies and had a swim. At 6.30 we collected Cilantro and met up with Braveheart and Mandolin Wind so all went to the Hornbill restaurant and another English couple joined us. We are amazed at how people actually find these wonderful little out of the way places. It is by no means crowded but all the little huts and units seem to be full. It is a really laid back place. We had a lovely night. As we were coming out in Bob the only wave for the day broke over us and Sandra and Dell got soaked. But a lovely day.
Monday 14 Feb - Koh Phayam
Moved around to Buffalo Bay just around the corner. It is really pretty and is more protected with rocks at the back. Nimbus, Jellyfish and Alpha Centauri are all here. Apparently there had been a village here but it got wiped out by the tsunami so the Government built the village over the other side of the bay and the beach is now laid back little resorts and cabins. The hippy bar has been build out of scraps of wood from the sea. While we were hanging the washing we started hearing shouts for help. We could see a girl pushing through the water to shore and there was a snorkeller behind her. Then we heard what she was saying - help my boyfriend has disappeared and has not come up. So all the dinghies from all the yachts came and we were doing a bit of a grid search. The girl came out in a Thai boat from shore and one of the lads jumped in so we gave him our snorkel. It was becoming pretty clear by now that we were searching for a body and it was the most awful feeling and then there was a shout from out in the bay and there he was on a kayak. The girl was in the most awful case of shock and had cut her feet up pretty badly. When we went ashore a bit later to the hippy bar they turned up to buy us all a beer. Turned out he had followed a snorkeller to shore thinking it was her and when he found it wasn't he had gone to get the kayak to look for her. She meanwhile had followed someone else and when she realised it wasn't him and couldn't find him she panicked. Anyway alls well that ends well and we were all much relieved to see him. We joined Cilantro and Nimbus for dinner at Mr Goa's which was very pleasant indeed. While we walked along the beach a few dogs started howling and being very vocal then dogs came from everywhere and they all had a dog convention all howling for about five minutes and then they appeared happy and dispersed! Very strange.
Tuesday 15 Feb - Koh Phayam
We went to shore at 10.30 and together with Cilantro followed a hard dirt track through the jungle over the saddle in the hill. The jungle was very cool and we saw some monkeys but they ran away - seemed afraid of man. We came out on another beautiful beach with a restaurant and some cabins. One cabin was built on the rocks at the end of the beach - what a perfect spot! We walked the beach then had a swim. The water got deep rather quickly and while we were talking a big pike fish leapt out of the water behind James and Sandra startling all of us including the fish. We adjourned to the restaurant and had a lovely lunch then walked back up through the jungle. There were lots of little offshoot tracks leading down to the various resorts and restaurants. We walked till the track turned into a concrete road and then headed in to the Concept restaurant which was perched on the top of a cliff. It was very rocky offshore here. It was so lovely and cool so we had a drink then went down the stairs and walked around the headland on the rocks along the beach back to our dinghies where we had another swim and then joined Braveheart in a restaurant for a sundowner. We all adjourned back to our boats and met ashore for dinner with Cilantro, Braveheart and Mandolin Wind. Another pleasant evening.
Wednesday 16 Feb - Koh Phaya
Met Cilantro ashore at 1 and walked to the village to buy some fruit for the next section of our journey. We managed to get some warm bread rolls then walked back via the temple jetty. Sandra and James took their supplies back to their boat while we walked down to the Australian's shop to get information re Koh Chang which is the next island up. Unfortunatley they were closed so walked back and met Cilantro and Alpha Centauri at the restaurant. We had a lovely meal and saw the biggest gecko - red spots all over him. They feed him chicken and we didn't have the camera!!! He makes a very loud ge-ko sound.
Thursday 17 Feb - Koh Phayam to Koh Chang
09°50.846N 098°26.347E
We left at 10am and headed 5miles further up to Koh Chang. This is only 2 1/2miles from the Burmese border. We passed a Thai destroyer on the way. We went in between the marked rocks and the beach and it suddenly went very shallow. We think the rocks must continue to the beach. Got back into 7 metres and anchored quite close to the beach. The sand was black and not as nice as Phayam but very laid back. Restaurants and cabins on the beach. We decided to go for a walk but had trouble locating the path. Walked to a dam and instead of tracing our steps we went on and fournd the pier but there were no further footpaths. Suffice to say we walked for four hours - found the gypsy village down a little dirt track through jungle - we didn't mean to find it!!!! Anyway we eventually found our way back to the beach - saw some hornbill birds. Had a beer in three different restaurants - we were gasping and then went back to the first one to eat. Had a lovely meal then an early night!!
