WEEK 10 -Puerto del Sol Resort & back again

Saturday 10 March - Puerto del Sol Resort
We walked the 4km to Concepcion Town along a dusty old road. We visited the Pier House and were shown all their lovely rooms. They had a lot of furniture made out of lacquered drift wood and bits of trees etc - very effective. Even the 'fish' behind the bar was driftwood and the art was done by the Swedish owner's father. We then had lunch at a local restaurant and the vegetable curry was one of the best meals so far. We saw a waterfall and then walked back. Along the way we saw some tiny piglets which were just a few days old. We had a drink at the bar (to pay for the mooring!) then sundowners on Braveheart.

Sunday 11 March - Puerto Del Sol - Coron town
11°59.780N / 120°11.776E
We dropped the mooring at 8.15 and headed past lots of islands - its almost like being in fjiords - past heaps of pearl farms and then up the channel to Coron Town. Some of the islands we passed we will come back to but for now we need some supplies and money - the first ATM we have come to in the Philippines! Anchored at 1.20 - at least we anchored four times but that is another story!! Explored the town which is a reasonable size but there is no supermarket and it is more expensive than El Nido. They just have sari sari stores some of which you have to stand at the counter and tell them what you want. Went out to dinner at the mermaid restaurant on the water which belongs to Mike's (Puerto del Sol) daughter. A really nice meal. Cilantro found themselves too close to some bangkas so they reanchored in the dark.
Miles: 18 TTT: 1104

Tuesday 13 March - Coron Town
Went to the market, got the diesel and had haircuts - $3.25 and they are great haircuts. Met Gunther and Maria off Mana Mana and had dinner with them. At the top of the hill in Coron is a big cross which is lit at night and looks really good. On a smaller hill Coron is spelt out like hollywood!!

Wednesday 14 March - Coron Town
Happy Birthday Brian
Spent some time shopping then had lunch at the Coron Bistro where we met a lovely Canadian lady and another bloke who had been at Concepcion Town when we had been there who told us they have guards on islands as it is easy for people to go ashore and claim and register the land then it takes years in the courts and the locals don't have the money to fight it - don't know if thats true but there certainly seems to be something going on with the land up here. Cilantro moved around the corner out of the wind. We had a black and white banded sea snake sunning itself on the back transom -a most unwelcome visitor!!

Thursday 15 March - Coron Town - Puerto Del Sol
About 8am our anchor dragged and we were going out backwards at a great rate of knots so upanchored in the wind and went around the corner to put Bob on board and then we all headed to Puerto del Sol in 25 - 30kn winds where we all picked up a mooring again.
Miles: 19 TTT: 1123

Friday 16 March - Puerto del Sol
Took the dinghies up the river late in the afternoon. Interesting trip and went as far as we could and there was a mob of workers up there had been cutting bamboo and were having their knock off drinks - they offered us some San Miguel gin! We declined. On the way back in the dark we hit a net which stopped us instantly. Bob's nose went down and we stopped!! The skipper had to cut the net off the prop. Felt pretty bad for the fisherman.
All the best
D&P

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WEEK 9 –Corong Corong to Busuanga Island

Saturday 3 March – Corong Corong
Boring boat day –Peter went to the early market. We all went out to dinner at 5.30 and had our order taken by a young boy of about 10. After that we went to a bar which was supposed to have live music from 7.30 but it didn’t start till 8.30 and yachties’ midnight (9pm) was looming so we caught a trike back to the yachts. Two young Lads (one of whom was Jennell) were keen to help us put Bob in the water so we told them they could come out to the boat tomorrow. I had mistakenly thought that they were kids off the little fishing canoes.

Sunday 4 March – Corong Corong
We didn’t go ashore till 3ish and here was Jennell waiting for us. His little mate had to go fishing with his dad. We went to town and back then went ashore again meaning to walk around the beach but there was little Jennell again so we got him to take us to his Dad to ask permission for him to come out to the boat. He took us to the old thatched hut which was on quite a lean built right on the beach. The hut had three small rooms next to each other and a family lived in each room. Jennell had 2 sisters and 2 brothers with the oldest sister (18) living in Cebu (a long way away). The youngest sister was 4 and Jennell is 12. His father was happy for him to come out so we took him to the boat and showed him around and explained how everything worked. Turned out the kids in the canoes came from the other end of the beach and weren’t his friends. When it came time to go ashore he wanted to start the motor and it took all his strength to do it then we let him drive Bob. He had obviously been watching the skipper on the way out as he knew what to do and was a natural. He took us all the way back in no worries at all. We gave him some pencils and books and walked with him back to his house and said hullo to his Mum. As we were leaving he came racing back and gave us three lovely shells. We then had sundowners on Braveheart where Judy had the smoker going trying to make ham – didn’t turn out too badly!

Monday 5 March – Corong Corong – Diapila Bay
11°24.513N / 119°28.548
We went to shore and Jennell met us so we gave him a photo of himself driving Bob – he has a gorgeous big smile. Jennel’s father passed us just after 7 after being out the whole night fishing. We upanchored at 10 and found we had a hessian bag on the anchor. By the time we had examined and exclaimed over it we had drifted to shore in 3.5m so a quick about turn and on our way. As we left the tip of Palawan a pigeon circled around and tried to land in the cockpit then thought better of it and headed for land. Motor sailed the long way round to Diapila Bay and once again the wind howled all night – not conducive to a good night’s sleep!
Miles: 24 TTT: 1015

Tuesday 6 March – Diapila Bay - Linapacan Isle, NW Bay
11°27.695N / 119°47.015
We left at 7 and had a very slow trip beating into the winds and he waves and we suspect the current. It wasn’t terribly rough or anything just very slow under motor doing 2000 revs and averaging 3.5 knots. Copped a few waves over the top and did a bit of dodging! We arrived at NW Bay around 1 – a very deep bay with reef all round and of course as soon as we went in there our depth sounder stopped working. We passed two rafts about a mile apart with lots of buoys between. We wondered if they were pearls. Cilantro headed down one bay and found 10m and we followed Braveheart past the town and found 19m. The vegetation on the island has changed. More shrubby than jungle. Had such a calm night you wouldn’t have known you were on a boat – a beautiful calm night.
Miles: 23 TTT: 1038

