Saturday 20 August – Kudat
We decided to go ashore for lunch and as we had put Bob on board Braveheart and Cilantro each collected one of us. We did some shopping in another market we found and then walked to the other end of town and found there was a whole different area of Kudat – we thought we had seen it all. There was a very interesting Chinese temple there with a huge statue of a very jolly monk and decorated with dragons with long talon fingers. The restaurant we found didn’t have beer but the food was really good then the proprietor volunteered to go get us some beer and came back shortly later with cold cans of Korean beer which was really nice of him. We took a circuitous route back with Braveheart buying a burglar alarm and more locks then back to the boats for an early start in the morning.
Sunday 21 August – Kudat – Kudat Bay
06°56.450N / 116°50.599E
Got up at 5am and as soon as it was light we all upanchored – at least we tried to but found we were stuck fast. We tried this way and that but to no avail. We couldn’t retrieve our anchor and chain. Braveheart and Cilantro reanchored and waited with us. Kudat is not exactly a tourist town and there are no scuba diving places around so we called Sgt George who told us the Marine police had none but the Fire Department had one – when we called him he could only dive for emergencies and he told us to call the World Wildlife Foundation. We called the only resort in Kudat and she put us on to Mr Irwan of the World Wildlife Foundation who said he would come have a look. He then rounded up his buddy and at 1.30 the boat tied us off so the anchor chain could go loose and they both dived in 14 metres. It seemed to take ages and when they surfaced they said it was caught on some machinery like a tractor. They had untangled the chain from the superstructure but the anchor had gone down a big hole and they couldn’t get it out and the visibility was about six inches. So they said they would come back and try again in the morning. Devastating news because though we had a spare anchor albeit a smaller one you cant get chain or anchors here. The skipper pulled all the chain in and a ferry went past and we bounced up and down and next thing we were dragging!!! The up and down motion had made the anchor come out of the hole! After the skipper had got the fishing net which had wrapped around it off we all went around to the other bay and anchored there. We called Mr Irwan and his mate who came round to where we were so we could pay him. Think we paid him too much but it was worth it. He had asked around the fishermen and apparently there is a sunken barge there and we had managed to drop our anchor down the hold of the barge. Couldnt have done that if we had tried!! Cilantro had got a rat on board when they took their dinghy in to get fuel. First they found a snake at the back of the boat and then the rat. They got rid of the snake with a boat hook and later in the evening we could hear sounds of “get it get it” with loud thumping noises and torch light going everywhere with advice coming from Braveheart of “grab it by the tail grab it by the tail” and shortly thereafter were advised that Basil the rat had jumped overboard!! Who wouldn’t!!!
Miles: 4 TTT: 2543
Monday 22 August – Kudat Bay – tip of Borneo
07°01.033N / 116°46.718E
We all upanchored at first light (again) and headed round to the tip. It was very windy and when we got to the tip we could see white water so we pulled in to the shore to wait for better weather. Two other boats came in to join us and it turned out they had had a shocking trip up with 3m seas and one had blown out his headsail. So we spent the day reading and enjoying an enforced down day.
Miles: 8 TTT: 2,551
Tuesday 23 August – Tip to Ambong – the trip from hell
06°18.486N / 116°18.075E
Once again we left just on light and went around the tip. The wind had appeared to have dropped but on rounding the tip – there it was on the nose. We managed to get our headsails out and make some way into the wind and the waves. We probably should have gone back but we kept hoping it would get better and after all the trouble we wanted to be on our way. We only averaged around 2 knots slamming through the waves and up and over 3 metre waves which would just stop the boat in its tracks. It was the most horrendous day and it was scary just looking at Braveheart and Cilantro go through it. We apparently looked just as bad. The skipper donned his life line and went forward and got the mainsail up with two reefs and that steadied us a bit and at times gave us a bit of assistance which let us do 3 knots! Braveheart pulled in to a little anchorage at around 5pm – doubt it would have been any good for monos so we had to keep going. We followed our track into the sheltered anchorage of Ambong at 10pm in the dark. For those who have never sailed in the dark it is a bit like driving without your headlights – you just hope there is nothing in front of you! It took us 16 hours to cover only 59 miles. The voyage from hell! We lost the toilet brush overboard washed off the deck. We had a shower to wash all the salt off, a wine, last night’s leftover dinner and fell into bed.
Miles: 59 TTT: 2,610
Wednesday 24 August – Ambong
A lovely still night – the wind had dropped off. Slept in till 6am! Staying put for the day. Braveheart sailed up and got in around 11. We had sundowners on Pacific Express and planned our next day while checking the weather files hoping they were right this time. Another lovely safe calm night.
Thursday 25 August – Ambong – Police Bay, Pulau Gaya
06°02.128N / 116°01.160E (20)
Thinking of you Dad – 36 years
We all left at first light and we sailed for the first couple of hours and then we motor sailed – sea state was slightly swelly – what a difference a day makes! We obviously went a day too early. We arrived at Police Bay at 1.15pm and anchored off the reef in 16m water and went back to 20m. There is a very fancy resort here which we have been told is hugely expensive. We put Bob in and rowed to the beach. Braveheart camein and we snorkled but the coral was dead – there were a few fish but it was very ordinary. But it was nice to be in the water again. Went back to the boat around 3pm. Braveheart discovered that one of their oars had been stolen! Some longtail macaques came down to the beach – we presume thats what they were. They have long black tails and are very dark and much bigger than an ordinary macaque. Was lovely to sit and watch them Had a peaceful night. Watched a lightning show over the hill hoping the storm wouldn’t come and it didn’t. An early night.
Miles: 31 TTT: 2,641
Friday 26 August – Police Bay – sandspit at Pulau Tiga
05°44.979N / 115°40.766E
Happy Birthday Mum
We all left at first light with mainsails up in good weather. Our engine mounts are very worrisome. We motor sailed and arrived at the sheltered sandspit near Pulau Tiga at 12 noon. Braveheart anchored off Tiga and explored the island but it was too swelly for us there. We had a quiet afternoon and a good nights sleep. Last time we were here we left the boat open but this time we locked up!
Miles: 29 TTT: 2,670
About 100 miles to Miri but we are going to detour into Brunei for the end of Ramahdan celebrations. Will let you know how that goes. There are no photos to speak of this week so will leave you with a series of photos Judy from Braveheart took of Cilantro and a ship.
Meanwhile love to all and take care.
Dell and Peter
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Sunday, August 21, 2011
WEEK 18: Sandakan to Kudat
Sunday 14 August – Sandakan
Shopping, looking around, wet market then dinner at the Yacht Club.
Monday 15 August - Sandakan – Pulau Tikiis
06°04.238N / 117°57.344E (5m)
We all went to the Harbour Master to check in and check out. The others all went in a taxi to check out at Customs while Judy and the I did some shopping. It was then back to the boat and upanchored at 12 noon. We sailed quite a bit with good breeze and went past Pulau Liberran and anchored between an island and the mainland. We had to reanchor twice to get it to set. We could see a huge front with clouds full of lightning way over the land. Went to bed and at 11 the wind blew in from across the bay and a huge swell came in with big waves. The skipper did anchor watch and sure enough we were dragging again!! At 1am we pulled up and reanchored and the wind finally started to ease. Not a nice night at all.
Miles: 27 TTT: 2,415
Tuesday 16 August – Pulau Tikiis – Tanjong Kinulubatan
06°38.183N / 117°30.325E (4.3)
We all upanchored at 6am and we motor sailed and went past Pulau Lankayan around lunch time. We went in and had a look. It is a beautiful tropical island but given the weather of last night and this island having no shelter and to anchor and have a snorkel would have made us too late we kept going. We had some very good sailing – best for ages and went through the reef to arrive at the safe anchorage at 5.45
Miles: 56 TTT: 2,471
Wednesday 17 August – Tanjong Kinulubatan – Pulau Banggi
07°06.852N / 117°05.459E (12m)
We were supposed to leave at 7am but it was so peaceful and still and raining lightly we finally got away at 7.20. It turned out to be a long boring day – took shortcut through the reef and then beat into the weather for hours till we reached Pulau Banggi at 6pm. We came in from the other end of the village last time and didn’t like the look of it but from this end it actually looks very interesting. We had to anchor 3 times before we could get it to set. Some children came in their row boat from the bigger boat where they lived so we gave them some food – they couldn’t understand English or Malay.
Miles: 46 TTT: 2,517
Thursday 18 August – Pulau Banggi – Kudat
06°52.588N / 116°51.261 (14m)
Would have liked to have stayed a day to have a look around – maybe next time. We left at 9am and beat into the wind and sea all the way. Seemed to take a long time. Finally arrived in the harbour off the town of Kudat at 2.20pm and anchored in 14m. We went ashore around 5pm just after I had fortuitously downloaded all our photos off the camera. We had trouble finding somewhere to leave the dinghies but a lovely young fish farmer allowed us to tie off his jetty. We had to walk around the edge of the fish farm (lovely big fish) and then onto a raft which he then pulled a few feet across to stairs at the bottom of his house (room) built on stilts and then jetty to the shore. We looked around town and went to a Chinese restaurant for dinner. We sat outside and a cigarette smoking lady took our order which went from 25RM for the 6 of us to 15RM each when we said we wanted individual dishes! It was quite a nice meal but very expensive and when we were leaving we saw the actual dining room which was air conditioned and had fancy tablecloths etc – very fancy and we had just been charged the fancy prices! We came back to our boats after dark – our little fish farmer seeing us safely past the guard dog to our dinghies. Peter locked our door and went to bed. We had decided to leave the hatch above our bed open for air and had locked the motor to Bob and chained Bob to the boat. The chain of course made a clanking noise. I read for another hour or so and went to bed at 10. At 12 we were awakened by VHF radio by Cilantro saying they had disturbed an intruder on their boat. Peter immediately said where is the spoltlight torch which he had put on the table 2 ft from our sleeping heads and then where’s the yellow bag and then we realised that we had been robbed and we said how did he get in – we both then looked up and the back hatch was wide open and we couldn’t believe it. I had presumed Peter had locked it and he thought I would close it!! The thief had even put the stick holding it open back in place but sideways. The waterproof yellow bag had my camera, my prescription sunglasses, my phone and Peter’s wallet and he had also taken my wallet. We found the inverter on the deck – it didn’t have the wires connected so he left it. This person had been 2 ft from our heads, got our stuff and back up through the hatch and we hadn’t heard a thing!! Peter spent an hour on the phone to ANZ cancelling our credit cards and was put through to America to get them to issue an emergency card. Unfortunately the girl seemed to be a little slow and Peter had to spell everything – even Peter – and the address in Miri was very long. We then called the police (and went through 3 people to get an English speaker) and around 2.30am we had a police boat with 6 policemen alongside, 4 of whom came below and all of whom could speak English. Peter meanwhile found my wallet on a towel in the cockpit minus cash but all cards intact. The police were lovely and took the inverter away to get fingerprints. After they left we found Peter’s wallet – minus cash (we lost around $400 in RM) and with all cards intact except Amex and the thief had left a 10RM note – on purpose. He had sat in the cockpit and sorted his booty. Meanwhile unbeknown to us at 1.30 Braveheart disturbed him on their boat and he off into his canoe rowing furiously against the tide and Judy took a couple of photos of him. Unfortunatley it was too dark. Its not a nice feeling but it was our stupidity and we were just grateful he didn’t take the computer which was under a cover on the nav station as were the binoculars and other equipment and we were not harmed.
Miles: 22 TTT: 2,539
Friday 19 August – Kudat
The boys presented themselves to the police station 5km out of town as instructed and spent the morning being interviewed. Sgt George drove them back at lunchtime so we all went ashore for lunch. It was then that Cilantro discovered that the thief had tried to take his outboard or fuel tank as he had bent the new connection they had just put on. Had lunch and did some shopping and all returned exhausted to our boats. We had tied off to the fish farmer’s stairs this time so we knew our dinghies were safe. Actually the town is very friendly and the majority of the people nice. Sgt Geroge had solved a small mystery for us about the people who don’t seem to understand English or Malay – they are in fact tribal people and there are 23 different languages. The family living on their boat at Banggi are of a particular tribe and live on their boats and have no need of money. They didn’t seem to know what a book was when I gave it to them and this would explain it. He also told Peter there are more crocodiles at Banggi than Kudat (James dived on his prop at Banggi!!!).
Anyway our carefree innocence of life aboard has evaporated. In all our time travelling this is the first time we have ever had to really lock up. Whenever we left our boats we would leave them open – not any more. Now we have bolts and padlocks on everything. We still feel safe in our boat but will be much more security conscious in the future. It was nice to see the police boat go past late in the afternoon.
More dramas since then but you will have to wait till next week to find out!!! But we are safe and well.
Still keeping on keeping on
Much love
Dell and Peter
Shopping, looking around, wet market then dinner at the Yacht Club.
Monday 15 August - Sandakan – Pulau Tikiis
06°04.238N / 117°57.344E (5m)
We all went to the Harbour Master to check in and check out. The others all went in a taxi to check out at Customs while Judy and the I did some shopping. It was then back to the boat and upanchored at 12 noon. We sailed quite a bit with good breeze and went past Pulau Liberran and anchored between an island and the mainland. We had to reanchor twice to get it to set. We could see a huge front with clouds full of lightning way over the land. Went to bed and at 11 the wind blew in from across the bay and a huge swell came in with big waves. The skipper did anchor watch and sure enough we were dragging again!! At 1am we pulled up and reanchored and the wind finally started to ease. Not a nice night at all.
Miles: 27 TTT: 2,415
Tuesday 16 August – Pulau Tikiis – Tanjong Kinulubatan
06°38.183N / 117°30.325E (4.3)
We all upanchored at 6am and we motor sailed and went past Pulau Lankayan around lunch time. We went in and had a look. It is a beautiful tropical island but given the weather of last night and this island having no shelter and to anchor and have a snorkel would have made us too late we kept going. We had some very good sailing – best for ages and went through the reef to arrive at the safe anchorage at 5.45
Miles: 56 TTT: 2,471
Wednesday 17 August – Tanjong Kinulubatan – Pulau Banggi
07°06.852N / 117°05.459E (12m)
We were supposed to leave at 7am but it was so peaceful and still and raining lightly we finally got away at 7.20. It turned out to be a long boring day – took shortcut through the reef and then beat into the weather for hours till we reached Pulau Banggi at 6pm. We came in from the other end of the village last time and didn’t like the look of it but from this end it actually looks very interesting. We had to anchor 3 times before we could get it to set. Some children came in their row boat from the bigger boat where they lived so we gave them some food – they couldn’t understand English or Malay.
