The latest from Pacific Express‏

Hi all

Well the trip from Butterfly Bay to the mainland was a little hairy but we made it and the next place of interest was a little place called Montes Resort just south of Gloucester Island. Its a very laid back restaurant right on the beach with about eight cottages. Had a marvellous couple of days there. Then on to Bowen – we went around the point at Bowen and found that it actually had some beautiful beaches – we were quite amazed!! Had a lovely sail and then a sail we wont talk about getting to beautiful Horseshoe Bay at Magnetic Island. What a wonderful place! We had some great walks including one to where the gun placements for the second world war were and laughed when it said they had never been fired in anger but in absolute astonishment when an unannounced US boat came in to view. I actually popped home for a couple of days here and left Peter to care for the boat and catch a giant trevally while I was gone. Next was the Palm Islands and then into the Hinchinbrook Channel where we spent a few days. Early one morning heard some speed boats going at a great rate of knots and they were towing water skiers. Racing from Lucinda to Cardwell and back again – I guess with all the crocs around they had good reason to stay on their skis!!!

We got the news we had to go home for the funeral of my brother in law so put the boat into Hinchinbrook Marina which is lovely but as they have trouble getting permission to dredge it we had to wait for high tide to get the boat in and out. Little bit hairy (and totally ridiculous!). It was pouring rain for a few days before we left and there was a gale while we were away. Left the cushions out (soaked) and discovered a leak topside on the boat (we think it is the breather for the head!) – a lot of water came out of the sky.

We drove back in a huyundi getz with the two dogs. Drove all day in the rain and made Mackay well after dark only to find there was a mining expo on and the inns were full!!! We slept the night in the car outside a petrol station. Surprisingly we didn’t wake up till 7am! Stayed with a friend in Townsville who offered wonderful hospitality and then drove us to Cardwell and stayed the night with us.

We left the marina at 4.30pm on a high tide and stayed the night at Scraggy Point off Hinchinbrook Island and could see the crocodile eyes shining in the torchlight!

The Family Group of Islands were absolutely beautiful – rainforest. Stopped at Bowden Island for a few hours then on to Bedarra where their jetty is all destroyed presumably from the cyclone. Had a couple of days at Dunk Island – walked to the top of the hill for wonderful views. Got the news that my dear old Aunt had died. Not a good month!

We stopped at Kent Island which was absolutely beautiful – rowed around the edges and explored the island and the next day when Peter was fishing he caught a tiger shark (twice!). then the mummy and daddy tiger sharks turned up - made it a bit hairy going out in the tender after that (and definitely stopped the fishing!).

Headed to Fitzroy Island which had a beach of coral so sharp you couldn’t walk on it and was a building site building a new resort. Visited another yacht 200 odd metres away and were watching the dogs, Jack and Rosie howl and carry on as they could see us. Next thing we notice Jack on the duckboard at the back of the boat (how he jumped down without falling in we do not know) and no Rosie. Couldnt see her on the boat or in the water – next thing we see her dog paddling madly out the back of the boat we were on in amongst the tenders. She was exhausted – don’t know how long she was there! Swam 200 metres in the current (thank goodness no sharks!!). We don’t think she actually jumped in – think she got up on the solar panel and slipped. Anyway when we leave the boat now they have to be left downstairs – something they are not too keen on!

So here we are at Yorkeys Knob which is about 15km north of Cairns. Had wonderful hospitality here also from friends though the stories of pythons in the house, under the house and in the yard were a little alarming!! We hired a car and drove to Kuranda, Mareeba, Yungaburra, Gordonvale round the Atherton tablelands. This area is a definite must revisit and take a couple of weeks next time.

Have been here almost a week – of course strong wind warnings north and then the skipper slipped and hurt his hip. Had xrays yesterday and it seems to be bad internal bruising which apparently will turn up in about five weeks, meanwhile he should be able to walk ok in a week! By which time the strong wind warnings may have abated and we can do our final leg to Lizard Island. Meanwhile tonight is curry night at the club and tomorrow is roast night (again!)

Hope life is treating you all well.