Friday 18 Feb - Koh Chang to Surins
Left at 7am and headed out and followed the red line of the border with Burma on the chartplotter. Caused a bit of a dog leg but though it was better to be safe than sorry!! Motored all day- light winds but not in the right direction. Peter actually caught his first fish in 18 months - an 81cm Spanish mackerel. Fish for dinner! We arrived at the Surin Islands (3 clustered islands) at 3.30. Cilantro picked up a big yellow buoy and we went to the other side of the bay and picked up a red buoy not too far from the beach so we are in a top spot.
Hoping you are all well - missing you
Calm seas but a bit of wind would be good
Dell and Peter
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Sunday, February 13, 2011
5 – 11 February – Koh Muk to Koh Phayam
Saturday 5 Feb– Koh Muk to Panwa Bali
Left at 6.30am & stopped at 11.30 to put Bob on board as he was slowing us down. Had a good sail day with intermittent motoring. Peter saw a sailfish break the water. We checked out the fishing island Ko Mai Thon but it was a very small anchorage so we kept going to Panwa Bali which is opposite Ao Chalong and anchored at 5.30pm next to Cilantro who rowed over for sundowners.
Sunday 6 Feb – Panwa Bali to Ko Racha Yai
Unanchored at 10am heading to Ko Racha Yai which was two hours away. It was a very rough trip over but we sailed all the way. A very pretty bay with crystal clear water but awash with tour boats. We anchored and waited till the tour boats left and then went ashore. Tied up to the floating jetty as it was too rocky to get to the beach. There is quite an exclusive resort so everything was expensive, even the beachside bars. As Peter was walking along the path a huge monitor lizard was ambling along in front of him. Apparently there are a lot on this island. We walked to the other side of the island where the bay is too shallow and rocky for boats to get in and there weren’t many people around but the beers were even more expensive. Came back just on dusk and ate a mediocre meal and then back to the boats.
Monday 7 Feb- Ko Racha Yai to Nai Harn
Upanchored at 10am and did a trolling run along the island to no avail (we haven’t caught a fish forever!!!!) and then headed to a very crowded Ao Chalong where we managed to squeeze in among the other yachts. We went to check in to Thailand while Cilantro went to retrieve their dinghy and motor, both of which had been in for repair. Got back to the boats about 3.30 and proceeded around the headland to Nai Harn where we anchored for the night quite close to Braveheart. We went in Cilantro’s dinghy to shore and had a lovely meal which was a little more expensive than usual but that is the difference between high season and low season (still cheap though!!). The waves were small but breaking so it was with trepidation that Dell got in the dinghy!! But we made it out without mishap!
Tuesday 8 February – Nai Harn to Ao Bang Tao
Departed at 8am for Patong – not much wind so motor sailed. We walked to the supermarket and then the wet market to get our supplies then caught a tuk tuk back. Got quite wet getting into Bob to go back to the boat but we are starting to get used to that again!!! We left at 3.30 and sailed to Ao Bang Tao arriving around 5.30. Braveheart and Mandolin Wind were anchored and invited us in to dinner but we had a quiet night on board.