Miles: 46 TTT: 2,517
Thursday 18 August – Pulau Banggi – Kudat
06°52.588N / 116°51.261 (14m)
Would have liked to have stayed a day to have a look around – maybe next time. We left at 9am and beat into the wind and sea all the way. Seemed to take a long time. Finally arrived in the harbour off the town of Kudat at 2.20pm and anchored in 14m. We went ashore around 5pm just after I had fortuitously downloaded all our photos off the camera. We had trouble finding somewhere to leave the dinghies but a lovely young fish farmer allowed us to tie off his jetty. We had to walk around the edge of the fish farm (lovely big fish) and then onto a raft which he then pulled a few feet across to stairs at the bottom of his house (room) built on stilts and then jetty to the shore. We looked around town and went to a Chinese restaurant for dinner. We sat outside and a cigarette smoking lady took our order which went from 25RM for the 6 of us to 15RM each when we said we wanted individual dishes! It was quite a nice meal but very expensive and when we were leaving we saw the actual dining room which was air conditioned and had fancy tablecloths etc – very fancy and we had just been charged the fancy prices! We came back to our boats after dark – our little fish farmer seeing us safely past the guard dog to our dinghies. Peter locked our door and went to bed. We had decided to leave the hatch above our bed open for air and had locked the motor to Bob and chained Bob to the boat. The chain of course made a clanking noise. I read for another hour or so and went to bed at 10. At 12 we were awakened by VHF radio by Cilantro saying they had disturbed an intruder on their boat. Peter immediately said where is the spoltlight torch which he had put on the table 2 ft from our sleeping heads and then where’s the yellow bag and then we realised that we had been robbed and we said how did he get in – we both then looked up and the back hatch was wide open and we couldn’t believe it. I had presumed Peter had locked it and he thought I would close it!! The thief had even put the stick holding it open back in place but sideways. The waterproof yellow bag had my camera, my prescription sunglasses, my phone and Peter’s wallet and he had also taken my wallet. We found the inverter on the deck – it didn’t have the wires connected so he left it. This person had been 2 ft from our heads, got our stuff and back up through the hatch and we hadn’t heard a thing!! Peter spent an hour on the phone to ANZ cancelling our credit cards and was put through to America to get them to issue an emergency card. Unfortunately the girl seemed to be a little slow and Peter had to spell everything – even Peter – and the address in Miri was very long. We then called the police (and went through 3 people to get an English speaker) and around 2.30am we had a police boat with 6 policemen alongside, 4 of whom came below and all of whom could speak English. Peter meanwhile found my wallet on a towel in the cockpit minus cash but all cards intact. The police were lovely and took the inverter away to get fingerprints. After they left we found Peter’s wallet – minus cash (we lost around $400 in RM) and with all cards intact except Amex and the thief had left a 10RM note – on purpose. He had sat in the cockpit and sorted his booty. Meanwhile unbeknown to us at 1.30 Braveheart disturbed him on their boat and he off into his canoe rowing furiously against the tide and Judy took a couple of photos of him. Unfortunatley it was too dark. Its not a nice feeling but it was our stupidity and we were just grateful he didn’t take the computer which was under a cover on the nav station as were the binoculars and other equipment and we were not harmed.
Miles: 22 TTT: 2,539
Friday 19 August – Kudat
The boys presented themselves to the police station 5km out of town as instructed and spent the morning being interviewed. Sgt George drove them back at lunchtime so we all went ashore for lunch. It was then that Cilantro discovered that the thief had tried to take his outboard or fuel tank as he had bent the new connection they had just put on. Had lunch and did some shopping and all returned exhausted to our boats. We had tied off to the fish farmer’s stairs this time so we knew our dinghies were safe. Actually the town is very friendly and the majority of the people nice. Sgt Geroge had solved a small mystery for us about the people who don’t seem to understand English or Malay – they are in fact tribal people and there are 23 different languages. The family living on their boat at Banggi are of a particular tribe and live on their boats and have no need of money. They didn’t seem to know what a book was when I gave it to them and this would explain it. He also told Peter there are more crocodiles at Banggi than Kudat (James dived on his prop at Banggi!!!).
Anyway our carefree innocence of life aboard has evaporated. In all our time travelling this is the first time we have ever had to really lock up. Whenever we left our boats we would leave them open – not any more. Now we have bolts and padlocks on everything. We still feel safe in our boat but will be much more security conscious in the future. It was nice to see the police boat go past late in the afternoon.
More dramas since then but you will have to wait till next week to find out!!! But we are safe and well.
Still keeping on keeping on
Much love
Dell and Peter
Thursday, August 18, 2011
WEEK 17: Sandakan to Kinabatangan River to Sandakan
Saturday 6 August – Sandakan
Did the walking tour of Sandakan with Cilantro and went to Agnes Keith’s house which was rebuilt after the war. She was a USA author who lived in Sandakan with her husband and children for some years before the war and spent the war as POW’s. Sandakan was basically obliterated during the war. A replica of the Keith’s house was built in the same place. The big stone church and the Chinese temple survived. Agnes wrote The Land Beneath the Wind about their time in Borneo, then Three Came Home which was about their time as POWs and was made into a movie and then she wrote The White Man Returns. They came back for four or so years after the war. After we saw their lovely house we went next door to an equally stunning colonial building for an English tea – scones with jam and cream, cucumber sandwiches and pastries on royal doulton plates – oh so nice! You could also have a game of croquet if you so desired. We went to the market after that and got fresh fruit and veg then had a swim in the Yacht Club pool, a wonderful shower and dinner at the Yacht Club.
Sunday 7 August – Sandakan – Dewhurst Bay
05°33.809N / 118°33.874E (9m)
We upanchored at 6am and headed to Dewhurst Bay up the southern entrance of the river. Wavesweeper decided to try the northern entrance and seemed to be doing ok so we followed him. But when we got down to 0.3m and then 0.1m under the keel we decided to turn back. We then heard that Wavesweeper was aground on a mud bank. We continued to the southern bay and Wavesweeper extricated themselves and followed. As we were going along a small fish jumped right out of the water and almost landed on the deck. We came across the bar going down to 2.6m of water and into the river. We found good water after that but again in the river went to 2.5m before getting to Dewhurst Bay where we anchored in 8m water at 4.30pm. The cats and Rubicon Star went through the northern entrance and went down to 1.7m and we have a 1.8m keel so obviously we would not have made it through. Lots of Nipa palm around but a pleasant place to be.
Miles: 49 TTT: 2,294
Monday 8 August – Dewhurst Bay – Kinabatangan River
05°40.227N / 118°23.266 (5.7m)
Happy Birthday Margaret
We radioed the other boats at 7.10 but had the grumbles from a couple of boats that it was a bit early. We knew we had a long way to go and had to catch the tide for the shallows. At 8.30 we upanchored and headed out and everyone else was behind us. We followed the waypoints we had – we had three lots of notes but the notes from Sazli were good. We went down to 2.2m depth (.4m under the keel). All the others found deeper water on the left side of the river but we had to go up the right tributary. Nimbus and Wavesweeper decided to follow their path and Cilantro came back round to come with us. It was a bit African Queen like at first and depths fluctuated but it was all good and we took a wide berth on the corners. When we came to the four rivers crossroad we took a left and followed a reasonably wide river and after about five miles the nipah palms began to give way to jungle. The river was very windy and we had to go around the outside of the bends which meant we were constantly zig sagging from one side to the other avoiding logs, branches and other debris. We had good depths all the way and saw a family of macaque monkeys but towards the end it was getting a little tedious. We finally came to the T intersection where there were a few houses and turned left down past a village. Ketoro called us up to give us a waypoint for a small tributary where there was a fire fly tree so we anchored there. On the way we saw two large dark monkeys with long black tails (long tailed macaques). Anchored in front of Baganoff and the trees either side of the river had heaps of Proboscus monkeys – magic. They are the ones with the big bulbous noses and big bellies. The females have a sort of Pinocchio nose before he started telling lies! Just on dark Cilantro picked us up in their dinghy and we went up the tributary. We went a long way in and came out into what we thought was a lake. Couldnt find the tree so headed back in the dark by torchlight. The dinghy wasn’t making much headway and we thought we must have had something around the prop but found we had gone aground! Anyway 200m from the entrance to the tributary we found the fire fly tree! Sat on the deck and listened to the jungle noises
Miles: 25 TTT: 2,319
Tuesday 9 August – Kinabatangan River to Kampong Sikau
05°30.497N / 118°17.701 (6m)
We watched the monkeys for a while – how wonderful to be able to wake up on a river in the jungle and watch monkeys!! Cilantro collected us again and we went up the tributary in daylight. It was very pretty. We saw two large hornbills and two smaller hornbill birds. They make a kind of clacking noise. Also lots of large eagles. When we came back to the boats we went in close to the monkeys and got a close up of a large male Proboscus monkey eating with both hands. We know he was a male because he had a large bulbous nose and as the Lonely Planet says the male is in a continual state of excitement! We left at 9 and headed up the river and all we saw all day were a couple of monitor lizards It was jungle all the way but then we saw a hill and it was covered in palm oil trees all over the hill and down to the river! What a shame. We zig zagged our way up the river meeting a tug and a barge so we ducked across in front of the tug and went on the inside as the barge swang very wide on the end of its line. Saw heaps of white herons. In fact one seemed to fly on ahead of us and pose for a photo and then fly off just before we got there! We arrived at Kampong Sukau around 2pm and anchored between the 4 cats and Rubicon Star who were already there. We cannot go any further up the river than this because of the power lines across the river. It was very hot. A quiet night on board except for the mosque.
Miles: 19 TTT: 2,338
Wednesday 10 August – Kampong Sukau
We got up at 5.30am in the dark and along with Braveheart and Cilantro took our dinghies up past the powerlines and up a tributary to the right. Prosboscis monkeys were leaping all over the place. It was a little dark for good photos and the skipper was just getting used to his camera. We saw macaques and different birds - kingfishers and Oriental Darters. Two tour boats came in behind us so every time they went in to look at something we would have a look too. Think a couple of times they must have been looking at rare plants because we couldn’t see anything! A little later they told us orangutan and told us to hold on to their boat so we could see. Then we went into a little inlet with Braveheart and the tour boat also came in. Then two juvenile orangutans appeared in the tree in front of us. One was most agitated and wanted us to go away so shook the branches so all the water dropped on our heads. We watched for a while longer and asked the guide how we could see the elephants and he said to go to the village to see if we could get a boat to take us. We then made our way out of the inlet and went to a homestay cafe for breakfast with all the other boats. This Way Up and Kitorro departed soon after to go with the rally to Tawau where the rally concludes. We have now officially left the rally. We asked Jody at the homestay about getting a boat and he gave us a name to ask for in the village and said they charged a price for the boat – not individually. So we walked 15 minutes to the village and asked around and found a girl who could speak English who made a couple of phone calls and found us a boat for 150RM - $50! The boatman (Ronie) picked eight of us up at 4pm and we headed up the river under the powerlines and went for about half an hour then turned into a tributary. Along the way he stopped to show us a crocodile – we could see its head and its tail – about 2m long. We saw birds and monitor lizards and could see evidence of elephants having been there but no elephants. We eventually started heading out and we were very disappointed thinking we weren’t going to see the elephants – there are no guarantees. We stopped to look at Prosboscis monkeys when we saw the guide from this morning who seemed quite pleased we had taken is advice and he asked us if we had seen the elephants. When we said no he hold us where they were so we shot out of the tributary and went a bit further up the river and there they were – a herd of pygmy elephants. Ronie managed to get us right in the front and I had just said I wanted to see them in the water when two came out and the first one turned around and climbed backwards into the water like a child going downstairs. The second one turned too soon and flopped on his bottom to turn around and he went backwards in too and then we watched them frolicking, swimming ducking in the water. It was really awesome and our timing was impeccable. We watched for a while then left for the 3/4hr boatride back getting back just before dark. Its dangerous to travel at night as there are so many branches and logs in the water. What a fantastic day – Proboscis, Orangutan and elephant!!
Thursday 11 August – Kampong Sukau
Happy Birthday Dad
A quiet day to catch our breath. There is a barge ferry attached to a tug which goes up and down past us. When all the boats were there it went up and down on the right but now it comes up and either goes behind us and up on the left or cuts in front of us and behind Braveheart. Thank goodness he seems to know how to drive it. Everyone is very friendly and they all wave The mosque goes on for a couple of hours at night and there are lots of bangs like crackers and we think they must be celebrating ramahdam. They seem to put something like gunpowder in bamboo and light it and some bangs are certainly louder than others. A tug towing a barge came wide on the corner behind us but he seemed to have the barge well under control when he went past us – bit disconcerting. We have been surprised that there are not lots of mosquitos – just flies! Sat and watched macaques going across the creek on a wire. They kept slipping under it – it was very funny to watch. We got picked up from our boats at 8pm for a night tour by Ahmad. This bloke charged per person so at 35RM each it was expensive We saw some Kingfishers – they seem to go to sleep at night so they don’t fly off – a couple of owls, frogs. Lizard, oriental darter and a sleeping short tailed macaque and a couple of very small crocs and that was about it. It started sprinkling rain and we were back at our boats at 10.20. We didn’t think this was terribly good value for money. Another noisy night with the mosque.
Friday 12 August – Kampon Sukau – Kinabatangan River
05°40.221N / 118°23.248E
Happy Birthday Bernie
It rained all night and was still sprinkling but we went up a little tributary but not much was about. We found some mud birds’ nests on the cliff and saw a tiny kingfisher feeding its young. Lots of little birds flying around and also lots of bats hanging in the clefts of the rock. We were going to have breakfast again as Rubicon Star has got under the powerlines and will be going up the river. The guest houses only have enough food for their guests as a rule and we lucked out this morning. Said our farewells and we upanchored around 9.45 and followed Braveheart and Cilantro down the river zigzagging around the bends. We reached our original anchorage around 2. It is wonderful to be able to sit on your boat in the middle of the jungle and listen to the birds and animals. The palm oil trees are encroaching and in some cases are along the river, we wonder how much jungle is actually behind what we can see along the river. The river is brown and silty now but we have been told 20 years ago it was blue but all the logging and jungle clearing has silted it up. Judy from Braveheart invited us all over for a fish curry which was absolutely beautiful. There was much Proboscis activity and we watched them leaping from branch to branch. They seemed to like getting really high and leaping down and out to the next branches. One poor little guy mistimed and took a tumble to the ground! After dinner we took our dinghies up the creek to see the firefly tree but it was a full moon so we couldn’t see many fireflies. Judy and Chris’ dinghy had drifted towards the bank and there was a splash beside it which startled them and then there was a big splash and poor Chris almost jumped out of the dinghy! We of course nearly fell out of ours laughing but we didn’t go much further up the creek after that and adjourned to our respective boats and just sat and listened to the jungle noises.
Miles: 19 TTT: 2,357
Saturday 13 August – Kinabantangan River – Sandakan
05°50.465N / 118°07.623E
It started raining around midnight and didn’t stop till mid morning. We upanchored at 6.30 and with Braveheart (a cat) out the front we followed them down the river to the junction and turned left instead of right. We are taking the shallow shortcut out which will save us 1 ½ days and many miles. The river looped right around on itself till there was only a river bank between both arms of the river – amazing. We have been down to 1m under the keel which is worrying and we still have the very shallow (and long) bar to negotiate. It will be a nerve wracking morning for us as we have the deepest keel. The river was quite shallow in places and we did really well till about the last bend when Cilantro called that they had zero under their 1.5m keel and then they were in deep water. When our depth sounder shows 1.4m we are on the ground and we watched it drop 1.5, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.1!!!!! and the skipper put the revs on – we stopped for a bit and then she powered through the mud and then we were in deep water – whew!!! The bar was good – the minimum we got down to was 2.8m true depth (1.4 under the keel). We arrived in Sandakan at 2pm– so much rubbish in the water – dirty nappies – the lot! We went ashore around 5 and had a shower and then a very nice dinner with some people who spent four days up the river last year and didn’t see an elephant or an orangutan!!! How lucky are we. We chained Bob to the back of the boat and locked the motor on the back – back in “civilisation”!!!
Miles: 31 TTT: 2,388
Sorry this is so long but it has been quite a week. We are currently making our way back to Miri where we will leave the boat. The weather has been very stormy at night. Hope you are all well and appreciate that your bed is not in danger of blowing away during the night!!!
May all your storms be small ones!!!!
Dell and Peter
Did the walking tour of Sandakan with Cilantro and went to Agnes Keith’s house which was rebuilt after the war. She was a USA author who lived in Sandakan with her husband and children for some years before the war and spent the war as POW’s. Sandakan was basically obliterated during the war. A replica of the Keith’s house was built in the same place. The big stone church and the Chinese temple survived. Agnes wrote The Land Beneath the Wind about their time in Borneo, then Three Came Home which was about their time as POWs and was made into a movie and then she wrote The White Man Returns. They came back for four or so years after the war. After we saw their lovely house we went next door to an equally stunning colonial building for an English tea – scones with jam and cream, cucumber sandwiches and pastries on royal doulton plates – oh so nice! You could also have a game of croquet if you so desired. We went to the market after that and got fresh fruit and veg then had a swim in the Yacht Club pool, a wonderful shower and dinner at the Yacht Club.