Much Love

Dell and Peter

Kent Island and tiger sharks!!!‏

Just arrived back from the Island. Went a bit earlier in today! The sharks were basking in the sun this morning when a tinnie hit them. Peter said it made quite a bang so they seem to have been frightened off for the time being. Forgot to tell you, we got pulled up by the police yesterday. Luckily we were under motor as there was no wind when they seemed to come out of nowhere. They checked our rego and knew who we were and checked all out safety gear! Were very polite and pleasant. Said they would probably see us on Lizard Island. We noticed that one small power boat got sent back to shore!!

We will head out of here around 6 - 7 in the morning and head a bit further north. Either Russell or High Islands depending how far we get.

Whitsundays

Well Brampton was an experience – we found out the difference between a tinny and a zodiac tender – but at least it didn’t sink when we holed it on a big oyster laden rock. Not sure how that happened but there goes the resale value!!!! Patched it but it took 24 hours to glue so as we could no longer leave the boat (aside from swimming!!) we decided to leave Brampton and move on. Headed to Goldsmith Island which turned out to be another lovely little bolthole from yet another strong wind warning!! There was an island just off with a lovely little cottage, their own beach and beautifully manicured lawn. Obviously just a holiday thing but wow. We explored a couple of little beaches and saw a couple of little reef sharks up an inlet. Peter caught a large tuna which took quite a bit of landing (they are getting bigger!) The most amazing thing – could hear fish jumping at night and shone the torch and there were thousands of little longtoms jumping (like a garfish) out of the water everywhere. Never seen anything like it – kept us amused for ages.

Sat out the wind warning a night or two then left for Lindemann Island. The spot we had set out for didn’t look too promising but we went in anyway and it turned out be beautiful. It was probably the first anchorage that I felt really comfortable going in to but Peter wasn’t as comfortable. Anyway, after a re-anchor we ended up where we were both happy (wow!!). The next day we took our backpacks and headed for Mt Oldham. The island is a national park with good walking tracks. Made it to the top – wonderful views. On the way back decided to go to Gap Beach. Obviously not many people had walked down that track – was very Indiana Jonesy including a large boulder (on the side of the track in case you envisaged us being pursued down the path by said boulder!!). Anyway happily walking along in front of Peter when he suddenly grabs me and turns me back up the way we had come. Now I happen to know that there is only one reason why my husband would suddenly grab me like that – SNAKE. Well they probably heard me at the resort on the other side of the island and I haven’t even seen the thing yet! It actually was quite attractive – yellow belly with lovely iridescent blue on it – Peter claimed it was a tree snake (everyone knows that tree snakes are green – the colour of trees!!!!!). Anyway I magnimoniously let Peter take the lead after that and two more snakes crossed our path (obviously tree snakes because they were green!).

Left at 930 the next day to head for Hamilton Island to meet some friends. Went around Pe ntacost Island which was quite a sight – high cliffs. Had a bumpy(!) arrival into the marina berth (very windy and you never know exactly where your berth is!). Walked past a building site (building a new you beaut yacht club) past bins, mud, trucks, backhoes and no security to the shower/loo which is directly behind the bakery. Very unimpressed at $85 per night. However we realised the next day how cheap our stay really was. We had the run of the entire resort and it is so much more expensive than that to stay at the resort. We spent the day checking out the different pools and having wine beside them – jazz playing at one. Then met our friends at the top of the hill for sunset cocktails (more jazz) and then out for a marvellous meal – truly a great day. And they all drive golf buggies!! Really cool.

More strong winds coming in so headed for Cid Harbour and decided on the spur of the moment to walk to the highest peak on Whitsunday (which we had read about in a Stuart Buchanan book – neglected to read the fine print!). We followed pink tape and small cairns to stay on the trail. It was very jungle like – dappled light on dappled rock and dappled vines – all looking very snake like. We went up, up up following the tapes then down, down down (should we go on?!) then up, up, up – 430 odd metres – rocks, leaves, grass, jungle, more rocks – finally made it to the top – couldn’t breathe but there we were. Then we had to go back – down, down, down (is that a snake!!), up, up, up and down, down, down – couldn’t believe we actually went up there.

Monday 16 June – Sue’s birthday – sorry Sue – no coverage. You know I was thinking of you!

From there it was to Whitehaven Beach which looked very nice from the sea but when we got to shore it looked magnificent. Absolutely beautiful. Walked quite some way along it – had a quick dip and then sat and watched the tourist boats come and go and the seaplane land and take off. It was all happening here. And then they all disappeared and it was just the campers on shore and about 5 boats to spend the night.