Wednesday 9 February – Ao Bang Tao – Kao Lak
09°10’315N 098°18’476E
Left just after 8 and went around to Nai Yang Bay and said hullo to Wavesweeper and Single Malt who had just returned from where we are going and got some good information from them. Then we continued on up the coast – sailed most of the way with intermittent motoring. Arrived at Kao Lak around 5.30. It was a strange place to get into – lots of rocks - and we had an exhilarating moment when the water shallowed up and depths went all over the place – rocks underneath we think. Went a bit further north and nudged it in to 4m just off a little floating plastic jetty. Cilantro picked us up at 6.30 and we tied up at the jetty as the beach had quite a steep drop off to the water. To the left of the jetty were lots of resorts and to the right of the jetty were lots of little restaurants on the beach. While Patong is full of Russians this place seems to have a German influence and in fact we hope to meet up with Peter’s German cousin here on our return. We walked along the beach and inspected all the menus and came back to the first one which seemed to be the most popular. We asked to see the menu and he snatched them off a couple already seated and gave to us – we hoped they had finished with them!!! We were seated at a table on the beach. We had the loveliest tastiest meal. The boys went down to the water in the dark to “inspect the sea”. The English lady asked “are they inspecting the sea!” She didn’t really but you get my drift!!!! Anyway we got talking to her and her Dutch husband and they joined us at our table It was a very enjoyable evening with very good company and we had quite a laugh. When we went back the jetty was all lit up and it was very pretty.
Thursday 10 Feb – Kao Lak – Ban Pak Chok – Happy Birthday Patrick
09°10’315N 098°18’476E
We left at 8am. We headed back out the way we came in and even then cut a corner a bit fine!! Cilantro headed up the coast through the shallow water and were mostly in 2.5m. The sea was very calm and we motored all day though we did put up our mainsails in hope. We got to the entrance to the channel behind the island of Koh Phra Thong around 1pm. We dropped the mains and we suddenly went down to 2.1m under the keel and we could see the sandy bottom. Once we got into the channel it was deep water again. We motored all the way up the channel arriving at 3.30. It was quite a pretty trip between Koh Phra Thong and the mainland and we saw something that looked as though it may once have been a dirt bunker. Must look up some history on the place. An interesting day seeing places we have never been before. We anchored in 4.3m and had such a still night. The mossies came out so we locked ourselves below with a fan and watched part 1 of The Lord of the Rings.
Friday 11 Feb – Ban Pak Chok – Ko Phayam
09°43’587N 098°23’102E
Left at 8am and went down to 1.3m under the keel on the way out. Motored till the channel came out in the ocean and we sailed for three hours then motored for a while. Two large fishing boats passed us and as they got in front we could smell them – not nice! Dodged a few fish traps – some with flags, some escaped and floating and arrived at Koh Phayam at 3.30. We are now just 6 miles from the Burmese seaward border and around 15 miles from the land border. We are at a lovely island in a sheltered bay. The beach is very hard and motor bikes go up and down it but at the high water mark the sand is lovely and soft and white. There are lots of little restaurants along the beach so we walked half way along the beach and went to one (Joker) and had a beer but couldn’t get served again to order food. So we went to the restaurant next door and ordered two dishes between the four of us then went to Hornbills and ordered another two – beautiful food. Left to try the next restaurant (Froggy) but their kitchen closed at 10 and as it was now 9.30 it was closed! Went back to the Cuisine and had another two meals and the lady told us not many tourists come because there is no air con and no TV. We had noticed a whole stack of batteries so deduced there is only self generated power. We came out to the boat in the dark but couldn’t see or hear James and Sandra so went back in to check. On the way out they had run over the line to a little red boat which was on a buoy. James said to Sandra I think we are towing that boat and sure enough the line had attached itself to them !!! So they took the boat to shore and pulled it high up on the beach – we arrived in time to help. Not sure what the owner of the red boat will say when he finds it way up the beach but at least it’s safe! The beach actually dries a long way out so at low tide its quite a way.
Well we are on our way again on a journey to new places and it feels more like we have a purpose now. Give Jessie, Charlie and our little Rosie cuddles from us – we miss them.
Calm seas and fair winds
Dell and Peter
Left at 6.30am & stopped at 11.30 to put Bob on board as he was slowing us down. Had a good sail day with intermittent motoring. Peter saw a sailfish break the water. We checked out the fishing island Ko Mai Thon but it was a very small anchorage so we kept going to Panwa Bali which is opposite Ao Chalong and anchored at 5.30pm next to Cilantro who rowed over for sundowners.