Wednesday 7 March – Linapacan – nr Coral Bay
11°58.925N / 119°53.026E
We left at 7 and followed Cilantro out and conditions were really good for sailing so up went the sails and the motor went off! A real sail at last. Came in to Coral Bay but was a bit blustery so we headed up to another island with a lovely sandspit beach and coconut palms. We anchored just before the reef and Chris went ashore. He was met by a security guard (dayshift) who was there to make sure no one landed on the island. We figured he must have been pretty scary as Chris didn’t even notice the three dogs there! The security guard left late in the afternoon with his gun slung across his shoulder! And the night shift came in with his gun slung across his shoulder. It was an idyllic picture with a full moon above the tropical island. The water was just like glass – just gorgeous
Miles: 38 TTT: 1076

Thursday 8 March – Coral Bay, Poppototan Island
Stuart and Jean have a wonderful holiday
11°59.542N / 119°51.452E
We came back down to Coral Bay and anchored off the resort. The anchor chain got trapped in the anchor pipe which necessitated the skipper pulling the whole winch off to free it – took quite a while. We then joined the others ashore. The reef here belongs to the resort so they have protected it so it hasn’t been dynamited or cyanided. The fishermen cyanide the fish so they can catch them alive. The Koreans pay more for live ones. It is 2,800 pesos pp to stay here which includes 3 meals a day - $67 each – not bad value. But the beers are $2 each instead of 50C! We went for a snorkel and were surprised at how many and varied the fish life was. The coral was pretty good and had quite a bit of colour. Went to the resort for dinner – very nice smorgasbord – three courses $12 each. Monica and Olf (Swedish) have been there for seven years and they are the owners. Their website is www.coralbay.ph
Miles: 2 TTT: 1078

Friday 9 March – Coral Bay – Puerto Del Sol Resort, Busuanga Island
12°01.478N / 119°58.988E
When we arrived at the little inlet a boat came out and put us all on moorings. They moved a big local boat to fit us in. The irony of it is it is shallow enough to anchor here – 8m! Came past heaps of pearl farms – long lines of floats. We went ashore, past the pool and found Mike the owner in the restaurant. Seemed if we had a beer or a meal we wouldn’t have to pay a mooring fee and we were happy to oblige. Mike was a fountain of information. His resort has only been there four years. We went across the bay to the ‘lighthouse’ – strange building on top of a hill. The owner showed us all around and proudly showed us all the rooms. It has been built in two seasons and parts were still under construction but was open for business. It has the most stunning views and probably the best place ever to watch a sunset and the Chilean red wine was also very nice! We went back to Mike’s resort in the dark and had dinner on the terrace overlooking the pool – lovely. While there is no beach here there is an emphasis on diving. There are quite a few wrecks of Japanese ships sunk on 24th September 1944. www.puertodelsolresort.com
Miles: 8 TTT: 1086

We have been out of phone and internet range for a little while. We are in what is known as the Calamanian Group of Islands. It is really hard to picture the activity which went on here during the Second World War – it is such a peaceful place but there is much evidence of the war under the water here and a few relics in some of the bars etc. Anyway we really miss you all.
Take care
Dell and Peter

WEEK 8 –Corong Corong

Saturday 25 Feb – Corong Corong
Went early to the big market (held Sats & Weds) and bought some pork and fruit and veg. The crew couldn’t walk through the meat section as it was all pigs heads and legs and horrible things! Braveheart and Cilantro went to town to try to organise us a tour while we tried to get our fridge/freezer working again, which we did eventually – yay! We joined the others in town and they had found us a tour. All the tours and prices are fixed by the Government and all the tours are Tour A, B, C & D but we wanted to do a couple of places from both A and B. Braveheart found Servant Tours who were willing to do what we wanted so we had a “private tour”. If you were staying here for any length of time (recommended) you would probably do them all. We checked out the boat – named Servant and paid our money - $16 per head including lunch! Found a local eating place and got a meal in a plastic bag (takeaway) and came back to the boat.

Sunday 26 Feb – Corong corong
A perfectly calm day for our tour. We caught a trike to town and piled on our boat with three lovely male crew and headed to Minaloc Island and the Secret Beach. This can only be entered in calm conditions so we swam through a hole in the rock and entered a “hong” – really lovely with towering very jagged cliffs. Then we went to a little beach where our lovely crew cooked us a scrumptious lunch(barbequed fish and chicken and rice,veges and fruit) and then we went past the shrine but didn’t go ashore. It was a house and church etc built by a politician who didn’t get re-elected and he ran out of money(!) and gave it up so now it doesn’t even have a caretaker. Then we went to Big Lagoon which was very shallow and just wide enough for two bangkas to pass (in and out) and we circled around the lagoon and went out – very beautiful. In the lagoon is an anchored platform (small) which is used for guests of the resort to have a special dinner (big enough for a small table). The resort is around $250 a night. We anchored outside the lagoon and had a snorkel and then went around to small lagoon and anchored inside it. We swam through the rock into another lagoon then Chris and I swam further in to see what was around the corner. We sat on a rock contemplating if it was worth swimming to the end when our guide Nel joined us and pointed out a small cave on the opposite side so we swam over and went in and found an underwater rock to sit on in the centre of the cave. There was an opening in the top and Nel told us the swiftlets used to live in there and 3grms of birds nest fetched 6,000 pesos but in 2000 when all the tourists started to come the birds moved somewhere else. It was a very special feeling being the only ones in there. Apparently in the mornings when Tour A comes in it is crowded (best to do the tours in reverse!). We returned at 4pm after a great day out.

Monday 27 Feb – Corong Corong
Well how lucky were we yesterday. Today is windy so don’t really want to leave the boats – quiet boat day.

Tuesday 28 Feb – Corong Corong
Very bored so took Bob around the point intending to go to a beach but there was a bit of a swell on the beach so we went to town instead. As we were walking in the crew stopped to take a photo which was really provident as a coconut fell and landed two metres to the left and behind the skipper! Round about where I would have been!! People walk along there all the time! We had lunch and got some supplies then adjourned to Braveheart to discuss the next move. There are now eight yachts in the bay.