From here it was a short sail to Catelan Bay on Border Island where we had our first snorkel. Took the tender to the beach and snorkelled from there. There were other people snorkelling too so it felt ok. Then we went to a place called Maureen’s Cove and Maureen will be really happy to know that it is a wonderful little cove and the snorkelling was wonderful. We managed to get on a buoy (advice from Bruce most appreciated!!). Of course from the boat there was a swim across a dark deep area to reach the snorkelling bit – that made the hairs on the back of your neck stand up!! Lots of lovely coral and heaps of fish. Stayed the night at Maureen’s.

This morning we headed back around to Manta Ray Bay and waited to get a buoy. It was a long (its not really but gee!) dark swim so we got the tender out and went closer in and tied to a tender buoy. The snorkelling was good but not as good as Maureen’s – and not a manta ray to be seen!

Currently on a buoy at Butterfly Bay and will spend the night here. Once again it was a long way to swim to the good stuff so got the snorkel gear and put our heads over the side of the tender and drifted all the way down. Great stuff and didn’t even get wet!!!

We will probably leave the lovely Whitsundays tomorrow (weather permitting). It’s a funny life this!! Miss you all heaps.

Love

Dell and Peter

Hi from Mackay - 5 June‏

Well folks, the benchmark in violent terrifying rocking in a swell was set at Hummocky Island just after my last missive to you. It was dark, wild weather. Two yachts up anchored and headed for Great Keppel in the middle of the night which we were tempted to do but it was so dark and stormy out there!!!! We left at 6.30 and after very rough (terrifying!) seas we anchored at Great Keppel in a lovely sheltered spot. Next day we set off and headed for the resort (5km each way) having thoughts of sitting on a deck overlooking the lovely white sand and aqua water scoffing a nice glass of wine. Reality was, the resort had closed six weeks earlier and it was all fenced off and starting to look quite derelict. The sand was white and the water beautifully aqua however. Saw a herd of goats (tiny babies, huge Billy goat) on the return trek. Should probably have lingered longer but it was onwards – elected not to go to Rosalind Bay marina as we didn’t really need anything (though running out of wine before reaching Mackay was not very clever).

It was a 6.15 start through rough seas – managed a good sail though – to reach a lovely little spot called Pearl Bay. Entering any of these places and marinas with which you are not familiar always makes you know that you are alive! The entry was through rocks on either side heading for a beach – a bit disconcerting but opened into a lovely little bay once inside. As it is part of the Shoalwater Bay training area any walking was contained to the beach but Peter caught rather a largish golden trevally here which kept him occupied for a little while. We spent a couple of very pleasant days here.

Left Pearl at 6 am wondering if we should just go a few miles up to the next lovely little spot or head for the Percys. We elected to head for the Percy Isles and the morning till 1pm was quite unpleasant (am I having fun yet!) but after that it settled down and we arrived at West Bay on Middle Percy around 3.30. Didnt realise we had reached it till we saw the A frame and coconut palms on the beach. The A frame contains all sorts of paraphanalia that boats have left as a memento of their visits. Collected some coconuts and had three lovely days here – interspersed with violent rocking in the swell but not as bad as the Hummocky (benchmark!). The Young Endeavour came in and anchored near us and the kids kept us well entertained watching them climb up the masts to tie up and let loosedthe sails. Very character building we thought!!!

Anyway strong wind warning was in and our anchorage was untenable so we left around 7.45 to make a run for Curlew Island – about 4 hours away. The wind was roaring, the waves were huge and once again it was terrifying!!! We put on our wet weather jackets but realised soon after that we should have put on full wet weather gear as we were soon soaked. We were lifejacketed and hooked on though. Were anchored in the lee of Curlew Island by 12.30. The wind still howled but we were safe and the boat was steady and it was lovely!!!! So here we sat out the strong winds. Checked the middle bilge and got an awful fright when found it was full of water (shades of sinking!!) but I hadn’t closed the hatch tight enough and we had had a lot of water over and that is where it ended up (that is what bilges are for – apparently!) We also lost the legs off our solar panels – washed away. Peter’s theory is don’t look back or to the sides and you cant see how big the waves are. Mine is just look at the floor and scream every now and then and it will all be alright!