Sunday 6 Feb – Panwa Bali to Ko Racha Yai
Unanchored at 10am heading to Ko Racha Yai which was two hours away. It was a very rough trip over but we sailed all the way. A very pretty bay with crystal clear water but awash with tour boats. We anchored and waited till the tour boats left and then went ashore. Tied up to the floating jetty as it was too rocky to get to the beach. There is quite an exclusive resort so everything was expensive, even the beachside bars. As Peter was walking along the path a huge monitor lizard was ambling along in front of him. Apparently there are a lot on this island. We walked to the other side of the island where the bay is too shallow and rocky for boats to get in and there weren’t many people around but the beers were even more expensive. Came back just on dusk and ate a mediocre meal and then back to the boats.
Monday 7 Feb- Ko Racha Yai to Nai Harn
Upanchored at 10am and did a trolling run along the island to no avail (we haven’t caught a fish forever!!!!) and then headed to a very crowded Ao Chalong where we managed to squeeze in among the other yachts. We went to check in to Thailand while Cilantro went to retrieve their dinghy and motor, both of which had been in for repair. Got back to the boats about 3.30 and proceeded around the headland to Nai Harn where we anchored for the night quite close to Braveheart. We went in Cilantro’s dinghy to shore and had a lovely meal which was a little more expensive than usual but that is the difference between high season and low season (still cheap though!!). The waves were small but breaking so it was with trepidation that Dell got in the dinghy!! But we made it out without mishap!
Tuesday 8 February – Nai Harn to Ao Bang Tao
Departed at 8am for Patong – not much wind so motor sailed. We walked to the supermarket and then the wet market to get our supplies then caught a tuk tuk back. Got quite wet getting into Bob to go back to the boat but we are starting to get used to that again!!! We left at 3.30 and sailed to Ao Bang Tao arriving around 5.30. Braveheart and Mandolin Wind were anchored and invited us in to dinner but we had a quiet night on board.
Wednesday 9 February – Ao Bang Tao – Kao Lak
09°10’315N 098°18’476E
Left just after 8 and went around to Nai Yang Bay and said hullo to Wavesweeper and Single Malt who had just returned from where we are going and got some good information from them. Then we continued on up the coast – sailed most of the way with intermittent motoring. Arrived at Kao Lak around 5.30. It was a strange place to get into – lots of rocks - and we had an exhilarating moment when the water shallowed up and depths went all over the place – rocks underneath we think. Went a bit further north and nudged it in to 4m just off a little floating plastic jetty. Cilantro picked us up at 6.30 and we tied up at the jetty as the beach had quite a steep drop off to the water. To the left of the jetty were lots of resorts and to the right of the jetty were lots of little restaurants on the beach. While Patong is full of Russians this place seems to have a German influence and in fact we hope to meet up with Peter’s German cousin here on our return. We walked along the beach and inspected all the menus and came back to the first one which seemed to be the most popular. We asked to see the menu and he snatched them off a couple already seated and gave to us – we hoped they had finished with them!!! We were seated at a table on the beach. We had the loveliest tastiest meal. The boys went down to the water in the dark to “inspect the sea”. The English lady asked “are they inspecting the sea!” She didn’t really but you get my drift!!!! Anyway we got talking to her and her Dutch husband and they joined us at our table It was a very enjoyable evening with very good company and we had quite a laugh. When we went back the jetty was all lit up and it was very pretty.
Thursday 10 Feb – Kao Lak – Ban Pak Chok – Happy Birthday Patrick
09°10’315N 098°18’476E
We left at 8am. We headed back out the way we came in and even then cut a corner a bit fine!! Cilantro headed up the coast through the shallow water and were mostly in 2.5m. The sea was very calm and we motored all day though we did put up our mainsails in hope. We got to the entrance to the channel behind the island of Koh Phra Thong around 1pm. We dropped the mains and we suddenly went down to 2.1m under the keel and we could see the sandy bottom. Once we got into the channel it was deep water again. We motored all the way up the channel arriving at 3.30. It was quite a pretty trip between Koh Phra Thong and the mainland and we saw something that looked as though it may once have been a dirt bunker. Must look up some history on the place. An interesting day seeing places we have never been before. We anchored in 4.3m and had such a still night. The mossies came out so we locked ourselves below with a fan and watched part 1 of The Lord of the Rings.