Wednesday 29 Feb – Corong Corong – Diapila Bay
11°24.503N / 119°28.543E
Went to the market at 7 for supplies then had to hurry back to the boat as it had started to rain and we had left the hatch open. Upanchored at 9am and had quite a good sail to a little bay just before the top of Palawan. We had some gusts of wind on the way which heeled us right over. We arrived at 1pm having dodged the odd stick sticking out of nowhere and big buoys just beneath the surface in the bay. There were some huge fishing boats in the bay and we could hear a rooster crowing from the boats. The wind was really howling but the anchorage was ok. The wind howled all night – a horrible sound and music from the shore thumped all night so we didn’t get a lot of sleep!
Miles: 19 TTT: 971

Thursday 1 March – Diapila Bay – Corong Corong
11°10.068N / 119°23.605E
We left at 6.45 with the wind still howling but it was pretty rough and we weren’t making a lot of headway so we turned back and went all the way back toCorong Corong. We anchored at 11am. Very calm with sharp bullets of wind. Turned into another boat day just reading.
Miles: 20 TTT: 991

Friday – 2 March – Corong Corong
Read a book in the morning which was an awesome read called Facing the Frozen Ocean by Bear Grylls – couldn’t put it down. The skipper fixed the generator – he had broken the starter cord. We are having trouble with our house batteries not holding the charge and are afraid we need new ones – sourcing them may be a problem! We went ashore at 2.30 and took Judy off Braveheart and did some shopping then had a pleasant evening on board watching a movie.

And here we are sitting out a blow and will probably be here for a few more days yet waiting on the weather. Its one of those times when you are supposed to do all the maintenance on the boat but somehow never quite feel like doing!!

Hope you are all well. Stuart and Jean enjoy your trip and take time out to smell the roses (or the apples as the case may be!!).
Stay safe
A little less wind would be good.
Love
Dell and Peter

WEEK 7 –Limancong Town to Corong Corong

Saturday 18 Feb – Limancong Town
Went to town in the morning – the people are so welcoming and the children are gorgeous. Bought a few supplies and checked the place out. Watched some people playing mah jong. They asked me to play but I am not in their league. Chris met a Jehovah lass who promptly gave him a Watchtower booklet. Asked after beer in another store only to be told that he is muslim! Peter got 200 litres of diesel in the jerries ($1.30/litre). Judy and Chris came over to discuss our internet woes and had a sundowner. We can see lights in some of the houses – most don’t have electricity and some are lit by kerosene lanterns.

Sunday 19 Feb – Limancong Town
Went to town to go to the market at 7 but it turned out we were a bit early. Most of the little stores were open but the wet market only had a few small fish. We sorted out our internet and by then we were able to buy some pork at the market. It poured rain all day. Our water tank is full, the water jerries and buckets are full and the skipper is lamenting about all the water going to waste!

Monday 20 Feb – Limancong Town to Bario Pancol, Malampaya Sound
10°52.000N / 119°24.781E
Braveheart pulled their anchor up but had three other unattached local anchors, an octopus and nets and other varied bits and pieces of rubbish. It took them quite some time to clear it with Cilantro’s assistance. They proceeded to the fuel dock and when they got back at 11 the sun had come out so we upanchored and headed up the Strait. There were lots of school kids in little canoes crossing to their homes. We motored up Marampay Sound past islands and then fishtraps and sticks and dropped the anchor around 3.45 in 4.3m. We can see a big house on the hill and the road to Tay Tay behind. The village is at the foot of the hill. We watched a fisherman pull in his line which had nets attached to it at regular intervals. It seemed he was getting crabs and tying them up but they didn’t look very big.
Miles: 5 TTT: 627

Tuesday 21 Feb - Bario Pancol, Malampaya Sound
We went ashore and noticed something moving in a small bangka (local boat) and it turned out to be twos trussed pigs. The locals carried the pig away upside down on a poleover the shoulder of two men. We were directed up the street to the main road so we could go to TayTay which used to be the capital of Paliwan and is on the East Coast. We waited for the bus opposite a shelter where a man was giving haircuts. Eventually a small van stopped for us and the six of us piled in. It cost 50 pesos each ($1.30) and it took half an hour to get to Tay Tay. The scenery was interesting as there were lots of rice paddies. Men were tilling the paddies with small ploughs pulled by water buffalo. It was a cement road to the edge of our village and then it was dirt all the way. We got dropped at the bus station then caught a trike to Tay Tay town. We walked around the waterfront to the Spanish fort built in 1667 and sat in the little church in the centre of the fort. We then had a tasty lunch at Penn’s restaurant, did some shopping in the little stores and then back to the bus station where they seemed to be waiting for us and piled us into the van and we were back by 2.30 – a great adventure and then sundowners on Braveheart.

Wednesday 22 Feb – Bario Pancol – Largenn Island
11°04.767N / 119°23.913E
The clouds over the hills came down to met the smoke from the cooking fires. We left at 7am and followed our track back out past the sticks and fishtraps. Amost ran over one marked by a tiny bit of white float – with a long rope attached! Passed Liminacong Town and the skipper caught a small mackerel. Fish for dinner! Then we came around into Bacuit Bay which is beautiful – full of limestone karsts a little similar to Thailand. We anchored in a small bay on Largenn Island and took Bob to another island about 1k away and went into Cathedral Cave. We were lucky and caught it between tour boats so motored in and had a look. It is a small cave but the walls tower above you and it really does look like a cathedral. As the tour boats with outriggers are all a bit big their guests have to swim in. We had a barbeque on the beach to finish the day and ate the fish we had all caught and some pretty good salads followed by a spud cooked in the coals. What a great day.
Miles: 26 TTT: 939

Thursday 23 Feb – Largenn Island – Corong Corong Town
Wow – waking up to perfectly calm water with huge cliffs towering above. Beautiful spot. Motor sailed across the bay to the Lagoons where we were hoping to anchor but it was gusting on to a lee rock shore and it was way too deep for us to anchor. We headed to Corong Corong in blustery conditions and anchored at 11.50 in 11m. This is a bit like Phi Phi Don in Thailand must have been 20 years ago with El Nido town a short 20 min walk across to a bay on the opposite side of the headland. There is a little village of atap huts ashore here with a few resorts further round the bay and lots of bangkas anchored on shore. In the afternoon we walked across to El Nido which is the laid back tourist town and after checking the place out had dinner and then walked back to Corong Corong.
Miles: 13 TTT: 952

Friday 24 Feb – Corong Corong
We got up early and went to the market. They didn’t have much there but we managed to get two sweetlip fish. Had a boat day and Braveheart joined us for sundowners while Cilantro went to town for dinner.