Sunday 7 August – Sandakan – Dewhurst Bay
05°33.809N / 118°33.874E (9m)
We upanchored at 6am and headed to Dewhurst Bay up the southern entrance of the river. Wavesweeper decided to try the northern entrance and seemed to be doing ok so we followed him. But when we got down to 0.3m and then 0.1m under the keel we decided to turn back. We then heard that Wavesweeper was aground on a mud bank. We continued to the southern bay and Wavesweeper extricated themselves and followed. As we were going along a small fish jumped right out of the water and almost landed on the deck. We came across the bar going down to 2.6m of water and into the river. We found good water after that but again in the river went to 2.5m before getting to Dewhurst Bay where we anchored in 8m water at 4.30pm. The cats and Rubicon Star went through the northern entrance and went down to 1.7m and we have a 1.8m keel so obviously we would not have made it through. Lots of Nipa palm around but a pleasant place to be.
Miles: 49 TTT: 2,294
Monday 8 August – Dewhurst Bay – Kinabatangan River
05°40.227N / 118°23.266 (5.7m)
Happy Birthday Margaret
We radioed the other boats at 7.10 but had the grumbles from a couple of boats that it was a bit early. We knew we had a long way to go and had to catch the tide for the shallows. At 8.30 we upanchored and headed out and everyone else was behind us. We followed the waypoints we had – we had three lots of notes but the notes from Sazli were good. We went down to 2.2m depth (.4m under the keel). All the others found deeper water on the left side of the river but we had to go up the right tributary. Nimbus and Wavesweeper decided to follow their path and Cilantro came back round to come with us. It was a bit African Queen like at first and depths fluctuated but it was all good and we took a wide berth on the corners. When we came to the four rivers crossroad we took a left and followed a reasonably wide river and after about five miles the nipah palms began to give way to jungle. The river was very windy and we had to go around the outside of the bends which meant we were constantly zig sagging from one side to the other avoiding logs, branches and other debris. We had good depths all the way and saw a family of macaque monkeys but towards the end it was getting a little tedious. We finally came to the T intersection where there were a few houses and turned left down past a village. Ketoro called us up to give us a waypoint for a small tributary where there was a fire fly tree so we anchored there. On the way we saw two large dark monkeys with long black tails (long tailed macaques). Anchored in front of Baganoff and the trees either side of the river had heaps of Proboscus monkeys – magic. They are the ones with the big bulbous noses and big bellies. The females have a sort of Pinocchio nose before he started telling lies! Just on dark Cilantro picked us up in their dinghy and we went up the tributary. We went a long way in and came out into what we thought was a lake. Couldnt find the tree so headed back in the dark by torchlight. The dinghy wasn’t making much headway and we thought we must have had something around the prop but found we had gone aground! Anyway 200m from the entrance to the tributary we found the fire fly tree! Sat on the deck and listened to the jungle noises
Miles: 25 TTT: 2,319
Tuesday 9 August – Kinabatangan River to Kampong Sikau
05°30.497N / 118°17.701 (6m)
We watched the monkeys for a while – how wonderful to be able to wake up on a river in the jungle and watch monkeys!! Cilantro collected us again and we went up the tributary in daylight. It was very pretty. We saw two large hornbills and two smaller hornbill birds. They make a kind of clacking noise. Also lots of large eagles. When we came back to the boats we went in close to the monkeys and got a close up of a large male Proboscus monkey eating with both hands. We know he was a male because he had a large bulbous nose and as the Lonely Planet says the male is in a continual state of excitement! We left at 9 and headed up the river and all we saw all day were a couple of monitor lizards It was jungle all the way but then we saw a hill and it was covered in palm oil trees all over the hill and down to the river! What a shame. We zig zagged our way up the river meeting a tug and a barge so we ducked across in front of the tug and went on the inside as the barge swang very wide on the end of its line. Saw heaps of white herons. In fact one seemed to fly on ahead of us and pose for a photo and then fly off just before we got there! We arrived at Kampong Sukau around 2pm and anchored between the 4 cats and Rubicon Star who were already there. We cannot go any further up the river than this because of the power lines across the river. It was very hot. A quiet night on board except for the mosque.
Miles: 19 TTT: 2,338
Wednesday 10 August – Kampong Sukau
We got up at 5.30am in the dark and along with Braveheart and Cilantro took our dinghies up past the powerlines and up a tributary to the right. Prosboscis monkeys were leaping all over the place. It was a little dark for good photos and the skipper was just getting used to his camera. We saw macaques and different birds - kingfishers and Oriental Darters. Two tour boats came in behind us so every time they went in to look at something we would have a look too. Think a couple of times they must have been looking at rare plants because we couldn’t see anything! A little later they told us orangutan and told us to hold on to their boat so we could see. Then we went into a little inlet with Braveheart and the tour boat also came in. Then two juvenile orangutans appeared in the tree in front of us. One was most agitated and wanted us to go away so shook the branches so all the water dropped on our heads. We watched for a while longer and asked the guide how we could see the elephants and he said to go to the village to see if we could get a boat to take us. We then made our way out of the inlet and went to a homestay cafe for breakfast with all the other boats. This Way Up and Kitorro departed soon after to go with the rally to Tawau where the rally concludes. We have now officially left the rally. We asked Jody at the homestay about getting a boat and he gave us a name to ask for in the village and said they charged a price for the boat – not individually. So we walked 15 minutes to the village and asked around and found a girl who could speak English who made a couple of phone calls and found us a boat for 150RM - $50! The boatman (Ronie) picked eight of us up at 4pm and we headed up the river under the powerlines and went for about half an hour then turned into a tributary. Along the way he stopped to show us a crocodile – we could see its head and its tail – about 2m long. We saw birds and monitor lizards and could see evidence of elephants having been there but no elephants. We eventually started heading out and we were very disappointed thinking we weren’t going to see the elephants – there are no guarantees. We stopped to look at Prosboscis monkeys when we saw the guide from this morning who seemed quite pleased we had taken is advice and he asked us if we had seen the elephants. When we said no he hold us where they were so we shot out of the tributary and went a bit further up the river and there they were – a herd of pygmy elephants. Ronie managed to get us right in the front and I had just said I wanted to see them in the water when two came out and the first one turned around and climbed backwards into the water like a child going downstairs. The second one turned too soon and flopped on his bottom to turn around and he went backwards in too and then we watched them frolicking, swimming ducking in the water. It was really awesome and our timing was impeccable. We watched for a while then left for the 3/4hr boatride back getting back just before dark. Its dangerous to travel at night as there are so many branches and logs in the water. What a fantastic day – Proboscis, Orangutan and elephant!!
Thursday 11 August – Kampong Sukau
Happy Birthday Dad
A quiet day to catch our breath. There is a barge ferry attached to a tug which goes up and down past us. When all the boats were there it went up and down on the right but now it comes up and either goes behind us and up on the left or cuts in front of us and behind Braveheart. Thank goodness he seems to know how to drive it. Everyone is very friendly and they all wave The mosque goes on for a couple of hours at night and there are lots of bangs like crackers and we think they must be celebrating ramahdam. They seem to put something like gunpowder in bamboo and light it and some bangs are certainly louder than others. A tug towing a barge came wide on the corner behind us but he seemed to have the barge well under control when he went past us – bit disconcerting. We have been surprised that there are not lots of mosquitos – just flies! Sat and watched macaques going across the creek on a wire. They kept slipping under it – it was very funny to watch. We got picked up from our boats at 8pm for a night tour by Ahmad. This bloke charged per person so at 35RM each it was expensive We saw some Kingfishers – they seem to go to sleep at night so they don’t fly off – a couple of owls, frogs. Lizard, oriental darter and a sleeping short tailed macaque and a couple of very small crocs and that was about it. It started sprinkling rain and we were back at our boats at 10.20. We didn’t think this was terribly good value for money. Another noisy night with the mosque.
Friday 12 August – Kampon Sukau – Kinabatangan River
05°40.221N / 118°23.248E
Happy Birthday Bernie
It rained all night and was still sprinkling but we went up a little tributary but not much was about. We found some mud birds’ nests on the cliff and saw a tiny kingfisher feeding its young. Lots of little birds flying around and also lots of bats hanging in the clefts of the rock. We were going to have breakfast again as Rubicon Star has got under the powerlines and will be going up the river. The guest houses only have enough food for their guests as a rule and we lucked out this morning. Said our farewells and we upanchored around 9.45 and followed Braveheart and Cilantro down the river zigzagging around the bends. We reached our original anchorage around 2. It is wonderful to be able to sit on your boat in the middle of the jungle and listen to the birds and animals. The palm oil trees are encroaching and in some cases are along the river, we wonder how much jungle is actually behind what we can see along the river. The river is brown and silty now but we have been told 20 years ago it was blue but all the logging and jungle clearing has silted it up. Judy from Braveheart invited us all over for a fish curry which was absolutely beautiful. There was much Proboscis activity and we watched them leaping from branch to branch. They seemed to like getting really high and leaping down and out to the next branches. One poor little guy mistimed and took a tumble to the ground! After dinner we took our dinghies up the creek to see the firefly tree but it was a full moon so we couldn’t see many fireflies. Judy and Chris’ dinghy had drifted towards the bank and there was a splash beside it which startled them and then there was a big splash and poor Chris almost jumped out of the dinghy! We of course nearly fell out of ours laughing but we didn’t go much further up the creek after that and adjourned to our respective boats and just sat and listened to the jungle noises.
Miles: 19 TTT: 2,357
Saturday 13 August – Kinabantangan River – Sandakan
05°50.465N / 118°07.623E
It started raining around midnight and didn’t stop till mid morning. We upanchored at 6.30 and with Braveheart (a cat) out the front we followed them down the river to the junction and turned left instead of right. We are taking the shallow shortcut out which will save us 1 ½ days and many miles. The river looped right around on itself till there was only a river bank between both arms of the river – amazing. We have been down to 1m under the keel which is worrying and we still have the very shallow (and long) bar to negotiate. It will be a nerve wracking morning for us as we have the deepest keel. The river was quite shallow in places and we did really well till about the last bend when Cilantro called that they had zero under their 1.5m keel and then they were in deep water. When our depth sounder shows 1.4m we are on the ground and we watched it drop 1.5, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.1!!!!! and the skipper put the revs on – we stopped for a bit and then she powered through the mud and then we were in deep water – whew!!! The bar was good – the minimum we got down to was 2.8m true depth (1.4 under the keel). We arrived in Sandakan at 2pm– so much rubbish in the water – dirty nappies – the lot! We went ashore around 5 and had a shower and then a very nice dinner with some people who spent four days up the river last year and didn’t see an elephant or an orangutan!!! How lucky are we. We chained Bob to the back of the boat and locked the motor on the back – back in “civilisation”!!!
Miles: 31 TTT: 2,388
Sorry this is so long but it has been quite a week. We are currently making our way back to Miri where we will leave the boat. The weather has been very stormy at night. Hope you are all well and appreciate that your bed is not in danger of blowing away during the night!!!
May all your storms be small ones!!!!
Dell and Peter
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
WEEK 16: Telek Ambong to Sandakan
Saturday 30 July Telek Ambong to Kudat
06°56.512N / 116°50.586E (13m)
We left at 6.15 in a slight swell with the main up in the hope of some wind. We had been thinking of going out to some islands but it was still a bit swelly so decided to try to catch them on the way back. We can see five other rally boats and Braveheart and Single Malt are somewhere up ahead. It was a beautiful day and rally boats started telling jokes over the radio. We went up and around the tip of Borneo through a channel with rocks on either side. A couple of boats pulled into shore to anchor but it didn’t look as if it would be calm so we kept going down around the next point. We passed two French boats along the way one of which was Bernard who was delighted to see us and gave his big cheery wave. We came into the bay and anchored on the inside of Nimbus in 13m off the north of the town of Kudat at 5.15. There were stilt villages along the waterfront. Another lovely still night.
Miles: 59 TTT: 2,124
Sunday 31 July – Kudat – Pulau Malawali
07°01.957N / 117D21.008E (22m)
We left at 8.30 and went down to the Kudat boatyard and anchored off to see the yard and haulout facilities. The boats in the yard were held up by cement blocks and it is just gravel but would be ok for a quick haulout to antifoul. I don’t think we would leave our boat on the hard here. We then headed for an island 20 miles away intending to anchor but when we got there around 1.30ish, there was a town and even though the water was clear it was full of debris and certainly not conducive to swimming so we decided to keep going. It was getting late by the time we reached Pulau Malawali and the anchorage we had chose had depths of 22 metres. There was a reef all around and it was really too late in the arvo to see under the water. Luckily it was low tide and we could see the reef sticking out of the water. We went around a reef spit and headed in. Cilantro went suddenly from 20 to 2m and backed off so as it was 5.50pm and the sun was almost down we anchored in 22m. We could see two cats way out on a reef and when they saw us anchor they came in to join us. When we pulled up, a boat with a man and two boys came over asking for food. On the shore there are three fragile looking stilt houses – stilts are very high. They don’t speak Malay so we presume they are Fillipino. There were a lot of people gathering stuff off the exposed reefs. A very calm anchorage.
Miles: 49 TTT: 2,133
Monday 1 August – Pulau Malawali – Tanjong Sumangat
06°38.201N / 117°30.230 (5m)
Through the night we could feel the anchor pulling and knew we were caught on a bommy. In 20m of water!! We had been very lucky when we came in yesterday that it was low tide as we could see the reef. This morning it was high tide and it just looked like lovely calm water with no sight of the dangers lurking beneath. We launched Bob and went for a snorkel. The coral was quite good but we were snorkelling on a drop off and it just gave us an uncomfortable eery feeling so we didn’t stay long. We took the bathoscope and checked out the finger of reef which Cilantro had found yesterday. As we pulled up anchor we were able to manoeuvre the boat and luckily were able to get the anchor chain off the bommy. We had our whole 60m out so it could have been disastrous. We pretty much followed the shipping channel to the next island but the anchorage looked exposed so we kept going and took a shortcut through the reef. We went into the channel between an island and the mainland doing wind against tide and only doing 2.9 knots at one stage. At last we reached shallow water and anchored in 4.7m and went back to 5.5 with 20m of chain out. Through the night we had pretty strong winds and rain.
Miles: 34 TTT: 2,167
Tuesday 2 August – Tg Sumangal – Pulau Libarran
06°06.220N 118°01.139E (12m)
We awoke to find we were just floating around in the bay. Obviously we should have put out more chain so we dragged and luckily we went into deep water – 12m and not into the shallows. We left at 7am and it was a long boring day of motoring with dead flat sea. At lunch time we passed a lovely island where Baganoff was anchored. We pressed on thinking we were going to a lovely island but when we go there at 6.10pm it was an island with a dirty village and dirty water which didn’t look very appealing. We were amazed to see a herd of cows on the beach! The anchorage shoaled up a lot quicker than the chart plotter indicated and we anchored in 12m in a 2 knot current. Not ideal but too late to go elsewhere.