Friday 11 Feb – Ban Pak Chok – Ko Phayam
09°43’587N 098°23’102E
Left at 8am and went down to 1.3m under the keel on the way out. Motored till the channel came out in the ocean and we sailed for three hours then motored for a while. Two large fishing boats passed us and as they got in front we could smell them – not nice! Dodged a few fish traps – some with flags, some escaped and floating and arrived at Koh Phayam at 3.30. We are now just 6 miles from the Burmese seaward border and around 15 miles from the land border. We are at a lovely island in a sheltered bay. The beach is very hard and motor bikes go up and down it but at the high water mark the sand is lovely and soft and white. There are lots of little restaurants along the beach so we walked half way along the beach and went to one (Joker) and had a beer but couldn’t get served again to order food. So we went to the restaurant next door and ordered two dishes between the four of us then went to Hornbills and ordered another two – beautiful food. Left to try the next restaurant (Froggy) but their kitchen closed at 10 and as it was now 9.30 it was closed! Went back to the Cuisine and had another two meals and the lady told us not many tourists come because there is no air con and no TV. We had noticed a whole stack of batteries so deduced there is only self generated power. We came out to the boat in the dark but couldn’t see or hear James and Sandra so went back in to check. On the way out they had run over the line to a little red boat which was on a buoy. James said to Sandra I think we are towing that boat and sure enough the line had attached itself to them !!! So they took the boat to shore and pulled it high up on the beach – we arrived in time to help. Not sure what the owner of the red boat will say when he finds it way up the beach but at least it’s safe! The beach actually dries a long way out so at low tide its quite a way.
Well we are on our way again on a journey to new places and it feels more like we have a purpose now. Give Jessie, Charlie and our little Rosie cuddles from us – we miss them.
Calm seas and fair winds
Dell and Peter
Thursday, February 10, 2011
15 Jan to 4 Feb - Thailand/Malaysia
Saturday 15 Jan – Happy Birthday Kristen
We got up at 6.30 and went into the beach for a walk. Lots of people sleeping on the beach but nice and quiet and lovely to see it without the crowds. Left at 9.15 and sailed along nicely with the main and headsail - we think we have gained at least 1 – 2 knots in speed since having the boat painted. The deck used to be a pale grey but now it is white and we cant believe the difference it makes – we can actually stand on it now without it burning our feet – its fantastic. The only downside is white tends to get a bit dirty!! Sailed to Ao Chalong , shopped and had dinner at Took’s new restaurant which was a bit embarrassing as it was obvious she wasn’t ready to open yet but cooked us up a good meal anyway.
Sunday 16 Jan
Boat cleaning day getting ready for the survey we have to have on the boat before our insurance company will insure us again. Our insurance company – Yacht Sure set us adrift before Christmas and refused to cover us till we had the survey despite the fact we had paid for a year’s cover. We managed to get the third party reinstated but only after Christmas as no-one was at work. Made us wonder how hard/easy it would be to get help and make a claim! Went to the Anchor Inn for dinner – really good food.
Monday 17 Jan
Brett and I caught the bus to Phuket town – the bus is an open sided truck - and Peter picked up the surveyor. The survey took four hours and went well then Peter checked us all out of Thailand. Meanwhile Brett went to the physio and then we had a lovely lunch. Brett had squid stuffed with pork which turned out to be very nice and we wished we had taken a photo! All back on board, the weather came up a bit so Peter cooked a slap up meal and we ate on board.
Tuesday 18 Jan
We left Ao Chalong in strong winds and larger seas than we had seen in a while. The boys were fine but I went below succumbing to seasickness! The angle of the wind brought us in to Phi Phi Le but there were no spare buoys so just as we were turning away one of the boats dropped a mooring and the boys couldn’t believe their luck and picked it up immediately. We went for a snorkel as conditions were finally perfect! We saw the biggest school of parrot fish with other kinds mixed in and it was a great snorkel and a lovely evening.
Wednesday 19 Jan
Left Phi Phi Le around 9 and anchored at Ko Lanta after 12. We went ashore and found our little bar and the people remembered us from when we were there with Debbie and Phil. We were offered some snake whisky – same snakes in the bottle – they just keep topping up the whisky and so unhygenic!!! We passed on the offer. Had a swim then back to the boat and back in again for dinner. Another pleasant evening on the beach!