Well we have finally arrived at the good part of the trip and it is a pretty amazing part of the world and we would highly recommend it if you are looking for somewhere different to go – Katie! By the way check out the new links on the right hand side. You may see someone you know!

Anyway, hope you are all good. Missing everyone - love to Rosie too
Much love
Dell and Peter

WEEK 6 –Oyster Inlet, Ulugan Bay to Limancong Town, Malampaya Sound

Saturday 11 Feb – Oyster Inlet, Ulugan Bay
Decided to stay another day hoping the swell settles as our next anchorage doesn’t offer a lot of protection. Braveheart went on ahead and said the swell wasn’t too bad but it was 15kn on the nose and getting stronger. Quiet boat day.

Sunday 12 Feb - Oyster Inlet – St Paul’s Bay
10°15.200N / 118°56.737E
Left at 6.30 in total stillness and had no trouble pulling our anchor up. Motor sailed winds 15-20kn on the nose – moderate to rough seas. Went into the anchorage off Sabang where the subterranean river is but it was too rough and swelly to put our dinghy in so went across the bay to where Braveheart was anchored and anchored at 11.20 in sand in 8.5m
Miles: 21 TTT: 600

Monday 13 Feb – St Paul’s Bay
We all went onto Braveheart and we motored back to Sabang Bay. It is the first time we have been on a moving cataraman and it was a strange feeling – huge amount of space though. We anchored off Sabang again in a huge swell and the boys put the dinghy in hoping to find somewhere to go ashore but they couldn’t get close – reef in places and surf breaking on the beach so we motored back again and reanchored Braveheart next to Cilantro and Pacific Express. Quiet afternoon reading. We have joined the 8am morning sked on the HF radio of other boats up here.

Tuesday 14 Feb – St Paul’s Bay – Secret Paradise, Mayday Bay
10°26.976N / 119°05.386E
Were going to leave but it is raining and overcast which means we wouldn’t be able to see the reef at the other end. Tim off Rubicon Star told us on the sked this morning that other yachts had anchored at Sabang then taken their dinghies closer to shore and anchored them and then swam ashore! We decided that was way too dedicated for us. We will try to get a jeepney back when we get to Puerta Princessa. We left at 10am and motored in reasonably calm seas and came to Secret Paradise recommended by Rubicon Star. And paradise it is. A horseshoe shaped bay with reef around the edges with mountains rising all around with thick jungle and little huts dotted along the beach. Little boys on their rafts fishing. We anchored in 16m as we could see reef up ahead and it was difficult to make out where it started in the light we had. It poured rain – we could hear it coming across the trees and then across the water. Caught quite a bit of water for our water tank. At night there were so many stars and we could hear people singing.
Miles: 19 TTT: 619

Wednesday 15 Feb – Secret Paradise, Mayda Bay
We could see little boys fishing off their little rafts. Chris off Braveheart went up the mast and the little boys were very interested in that. A boat takes all the school children across the point to a bigger village in the next bay and collects them again in the afternoon. We had a look at the reef which was very shallow and then went through the channel to the beach. We were greeted by a lady washing their catch of fish – fish about 6 inches long. They had the smallest hut on the beach but were very proud of it. They had five children – three at school. John the husband took us to see his farm where he grew casava and then he presented us with a big bag of casava between us. casava looks like a yam and tastes like a potoato and takes 13 months to grow. John’s wife gave us a lesson in how to cook it then they went next door to get us a cooked one so we could taste it. She apologised for having no chairs for us to sit on. They really didn’t have a lot of anything but they were very proud of what they did have. There were 15 families living in the village and they each have two boats each though one of John’s was in need of a new motor. They only get paid 60 pesos ($1.50) for 1kilo of dried fish so it would be a long time to replace it. There is a boat comes down from Port Barton once a week to buy the fish off them. If they have an emergency they walk over the mountain to Port Barton – a hard walk. In the afternoon we took them in some gifts including a machete and John really thought that God was great! After that we all went to Braveheart and played Texas Holdem and Sandra turned out to be a real card sharp!!!

Thursday 16 Feb –The Real Secret Paradise
10°27.710N 119°05.248E
We left at 9.15 having realised that this was not the bay Rubicon Star recommended but we were very happy for the mistake as we really enjoyed the visit with the villagers. We motored around to the next bay to the real Secret Paradise Resort. The resort which had six cabins and a restaurant was owned by an Englishman named Mark. It has taken him six years to get it up and running and three of the cabins have only been completed this year. The only way in is by boat and the internet and phone are intermittent so he is doing well to have a full house. We went in to see bout getting some dinner but they thought we had come for lunch so we had lunch then went back for dinner!
Miles: 3 TTT: 622

Friday 17 Feb – Secret Paradise Resort – Limancong Town
11°00.724N / 119°18.443E
We had intended to go to Port Barton but we knew bad weather (thanks for your help Debbie) was coming so we decided to go to Malampaya Sound where we could tuck in and have lots of places to explore out of the weather. We left at 7.30and it rained all the way. We got hit by one 30 knot squall which called for a quick reefing of the headsail – an exhilarating moment! It was actually pretty chilly as well calling for the crew to don her jacket! The skipper is a little more hardy! (or silly!!). We were going to go into the typhoon refuge but it was a bit small for three boats and as there wasn’t a typhoon coming we tried a few other handy bays but they were all a bit deep so we ended up anchored off Limancong Town which is a rather busy little port. Lots of little houses/huts, pigpens, roosters crowing etc. Anchored off the town at 4.45
Miles: 47 TTT: 669

All going well. Are now getting up to where more travellers venture so hopefully our phone and internet coverage will improve. We can see the karsts from where we are anchored and it all looks beautiful. A wonderful surprise has been the Filippino people – forever smiling and so friendly and helpful.

Photos have now been added back to week 3

Take care all – special prayers for special people – you know who you are.