Its lovely to have an island all to yourself but also a little eerie! Walking up the deserted beach and Peter recalls a movie where things come up out of the sand to grab you!!! I recalled it too. Was certainly a lovely time though.

Of course when we left Curlew Island the wind had dropped entirely and there wasn’t a breath so we motored from there to Mackay where we now sit in the marina. As we went past one of the big ships sitting outside Dalrymple Bay we heard our name being called on the radio and one of the chaps was obviously bored and just wanted to know if we were listening.

Have restocked the larder (and wine) and tomorrow hope to head for Brampton Island and this time I think it really will be short day sails.

Love and cheers

Dell and Peter

Scarborough to Cape Capricorn

Hi all

We left Scarborough Marina on Monday 5th May with fine seas playing Graeme Connors “I get a little further north each year”. We had our two doggies on board and the weather was so fine we motored all the way to Caloundra where we caught some good wind and had a lovely sail into Mooloolaba where we anchored in the river just off Underwater World. We had four wonderful days with our dogs which made it all the harder to say goodbye when Amy came to collect them on the Friday. It left a big gap on the boat and in our time.

We left Mooloolaba on the Saturday and spent the night at Double Island Point which despite all we had heard about it was a great place to be. Crossed the Wide Bay Bar on Mother’s day and headed for Garry’s Anchorage – a nice sail up. The following day it was through the Sandy Straits to Kingfisher Bay where we spent a couple of nights in not entirely pleasant weather. Our bush walk was in the rain soaking wet!! But we did it!

Bundaberg was the next port of call and we stayed in the Marina longer than we intended – seems to always be that way so we have decided to avoid the marina in future if we can. First there were light to no winds then there was a strong wind warning the morning we were going to go and as it was blowing a gale at 4am we decided that bed was a better option! Got out of the marina at 4pm the next day and anchored in the river for an early start.

Arose really early on Monday 19th ready to head off – checked the weather at 4am and the strong wind warning was still current though the wind didn’t seem to be as bad. Finally decided to go at 6am only to have a pilot boat say clear the river, there is a container ship coming down. That held us up another half an hour so didn’t actually get away till 6.30 and were heading for Pancake Creek about 12 hours away and not a place to be entered in the dark!

Started off having a lovely sail then about midday the winds died off altogether and we had to motor. They called off the strong wind warning at 3pm!!!!

Arrived at the entrance to Pancake Creek just before dark and were very gingerly making our way in when thank goodness for a boat called Windsong IV – she roared past us obviously done it many times before so we charged after her and pulled up just in front of her in the anchorage just as the light faded. When we woke up the next morning and saw where we were we went oh my goodness!!! A very narrow channel and thats about all when the tide is out. Anyway we only touched bottom once and glanced off one red beacon (and no Dell was not at the helm!!!)





Tried to find our way up to the Bustard Head lighthouse but had a bit of a problem till we realised that you head across the swamp to the holey jocks on the tree and bushbash for 20 metres or so and there is the track! Had a wonderful trek up and were greeted at the lighthouse by the acting caretakers and shown around. Certainly worth the trek up.

Left Pancake Creek on an incoming tide at 7am on Wednesday 21st – very gingerly I might add! The sea was like glass so we motor sailed all the way to Cape Capricorn. A big black dolphin played under our bow for a little while and as we had the self steering working we could both go forward to watch. Magic. Peter was also happy as after five strikes he managed to catch a rather large tuna. As we rounded Cape Capricorn the lighthouse called us up and wanted to know if we wanted to go up. Quite exciting getting a call from the lighthouse!!

Stayed the night in a little cove around from the lighthouse and went up there this morning. It looks absolutely desolate from the ocean and we thought they must have needed some company but there is a guest house or two up there and the people very kindly showed us round. The view was 360 degrees and amazing. We are currently anchored in another gorgeous little cove in the lee of Hummocky Island and tomorrow we head for Great Keppel which is something like 30 nm away so should be a nice sail.

Well that has brought you all up to date on our exploits. From here on in the sailing days should be a lot shorter between stops. And this is a great office to be working from!!
Cheers

Dell & Peter Osterhage
Pacific Express

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May 2009