Thursday 20 Jan
Motor sailed to Ko Muk and then took Bob around to the Emerald cave. We managed to catch it with hardly any tourists in there. Then we went around the little rocky cove and had a swim. We have never managed to anchor here as there is always a boat in there and it is really only big enough for one boat. Went back to the boat and then to the little local restaurant on the cliff at the end of the beach and had a fabulous cheap meal and watched another gorgeous sunset.
Friday 21 Jan
Departed early and watched the most amazing sunrise – a big orange ball coming up out of the sea. We arrived at Tarutao around 3pm and anchored quite close in and went for a walk. The sandflies attacked Peter. Brett found a soccer ball (or two) washed up on the beach so we had a bit of a kick around then went for a swim to get rid of the sandflies. They stayed with Peter all the way back to the boat!!
Saturday 22 Jan
Left Tarutao and headed for Telaga in Malaysia but it was very crowded with boats and too shallow for spring tides so went to the beaches and nudged our way in and anchored in about 4m. Went ashore and had a look around and ended up eating at Raffi’s bar – best food and a lovely witty waiter named Aslan. There was a live band next door so we ended up there and had a wonderful time. When we came ashore it was low tide so took Bob up the beach and didn’t tie him off and by the time we got back to him – about 1.30am – the water was lapping at his heels!! A great night.
Sunday 23 Jan
Left the beaches around 11 and sailed around to Kuah. Peter checked us into Malaysia while Brett and I shopped. Dined at the local Chinese.
Monday 24 Jan
Saw Braveheart come in so went to say hullo. We did some shopping then met Braveheart to help them celebrate their 84th wedding anniversary – 42 years for Judy and 42 years for Chris!!
Tuesday 25 Jan
Left in a fair amount of breeze and headed back around to the beaches. Nudged in a little bit further and went into dinner at Raffis where Aslan greeted us all by name. A lovely evening.
Wednesday 26 Jan – Happy Australia Day
Headed back round to Telaga hoping to go up in the cable car. Anchored outside the anchorage, took Bob to shore and walked to the cable car, looked around then waited in line till it opened at 12. At 12 a notice went up to say that it was too windy and it wouldn’t be opening! So walked back to Bob and on the way back to the boat the outboard stopped. We thought we were going to have to row the rest of the way but we got it going again – it stopped about three times. Turned out to be dirty fuel but all fixed now. We arrived at Rebak marina and tied up to our berth, checked in, had a welcome shower and then had a slap up meal at the Hard Dock cafe.
Thursday 27 Jan
Brett finally got to go up the mast for Peter to fix a line. It was a little more exhilarating than he expected but he enjoyed the experience and got some good photos. We then caught the launch across to Langkawi, collected our hire car and found a chinese place to have some lunch. Then we took Brett to the airport for his trip home. We really enjoyed his company and I think he enjoyed his time with us – we know he really enjoyed the gastromic experience!!! He loves his food!
Friday 28 Jan – Sun 30th Jan
Started a clean up of the boat putting things where they actually go as we hadn’t had a chance to do that before and getting the boat cleaned and ship shape. Peter serviced the motor, the curtains went back up, the outboard was serviced. Dug our tv out from under the back bunk and worked out how we could install it – its been under the back bunk for almost two years!
Monday 31 Jan
Left Rebak and went back around to Kuah. Caught a taxi to collect our wine from the warehouse and ordered the beer from the jetty lady. Had a wonderful meal at the Asian restaurant and met some yachties who have been up here for some years – interesting people.
Tuesday 1 Feb
Went to town and bought a car stereo dvd / cd player and Peter installed the tv and dvd player and wired it all in so we don’t have wires hanging around everywhere. We did our shopping and found a shop selling cheap dvds. Ate on board and watched a dvd – The Sorcerers Apprentice – because we could!!
Wednesday 2 Feb – Happy Birthday Brett
Quiet boat day and a final shop for supplies.
Thursday 3 Feb
Checked out of Malaysia at 9.30 and headed to Telaga where we took on 300 litres of diesel – 690RM ($230) and headed for Tarutao. Uneventful sailing trip and anchored around 6pm. There was so much phospherence in the water. Saw five monkeys and a pig on the beach and a man camping in a tent in the bushes. Wind gusted very strongly through the night.