Miles: 55 TTT: 2,222
Wednesday 3 August – Pulau Libarran – Sandakan
05°50.496N / 118°07.737E
We awoke around 3am as the wind and tide were picking up and by 4am it was blowing really hard and we were dragging anchor. We started the motor and held the boat into the wind until the storm abated and we realised our anchor was at last holding. In the light of day we found we had dragged 130m! Cilantro left and we upanchored at 7.45 and headed towards Sandakan. We could hear snatches of conversation from the rally boats there and it sounds as though there has been a theft from a boat. We motor sailed through some huge bamboo contraptions built in the water with a little hut on each and fishing nets beneath. All the nets were out of the water so they are not being currently used. Maritime Malaysia called us up on the radio to check where we had come from and we came around the big cliff into the Harbour of Sandakan. We anchored but it didn’t hold and pulled it up and we had a big bag around the anchor. We held the second time. We are out the back of the fleet – have to anchor a long way from other boats as we all go every which way. The water is full of debris/rubbish and we are anchored beside a poor looking stilt village and a huge mosque. There are lots of fishing boats and smaller boats going back and forth so have put 6 flashing blue lights on the boat. It seems that at 2am last night two men did a raid on all the boats. A couple of the crews were up and frightened them off but three boats lost computer, phone, money, camera, credit cards etc but the really scary thing about it was that these men actually went aboard down below while people were sleeping and in one case actually entered the bedroom. The police came and took finger prints and have a suspect – they just have to find him!! The police will be patrolling our boats for the next couple of nights. They have a huge problem here with illegals from both the Philippines and Indonesia. Cilantro picked us up at 5 and we went in for a rally meeting and stayed for a very nice dinner at the Sandakan Yacht Club. We can safely leave our dinghies there. A big storm came through and we came back in sprinkling rain. We locked the boat up when we went out and when we went to bed – only the second time we have ever done that.
Miles: 23 TTT: 2,245
Thursday 4 August – Sandakan
We went ashore at 11 and caught a bus the short distance to town and then a mini bus to the Sandakan War Memorial which is built on the site of the POW camp. It is a very sad thing that only six men out of over 2,500 survived the camp and the death marches and they survived only because they escaped. It was a place of sheer horror. Very well maintained courtesy of the Commonwealth Government. We then caught the bus back and had lunch, did a bit of shopping and then got ready for the rally dinner. We were the guests of the Regent (Mayor) at his beautiful home high on the hill overlooking the harbour. It was sponsored by Carlsberg so the glasses were never empty and the ladies started with champagne and then red and white wine. The Regent could sing and so he did a couple of songs and it was all really great dance music. We had a lovely buffet and heaps of dancing and a fantastic night. When we got back to the Yacht Club we got more free drinks and good conversation and it was really late by the time we all made it back to our boats – some in better conditions than others!!
Friday 5 August – Sandakan
Peter and James went in at 8am to get fuel. I finished booking our airfares and we had an easy day. We went ashore around 5.30pm, had a rally meeting to gather information about going up the Kinabatangan River. We were then taken out to dinner by Dr Edmond and Cathy (locals) at a local restaurant. I thought I ate a small piece of fish but Dougie reckoned it was frog/toad!! Anyway it was a lovely evening and Sandakan is looking like a really nice place.
Next stop up the Kinabatangan River!
Take care all
Dell and Peter
06°56.512N / 116°50.586E (13m)
We left at 6.15 in a slight swell with the main up in the hope of some wind. We had been thinking of going out to some islands but it was still a bit swelly so decided to try to catch them on the way back. We can see five other rally boats and Braveheart and Single Malt are somewhere up ahead. It was a beautiful day and rally boats started telling jokes over the radio. We went up and around the tip of Borneo through a channel with rocks on either side. A couple of boats pulled into shore to anchor but it didn’t look as if it would be calm so we kept going down around the next point. We passed two French boats along the way one of which was Bernard who was delighted to see us and gave his big cheery wave. We came into the bay and anchored on the inside of Nimbus in 13m off the north of the town of Kudat at 5.15. There were stilt villages along the waterfront. Another lovely still night.
Miles: 59 TTT: 2,124
Sunday 31 July – Kudat – Pulau Malawali
07°01.957N / 117D21.008E (22m)
We left at 8.30 and went down to the Kudat boatyard and anchored off to see the yard and haulout facilities. The boats in the yard were held up by cement blocks and it is just gravel but would be ok for a quick haulout to antifoul. I don’t think we would leave our boat on the hard here. We then headed for an island 20 miles away intending to anchor but when we got there around 1.30ish, there was a town and even though the water was clear it was full of debris and certainly not conducive to swimming so we decided to keep going. It was getting late by the time we reached Pulau Malawali and the anchorage we had chose had depths of 22 metres. There was a reef all around and it was really too late in the arvo to see under the water. Luckily it was low tide and we could see the reef sticking out of the water. We went around a reef spit and headed in. Cilantro went suddenly from 20 to 2m and backed off so as it was 5.50pm and the sun was almost down we anchored in 22m. We could see two cats way out on a reef and when they saw us anchor they came in to join us. When we pulled up, a boat with a man and two boys came over asking for food. On the shore there are three fragile looking stilt houses – stilts are very high. They don’t speak Malay so we presume they are Fillipino. There were a lot of people gathering stuff off the exposed reefs. A very calm anchorage.
Miles: 49 TTT: 2,133
Monday 1 August – Pulau Malawali – Tanjong Sumangat
06°38.201N / 117°30.230 (5m)
Through the night we could feel the anchor pulling and knew we were caught on a bommy. In 20m of water!! We had been very lucky when we came in yesterday that it was low tide as we could see the reef. This morning it was high tide and it just looked like lovely calm water with no sight of the dangers lurking beneath. We launched Bob and went for a snorkel. The coral was quite good but we were snorkelling on a drop off and it just gave us an uncomfortable eery feeling so we didn’t stay long. We took the bathoscope and checked out the finger of reef which Cilantro had found yesterday. As we pulled up anchor we were able to manoeuvre the boat and luckily were able to get the anchor chain off the bommy. We had our whole 60m out so it could have been disastrous. We pretty much followed the shipping channel to the next island but the anchorage looked exposed so we kept going and took a shortcut through the reef. We went into the channel between an island and the mainland doing wind against tide and only doing 2.9 knots at one stage. At last we reached shallow water and anchored in 4.7m and went back to 5.5 with 20m of chain out. Through the night we had pretty strong winds and rain.
Miles: 34 TTT: 2,167
Tuesday 2 August – Tg Sumangal – Pulau Libarran
06°06.220N 118°01.139E (12m)
We awoke to find we were just floating around in the bay. Obviously we should have put out more chain so we dragged and luckily we went into deep water – 12m and not into the shallows. We left at 7am and it was a long boring day of motoring with dead flat sea. At lunch time we passed a lovely island where Baganoff was anchored. We pressed on thinking we were going to a lovely island but when we go there at 6.10pm it was an island with a dirty village and dirty water which didn’t look very appealing. We were amazed to see a herd of cows on the beach! The anchorage shoaled up a lot quicker than the chart plotter indicated and we anchored in 12m in a 2 knot current. Not ideal but too late to go elsewhere.
Miles: 55 TTT: 2,222
Wednesday 3 August – Pulau Libarran – Sandakan
05°50.496N / 118°07.737E
We awoke around 3am as the wind and tide were picking up and by 4am it was blowing really hard and we were dragging anchor. We started the motor and held the boat into the wind until the storm abated and we realised our anchor was at last holding. In the light of day we found we had dragged 130m! Cilantro left and we upanchored at 7.45 and headed towards Sandakan. We could hear snatches of conversation from the rally boats there and it sounds as though there has been a theft from a boat. We motor sailed through some huge bamboo contraptions built in the water with a little hut on each and fishing nets beneath. All the nets were out of the water so they are not being currently used. Maritime Malaysia called us up on the radio to check where we had come from and we came around the big cliff into the Harbour of Sandakan. We anchored but it didn’t hold and pulled it up and we had a big bag around the anchor. We held the second time. We are out the back of the fleet – have to anchor a long way from other boats as we all go every which way. The water is full of debris/rubbish and we are anchored beside a poor looking stilt village and a huge mosque. There are lots of fishing boats and smaller boats going back and forth so have put 6 flashing blue lights on the boat. It seems that at 2am last night two men did a raid on all the boats. A couple of the crews were up and frightened them off but three boats lost computer, phone, money, camera, credit cards etc but the really scary thing about it was that these men actually went aboard down below while people were sleeping and in one case actually entered the bedroom. The police came and took finger prints and have a suspect – they just have to find him!! The police will be patrolling our boats for the next couple of nights. They have a huge problem here with illegals from both the Philippines and Indonesia. Cilantro picked us up at 5 and we went in for a rally meeting and stayed for a very nice dinner at the Sandakan Yacht Club. We can safely leave our dinghies there. A big storm came through and we came back in sprinkling rain. We locked the boat up when we went out and when we went to bed – only the second time we have ever done that.
Miles: 23 TTT: 2,245
Thursday 4 August – Sandakan
We went ashore at 11 and caught a bus the short distance to town and then a mini bus to the Sandakan War Memorial which is built on the site of the POW camp. It is a very sad thing that only six men out of over 2,500 survived the camp and the death marches and they survived only because they escaped. It was a place of sheer horror. Very well maintained courtesy of the Commonwealth Government. We then caught the bus back and had lunch, did a bit of shopping and then got ready for the rally dinner. We were the guests of the Regent (Mayor) at his beautiful home high on the hill overlooking the harbour. It was sponsored by Carlsberg so the glasses were never empty and the ladies started with champagne and then red and white wine. The Regent could sing and so he did a couple of songs and it was all really great dance music. We had a lovely buffet and heaps of dancing and a fantastic night. When we got back to the Yacht Club we got more free drinks and good conversation and it was really late by the time we all made it back to our boats – some in better conditions than others!!
Friday 5 August – Sandakan
Peter and James went in at 8am to get fuel. I finished booking our airfares and we had an easy day. We went ashore around 5.30pm, had a rally meeting to gather information about going up the Kinabatangan River. We were then taken out to dinner by Dr Edmond and Cathy (locals) at a local restaurant. I thought I ate a small piece of fish but Dougie reckoned it was frog/toad!! Anyway it was a lovely evening and Sandakan is looking like a really nice place.
Next stop up the Kinabatangan River!
Take care all
Dell and Peter
Sunday, July 31, 2011
WEEK 15: Labuan Island to Telek Ambong, Sabah Borneo
Saturday 23 July Labuan – Pulau Tiga
05°43.503N / 115°40.090E (5m)
We left around 8am. Labuan looked really interesting and we cant wait to go back to explore it. Passed a few logs in the water, avoided a couple of ships and headed further up the coast in a reasonable swell. When we pulled the anchor up there was a black plastic bag on it but luckily not on the pointy bit! The wind came up through the day and by the time we reached Pulau Tiga there were white caps everywhere. They call Tiga Survivor Island as that’s where the first Survivor series was made in 2001. We had to anchor around the other side of the island from the resort and it seemed ok. Single Malt were anchored further out and looked a bit exposed. Braveheart came in and anchored where we were. Anyway as Single Malt had suggested to us the swell came around the island and it wasn’t terribly comfortable. We had been hoping to get ashore but the waves were breaking on the beach so we will hope another time to be able to anchor on the resort side of the island.
Miles: 41 TTT: 2,005
Sunday 24 July – Pulau Tiga
05°44.925N / 115°40.770E
We upanchored and went out where Single Malt had been as did Braveheart. It was very calm out there just off the beach of a small island with a white sandspit. There is also another rocky island there which is known as Snake Island as all the sea snakes are supposed to go there to mate. These three islands only popped up out of the ocean in 1897. Chris from Braveheart came over and collected us in his dinghy and we went to Snake Island where there was a sign saying poisonous snakes. Needless to say the crew did not leave the jetty though the skipper walked down the path aways. We did not see any snakes. We then went ashore on the other island and watched the surf breaking off the spit. The waves were coming from three directions and colliding near the shore so it was very interesting. Judy and Chris came over for sundowners and the skipper cooked us all a meal. A pleasant evening.
Miles: 1 TTT: 2,006
Monday 25 July – Pulau Tiga – Kota Kinabalu
05°58.073N / 116°03.158E (13m)
We left at 8.20 and motor sailed in a 1 ½ - 2m swell to Kota Kinabalu and anchored off the marina/resort at 12 noon. We had read such a lot about this marina and had been really looking forward to it. An American boat anchored quite close to us but a little later he went into the marina. When we took Bob in we noticed he was rafted up to another boat and the marina was full. We parked Bob beside Cilantro and they gave us the guided tour. Of course being a pretty fancy resort everything was expensive. Sandra and James had collected our plaque for coming 2nd in the Miri race (although it said 3rd). It was definitely second though as only two of us in our class finished!!! We left to go back out at 5pm and as we were nearing the entrance to the marina a resort tour boat was coming in at speed and straight towards us. He did not slow down and almost seemed to be targeting us! We didn’t know which way to go to get out of his way as every way we went he seemed to go there – of course this was all happening in a matter of seconds. We could see the front of the boat almost seeming to tower in front of us and I screamed and turned my back and honestly thought we were going to be killed. He swerved and slowed a t the last minute. It was a terrifying experience and from that moment the marina didn’t have the same appeal for us. We made it back to the boat very shaken. We had quite a good night with not too much swell.
Miles: 29 TTT: 2,035
Tuesday 26 July – Kota Kinabalu
We went ashore at 9.45 and parked beside Cilantro. We all caught the resort bus into KK which is quite a big city being the capital of Sabah. Six star resorts one side and very poor village the other. The city itself had some large air conditioned shopping malls. We walked to the waterfront and checked out all the markets and a couple of super markets. We then found the Chinese section of town and had a lovely meal and a beer. There seems to be more Muslims in KK than other places we have been in Borneo (not sure if this is so). Malaysia prides itself on its one Malaysia policy which ensures that all citizens are equal but this is probably not really so as we believe the government subsidises the Muslims and also the Muslim schools. Some Chinese told us they have to support their own schools. Anyway just an aside. We went back to the market and bought lovely veggies and heaps of mangoes, pawpaws, and pineapples. Were heading for one of the big shopping complexes but when we got there a siren was going off and it was being evacuated. Caught the 3.30 bus back and went straight back to the boat.
Wednesday 27 July – Kota Kinabulu
Had a dreadful night – we rolled side to side all night and if the rally dinner wasn’t on tonight we would have left. Gave our papers and passports to an agent to check us into Sabah and in and out of KK and went to town. We noticed a few yachts anchored over the side of the town though one did seem to have hit bottom and had assistance to get off. There didn’t seem to be a lot to see in KK. Went back to our Chinese restaurant for lunch and went back to get more mangoes. Noticed how very windy it was getting so got the 1.30 bus back. Most of the others decided to get back early too. Rang Braveheart and they were on board moving as they had dragged anchor very close to another boat but they said we were ok. Went to the marina office to see if we could come in for the night but were told no room. We enquired about an obviously empty double spot but they said that was for their boat. That double spot remained empty all night. Anyway we went back to our boat. Got Cilantro to collect our paperwork and passports as no way were we coming back in at 4pm. It was still pretty rough when we went in at 6pm. Braveheart decided at the last minute to stay with their boat. If we had seen the storm coming we may have done the same. We were having pre-dinner drinks on Cilantro. The storm didn’t last long and the rain stopped and we went to the dinner held in one of the resorts. The buffet meal was excellent and the cultural entertainment was the best we have seen. Then we went back to the boat. The seas had died down a bit but it was still swelly. I ended up with a black and bleeding thumbnail as Bob surged forward and I got my thumb jammed in the self steering gear at the back. I got an ouch Jessie!!!
Thursday 28 July – Kota Kinabalu to Telek Ambong
Happy Birthday Linda
06°18.489N / 116°18.076E (8m)
After another shocking night we upanchored at 8.15 and headed around the large island of Pulau Gaya thinking to go into Police Bay on the other side. The seas were rough with 1 ½ - 2 ½ m swell but as we got around it was a following sea and everyone knows you don’t look behind in a following sea (that way you don’t know how big the waves are!) and as Police Bay was 20m deep we decided to keep going. A couple of times we thought maybe we shouldn’t have but we made it to Telek Ambong and almost surfed into the bay at 2pm – exhilarating! Went in quite a ways and anchored off a very pretty stilt village beside the American boat. A little later Chez Nous and Baganoff also came in. When we came in we could see soccer goal posts which were well under water and when the boat brought the school kids home they had to paddle to their homes. As the tide dropped the soccer field on hard sand dried out and a game of soccer was played and there were people everywhere (seemed to be all male). They had a mosque which called all to prayer but the soccer game continued. It looked such an interesting village so Baganoff went in. The game finished and everyone just walked away, though some small children kicked the ball around with Baganoff for a while but it didn’t look very friendly, though I suppose it was dinner time. A wonderful calm night.