Dell and Peter

WEEK 5 -Eran Bay to Oyster Inlet, Ulugan Bay

Saturday 4 Feb - Eran Bay - Double Island
09°20.893N / 118°05.601E
At 2.30am the swell started coming around the reef (it was a falling tide) and we started rolling a bit. It wasn't too bad though especially given the size of the swell outside. A couple of fishermen in a small boat came close and waved and said hullo. There were quite a few boats around but they stayed away. We left at 8am and went out into the biggest swell - no one has mentioned the swell before and we didn't think it would be like this - uncomfortable. A fishing boat passed in front of us and waved. We headed for Quezon town but the swell was huge and we suddenly went from 20m to 5m so we did a quick about turn and got out of there. The skipper hooked a huge fish just as we turned away and the fish leapt out of the water and he was reeling it in when it broke the 50lb line. This area has not been surveyed on our charts so it really is feeling our way. We headed for some islands nearby and the depths were all over the place. Braveheart went in and tried one of the islands but it was too deep and rolly. Cilantro led the way to the next island but we were blocked off by reef so they decided to go between the islands (very slowly). The crew wasn't too keen to follow but we all went. We went down to 0.8m under the keel and missed a bommie by about 2 foot. Heart attack material really. When I was up the front watching for reef I smelt smoke and then we noticed smoke coming from Cilantro's exhaust. They checked everything and concluded they had something round their prop. Anyway we headed down the outside of the island into the swell again until we got past the island and all the reef with huge waves breaking on it. Then we turned in and went past heaps of sticks, huge fish contraptions and fish nets and we could see the reef all around the outside. Went around behind the island and dropped the anchor at 4.40 (so much for an easy day!) just in front of a dozen little floating huts and behind the fish nets. The island is gorgeous - all coconut palms and beautiful with huge surf breaking over the reef. We were so relieved to find this place as it was starting to look like we would have to do an over nighter! The fishermen are really friendly so I think we will be fine.
Miles: 38 TTT: 501

Sunday 5 February - Double Island
We decided to be kind to ourselves and stay another day. The surf is not breaking as hard on the reef today. The island is absolutely beautiful covered in coconut palms. We spent the day aboard and at 3.45 we went ashore with Cilantro. We approached the big house made out of thatched rattan with a thick thatched roof - very solidly built. Six dogs came down to greet us which was a bit disconcerting. We met Jocelyn who invited us to the house and we sat outside beside the kitchen (separate to the house). Jocelyn has been the caretaker for seven years for Mr Jones who owns the island. Mr Jones is Swiss apparently. Jocelyn's mother and her two sons Rodney (8) and Jerrick were there and three of her daughters are in Puerta Princessa and the fourth daughter (23) lives on the mainland with her two children. Jocelyn is 42. We chatted for a while laughing as she tried to teach us a few Filippino words. Then we walked around the island accompanied by Rodney. The island is called Double Island as there is a sandspit across to another island. There were about six huts over there but we didn't want to intrude so just walked around the one. It was great being able to go in and communicate. We then all went to Braveheart to strategise about tomorrow which will be a long haul.

Monday 6 February - Double Island - Fish Bay
09°58.682N / 118°39.627E
We left at first light at 6am - it was a low tide and we followed our track out on the chart plotter. We had gone out and were in 15m when Braveheart called up to say they were in 15m and the skipper went below to talk on the radio when next thing we were in 5m and dropping! Absolutely heartstopping not knowing which way to go to find more water. The skipper told me later we had gone down to 0.5m under the keel. The charts were a bit out!! Anyway we headed further away from the land and went way out and around. There was still a bit of a swell but nothing like the previous days. And as the day wore on it became more settled and wasn't too bad. We came into Fish Bay around 3.50 and could clearly see the bits of reef and dropped anchor in 5.3m. We were able to tell Braveheart and Cilantro where the reef was when they came in 30 and 40 mins later. Its amazing what a difference that short time makes to being able to see the reef. The bay is gorgeous. Crystal clear green water, white beach, coconut plantation in front and village to the side. Saw a man leading a water buffalo along the beach pulling a bamboo sled thing with a little daschound walking in front. And then four little kids riding a water buffalo along the beach and two little kids with a stick not quite game enough to whack it. J But they did whack it and it went bush and they all disappeared and reappeared shortly after with two kids on its back and another kid leading it. They tied it up in the grass and headed back up the beach. A beautiful spot.
Miles: 54 TTT: 555

Tuesday 7 February - Fish Bay
Had a quiet start to the day then took the bathoscope out in Bob to see if the reef was any good. Lots of weed and not so good coral. At 2.30 we headed for shore and met Jacob and Carla off the other yacht in the bay - Lotus - who said they had organised a jeepney to Puerta Princessa tomorrow and did we want to go. They also asked if we had a spare propeller for their outboard as someone stole the prop off their motor!! We did as it happened. We all went to shore and met Carmalita who decided to give us a tour of the village. We saw the site where an Italian bloke is going to build a medical clinic, the open air church and the school which had 4 - 5 classrooms. We visited the smaller kids and they were very excited. The Govt has given all the villagers 20m x 30m blocks of land and their huts flow up the hill. Our guide then took us to the Vice-Mayors house which is being turned into a bit of a resort. Here we found a small zoo with a crocodile, rabbits, macaque monkeys and a huge snake. We then walked around the beautiful beach and back again. At the moment we have just seen a beautiful sunset and all the smoke rising from the village fires and it is so calm and lovely. (but lots of sand flies, all of us got bitten and are trying hard not to scratch)

Wednesday 8 February - Fish Bay
We left at 8am in the jeepney which is like an elongated troop carrier with roll up clears at the sides and very brightly coloured. Carmalita joined us for the trip which took 1 ½ hours. We found Puerta Princessa to be interesting - lots of traffic all driving on the right hand side of the road. Lots of motor bikes with kind of side cars with a roof over the lot. Carmalita took us to a Filippino restaurant for our first Filippino meal which was very nice. They eat a lot of pork. We then went to the Yacht Club to check it out and met an eccentric gentleman - a pom who had been there 20 years. He had a bell on the table and when he wanted another drink or cigarettes he rang it and a lovely lass would appear with it. We want one of those bells! Had a drink with him and then went to the local market for fruit, veges and eggs and then to the supermarket which we hadn't realised was a long way back into town. We got the necessities and we cant wait to go back with some more time to do some fun shopping. As we headed back it started to rain so we were rolling and unrolling the window clears all the way back! A good day out and it cost us 4,000 pesos which was around $25 per couple.

Thursday 9 February - Fish Bay
Had a quiet day then Braveheart and we headed into the local school to take some books and pens in for them. We then had a meeting on Cilantro to exchange information with Lotus who was heading south.