Friday 4 Feb
Left at 6.30am – it was just light. Had a good sail in the morning but by afternoon the wind had dropped off and we motored the rest of the way to Koh Muk arriving at 3.30pm. Went to our little restaurant on the hill for dinner. As the tide starting coming in small waves started breaking on the beach so left just on dark while we could still see the waves.
Well we have almost brought you up to date. We are at the stage where we need to do some serious cruising again. Heading up to the Burmese border and then out to the islands next week and trying to decide what we will do this year. The Eastern Malaysian rally is looking good at the moment. Quite a few boats are heading up through the Red Sea at the moment but that is something which is off our agenda. Anyway hope you all came through the cyclone ok. The weather here is coming good at last.
Take care
Dell and Peter
May the wind be always at your back
We got up at 6.30 and went into the beach for a walk. Lots of people sleeping on the beach but nice and quiet and lovely to see it without the crowds. Left at 9.15 and sailed along nicely with the main and headsail - we think we have gained at least 1 – 2 knots in speed since having the boat painted. The deck used to be a pale grey but now it is white and we cant believe the difference it makes – we can actually stand on it now without it burning our feet – its fantastic. The only downside is white tends to get a bit dirty!! Sailed to Ao Chalong , shopped and had dinner at Took’s new restaurant which was a bit embarrassing as it was obvious she wasn’t ready to open yet but cooked us up a good meal anyway.
Sunday 16 Jan
Boat cleaning day getting ready for the survey we have to have on the boat before our insurance company will insure us again. Our insurance company – Yacht Sure set us adrift before Christmas and refused to cover us till we had the survey despite the fact we had paid for a year’s cover. We managed to get the third party reinstated but only after Christmas as no-one was at work. Made us wonder how hard/easy it would be to get help and make a claim! Went to the Anchor Inn for dinner – really good food.
Monday 17 Jan
Brett and I caught the bus to Phuket town – the bus is an open sided truck - and Peter picked up the surveyor. The survey took four hours and went well then Peter checked us all out of Thailand. Meanwhile Brett went to the physio and then we had a lovely lunch. Brett had squid stuffed with pork which turned out to be very nice and we wished we had taken a photo! All back on board, the weather came up a bit so Peter cooked a slap up meal and we ate on board.
Tuesday 18 Jan
We left Ao Chalong in strong winds and larger seas than we had seen in a while. The boys were fine but I went below succumbing to seasickness! The angle of the wind brought us in to Phi Phi Le but there were no spare buoys so just as we were turning away one of the boats dropped a mooring and the boys couldn’t believe their luck and picked it up immediately. We went for a snorkel as conditions were finally perfect! We saw the biggest school of parrot fish with other kinds mixed in and it was a great snorkel and a lovely evening.
Wednesday 19 Jan
Left Phi Phi Le around 9 and anchored at Ko Lanta after 12. We went ashore and found our little bar and the people remembered us from when we were there with Debbie and Phil. We were offered some snake whisky – same snakes in the bottle – they just keep topping up the whisky and so unhygenic!!! We passed on the offer. Had a swim then back to the boat and back in again for dinner. Another pleasant evening on the beach!
Thursday 20 Jan
Motor sailed to Ko Muk and then took Bob around to the Emerald cave. We managed to catch it with hardly any tourists in there. Then we went around the little rocky cove and had a swim. We have never managed to anchor here as there is always a boat in there and it is really only big enough for one boat. Went back to the boat and then to the little local restaurant on the cliff at the end of the beach and had a fabulous cheap meal and watched another gorgeous sunset.
Friday 21 Jan
Departed early and watched the most amazing sunrise – a big orange ball coming up out of the sea. We arrived at Tarutao around 3pm and anchored quite close in and went for a walk. The sandflies attacked Peter. Brett found a soccer ball (or two) washed up on the beach so we had a bit of a kick around then went for a swim to get rid of the sandflies. They stayed with Peter all the way back to the boat!!