Miles: 30 TTT: 2,065
Friday 29 July – Telek Ambong
The other three boats left and a fisherman came out trying to sell us a beautiful shell. He was a Filipino and had his small son in the boat. Had no English at all but he wanted us to go to his village. We watched where he went and he went to some houses to the right of the village. We didn’t think it would be a good idea to go in with no other boats around. All the fishermen were friendly and waved. Cilantro, Linger Longer, Ketoro and This Way Up all came in. We had a lovely day in blessed calm reading and just enjoying the beauty of the place and watching another game of soccer through the binoculars.
Sorry they are really bad photos but will give you an idea
Well the journey continues but breaking news is we have booked to fly into Adelaide on 21st September and will spend Christmas at home. Really looking forward to catching up with everyone.
Take care
Calm Seas and no Swell
Dell and Peter
05°43.503N / 115°40.090E (5m)
We left around 8am. Labuan looked really interesting and we cant wait to go back to explore it. Passed a few logs in the water, avoided a couple of ships and headed further up the coast in a reasonable swell. When we pulled the anchor up there was a black plastic bag on it but luckily not on the pointy bit! The wind came up through the day and by the time we reached Pulau Tiga there were white caps everywhere. They call Tiga Survivor Island as that’s where the first Survivor series was made in 2001. We had to anchor around the other side of the island from the resort and it seemed ok. Single Malt were anchored further out and looked a bit exposed. Braveheart came in and anchored where we were. Anyway as Single Malt had suggested to us the swell came around the island and it wasn’t terribly comfortable. We had been hoping to get ashore but the waves were breaking on the beach so we will hope another time to be able to anchor on the resort side of the island.
Miles: 41 TTT: 2,005
Sunday 24 July – Pulau Tiga
05°44.925N / 115°40.770E
We upanchored and went out where Single Malt had been as did Braveheart. It was very calm out there just off the beach of a small island with a white sandspit. There is also another rocky island there which is known as Snake Island as all the sea snakes are supposed to go there to mate. These three islands only popped up out of the ocean in 1897. Chris from Braveheart came over and collected us in his dinghy and we went to Snake Island where there was a sign saying poisonous snakes. Needless to say the crew did not leave the jetty though the skipper walked down the path aways. We did not see any snakes. We then went ashore on the other island and watched the surf breaking off the spit. The waves were coming from three directions and colliding near the shore so it was very interesting. Judy and Chris came over for sundowners and the skipper cooked us all a meal. A pleasant evening.
Miles: 1 TTT: 2,006
Monday 25 July – Pulau Tiga – Kota Kinabalu
05°58.073N / 116°03.158E (13m)
We left at 8.20 and motor sailed in a 1 ½ - 2m swell to Kota Kinabalu and anchored off the marina/resort at 12 noon. We had read such a lot about this marina and had been really looking forward to it. An American boat anchored quite close to us but a little later he went into the marina. When we took Bob in we noticed he was rafted up to another boat and the marina was full. We parked Bob beside Cilantro and they gave us the guided tour. Of course being a pretty fancy resort everything was expensive. Sandra and James had collected our plaque for coming 2nd in the Miri race (although it said 3rd). It was definitely second though as only two of us in our class finished!!! We left to go back out at 5pm and as we were nearing the entrance to the marina a resort tour boat was coming in at speed and straight towards us. He did not slow down and almost seemed to be targeting us! We didn’t know which way to go to get out of his way as every way we went he seemed to go there – of course this was all happening in a matter of seconds. We could see the front of the boat almost seeming to tower in front of us and I screamed and turned my back and honestly thought we were going to be killed. He swerved and slowed a t the last minute. It was a terrifying experience and from that moment the marina didn’t have the same appeal for us. We made it back to the boat very shaken. We had quite a good night with not too much swell.
Miles: 29 TTT: 2,035
Tuesday 26 July – Kota Kinabalu
We went ashore at 9.45 and parked beside Cilantro. We all caught the resort bus into KK which is quite a big city being the capital of Sabah. Six star resorts one side and very poor village the other. The city itself had some large air conditioned shopping malls. We walked to the waterfront and checked out all the markets and a couple of super markets. We then found the Chinese section of town and had a lovely meal and a beer. There seems to be more Muslims in KK than other places we have been in Borneo (not sure if this is so). Malaysia prides itself on its one Malaysia policy which ensures that all citizens are equal but this is probably not really so as we believe the government subsidises the Muslims and also the Muslim schools. Some Chinese told us they have to support their own schools. Anyway just an aside. We went back to the market and bought lovely veggies and heaps of mangoes, pawpaws, and pineapples. Were heading for one of the big shopping complexes but when we got there a siren was going off and it was being evacuated. Caught the 3.30 bus back and went straight back to the boat.
Wednesday 27 July – Kota Kinabulu
Had a dreadful night – we rolled side to side all night and if the rally dinner wasn’t on tonight we would have left. Gave our papers and passports to an agent to check us into Sabah and in and out of KK and went to town. We noticed a few yachts anchored over the side of the town though one did seem to have hit bottom and had assistance to get off. There didn’t seem to be a lot to see in KK. Went back to our Chinese restaurant for lunch and went back to get more mangoes. Noticed how very windy it was getting so got the 1.30 bus back. Most of the others decided to get back early too. Rang Braveheart and they were on board moving as they had dragged anchor very close to another boat but they said we were ok. Went to the marina office to see if we could come in for the night but were told no room. We enquired about an obviously empty double spot but they said that was for their boat. That double spot remained empty all night. Anyway we went back to our boat. Got Cilantro to collect our paperwork and passports as no way were we coming back in at 4pm. It was still pretty rough when we went in at 6pm. Braveheart decided at the last minute to stay with their boat. If we had seen the storm coming we may have done the same. We were having pre-dinner drinks on Cilantro. The storm didn’t last long and the rain stopped and we went to the dinner held in one of the resorts. The buffet meal was excellent and the cultural entertainment was the best we have seen. Then we went back to the boat. The seas had died down a bit but it was still swelly. I ended up with a black and bleeding thumbnail as Bob surged forward and I got my thumb jammed in the self steering gear at the back. I got an ouch Jessie!!!
Thursday 28 July – Kota Kinabalu to Telek Ambong
Happy Birthday Linda
06°18.489N / 116°18.076E (8m)
After another shocking night we upanchored at 8.15 and headed around the large island of Pulau Gaya thinking to go into Police Bay on the other side. The seas were rough with 1 ½ - 2 ½ m swell but as we got around it was a following sea and everyone knows you don’t look behind in a following sea (that way you don’t know how big the waves are!) and as Police Bay was 20m deep we decided to keep going. A couple of times we thought maybe we shouldn’t have but we made it to Telek Ambong and almost surfed into the bay at 2pm – exhilarating! Went in quite a ways and anchored off a very pretty stilt village beside the American boat. A little later Chez Nous and Baganoff also came in. When we came in we could see soccer goal posts which were well under water and when the boat brought the school kids home they had to paddle to their homes. As the tide dropped the soccer field on hard sand dried out and a game of soccer was played and there were people everywhere (seemed to be all male). They had a mosque which called all to prayer but the soccer game continued. It looked such an interesting village so Baganoff went in. The game finished and everyone just walked away, though some small children kicked the ball around with Baganoff for a while but it didn’t look very friendly, though I suppose it was dinner time. A wonderful calm night.
Miles: 30 TTT: 2,065
Friday 29 July – Telek Ambong
The other three boats left and a fisherman came out trying to sell us a beautiful shell. He was a Filipino and had his small son in the boat. Had no English at all but he wanted us to go to his village. We watched where he went and he went to some houses to the right of the village. We didn’t think it would be a good idea to go in with no other boats around. All the fishermen were friendly and waved. Cilantro, Linger Longer, Ketoro and This Way Up all came in. We had a lovely day in blessed calm reading and just enjoying the beauty of the place and watching another game of soccer through the binoculars.
Sorry they are really bad photos but will give you an idea
Well the journey continues but breaking news is we have booked to fly into Adelaide on 21st September and will spend Christmas at home. Really looking forward to catching up with everyone.
Take care
Calm Seas and no Swell
Dell and Peter
Monday, July 25, 2011
WEEK 14: Miri Marina to Labuan Island
Saturday 16 July – Miri Marina
Went to the fancy Everly Hotel to do Harbour Master, Customs and Immigration then went to town to try to find a new bolt. Eventually found one in a dirty little car spare parts shop – it cost $1 and the fellow commented that he doesn’t sell many of them! We had lunch at a restaurant and noted that the Hash House Harriers were in town for their International run. Got back in time for the BIYC race briefing. We have never done this before (we are not exactly built for racing!) and it all sounded terribly confusing. Stopped for a beer on the way back and were going to stay for dinner but the cost of a beer had gone up considerably so we ate on board.
Sunday 17 July – Miri Marina – Race Day!!
Happy Birthday Stuart
There was a real buzz around the marina. We all had our BIYC shirts on looking very smart and the Minister was there and the press. Racers had people up their masts doing last minute things. A couple of the racing teams had team shirts. We all had our photos taken and then it was time to head out. There were actually only about 5 or 6 serious racers and the rest was us cruisers. one cruiser even took off his tender, anchor and chain to make him lighter!!! The exit of heaps of boats from the marina was surprisingly orderly and we all headed out to the start line. We were given co-ordinates over the radio for our coarse but weren’t actually given the first one. Apparently it was in our notes but..... There wasn’t much wind and we had to turn our motor off 4 minutes before the race started. We were hanging out the back trying to stay out of the way and a bit confused which way we were supposed to go. One boat went the wrong way and had to turn around. Anyway we were quite a way behind the startline when the race started (and there were boats behind us!) so it took us about half an hour to get to the start line! (no wind!!!!). We headed for the first big buoy and it seemed we were still hovering around the start line so we started to tack. We had the rudder turned hard to go to port (left) and the boat went to starboard (right)! The current had us. It was so funny!!! Anyway it took about an hour and a bit to get to the first buoy (about half a mile away!) BUT we finally got round it. Several boats gave up at this point and withdrew as they couldn’t quite get around the buoy. The current seemed to take us across the next leg at around 2 knots (we previously did 0 - .9 kn). Single Malt (a cat) was quite a way in front of us and we were the last boat. After we went round they bought the buoy in! We went right out and then tacked back in and did the last leg with a bit of wind and got up to 4.4 knots at one point. We caught up with Single Malt and it was neck and neck but they had the inside running and went round the buoy first which meant we were the last boat to finish. But with handicaps who knows – we are 18 tonne with a fixed prop and Cilantro (who came 4th) is around 6 tonne with a feathered prop. Anyway it took us about 3 1/2 hours (we were allowed 4) to go about 4 miles but we were so proud of ourselves for hanging in and finishing! One of the racing boats went too close to the buoy and caught its line around his keel and he had to dive to get it off! Anyway our reward for all this effort was a free night in the luxury Everly Hotel and a buffet dinner with entertainment and speeches (and free beer). It was a lovely night but they didn’t have the handicaps in and couldn’t say who won. I did think the skipper could have worn better footwear but they were his “good” thongs!
Stop Press – Cilantro (who is now in KK) advised us that after the handicaps were taken into consideration we came SECOND in the race!!!! And yes it appears there were more than two of us left in this race!!!
Monday 18 July – Miri Marina
Went back to the boat around 7.30am preparing to leave. The race is from Miri to Kota Kinnabulu (165 miles). Participants in all the races (including two at KK) get paid about $100 and are guaranteed a place in the marina – which is already pretty full and is part of a 6 star resort. Anyway we were just planning on starting and doing a DNF (did not finish) as we do not want to sail overnight and we want to go to duty free Labuan to get some wine. So we were one of the last boats out of the marina heading towards the start line in perfect timing when our chart plotter started switching itself on and off (like it did in Darwin when it had to be replaced). So we reluctantly had to withdraw and return to the marina. The skipper worked on the chart plotter installing our old one and the crew went to town to get some wine. There’s a man who sells cigarettes in the market and you ask him for wine and he takes you into a little shop about 2m wide out the back and unlocks a door and there is bottled wine and spirits. Then you bargain on the price. Was walking past the seafood restaurant and saw a whole heap of frogs in a big glass fish tank – thought they were fake but on closer inspection found they were all alive and waiting to be cooked!!!! By the time I got back the skipper had fixed our chartplotter – googled the FAQs and pressed one button which reset the whole thing and it was working again. Lost all our tracks and anchorages but its working!! Had drinks with Braveheart – Judy had just arrived back from a week in Darwin.
Tuesday 19 July – Miri Marina to off Brunei coast
Happy Birthday Phil
04°44.626N / 114°33.062#
We finally left the marina (alone!) at 7.45am and motor sailed in very dirty water (hardly any wind) past lots of oil rigs and tugs pulling barges. The water was only muddy on the surface as we left a clean wake behind us. The skipper caught a fish so it was fish for dinner. There was a bit of a swell but at 6pm we pulled into the coast which was actually Brunei. After a while we turned stern on to the swell and we had a comfortable night.
Miles: 56 TTT: 1,910
Wednesday 20 July – Brunei Coast to Labuan
We left at 7.45am and motor sailed again up the coast of Brunei. There were lots of bunds all along the beaches and we couldn’t work out what they were for. We passed a rock wall which goes 1 ½ miles out to sea which rumour has it the Sultan’s brother had built so his kids could windsurf or do water sports. Passed many huge mansions on the hills. Obviously heaps of oil and gas money. As we were coming into Victoria Harbour at Labuan Island our depth sounder stopped working (everything seems to be wearing!) so phoned Single Malt who were anchored and then the depth sounder started working again. The skipper thinks it may have some growth on it but the water is not fit to dive in. It is reasonably clear but full of junk. The anchorage is fouled with plastic bags but we managed to anchor first go between the marine police and water village (on stilts) on one side and the ferry terminal and town on the other. Its a bustling port with heaps of ships and engineering works etc. Quiet night on board.
Miles: 54 TTT: 1,964
Thursday 21 July – Labuan
Called the water taxi which costs 1RM (33c) each and it came immediately and picked us up and dropped us near the ferry terminal. Explored the town – shopping area is nice and compact and checked out all the duty free shops. Took our purchases back to the boat and back to town again. Had a lovely$2 lunch each and noticed Braveheart had come in. We visited the museum and then the marina which is only two years old but being renovated as it was disintegrating. Hopefully they will get it right this time. Met Single Malt and Braveheart for a $2 dinner (plus beer!). and all caught the water taxi back to our boats.
Friday 22 July – Labuan
Took all morning getting our application for boat yacht insurance. Ours actually lapsed on the 18th and we decided not to go with Trident again. We also decided not to go with Edward William who were the cheapest as we didn’t like the stories we had heard about them so went with Pantaenius which was the most expensive but also we feel the most trustworthy. Called the water taxi and we don’t know what happened but it took 2 hours to come!! We did more browsing/shopping and met Braveheart for dinner – Indian – very nice. It has been rainy and overcast all day. Labuan is very friendly and has a nice feel about it. Labuan is where the Japanese surrendered to the 9th Australian Division on 9 September 1945. It is also the place where 3,908 allied WW II soldiers including those who perished during the Death March from Sandakan are interred. So we will look forward to coming back to explore it in more depth.