Friday 10 February - Fish Bay - Oyster Inlet, Ulugan Harbour
Happy Birthday Patrick
10°04.279N / 118°45.225E
We left at 8am for an easy day short trip to Ulugan Harbour. The seas were very short and very swelly and extremely uncomfortable. Braveheart had shot ahead and were anchored so we very carefully headed for them as we couldn't see the reef through the not so clear water. We decided it was a bit too swelly there for us so followed a channel around the back. Our depth sounder is playing up so Cilantro took the lead but we soon found ourselves in shallow water with the odd bommy around. We tried anchoring in 13m but it was on reef so we retreated and headed for Oyster Inlet. There are lots of fish farms around so we anchored in 17m and went back to 6m. The depths are weird so we are hoping we are not over coral - we think (hope) its mud. The skipper caught a few small rock cod - too small - what are they living in down there! Anyway it is like amill pond in here and really good after a trying day. People keep telling us it gets better from here up - we hope they are right. No phone coverage here either.
Miles: 24 TTT: 579

Carol, hope your shoulder is on the mend. Anyway love to all. The skipper is still having fun, the crew is hoping it gets better!!

Missing everyone

Dell and Peter

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WEEK 4 -Ambong to Eran Bay Philippines

Saturday 28 January - Ambong - Agal Bay, Sabah
06°49.623N / 116°39.407E
We left the beautiful anchorage of Ambong at 7am and headed out into a swelly uncomfortable sea and motor sailed for a couple of hours and then we got some wind and managed to sail for around three hours which was brilliant as we haven't sailed for so long. We hit 8 knots at one point and did really well. We followed our chart plotter into a little bay with little huts and houses dotted around. It was quite a comfortable anchorage in 4m on good sand. One of the locals came out and said hullo to Cilantro. Around 2am the wind backed around and came from the wrong direction. We stayed bow on to it and just had a bit of rocking which was ok.
Miles: 40 TTT: 257

Sunday 29 January - Agal Bay to Pulau Balambangang, Sabah
07°16.820N / 116°59.714E
At around 6.20am we went side on to the swell so upanchored at 6.30 and left. We passed two yachts anchored further out and they were really pounding up and down. The seas were a little sloppy but after we came out and around a big rock and started heading north we had a following sea - that's the one where its best not to look behind you! We motor sailed and passed the tip of Borneo and continued to Balambangan Island where the wind dropped off entirely so we dropped the mainsail while we were going along! We dodged a few blue bits (shallow) on the chart and a couple of rocks and came into another bay - a bit dry and scrubby looking. Nudged our way towards the shore looking for some water shallow enough to anchor in. Anchored in 12m on sand. A family in a boat (with rooster on board) came to all our boats to beg food.
Miles: 43 TTT: 300

Monday 30 January - Pulau Balambangan - Pasig Bay, Balabac Island, Philippines
07°50.500N / 116°59.228E
We left around 6.45 and followed our track out and headed between two islands. The reef came a long way out from the smaller island and the chart said "depths may be less than shown" - not reassuring when you hit 7m and have no idea if it is going to get any shallower. We put reef in the headsail and heeled right over which the crew hates. Turned the motor off and headed out into really rough water. It wasn't really pleasant for the first little while but then the waves settled a bit and Pacific Express loved it scooting along at 7 knots copping the odd wave over the top. It reminded us of coming up the Qld coast and how much we actually miss a good sail! We were approaching Balabac Island, Philippines and a ship was heading towards us. We thought we would head out and go around it but the AIS told us we would go within 600 ft of it so we headed for shore with the ship coming at us - pretty freaky feeling. Then the ship changed course 3 degrees to starboard and we knew we were ok. By this stage we had had enough so decided not to go to Balabac town where we think we can get simcards and we also suspected it would be an uncomfortable anchorage. So we headed to the south of the island around the point and out of the swell. There is an amazing looking lighthouse which we presume had Spanish influence. Anyway as we were coming towards the channel into the bay we were getting crazy depths 15m to 10m to 7m and they were all over the place. Cilantro took the lead and when we got in the channel the depths were constant 33m dropping slowly till we got in and dropped the anchor at 3.30pm in 6m over good sand. The island is south of Palawan Island which is the long skinny one at the bottom of the Philippines. Balabac is big and has mountains and lots of huts along the beaches and coconut palms. Lots of reef all around, lovely green coloured water and really really pretty. There is a stilt village in the next bay built entirely over the water. Looks really interesting. A beautiful place to anchor.
Miles: 46 TTT: 346

Tuesday 31 January - Pasig Bay, Balabac Island
Well a quiet day in paradise. Time to find out something about this country we have come to. Well it is an archipelago with over 7,000 islands and apparently the people are friendly and most speak English as a second language. Lots of reefs, snorkelling, diving - sounds good. We will be travelling up the west coast of Palawan Island. It is NE monsoon (dry season) so the East coast is windy and exposed. We somehow have to get to Puerto Princessa (the capital of Palawan) to check in but it is on the East Coast. We suspect we may have to leave the boats on the west coast and go by land to Puerto Princessa but first we have to get a bit closer. The Coast Watch apparently is sitting up in the lighthouse here and called up Braveheart and took their details.

Wednesday 1 February - Pasig Bay - Balabac Harbour
07°59.553N / 117°03.948E
Happy Birthday Mr Perry!
Well it absolutely poured rain last night with a lot of wind. Left at 6.30am and headed out to get a better angle of the wind. Had a slow sail up to Balabac Harbour. Balabac Island is beautiful and kind of has a Pacific Island feel to it. There were lots of plastic bags and rubbish floating just below the surface as we came up the coast - quite a junkyard in places. Anchored at Balabac town at 12. We just anchored in the middle of the bay in 5.3m. Braveheart and Cilantro went a bit further in into shallow water. The town looks a bit Indonesia-y. Took the dinghies in to the only tiny bit of beach we could see. Three tiny little girls were shyly smiling. There was a group of men using a pile driver. One was at the top guiding the weight on to the pile and the rest of them en were in a line pulling a rope back and forth to "work" the weight. Hard work. Lots of smiles and hullos and they told us to walk on the footpath round the houses to the road. We went to a few little stores till we found one that sold phone cards. The boys did the purchasing and put 100 pesos on the cards - this turned out to be $2.50!!! So wont go far! They had no internet so for now we are on the sail mail. The skipper asked if there were any restaurants and the girl said yes but best you eat at home! We walked through the town past the school which said "child friendly school" (lucky huh!!), past the big sign which warned about encephalitis up to the cemetery. People were saying welcome to Balabac and they were all very friendly. One end of town had the Jehovahs and Catholics and the other end the Muslims. We asked directions to get to the ruin on the hill and followed a track up to the remains of a Spanish fort. The view was amazing. Chatted to three young men up there then walked back through town and bought some fresh veges. Saw a sign for a cockfight which had been on 3 December - big money - 5,500 pesos prize! The little kids were laughing and talking - think they were a bit amazed to see us. This place is not on the tourist route and doesn't have backpackers. Went back to the boats and were waved off by the pile driver line and the three little girls. Expecting a rough night as we are on the exposed coast. The fishing boats are interesting having outriggers on both sides and even the ferry had outriggers. Sat and watched the lights in the small town. What a lovely place.
Miles: 26 TTT: 372