Saturday 22 Jan
Left Tarutao and headed for Telaga in Malaysia but it was very crowded with boats and too shallow for spring tides so went to the beaches and nudged our way in and anchored in about 4m. Went ashore and had a look around and ended up eating at Raffi’s bar – best food and a lovely witty waiter named Aslan. There was a live band next door so we ended up there and had a wonderful time. When we came ashore it was low tide so took Bob up the beach and didn’t tie him off and by the time we got back to him – about 1.30am – the water was lapping at his heels!! A great night.
Sunday 23 Jan
Left the beaches around 11 and sailed around to Kuah. Peter checked us into Malaysia while Brett and I shopped. Dined at the local Chinese.
Monday 24 Jan
Saw Braveheart come in so went to say hullo. We did some shopping then met Braveheart to help them celebrate their 84th wedding anniversary – 42 years for Judy and 42 years for Chris!!
Tuesday 25 Jan
Left in a fair amount of breeze and headed back around to the beaches. Nudged in a little bit further and went into dinner at Raffis where Aslan greeted us all by name. A lovely evening.
Wednesday 26 Jan – Happy Australia Day
Headed back round to Telaga hoping to go up in the cable car. Anchored outside the anchorage, took Bob to shore and walked to the cable car, looked around then waited in line till it opened at 12. At 12 a notice went up to say that it was too windy and it wouldn’t be opening! So walked back to Bob and on the way back to the boat the outboard stopped. We thought we were going to have to row the rest of the way but we got it going again – it stopped about three times. Turned out to be dirty fuel but all fixed now. We arrived at Rebak marina and tied up to our berth, checked in, had a welcome shower and then had a slap up meal at the Hard Dock cafe.
Thursday 27 Jan
Brett finally got to go up the mast for Peter to fix a line. It was a little more exhilarating than he expected but he enjoyed the experience and got some good photos. We then caught the launch across to Langkawi, collected our hire car and found a chinese place to have some lunch. Then we took Brett to the airport for his trip home. We really enjoyed his company and I think he enjoyed his time with us – we know he really enjoyed the gastromic experience!!! He loves his food!
Friday 28 Jan – Sun 30th Jan
Started a clean up of the boat putting things where they actually go as we hadn’t had a chance to do that before and getting the boat cleaned and ship shape. Peter serviced the motor, the curtains went back up, the outboard was serviced. Dug our tv out from under the back bunk and worked out how we could install it – its been under the back bunk for almost two years!
Monday 31 Jan
Left Rebak and went back around to Kuah. Caught a taxi to collect our wine from the warehouse and ordered the beer from the jetty lady. Had a wonderful meal at the Asian restaurant and met some yachties who have been up here for some years – interesting people.
Tuesday 1 Feb
Went to town and bought a car stereo dvd / cd player and Peter installed the tv and dvd player and wired it all in so we don’t have wires hanging around everywhere. We did our shopping and found a shop selling cheap dvds. Ate on board and watched a dvd – The Sorcerers Apprentice – because we could!!
Wednesday 2 Feb – Happy Birthday Brett
Quiet boat day and a final shop for supplies.
Thursday 3 Feb
Checked out of Malaysia at 9.30 and headed to Telaga where we took on 300 litres of diesel – 690RM ($230) and headed for Tarutao. Uneventful sailing trip and anchored around 6pm. There was so much phospherence in the water. Saw five monkeys and a pig on the beach and a man camping in a tent in the bushes. Wind gusted very strongly through the night.
Friday 4 Feb
Left at 6.30am – it was just light. Had a good sail in the morning but by afternoon the wind had dropped off and we motored the rest of the way to Koh Muk arriving at 3.30pm. Went to our little restaurant on the hill for dinner. As the tide starting coming in small waves started breaking on the beach so left just on dark while we could still see the waves.
Well we have almost brought you up to date. We are at the stage where we need to do some serious cruising again. Heading up to the Burmese border and then out to the islands next week and trying to decide what we will do this year. The Eastern Malaysian rally is looking good at the moment. Quite a few boats are heading up through the Red Sea at the moment but that is something which is off our agenda. Anyway hope you all came through the cyclone ok. The weather here is coming good at last.
Take care
Dell and Peter
May the wind be always at your back
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