Take care all. Missing my little Rosie
Dell and Peter
Went to the fancy Everly Hotel to do Harbour Master, Customs and Immigration then went to town to try to find a new bolt. Eventually found one in a dirty little car spare parts shop – it cost $1 and the fellow commented that he doesn’t sell many of them! We had lunch at a restaurant and noted that the Hash House Harriers were in town for their International run. Got back in time for the BIYC race briefing. We have never done this before (we are not exactly built for racing!) and it all sounded terribly confusing. Stopped for a beer on the way back and were going to stay for dinner but the cost of a beer had gone up considerably so we ate on board.
Sunday 17 July – Miri Marina – Race Day!!
Happy Birthday Stuart
There was a real buzz around the marina. We all had our BIYC shirts on looking very smart and the Minister was there and the press. Racers had people up their masts doing last minute things. A couple of the racing teams had team shirts. We all had our photos taken and then it was time to head out. There were actually only about 5 or 6 serious racers and the rest was us cruisers. one cruiser even took off his tender, anchor and chain to make him lighter!!! The exit of heaps of boats from the marina was surprisingly orderly and we all headed out to the start line. We were given co-ordinates over the radio for our coarse but weren’t actually given the first one. Apparently it was in our notes but..... There wasn’t much wind and we had to turn our motor off 4 minutes before the race started. We were hanging out the back trying to stay out of the way and a bit confused which way we were supposed to go. One boat went the wrong way and had to turn around. Anyway we were quite a way behind the startline when the race started (and there were boats behind us!) so it took us about half an hour to get to the start line! (no wind!!!!). We headed for the first big buoy and it seemed we were still hovering around the start line so we started to tack. We had the rudder turned hard to go to port (left) and the boat went to starboard (right)! The current had us. It was so funny!!! Anyway it took about an hour and a bit to get to the first buoy (about half a mile away!) BUT we finally got round it. Several boats gave up at this point and withdrew as they couldn’t quite get around the buoy. The current seemed to take us across the next leg at around 2 knots (we previously did 0 - .9 kn). Single Malt (a cat) was quite a way in front of us and we were the last boat. After we went round they bought the buoy in! We went right out and then tacked back in and did the last leg with a bit of wind and got up to 4.4 knots at one point. We caught up with Single Malt and it was neck and neck but they had the inside running and went round the buoy first which meant we were the last boat to finish. But with handicaps who knows – we are 18 tonne with a fixed prop and Cilantro (who came 4th) is around 6 tonne with a feathered prop. Anyway it took us about 3 1/2 hours (we were allowed 4) to go about 4 miles but we were so proud of ourselves for hanging in and finishing! One of the racing boats went too close to the buoy and caught its line around his keel and he had to dive to get it off! Anyway our reward for all this effort was a free night in the luxury Everly Hotel and a buffet dinner with entertainment and speeches (and free beer). It was a lovely night but they didn’t have the handicaps in and couldn’t say who won. I did think the skipper could have worn better footwear but they were his “good” thongs!
Stop Press – Cilantro (who is now in KK) advised us that after the handicaps were taken into consideration we came SECOND in the race!!!! And yes it appears there were more than two of us left in this race!!!
Monday 18 July – Miri Marina
Went back to the boat around 7.30am preparing to leave. The race is from Miri to Kota Kinnabulu (165 miles). Participants in all the races (including two at KK) get paid about $100 and are guaranteed a place in the marina – which is already pretty full and is part of a 6 star resort. Anyway we were just planning on starting and doing a DNF (did not finish) as we do not want to sail overnight and we want to go to duty free Labuan to get some wine. So we were one of the last boats out of the marina heading towards the start line in perfect timing when our chart plotter started switching itself on and off (like it did in Darwin when it had to be replaced). So we reluctantly had to withdraw and return to the marina. The skipper worked on the chart plotter installing our old one and the crew went to town to get some wine. There’s a man who sells cigarettes in the market and you ask him for wine and he takes you into a little shop about 2m wide out the back and unlocks a door and there is bottled wine and spirits. Then you bargain on the price. Was walking past the seafood restaurant and saw a whole heap of frogs in a big glass fish tank – thought they were fake but on closer inspection found they were all alive and waiting to be cooked!!!! By the time I got back the skipper had fixed our chartplotter – googled the FAQs and pressed one button which reset the whole thing and it was working again. Lost all our tracks and anchorages but its working!! Had drinks with Braveheart – Judy had just arrived back from a week in Darwin.
Tuesday 19 July – Miri Marina to off Brunei coast
Happy Birthday Phil
04°44.626N / 114°33.062#
We finally left the marina (alone!) at 7.45am and motor sailed in very dirty water (hardly any wind) past lots of oil rigs and tugs pulling barges. The water was only muddy on the surface as we left a clean wake behind us. The skipper caught a fish so it was fish for dinner. There was a bit of a swell but at 6pm we pulled into the coast which was actually Brunei. After a while we turned stern on to the swell and we had a comfortable night.
Miles: 56 TTT: 1,910
Wednesday 20 July – Brunei Coast to Labuan
We left at 7.45am and motor sailed again up the coast of Brunei. There were lots of bunds all along the beaches and we couldn’t work out what they were for. We passed a rock wall which goes 1 ½ miles out to sea which rumour has it the Sultan’s brother had built so his kids could windsurf or do water sports. Passed many huge mansions on the hills. Obviously heaps of oil and gas money. As we were coming into Victoria Harbour at Labuan Island our depth sounder stopped working (everything seems to be wearing!) so phoned Single Malt who were anchored and then the depth sounder started working again. The skipper thinks it may have some growth on it but the water is not fit to dive in. It is reasonably clear but full of junk. The anchorage is fouled with plastic bags but we managed to anchor first go between the marine police and water village (on stilts) on one side and the ferry terminal and town on the other. Its a bustling port with heaps of ships and engineering works etc. Quiet night on board.
Miles: 54 TTT: 1,964
Thursday 21 July – Labuan
Called the water taxi which costs 1RM (33c) each and it came immediately and picked us up and dropped us near the ferry terminal. Explored the town – shopping area is nice and compact and checked out all the duty free shops. Took our purchases back to the boat and back to town again. Had a lovely$2 lunch each and noticed Braveheart had come in. We visited the museum and then the marina which is only two years old but being renovated as it was disintegrating. Hopefully they will get it right this time. Met Single Malt and Braveheart for a $2 dinner (plus beer!). and all caught the water taxi back to our boats.
Friday 22 July – Labuan
Took all morning getting our application for boat yacht insurance. Ours actually lapsed on the 18th and we decided not to go with Trident again. We also decided not to go with Edward William who were the cheapest as we didn’t like the stories we had heard about them so went with Pantaenius which was the most expensive but also we feel the most trustworthy. Called the water taxi and we don’t know what happened but it took 2 hours to come!! We did more browsing/shopping and met Braveheart for dinner – Indian – very nice. It has been rainy and overcast all day. Labuan is very friendly and has a nice feel about it. Labuan is where the Japanese surrendered to the 9th Australian Division on 9 September 1945. It is also the place where 3,908 allied WW II soldiers including those who perished during the Death March from Sandakan are interred. So we will look forward to coming back to explore it in more depth.
Take care all. Missing my little Rosie
Dell and Peter
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
WEEK 13: Kuching - Miri Marina, Sarawak, Borneo
Saturday 9 July - Kuching
We got to the Rain Forest Music Festival in time for the first workshop and the crew went to the accordion and squeeze box one. I know that sounds a bit daggy but it was fantastic. Imagine seven totally different kinds of squeezeboxes jamming together! Anyway it was great. The others went to the bagpipes one and didn’t enjoy it as much. We caught the fretted instruments one and the voice combined. We had bought chairs to sit on and bagsed a spot on the hill. A group called Shin from Georgia were on first and to us they were the absolute highlight of the festival. Pacific Curls (NZ) were really good, Latvia ok, Paddy Keenan (Ireland) disappointing, Warsaw Village band – just plain angry!! Dominican Republic and USA bought up the end. We stayed for the start of USA and then went home. Its a very long day when you get there early for the workshops as well. The buses were extremely well organised – no waiting at all and the whole thing was well organised – food stalls, beer, wine etc. It was packed but the crowd were orderly. If they got drunk they just went to sleep!
Sunday 10 July – Kuching
Festivalled out, we gave the last day a miss and went to the Sarawak Museum which was excellent and did some shopping then took a local boat across the river and went to see the fort. There was a bag of skulls hanging in a room in the fort – not sure whose but it used to be a jail. We gave our Rainforest tickets to a bloke there so we hope he went and enjoyed it. Would like to have gone but were feeling tired and the one hour to get there and back again a bit wearing. Had a nice meal with Cilantro and an early night.
Monday 11 July – Kuching to Miri
Retrieved our laundry, had another yummy $2 breakfast (for 2), met Cilantro and took a taxi to the airport. Arrived back in Miri and Simon met us with his car and we were back at the marina around 2ish. A few cruisers walked to the restaurant. Had a good meal with good company.
Tuesday 12 July – Miri Marina
The skipper went to town to get our internet sorted – have gone over to DiGi which seems to work better than Hotlink. Just a boat day and ate on board.
Wednesday 13 July – Miri Marina
Happy fourth birthday Jessie – miss you
Walked to town – an interesting street had shops with foot and hand pedal sewing machines, cottons, buttons and everything you could think of to sew (except dress patterns – seems they don’t use them). We walked for ages exploring the place and went to the market where we bought lots of fruit and veges – they had small pineapples two for 33 cents!!! Bought some interesting bananas – they are a blackish green colour when green and turn red when ripe and have thick skins so keep well. Really nice.
Thursday 14 July
The skipper checked the engine and found the alternator arm bracket had cracked in two and the bolt was stripped. He took the bracket to Tim off Rubicon Star and he was able to weld it together as good as new. Put another bolt in but not that happy with it. We emailed Jim from Booker Marine in Scarborough and he gave a few options about the problem with the oil gauge. The skipper went to town and got genuine Yanmar oil filters and different oil but it made no difference which means that it is the oil pressure sender unit which will have to wait till we come home to get another one (in a few months). The marina is totally full and excitement is growing for the Borneo International Yachting Challenge (BIYC) which starts on Sunday. One of the boats had organised a cocktail party on C arm of the Marina so lots of people made some very interesting concoctions and we all took something to eat. At one stage we all had to move as the dock was about four inches from the water with way too many people standing in the one place!!! Was a really good night.
Friday 15 July – Miri Marina
Went to register for the BIYC and get our racing shirts. The marina is very colourful with flags everywhere and some people have dressed their boats. There are about five serious racers and the rest are us cruisers! The racers have been working on their boats for ages. We went to town with Cilantro to go to the market again. Sasli turned up in the afternoon to tell us about the next leg of the rally and some people had prepared pot luck meals. We just bought some nibblies as we were all a bit tired after the cocktail party last night so didn’t stay long – its a tough life!! Race day is Sunday!!!!
Borneo is certainly an interesting (and busy) place. Take care
Love
Dell and Peter
We got to the Rain Forest Music Festival in time for the first workshop and the crew went to the accordion and squeeze box one. I know that sounds a bit daggy but it was fantastic. Imagine seven totally different kinds of squeezeboxes jamming together! Anyway it was great. The others went to the bagpipes one and didn’t enjoy it as much. We caught the fretted instruments one and the voice combined. We had bought chairs to sit on and bagsed a spot on the hill. A group called Shin from Georgia were on first and to us they were the absolute highlight of the festival. Pacific Curls (NZ) were really good, Latvia ok, Paddy Keenan (Ireland) disappointing, Warsaw Village band – just plain angry!! Dominican Republic and USA bought up the end. We stayed for the start of USA and then went home. Its a very long day when you get there early for the workshops as well. The buses were extremely well organised – no waiting at all and the whole thing was well organised – food stalls, beer, wine etc. It was packed but the crowd were orderly. If they got drunk they just went to sleep!
Sunday 10 July – Kuching
Festivalled out, we gave the last day a miss and went to the Sarawak Museum which was excellent and did some shopping then took a local boat across the river and went to see the fort. There was a bag of skulls hanging in a room in the fort – not sure whose but it used to be a jail. We gave our Rainforest tickets to a bloke there so we hope he went and enjoyed it. Would like to have gone but were feeling tired and the one hour to get there and back again a bit wearing. Had a nice meal with Cilantro and an early night.
Monday 11 July – Kuching to Miri
Retrieved our laundry, had another yummy $2 breakfast (for 2), met Cilantro and took a taxi to the airport. Arrived back in Miri and Simon met us with his car and we were back at the marina around 2ish. A few cruisers walked to the restaurant. Had a good meal with good company.
Tuesday 12 July – Miri Marina
The skipper went to town to get our internet sorted – have gone over to DiGi which seems to work better than Hotlink. Just a boat day and ate on board.
Wednesday 13 July – Miri Marina
Happy fourth birthday Jessie – miss you
Walked to town – an interesting street had shops with foot and hand pedal sewing machines, cottons, buttons and everything you could think of to sew (except dress patterns – seems they don’t use them). We walked for ages exploring the place and went to the market where we bought lots of fruit and veges – they had small pineapples two for 33 cents!!! Bought some interesting bananas – they are a blackish green colour when green and turn red when ripe and have thick skins so keep well. Really nice.
Thursday 14 July
The skipper checked the engine and found the alternator arm bracket had cracked in two and the bolt was stripped. He took the bracket to Tim off Rubicon Star and he was able to weld it together as good as new. Put another bolt in but not that happy with it. We emailed Jim from Booker Marine in Scarborough and he gave a few options about the problem with the oil gauge. The skipper went to town and got genuine Yanmar oil filters and different oil but it made no difference which means that it is the oil pressure sender unit which will have to wait till we come home to get another one (in a few months). The marina is totally full and excitement is growing for the Borneo International Yachting Challenge (BIYC) which starts on Sunday. One of the boats had organised a cocktail party on C arm of the Marina so lots of people made some very interesting concoctions and we all took something to eat. At one stage we all had to move as the dock was about four inches from the water with way too many people standing in the one place!!! Was a really good night.
Friday 15 July – Miri Marina
Went to register for the BIYC and get our racing shirts. The marina is very colourful with flags everywhere and some people have dressed their boats. There are about five serious racers and the rest are us cruisers! The racers have been working on their boats for ages. We went to town with Cilantro to go to the market again. Sasli turned up in the afternoon to tell us about the next leg of the rally and some people had prepared pot luck meals. We just bought some nibblies as we were all a bit tired after the cocktail party last night so didn’t stay long – its a tough life!! Race day is Sunday!!!!
Borneo is certainly an interesting (and busy) place. Take care
Love
Dell and Peter
Thursday, July 14, 2011
WEEK 12: Bintalu to Miri Marina, Sarawak, Borneo
Saturday 2 July – Bintalu to ??
04°11.194N / 113°51.409E
We all upanchored at 6.15 and motor sailed all day. Cilantro caught the first fish (mackerel) sometime in the morning and then the challenge was on! Braveheart caught one, the skipper caught one and stopped fishing but then Braveheart got their second one so the line went back in and the skipper got his second one. Braveheart got a third but it was a bit small and they let it go. We all kept going till 6pm when the frontrunners pulled into the coast and we anchored at 6.15pm. The coast is very pretty here with big sandcliffs. The hills though have all been stepped and we have since found out that it is ready for planting oil palms!
Miles 69 TTT: 1,840
Sunday 3 July - ??? to Miri Marina
04°23.076N / 113°58.347E
Braveheart got an early start and caught a small fish as they went past our boat. We upanchored at 7 and did a slow motor sail to Miri. We have to go into the marina on a high tide. We were calling up on our handheld VHF but getting no reply but we could hear everyone else talking. As we entered the marina we realised our handheld battery was flat so the crew called up on the main VHF. By this time we were in the marina not knowing where to go so someone was rather stressed. But we got in ok with lots of hands to take lines. At 6pm we five boats met on the dock beside Cilantro. Cilantro had their barbeque, Braveheart had their hob smoker, we supplied the fish (delicious marinade) and Cilantro Wavesweeper, Single Malt and Braveheart all brought along delicious salads and we had a great feed and celebration of our arrival. The security guard came down to check what was happening so we gave him some fish too. A really good night.