Thursday 2 February - Balabac Harbour - Canipan Bay
HAPPY 30TH BIRTHDAY BRETT
08°35.862N / 117°15.130E
Well the wind backed around the wrong direction and the swell dropped off and we had the best night's sleep in ages. All the roosters in the town were going off. We left 6.30ish and motored north with sea as calm as and no wind. Beautiful day, beautiful scenery. No idea where we are going. Caught a big barracuda but let it go very carefully - big teeth! The sea was calm but very swelly. We came into anchor but a fishing boat (Dianne) beat us to it so the room was limited as there was reef all around. We were behind a reef with surf breaking on it and behind us was another reef with surf breaking on it and a reef between us and the shore. Two more fishing boats came in and anchored either side of us. Cilantro and Braveheart anchored further out the back. The fishermen off Diane yelled hullo and asked where we were from and then just let us be. They are friendly but reserved. We were very sheltered from the NE swell.
Miles: 42 TTT: 414

Friday 3 February - Canipan Bay - Eran Bay
09°07.204N / 117°45.344E
The tide was out so we could see the reef all around us. Looked close! Left at 6.30 and motor sailed in big swell - uncomfortable. Had to go quite a way out as there are big shallow patches all the way along the coast. The weather turned overcast and we actually felt a bit cool! Caught a small tuna but let it go and then something big took the line and the last good lure!! Pretty boring day but it probably beats being in the office! A fishing boat - John Henry - came in close and travelled along side us for a while. They were just checking us out which was good as we got to check them out too and get some photos. Saw a seasnake or an eel. Passed a metal drum anchored in around 40m - it was about 6ft long and 1 ½ diameter and looked like a small canoe with a metal ring on top. Seas became a bit sloppy and it was overcast. Saw a big black fin and thought it was a shark and then it disappeared and the skipper was just saying thats the biggest shark I've ever seen when it resurfaced and turned out to be a big branch off a tree! We followed the channel in and could see reef on the left and right and some fishing nets and we anchored at 4.45 off a small village in 6.3m. Palawan is such a pretty island - quite mountainous and all the cloud has settled into the valleys so it looks like snow. Saw some fishing boats with long bits of bamboo with a net attached. Slightly swelly but ok.

Things are going well, though yesterday was a trial (you can read about that next week) but the one thing we hadn't realised and hadn't heard anyone speak of is the size of the swell out there. It is really not nice.

Love to all
Dell and Peter
PS to see where we are click the link to where we are - not the where we really are!

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WEEK 3 -Kota Kinabulu to Ambong

Saturday 21 January - Kota Kinabulu
Peter took Brett and Delphine into the resort for a good shower and left their packs on Braveheart in the marina. The water was quite calm at that time. Back at the boat we had beer and xmas cake even though it was only 1030. We all went ashore at 11 and put Brett and Delphine into a taxi to the airport and we were going to go to town but were a bit concerned about the weather so I stayed on board and Peter went to town to the market. As it turned out the weather was fine. We went ashore for a shower and had drinks on Braveheart before heading back out to the boat.

Sunday 22 January - Kota Kinabulu
Peter did the washing and I had a computer day then headed in for a shower. Peter had done several trips with the jerries to fill our water tank. We had a quiet evening on board and woke up at midnight when all the fireworks went off for Chinese New Year.

Monday 23 January - Kota Kinabulu to Pulau Gaya
06°00.102N / 116°02.191E
Went to town to get phone and internet cards for when we return and tracked down some vegemite. A lot of the shops were closed for Chinese New Year. Swapped a couple of books at the marina but they didn't have much. Still have heaps to read on board. Back to the boat and upanchored - we were really well dug in - and headed a couple of miles over to Pulau Gaya and chose a nice little bay and went in between what we thought was reef but turned out to be weed. We watched the monkeys on the beach and a bit later saw a pig so we took Bob in close to shore. The monkeys left but there were at least four big water monitors and the strangest looking pig - light brown with a really long snout and his ears quite a way back from his snout and with tusks. Its a lovely bay but it collects a lot of rubbish on the beach which seems to be what the animals are scavenging. Watched two men tie a couple of small logs together and then walk around the bay dragging them staying close to the shore and then they went around the point to a village. We figured it must be easier to go by water than to walk through the jungle.
Miles: 3 TTT: 185

Tuesday 24 January - Pulau Gaya
Spent another day here watching the monkeys and enjoying being away from the marina.

Wednesday 25 January - Pulau Gaya to Ambong
06°19.153N / 116°18.977E
We left at about 7.15 and motored out around the point into quite a swell and turned up heading north along the Borneo coast. The swell was a little uncomfortable and then the sea just got sloppy but as we got closer to Ambong it was improving. Ambong is a lovely sheltered bay and we went to the opposite side to where we normally go as it was really sheltered at this time of year and also very pretty. Cilantro also came across to join us. There are a few houses ashore and the people seem really friendly. A couple of blokes came out and wanted to swap a beer for a coconut but they settled for a cigarette each - the skipper rolled them one each and we didn't see them again. The skipper's cigarettes seem to have that affect on people!
Miles: 32 TTT: 217

Thursday 26 January - Ambong
Happy Australia Day
It rained all day and we really enjoyed just chilling out and reading. Braveheart came in around 5 so we three boats are all together again ready to head for the Philippines.