Miles: 14 TTT: 1,854
Monday 4 July – Miri Marina
It was raining so we waited till 10 then walked to the marina office to check in, raided the bakery and then walked the few kilometres to town. A really interesting placed with lots of interesting little shops. An old Chinese man pulled us up for a chat – people are very friendly. We headed back to the boat and had lots of wind and rain so ate on board.
Tuesday 5 July – Miri Marina to Sibu
We were collected by Simon (a very helpful local “taxi” driver) in his beat up little red car and he delivered us to the bus station where we caught the 8.45 bus to Sibu which is on the Ranjang River. We saw quite a few longhouses though most of them were modern and a few old wooden ones with tin roofs – mostly a bit rusty. There were heaps of oil palms – so much of the jungle/forest has been cleared for oil palms – not good. We had a few stops along the way and arrived in Sibu around 3.30. We caught a local bus to town. The bus station was across the road from the boat terminal so we checked on boats for tomorrow and saw a budget hotel across the way which looked ok, so booked into the River View Hotel. It was 35RM ($12). Hot shower and air con but no top sheet and we didn’t like the look of the blanket so we bought our own little blanket for $2.30. We went for a walk and found the huge market across the road. They had live chooks and ducks all individually wrapped up in newspaper with their heads and tails sticking out for sale. Also live witchety grubs. We found the night market which was very interesting with lots of food. They even had cooked pigs faces!!! We then ate at a little local food place and headed for bed.
“The residents of Sibu are predominantly Foochow Chinese, originating from Southern China led by the Reverend Wong Nai Siong. Rev Wong was a Methodist missionary who sought to find a safe haven for his followers, who were subject to religious persecution in China. Rev Wong petitioned Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak, who gladly offered land in the Lower Rejang area in order to develop Sarawak’s agriculture.”
Wednesday 6 July – Sibu – Kipat – Sibu
We awoke rather early as the aircon was stuck on 16° so it was really really cold. Bought some fruit from the market and decided to catch the 6.15 boat to Kapit – 165km up the river. We were asked if we wanted first or second class so said second but when we got on the boat they said we were in the wrong place – we were in third class so they sent us up to second!! Not too many people on board. All the windows had black stuff stuck on them to keep the sun out so we couldn’t see out. Someone had peeled a couple of holes so we alternated between these windows. When the ticket collector came round we asked if we could sit up top and he said yes. These boats are kind of like a long train carriage in size and its a bit like sitting in a plane. There is a walkway around about 2ft wide (no railing) and that is how you get on and off. The conductor opened the door (bit like a plane) and we stepped out onto the platform - the boat is hooting along – and held onto a head high hand rail and walked along and clambered on to the roof of the boat with all the vegetables and luggage and one other man (a smoker). What we hadn’t bargained on was the cold – it was early morning and hooting along at great speed it was freezing! Good view though! When we came to a couple of villages he blew the horn – which we were sitting underneath. Deafening! At a town called Song they took all the veges and luggage off and we went another hour on the roof till we got to Kapit. Here we pulled in next to another boat and we all walked down the side of our boat and across the next boat to the steps. Kapit again was a most interesting town. We explored the town, went to the museum which they opened specially for us which told all about the different tribes who make up Sarawak. The fort however, was closed and we didn’t manage to get in there. We had read in the paper a couple of days ago about how Pangolins (anteaters) are endangered and protected and how a couple had been released back into the wild. The market had lots of fruit and vegetables all done up very artistically and then there was the wet market. Lots of big river catfish and other things. The usual chickens and then there were two pangolins cut in half!!! Poor little things. Kapit has no roads and can only be reached by boat and everyone comes from up and down river to town for the market. We caught the 1pm boat back to Sibu. It was a different boat and we could see out the windows so remained inside!!! The boat had to avoid a lot of fishermen in their canoes with nets across the river and a bit further down all the tugs towing barges filled with logs – so many logging places. Its a wonder there are any trees left. We got back and checked out the Swan statue, the symbol of Sibu and went up the Chinese pagoda for which they gave us the key to get in. Met Bernie and Doug (Single Malt) who arrived today and had the room next to ours and went out to dinner. – Bought another $2.30 blanket!!!
Thursday 7 July – Sibu to Kuching
Bought the tickets for the boat and went to the market. Walked through the meat section – big mistake!! There were intestines, gizzards, hearts hanging from their bits – really dry wretch stuff!!!! Bought some pastries and fruit for the journey but when we got on the boat people were in our seats and there were at least six seats each side – very squashed. Peter checked the upstairs which had two seats each side so I asked the driver how much they were and he said 45RM same as downstairs so I asked if we could sit up there and he looked at our tickets and said no downstairs. So I ran back up to the ticket lady and asked for upstairs. At first she said no but after a brief conversation she changed our tickets to upstairs. So we sat in comfortable seats with a good view. Though we spent most of our time at the back of the boat on wooden benches (with all the smokers) and had a great view. After seeing all the rubbish, logs etc in the water we were pleased we didn’t take our boats up the river (3 boats did go). There are hundreds of saw mills down each side of the river. It took a couple of hours till we reached the ocean and then we went into the Sarawak river to Kuching. We took a taxi to our hotel and walked around the city. It was nice to see it at night with all the lights.
Friday 8 July – Kuching
We met Cilantro and organised our bus tickets to the Rainforest Music Festival. We left at 1 but didn’t get there till 2.30 but managed to see the end of one of the workshops. They have workshops in which about six musicians all with similar instruments play a little of their own music and then they jam together – most of them have never met each other so it makes the workshops really interesting. The nights entertainment started at 7pm. Its not really what you would imagine rainforest music to be. It started with the sapè which is a local string instrument with the most beautiful sound. Then there was a Malaysian group from Sabah who did their traditional stuff and some upbeat stufft. The three ladies from Canada did their Indian music (the only thing lacking was the war cry). Australia and Italy were just bands really. The Mexican sang and played a pretty mean harp (electric). Then there were the Blue Canyon Boys (USA) bluegrass music and we left as the last act was coming on – another hour back in the bus and got to bed after 1am.
For those interested here is a little history of Sarawak taken directly from a guide book:
“At the beginning of the 19th century, Sarawak was a typical Malay principality under the control of the Sultan of Brunei. Apart from occasional piracy on the coast and headhunting in the interior, Sarawak was peaceful. All of this changed when the Sultan of Brunei appointed a hugely unpopular Governor. The Malays and Bidayuhs of the Sarawak River revolted in 1836 and declared independence. An ugly guerrilla war ensued, which continued until 1939 when James Brooke, a young wealthy Englishman arrived on the scene in his well armed yacht, The Royalist.
Brooke set himself up as a freelance adventurer and the Sultan’s uncle immediately asked him to help put down the rebellion. Brooke readily agreed. The spears and muskets of the rebels were no match for a modern warship, and the conflict soon ended. As a reward, the grateful Sultan made Brooke the Rajah of Sarawak in 1841. Brooke was not content to rule over a small riverside town and set out to pacify his new kingdom, with the help of the British Navy.” There were three Brooke Rajahs and the history is rather interesting so google it.
Anyway its an interesting place. Sorry for the delay in this blog.
Take care all
Love
Dell and Peter
04°11.194N / 113°51.409E
We all upanchored at 6.15 and motor sailed all day. Cilantro caught the first fish (mackerel) sometime in the morning and then the challenge was on! Braveheart caught one, the skipper caught one and stopped fishing but then Braveheart got their second one so the line went back in and the skipper got his second one. Braveheart got a third but it was a bit small and they let it go. We all kept going till 6pm when the frontrunners pulled into the coast and we anchored at 6.15pm. The coast is very pretty here with big sandcliffs. The hills though have all been stepped and we have since found out that it is ready for planting oil palms!
Miles 69 TTT: 1,840
Sunday 3 July - ??? to Miri Marina
04°23.076N / 113°58.347E
Braveheart got an early start and caught a small fish as they went past our boat. We upanchored at 7 and did a slow motor sail to Miri. We have to go into the marina on a high tide. We were calling up on our handheld VHF but getting no reply but we could hear everyone else talking. As we entered the marina we realised our handheld battery was flat so the crew called up on the main VHF. By this time we were in the marina not knowing where to go so someone was rather stressed. But we got in ok with lots of hands to take lines. At 6pm we five boats met on the dock beside Cilantro. Cilantro had their barbeque, Braveheart had their hob smoker, we supplied the fish (delicious marinade) and Cilantro Wavesweeper, Single Malt and Braveheart all brought along delicious salads and we had a great feed and celebration of our arrival. The security guard came down to check what was happening so we gave him some fish too. A really good night.
Miles: 14 TTT: 1,854
Monday 4 July – Miri Marina
It was raining so we waited till 10 then walked to the marina office to check in, raided the bakery and then walked the few kilometres to town. A really interesting placed with lots of interesting little shops. An old Chinese man pulled us up for a chat – people are very friendly. We headed back to the boat and had lots of wind and rain so ate on board.
Tuesday 5 July – Miri Marina to Sibu
We were collected by Simon (a very helpful local “taxi” driver) in his beat up little red car and he delivered us to the bus station where we caught the 8.45 bus to Sibu which is on the Ranjang River. We saw quite a few longhouses though most of them were modern and a few old wooden ones with tin roofs – mostly a bit rusty. There were heaps of oil palms – so much of the jungle/forest has been cleared for oil palms – not good. We had a few stops along the way and arrived in Sibu around 3.30. We caught a local bus to town. The bus station was across the road from the boat terminal so we checked on boats for tomorrow and saw a budget hotel across the way which looked ok, so booked into the River View Hotel. It was 35RM ($12). Hot shower and air con but no top sheet and we didn’t like the look of the blanket so we bought our own little blanket for $2.30. We went for a walk and found the huge market across the road. They had live chooks and ducks all individually wrapped up in newspaper with their heads and tails sticking out for sale. Also live witchety grubs. We found the night market which was very interesting with lots of food. They even had cooked pigs faces!!! We then ate at a little local food place and headed for bed.
“The residents of Sibu are predominantly Foochow Chinese, originating from Southern China led by the Reverend Wong Nai Siong. Rev Wong was a Methodist missionary who sought to find a safe haven for his followers, who were subject to religious persecution in China. Rev Wong petitioned Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak, who gladly offered land in the Lower Rejang area in order to develop Sarawak’s agriculture.”
Wednesday 6 July – Sibu – Kipat – Sibu
We awoke rather early as the aircon was stuck on 16° so it was really really cold. Bought some fruit from the market and decided to catch the 6.15 boat to Kapit – 165km up the river. We were asked if we wanted first or second class so said second but when we got on the boat they said we were in the wrong place – we were in third class so they sent us up to second!! Not too many people on board. All the windows had black stuff stuck on them to keep the sun out so we couldn’t see out. Someone had peeled a couple of holes so we alternated between these windows. When the ticket collector came round we asked if we could sit up top and he said yes. These boats are kind of like a long train carriage in size and its a bit like sitting in a plane. There is a walkway around about 2ft wide (no railing) and that is how you get on and off. The conductor opened the door (bit like a plane) and we stepped out onto the platform - the boat is hooting along – and held onto a head high hand rail and walked along and clambered on to the roof of the boat with all the vegetables and luggage and one other man (a smoker). What we hadn’t bargained on was the cold – it was early morning and hooting along at great speed it was freezing! Good view though! When we came to a couple of villages he blew the horn – which we were sitting underneath. Deafening! At a town called Song they took all the veges and luggage off and we went another hour on the roof till we got to Kapit. Here we pulled in next to another boat and we all walked down the side of our boat and across the next boat to the steps. Kapit again was a most interesting town. We explored the town, went to the museum which they opened specially for us which told all about the different tribes who make up Sarawak. The fort however, was closed and we didn’t manage to get in there. We had read in the paper a couple of days ago about how Pangolins (anteaters) are endangered and protected and how a couple had been released back into the wild. The market had lots of fruit and vegetables all done up very artistically and then there was the wet market. Lots of big river catfish and other things. The usual chickens and then there were two pangolins cut in half!!! Poor little things. Kapit has no roads and can only be reached by boat and everyone comes from up and down river to town for the market. We caught the 1pm boat back to Sibu. It was a different boat and we could see out the windows so remained inside!!! The boat had to avoid a lot of fishermen in their canoes with nets across the river and a bit further down all the tugs towing barges filled with logs – so many logging places. Its a wonder there are any trees left. We got back and checked out the Swan statue, the symbol of Sibu and went up the Chinese pagoda for which they gave us the key to get in. Met Bernie and Doug (Single Malt) who arrived today and had the room next to ours and went out to dinner. – Bought another $2.30 blanket!!!
Thursday 7 July – Sibu to Kuching
Bought the tickets for the boat and went to the market. Walked through the meat section – big mistake!! There were intestines, gizzards, hearts hanging from their bits – really dry wretch stuff!!!! Bought some pastries and fruit for the journey but when we got on the boat people were in our seats and there were at least six seats each side – very squashed. Peter checked the upstairs which had two seats each side so I asked the driver how much they were and he said 45RM same as downstairs so I asked if we could sit up there and he looked at our tickets and said no downstairs. So I ran back up to the ticket lady and asked for upstairs. At first she said no but after a brief conversation she changed our tickets to upstairs. So we sat in comfortable seats with a good view. Though we spent most of our time at the back of the boat on wooden benches (with all the smokers) and had a great view. After seeing all the rubbish, logs etc in the water we were pleased we didn’t take our boats up the river (3 boats did go). There are hundreds of saw mills down each side of the river. It took a couple of hours till we reached the ocean and then we went into the Sarawak river to Kuching. We took a taxi to our hotel and walked around the city. It was nice to see it at night with all the lights.
Friday 8 July – Kuching
We met Cilantro and organised our bus tickets to the Rainforest Music Festival. We left at 1 but didn’t get there till 2.30 but managed to see the end of one of the workshops. They have workshops in which about six musicians all with similar instruments play a little of their own music and then they jam together – most of them have never met each other so it makes the workshops really interesting. The nights entertainment started at 7pm. Its not really what you would imagine rainforest music to be. It started with the sapè which is a local string instrument with the most beautiful sound. Then there was a Malaysian group from Sabah who did their traditional stuff and some upbeat stufft. The three ladies from Canada did their Indian music (the only thing lacking was the war cry). Australia and Italy were just bands really. The Mexican sang and played a pretty mean harp (electric). Then there were the Blue Canyon Boys (USA) bluegrass music and we left as the last act was coming on – another hour back in the bus and got to bed after 1am.
For those interested here is a little history of Sarawak taken directly from a guide book:
“At the beginning of the 19th century, Sarawak was a typical Malay principality under the control of the Sultan of Brunei. Apart from occasional piracy on the coast and headhunting in the interior, Sarawak was peaceful. All of this changed when the Sultan of Brunei appointed a hugely unpopular Governor. The Malays and Bidayuhs of the Sarawak River revolted in 1836 and declared independence. An ugly guerrilla war ensued, which continued until 1939 when James Brooke, a young wealthy Englishman arrived on the scene in his well armed yacht, The Royalist.
Brooke set himself up as a freelance adventurer and the Sultan’s uncle immediately asked him to help put down the rebellion. Brooke readily agreed. The spears and muskets of the rebels were no match for a modern warship, and the conflict soon ended. As a reward, the grateful Sultan made Brooke the Rajah of Sarawak in 1841. Brooke was not content to rule over a small riverside town and set out to pacify his new kingdom, with the help of the British Navy.” There were three Brooke Rajahs and the history is rather interesting so google it.
Anyway its an interesting place. Sorry for the delay in this blog.
Take care all
Love
Dell and Peter
Friday, July 1, 2011
Week 11 - Santubong River to Bintalu
Week 10 photos now on
Sunday 26 June –Santubong River
Had a boat day. The skipper went up the mast again to move the halyard to the other side of the block. He is particularly pleased with his Mastmate purchase which is webbing steps to climb the mast – fits in the mainsail track. It is so much easier than winching him up in the bosun’s chair. He repaired the headsail then we hoisted it and it is now nicely furled where it is supposed to be. Half the fleet left today. Internet still not working
Monday 27 June – Santubong River
Took the diesel jerries to shore. Braveheart has organised for them to be filled. As we went ashore at 8.45am to meet Cilantro it started to rain and bucketed down for about half an hour so we missed the 9am bus. The bus heading out picked us up at 9.45 and we went on a little trip to finish the run and then he headed back towards town. This was quite a pleasant journey and only took an hour - $1.30 each. Took Peter ages to get the internet sorted – eventually bought a new simcard. We walked down to check out the City Inn which is an extremely basic, tired room but clean so booked for 7 – 11th for the Rainforest Festival - $20 a night. Had lunch with Cilantro then caught a taxi to a good supermarket which was having an Australian Festival so lots of good food – even got some chico babies (lollies). Caught a taxi back to the boats. Checked the internet worked and checked on flights.
Tuesday 28 June – Santubong River to Palau Lakei
01°44.665N / 110°29.537E
Happy Anniversary to us
Single Malt left early. Booked flight from Kuching to Miri for the 11th. Price had gone up 50RM ($16) since last night! Pub Bob on the deck and prepared to leave on a rising tide. Naga (a trimaran) was beached nearby as he had some repair work to do from the crossing. Braveheart took four hours to get their anchor up as it was caught on the fish farm anchor. They eventually got it up. Cilantro and Wave Sweeper got up ok and the skipper had to cut the fishing net off our anchor chain but no worries. We left at 11am and followed our track out of the river – went down to 2.3m under the keel. It was overcast and rainy but cleared later in the day. We put the headsail out and motor sailed to Pulau Lakei and anchored in 5.2m at 3.30pm with four others. The skipper cooked crumbed lamb chops and we opened a bottle of red to celebrate our anniversary – 36 years!
Miles: 22 TTT: 1569
Wednesday 29 June – Pulau Lakei toTg Sirik
02°35.913N / 111°15.185E
Happy Birthday Yvette
We all left as soon as it was light enough to see around 6am and put the sails up and had a good sail till 12 noon and then motor sailed. A pleasant day – not too hot for a change. The sea was how it was supposed to be when we did the crossing The skipper even put the staysail up as well so we had three sails going! We arrived at the coast having crossed a gulf and just pulled in close to the shore and anchored at 6.30pm. Nimbus and Wave Sweeper decided to go in the river to anchor but we would have lost a lot of miles to do that. It rained a bit but then the breeze dropped off and the sea settled and we had a comfortable night.
Miles: 69 TTT: 1638
Thursday 30 June – Tg Sirik to near Mukah
02°55.790N / 112°03.375E
It was pouring rain so postponed our start till 6.30 and upanchored in the rain. We motorsailed up around the cape and turned up towards Miri. It turned into a lovely day with not a lot of wind but Braveheart put their spinnaker up and the challenge was on! All the spinnakers came out including Single Malt who was up ahead. They flew for a while but then it was motor against the current. We thought we saw an unmarked rock and then realised our rock was floating – it turned out to be a great big tree truck with old fishing net wrapped around it. Nimbus caught us up during the afternoon and we anchored after everyone else at 6.15pm again just off the coast. A wind came up and it poured rain and we all turned our deck lights on so Wave Sweeper could see us and he came in at 8pm. It was a comfortable night though.
Miles: 66 TTT: 1704
Friday 1 July – Mukah to Bintalu
03°20.579N / 113°07.687E
Happy Birthday Jeremy
We left at 6.15am feeling quite chilly and had a wonderful sail with the three sails up. Best sail we have had in ages. The skipper enjoyed it and the crew went below and made coleslaw and cut out and made a shirt which took away the boredom. We did the washing along the way. Its a pretty busy area with lots of fishing boats towing nets, tugs pulling huge barges piled high with logs, the odd small buoy or plastic bottles tied to lines (pots perhaps) and we can see the oil platforms off to our port side. We are thinking of our nephew Jeremy as not only is it his birthday today, but he used to work on these oil platforms somewhere up here. The wind died around 12.30 and we motored. The skipper is worried about the oil pressure gauge. It goes off the scale when we start the motor but after about 10-15 minutes reverts to where it is supposed to be. Any clues anyone??? We thought we saw a whale 50m off to the starboard but when we looked discovered it was two of those big logs that the barges carry tied together – that could really hurt if you hit it. Had to go past the Port of Bintalu – there are lots of oil/gas pipes there and is a huge no anchoring zone. Anchored off the coast at 6.10pm.
Miles: 67 TTT: 1771
I have been watching the first series of Packed to the Rafters and have got quite hooked!! Looking for the second series – anyone taped it?? Anyway we should be in Miri by Sunday in time to go into the marina on a high tide.
Take care, much love
Dell and Peter
May the wind be always at your back
Sunday 26 June –Santubong River
Had a boat day. The skipper went up the mast again to move the halyard to the other side of the block. He is particularly pleased with his Mastmate purchase which is webbing steps to climb the mast – fits in the mainsail track. It is so much easier than winching him up in the bosun’s chair. He repaired the headsail then we hoisted it and it is now nicely furled where it is supposed to be. Half the fleet left today. Internet still not working
Monday 27 June – Santubong River
Took the diesel jerries to shore. Braveheart has organised for them to be filled. As we went ashore at 8.45am to meet Cilantro it started to rain and bucketed down for about half an hour so we missed the 9am bus. The bus heading out picked us up at 9.45 and we went on a little trip to finish the run and then he headed back towards town. This was quite a pleasant journey and only took an hour - $1.30 each. Took Peter ages to get the internet sorted – eventually bought a new simcard. We walked down to check out the City Inn which is an extremely basic, tired room but clean so booked for 7 – 11th for the Rainforest Festival - $20 a night. Had lunch with Cilantro then caught a taxi to a good supermarket which was having an Australian Festival so lots of good food – even got some chico babies (lollies). Caught a taxi back to the boats. Checked the internet worked and checked on flights.
Tuesday 28 June – Santubong River to Palau Lakei
01°44.665N / 110°29.537E
Happy Anniversary to us
Single Malt left early. Booked flight from Kuching to Miri for the 11th. Price had gone up 50RM ($16) since last night! Pub Bob on the deck and prepared to leave on a rising tide. Naga (a trimaran) was beached nearby as he had some repair work to do from the crossing. Braveheart took four hours to get their anchor up as it was caught on the fish farm anchor. They eventually got it up. Cilantro and Wave Sweeper got up ok and the skipper had to cut the fishing net off our anchor chain but no worries. We left at 11am and followed our track out of the river – went down to 2.3m under the keel. It was overcast and rainy but cleared later in the day. We put the headsail out and motor sailed to Pulau Lakei and anchored in 5.2m at 3.30pm with four others. The skipper cooked crumbed lamb chops and we opened a bottle of red to celebrate our anniversary – 36 years!
Miles: 22 TTT: 1569
Wednesday 29 June – Pulau Lakei toTg Sirik
02°35.913N / 111°15.185E
Happy Birthday Yvette
We all left as soon as it was light enough to see around 6am and put the sails up and had a good sail till 12 noon and then motor sailed. A pleasant day – not too hot for a change. The sea was how it was supposed to be when we did the crossing The skipper even put the staysail up as well so we had three sails going! We arrived at the coast having crossed a gulf and just pulled in close to the shore and anchored at 6.30pm. Nimbus and Wave Sweeper decided to go in the river to anchor but we would have lost a lot of miles to do that. It rained a bit but then the breeze dropped off and the sea settled and we had a comfortable night.
Miles: 69 TTT: 1638
Thursday 30 June – Tg Sirik to near Mukah
02°55.790N / 112°03.375E
It was pouring rain so postponed our start till 6.30 and upanchored in the rain. We motorsailed up around the cape and turned up towards Miri. It turned into a lovely day with not a lot of wind but Braveheart put their spinnaker up and the challenge was on! All the spinnakers came out including Single Malt who was up ahead. They flew for a while but then it was motor against the current. We thought we saw an unmarked rock and then realised our rock was floating – it turned out to be a great big tree truck with old fishing net wrapped around it. Nimbus caught us up during the afternoon and we anchored after everyone else at 6.15pm again just off the coast. A wind came up and it poured rain and we all turned our deck lights on so Wave Sweeper could see us and he came in at 8pm. It was a comfortable night though.
Miles: 66 TTT: 1704
Friday 1 July – Mukah to Bintalu
03°20.579N / 113°07.687E
Happy Birthday Jeremy
We left at 6.15am feeling quite chilly and had a wonderful sail with the three sails up. Best sail we have had in ages. The skipper enjoyed it and the crew went below and made coleslaw and cut out and made a shirt which took away the boredom. We did the washing along the way. Its a pretty busy area with lots of fishing boats towing nets, tugs pulling huge barges piled high with logs, the odd small buoy or plastic bottles tied to lines (pots perhaps) and we can see the oil platforms off to our port side. We are thinking of our nephew Jeremy as not only is it his birthday today, but he used to work on these oil platforms somewhere up here. The wind died around 12.30 and we motored. The skipper is worried about the oil pressure gauge. It goes off the scale when we start the motor but after about 10-15 minutes reverts to where it is supposed to be. Any clues anyone??? We thought we saw a whale 50m off to the starboard but when we looked discovered it was two of those big logs that the barges carry tied together – that could really hurt if you hit it. Had to go past the Port of Bintalu – there are lots of oil/gas pipes there and is a huge no anchoring zone. Anchored off the coast at 6.10pm.
Miles: 67 TTT: 1771
I have been watching the first series of Packed to the Rafters and have got quite hooked!! Looking for the second series – anyone taped it?? Anyway we should be in Miri by Sunday in time to go into the marina on a high tide.
Take care, much love
Dell and Peter
May the wind be always at your back
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
WEEK 10 - Pulau Satang Besar to Santubong River
Tuesday 21 June - Pulau Satang Besar to Santubong River
01°42.920N / 110°19.453E
We had sundowners pn the beach last night. Most of the boats left in the morning to catch the rising tide to get into the Santubong river. We cleaned up and had a lazy day and were the last boat to leave at 3pm to catch the afternoon rising tide. We motored very slowly and went over the shallows at 5pm and up the river with a sharp turn left and we could see all the yachts anchored. We went past the first boat which was Single Malt so we anchored just behind them. Cilantro and Braveheart went right up the other end. We have to anchor to the side of the river to give barges room to negotiate. We are quite close to the dinghy jetty which is privately owned but the owner allows us to use it and walk through his property. A quiet night on board.
Miles:12 TTT: 1547
01°42.920N / 110°19.453E
We had sundowners pn the beach last night. Most of the boats left in the morning to catch the rising tide to get into the Santubong river. We cleaned up and had a lazy day and were the last boat to leave at 3pm to catch the afternoon rising tide. We motored very slowly and went over the shallows at 5pm and up the river with a sharp turn left and we could see all the yachts anchored. We went past the first boat which was Single Malt so we anchored just behind them. Cilantro and Braveheart went right up the other end. We have to anchor to the side of the river to give barges room to negotiate. We are quite close to the dinghy jetty which is privately owned but the owner allows us to use it and walk through his property. A quiet night on board.
Miles:12 TTT: 1547
Wednesday 22 June - Santubong River
We are anchored under the Santubong mountain. Braveheart called up Cilantro to tell them there was a 4m croc between their boats. The skipper who had been in his dinghy with legs dangling over cleaning the side of his boat abandoned the chore!! Our skipper went up the mast to rethread the halyard for the headsail. At 1pm we met Cilanto, Braveheart and Single Malt and walked to the village of Santubong and had lunch at a little local eating place - was a lovely meal. In the evening we all met Sasli (Sail Malaysia) ashore and had a few byo drinks while he advised of our agenda. We then went back to our boat for a lovely feed of fish!
Thursday 23 June - Santubong River
The crew awoke at 4.30 - boat felt funny and thought I could hear anchor chain going over itself but we are anchored in mud. Went to the back bunk to read and looked out the window a couple of times. Could see a buoy outside with flashing lights indicating the end of a fishing net. It was just on daylight when I heard a noise and looked up at the window to see three men there - I thought we were being boarded and let out a scream which frightened the life out of the skipper who awoke to find me not in bed. He flew up on deck and found three fishermen holding their boat off ours whilst trying to retrieve their fishing net which was wrapped around our boat. Think they must have been trying to unravel it for ages. They were very apologetic but couldn't get all the net and ended up cutting it. The problem now is we are hoping it is just wrapped around our anchor chain and not around the prop as obviously we cant dive on it here to clear it because of the crocs!! We wont know till its time to go. We had booked a minibus for 9am for the last four boats to go to the Harbour Master, Immigration and Customs. We would never have found them on our own. We collected some charts which the other boats had ordered, had lunch and were back at the boats by 2.30. At 5pm we all boarded the buses and were taken to the Borneo Convention Centre which is huge and fantastic architecture - a very impressive building - much better than Brisbane's. It is only two years old. We were given a talk by Sarawak Tourism and a short video on the place. Then we ate at the restaurant there - absolute five star dining and they had the most magnificent buffet - amazing food and amazing surrounds. We had fun with the chocolate fountain. After a wonderful evening the buses delivered us back to our boats.
Friday 24 June - Santubong River
We left on the bus at 7am to go to the Orangutang Sanctuary. The feeding time was at 9am. The Sanctuary is on the outskirts of Kuching with a 15 min walk up a road then 5 minutes into the jungle. The alpha male - Richie - came in first. It was lovely to see them but we had been spoilt at Kumai!!! We then headed to a couple of souvenir type shops and then were dropping into Kuching town. Kuching means cat in Malay. It seems to be a very nice very spread out city. The Muslims live on one side of town and the Chinese on the other- pretty big flash houses. We went to the Tourist Bureau, had lunch at a local Chinese eatery, had haircuts and walked along the river and decided to catch a local bus home. We got to the bus station at 4.30pm, the bus came at 5.30 and left at 5.40. We found the wild man of Borneo on the bus! One of the local lads (whose tattoos looked infected) obviously had too much ganga - his eyes were glazed and positively scary. First he threw up all over the backsteps of the bus and then was swaying all over the place and punched the wall. His mates sat him down and all the young girls vacated their seats around him. Suffice to say it was not a pleasant journey. Saw where the not rich people live and there was a lot of rubbish around. We finally got back at 7pm then went to the Chinese restaurant which wasn't impressive.
Saturday 25 June - Santubong River
Met Cilantro ashore at 9.30 and walked 4 - 5 km to the Rainforest Cultural Centre which is a living museum. It is also where the Rainforest Music Festival will be held. It has seven examples of different tribes' housing - longhouses etc and a really good dance theatre which was really entertaining. The fellow with the blow pipe was hilarious and had us in stitches but still managed to convey how deadly the blowpipes are. We had a go of one a bit later and you just give a little puff and the arrow shoots out - amazing. We finished with lunch then walked back getting back around 4pm.
We had originally thought we would stay here for the Rainforest Music Festival but it is two weeks away and we have to be in Miri (300 miles away) by the 15th so we will sail up there and leave the boat in the marina and then come back. Seems a bit silly but otherwise we would fall behind the rally. For those worried about the fishing net around our boat - never fear we are again on the move.
Missing everyone so much.
Fair winds and calm seas
Dell and Peter
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