Friday 27 January - Ambong
Still a bit damp and more of the same. Did a bit of maintenance on the motor , winches and radios and a general clean up. We can get phone coverage here but no internet. Hoping to leave tomorrow - weather permitting!

Cheers
Dell and Peter

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WEEK 2 – Miri to Kota Kinabulu

Saturday 14 January – Miri – Kuala Belait Brunei
04°34.835N 114°11.337E
We had decided to leave at daybreak but when the skipper put the engine into gear there was a terrible grinding noise and he thought he musnt have aligned the prop correctly but after putting it into forward and reverse gears (while still tied to the jetty!) we decided it was probably just growth on the prop so we dropped the lines and off we went on a half tide and had half a metre under the keel. The seas were pretty sloppy but our two new crew members handled it really well. We arrived at Kuala Belait at 1.30 and anchored in the river opposite the town. As this was Brunei and we hadn’t checked in we stayed on board.
Miles: 35

Sunday 15 January – Kuala Belai – Jeffries Wall, Brunei
04°56.999N 114°a48.779E
We left at 6.50 am and had a good day of intermittent sailing and motor sailing and the seas had settled and it was a good trip. We caught a mackerel along the way which the skipper cooked up for a very tasty dinner. Anchored at Jeffries wall at 3.45
Miles: 43 Total This Trip: 78

Monday 16 January – Jeffries wall – Labuan
05°16.444N 115°14.318E
We left Jeffries at 7am and motored on a flat sea heading towards Labuan. We stopped off at Pulau Kereman – a lovely island for a swim. Brett copped a sting from something which appeared to be quite painful so we continued on to Labuan and anchored at 3.25 after two attempts.
Miles: 34 TTT: 112

Tuesday 17 January – Labuan
We checked into Labuan and out of Sarawak and then managed to find a minibus to take us on a tour of the island. We went to the War Memorial where the POWs from Sandakan are interred. As always, this cemetery was beautifully kept. We then went to a very interesting marine museum and then out to the chimney. This chimney is a bit of a mystery as no one knows who built it, when it was built or what it was for. No fire has ever been lit in it. It is however, where the coal mining used to be carried out on this island. We returned to town and did our duty free shopping and loaded the boat up and then caught another water taxi to town for dinner. Had Indian again and it was really very good.

Wednesday 18 January – Labuan – Pulau Tiga
05°43.243N 115°38.880E
We left at 6.45 and anchored in 4m of sand off the resort. This island was where the very first episode of Survivor was made. We went for a snorkel but it turned out to be huge seaweed plants so went back to the beach for a swim. The water was so clear. When the sandflies started swarming the skipper’s head we made a retreat to the boat and the skipper cooked up another great meal. Watched the monkeys on the beach.
Miles: 40`TTT: 152

Thursday 19 January – Pulau Tiga
In the morning we watched the monkeys and water monitors on the beach and then went ashore to walk to the mud volcanoes. We decided not to jump in the mud as it really didn’t look that appealing but it was extremely muddy and was bubbling up in places. We walked to Rocky Beach along the jungle track and then walked back again. There were monkeys playing both sides of the track and the skipper surprised a water monitor which made a hasty and noisy exit – not sure who got the bigger fright! We had a swim and went back to the boat and watched the monkeys and water monitors on the beach and the sun set over the sea. Such a beautiful spot.

Friday 20 January – Pulau Tiga – Kota Kinabulu
05°58.044N 116°03.219E
We left at 7.30 and motor sailed on flat seas to Kota Kinabulu and anchored off the marina at 2.15. It appears that once again there is no room at this marina for us. We caught a plastic bag on our first attempt at anchoring so reanchored. The skipper cooked up a slap up meal and we had a nice bottle of red to celebrate Brett and Delphine’s last night on board. We have really enjoyed their company.
Miles: 30 TTT: 182

WEEK 1 – back to the boat

Hullo all
We arrived back at the boat on Friday 6 January in the evening in the rain. Pacific Express was in excellent condition with just a touch of mould on the deck. We unpacked and fell into bed – it was a long trip back. Brett and Delphine flew into Kuching from their holiday in Cambodia. Kuching was even wetter than Miri was. Over the next couple of days we shopped and Peter did the engine mounts which turned out to be an all day job. We put the sails back up and the next day Peter changed the oil pressure sender unit on the motor and the fuel filters.

At 10am on Tuesday the 10th we flew to Mulu National Park and Brett and Delphine flew in at 12. Mulu is central Borneo and all jungle and caves. The caves were discovered around 1977 although of course the local tribes have always known about them. They have built extensive board walks through the jungle to the caves. It has an extensive cave system and boasts the largest and longest in the world. We did the 2pm tour of Lang and Deer Caves which were truly amazing. We were just about to go in to Lang Cave when we heard this almighty bang and the ground shook. We thought it was a huge tree hitting the ground but the guide thought it was a huge rock so we were quite pleased we hadn’t gone to the other cave first – gave us all quite a start!! We waited for the bat exodus towards evening but unfortunately it rained heavily so we didn’t get to see them. Wednesday we were taken up river in a long thin canoe boat with an outboard up the back which was rather exciting. We stopped at a village and then continued on to some more caves – one had no lights as they were out so it was torches only. Would have been fabulous with the lights on but was still pretty good. After seeing two more caves we had a swim in the rather “fresh” river. Then we went on our own jungle walk through a muddy path to a small waterfall at the river and saw giant beehives hanging off the cliff. That evening we went on a night walk but it poured rain just before we went so didn’t see much.

We got up early Thursday morning and went on the canopy treetop walk. This was about 500m long done in sections right up the top of the rainforest and boy some of those trees are hugely tall!!! It was two shoulder high ropes with netting down to two planks and only two people were allowed on each section at a time. It was great and so peaceful though I must say we did start out in trepidation. Delphine pointed out a green viper sitting on a tree. We packed up our gear and checked out the information centre and saw an interesting film on bats and have since become a fan! We arrived back at Miri at 4ish and introduced Delphine to Pacific Express and then went to town for dinner. We had been quite worried about the state of the sea as it had been pretty unsettled.

Friday the 13th (bad luck on two counts!!!) we were going nowhere so went to the market and did our final shop and then to the Banana Leaf restaurant for a fabulous Indian dinner.